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Pure Metric

JayL

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If we are going to assemble a custom Metric Tool Set from scratch and start with the sockets first then what sizes and points should we include. I reckon it should be at least in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. The bigger drive sizes can come later. Should we include the impact sockets too or treat this as separate issue.
 
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wrenchr

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Are you going to use a impact??? If so I would say just buy impact sockets, you can use those for both. I prefer 6 pnt, but you will run across 12 pnt bolts.
 

wrenchr

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I would go with 3/8 first as this is your more common drive size, then 1/4 and then 1/2.
 
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JayL

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Yes I will use impact too. I was late when I saw the Grey Pneumatics complete size 1/2 impact kits because I already purchased the 14 piece IR sets both in shallow and deep.

My idea now is to assemble a complete set in chrome up to the biggest size that an import car will use. What sizes range should be best for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. 6 points regular.

How to decide on the additional 12 points and the deep ones.
 

wrenchr

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Well if you buy sets there will be overlap in each drive size. Do you have a budget?
 

Merkava_4

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I like the thread title. :)

10mm-19mm to start with and then go below with 1/4"drive and above with 1/2"drive.

You could also check SO's site a see the sizes they have in their sets. I think the 1/4"drive sets go from 5mm-15mm and the 3/8"drive sets go from 8mm-19mm.
 

wrenchr

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I like the thread title. :)

10mm-19mm to start with and then go below with 1/4"drive and above with 1/2"drive.

You could also check SO's site a see the sizes they have in their sets. I think the 1/4"drive sets go from 5mm-15mm and the 3/8"drive sets go from 8mm-19mm.

Yes that is rite!! The 1/2 set I'm not sure on the range.:headscrat
 

wrenchr

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I am ready to purchase this from Sears. I want to make sure that I am making the right decision. So far 100% of the good tool buying decisions I made were because I posted first to ask for further opinions before going for it.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00936200000P

Please bear with me.

Everything but those ratchet's!! They are only good for a paper weight:bounce:
 
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JayL

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Everything but those ratchet's!! They are only good for a paper weight:bounce:

I already took care of this in advance and got the 4 piece Full Polished Flex Head set from Gearwrench. I hope to add at least 1 SO 3/8 ratchet to this kit too.

Are any other useful socket sizes missing from this Sears package?:beer:
 

wrenchr

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I already took care of this in advance and got the 4 piece Full Polished Flex Head set from Gearwrench. I hope to add at least 1 SO 3/8 ratchet to this kit too.

Are any other useful socket sizes missing from this Sears package?:beer:

Those gearwrench ones will serve you well!!! That sears set should cover most the base's. Add to it as you see a need. :beer:
 

Fedwrench

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I'm not a big fan of 12 point sockets so, you could get by without the 12 points in duplicate sizes with the 6 points. You can pick up the few 12 point sizes needed for 12 point fasteners if needed. Alot of which sizes you'll use depends on what types of vehicles you're working on. Missing from the craftsman set is a 1/4 drive 15mm socket which is handy to have on some GM applications. If you're just starting out, a great deal are those racks of 6 point 3/8 drive metric sockets from 8-19mm that sears often has on sale for $10. As for 1/2 drive sockets, I would skip chrome and just get impact versions. If you're using 1/2 drive, usually the impact socket will fit. I use 15, 18, 19, 21, and 22mm mostly. If you're replacing halfshafts, you'll need the 30-36mm sockets for axle nuts in impact versions.
I would look at 1/4 drive: 5,5.5-15mm. 3/8 drive:8-19mm plus 21 & 22mm,
1/2 Drive: impact sockets 13-27mm (minus20mm), plus 30-36mm deep
 

billymade

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Depending on the car (I have a Volkswagen) you will probably run into TORX (also security style), 12 point (also called TRIPLE SQUARE) and HEX fasteners. Depending how deep you see yourself going (engine rebuilding etc.); HEX sockets tend to be more useful for things such as heads and other heavy torque situations (the kit shown seems to have hex in a flip open handle, no sockets); the craftsman can be ok for light duty but if your doing head work etc. you probably need to look elsewhere for stronger sockets to handle the high torque required (sears sockets tend to have soft steel). Each auto brand have some quirks, unique fasteners and may require special tools for some things. Axle nuts tend to be in the larger sizes for trucks 36MM at the moment seems to be popular (also 30, 32MM); axle sockets tend to be deep and many times have unique design to clear the stub on the axles. What type/brand of cars are you working on? That may help us to tell you other things you may need. Snap-On has tool kits that are setup to repair certain brands; this may be good to look at to see what comes in those sets.
 
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Moose-LandTran

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On VW-Audi Group cars, you won't run into triple square too often, they're used mostly for driveshaft bolts and headbolts, although they are also used on some of their cars for caliper carrier bracket bolts. They also use XZN-16 tamperproof for some transmissions.

You'll need12-point hub nut sockets for european cars if that's what you're working on. 26mm, 30mm, 32mm, 33mm and 36mm are the ones you'll most likely come accross, i believe some cars use 12-point 34mm hub nuts, but i've yet to come across one.

As Billymade said, if you let us know what kind of cars you're working on, we can help better.
 
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JayL

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Quarter Mile races are "in" here where I am. More often that not there will be betting.

We will be using Honda ( Civics ) and Mitsubishi ( Mirages ) hybrid cars thus the pure metric. VTECs & MIVECs. Modified Naturally Aspirated setups. Engine, suspension & body works. We are just starting out to put the shop together now. Most of our hand tools are still in the United States and once completed will be shipped all to us in one time.

We don't want to spend all the money on tools as we also need other important things. None the less we don't want to skimp on it too that it will do more damage than good later.
 

Moose-LandTran

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Quarter Mile races are "in" here where I am. More often that not there will be betting.

Street racing is stupid :Freak:

CIMG2550-crop.jpg


I was lucky enough to walk away.
 
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JayL

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Where the hell you at? :confused:

Manila, Philippines

Have you any suggestion for an SO 3/8 ratchet for my own use. I want to get only one so which should it be? Is there a store to buy it aside from ebay and the the SO website? I want it new as you could just imagine the hussle to send it back if there is a problem. :bounce:
 
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JayL

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JayL

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Just be careful, i've seen some horrific things both on the street and on track/closed roads from people racing.

That said, you're using Hondas, you can't get them fast enough to do anything serious.. :spit:

Thanks Moose. We will be up against guys with basically the same base cars and engine displacement but different approaches to modifications and choice of after market parts.
 
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JayL

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Night life is something you will enjoy here and it's cheap. Drop me a note if ever you happen to pass by. We have a lot of cool chicks during track events and they race too. Some even wrench. Tools though are expensive. Imagine I have to go through all this trouble. If only I could touch and feel these before I buy instead of looking at pictures then it would be much easier. I rely heavily on your opinions.
 

Moose-LandTran

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People often under-estimate the potential gains from reworking the suspension and spend all their money on their enigne. a little bit here and there on the suspension will make a big difference. It's no good having lots of power if your suspension can't put it down to the ground.

as for the sockets, here's what i'd go with:

1/4" Shallow + deep - 4-13mm
3/8" Shallow + deep - 8-19mm (+ Spark plug 5/8", 13/16" & 18mm)
1/2" Shallow + Deep - 10-32mm

Standard 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" ratchets
Flex head 3/8" ratchet
1/2" breaker bar

You usually won't need all the deep 1/2", but if you can get a set with all of them in, it's worth it. As for impacts, i rarely use 3/8" impact and don't own a set or a 3/8" gun. I only have 1/2" impacts and have yet to be caught short.

10-27mm Impacts, Shallow + deep, plus Hub nut sockets (30, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36mm - All Deep)

For an impact gun, an Ingersoll-Rand 2135 is the best you can buy, never heard a bad word about them. strong, reliable, powerful, light etc.. and in the long run, cheap as they never cost you anything other than purchase price and some gun oil.

That's What i'd go with. pretty much the same as the base of what i've got, and rarely do i need anything else. But you will want to consider hex/torx bits, torx sockets etc. i don't know of any Japanese cars that use triple-square bits, but some do use double-hex. (although, that's mostly for Toyota headbolts)

Hope that's of some help,
Moose.
 
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JayL

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Moose,

We use Tein Suspension products and so far we are satisfied. Currently my concern is weight reduction, maybe you can chime in on this. So far for our project civic we have only the carbon fiber hood and trunk. Thinking of other ways to trim more weight down without spending a fortune.

10-27mm Impacts, Shallow + deep, plus Hub nut sockets (30, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36mm - All Deep)
- this is where the Grey Pneumatic Sets will shine as these are mostly complete without skipped sizes. Too bad I already bought the IR socket sets.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJ9K9Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJFYTE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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Moose-LandTran

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Weight reduction is cheap. it just depends if you're using the car solely for racing.

A while ago my friend bought a 200sx for drifting, we wanted to shed some weight so everything that wasn't "needed" came out. rear seats, trim, sound insulation etc.. we stripped it bare. we left some things to make it bearable to look at inside (he was still driving it to work) so the dashboard and door panels/side trim stayed. one big weight saver was cutting out the spare wheel well and replacing it with Tig welded aluminium sheet with bracing. of course, if you get a flat you're screwed.
 
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JayL

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How much weight did you shave cutting the spare wheel well? Was it considerable? Did you just cover and brace it or fabricated an aluminum replacement?

The cars are also used from time to time on the city streets but not as daily drivers.
 

Moose-LandTran

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Not a great deal, few kilos i guess.

My friend cut it out with a plasma cutter, then welded in an x-brace where the well was before, and using the well as a template made a sheet to go over. this was then welded in and the x-brace prevented it flexing an added strength.

One big weight saving was replacing the side windows and rear windscreen with polycarbonate/plexiglass. this isn't cheap but it does work.
 

eschoendorff

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I am ready to purchase this from Sears. I want to make sure that I am making the right decision. So far 100% of the good tool buying decisions I made were because I posted first to ask for further opinions before going for it.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00936200000P

Please bear with me.

That set has a lot of piddly stuff for the $399 price. you could buy a lot more useful tools for $399....


The metric question depends on what you intend to work on. If you are messing round with cars made in the last 20 years, then buy metric. But also realize that any lawn and garden stuff you buy and assemble (for instance) could be either SAE or metric. I just bought a Brinly (made in USA) lawn sweeper from the Home Depot and all of the fasteners are SAE.
 

eschoendorff

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Manila, Philippines

Have you any suggestion for an SO 3/8 ratchet for my own use. I want to get only one so which should it be? Is there a store to buy it aside from ebay and the the SO website? I want it new as you could just imagine the hussle to send it back if there is a problem. :bounce:

Simple... buy an 80 series. Like Merkava stated, and also pay attention to what Moose said. Good advice there. :beer:
 

eschoendorff

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That set has a lot of piddly stuff for the $399 price. you could buy a lot more useful tools for $399....


This is what is keeping me from buying the set. I'm having a hard time convincing myself that its worth it even with 15% off and free shipping. :mad:

I think it was fedwrench that said something about buying the Craftsman plain socket sets when they go on sale for 410-20. that's what I would do, because you're just going to upgrade the rest of the tools eventually anyway. Might be a little harder to do in the Philippines though... dunno how many Sears stores they have over there.

Honestly, with your proximity to Taiwan, I would seriously look at tools from Lea-Way (the Taiwanese manufacture). There is some good stuff coming out of Taiwan right now....
 

Moose-LandTran

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The harness that plugs into my car's computer has hex-head screws that require a 7mm socket. :wtf:

7mm is mostly used on screw-type Hose clamps. they also use 6mm and 8mm hexes, depending on how big the clamp is.

As for overlapping sizes in sets, you need overlapping sizes. Sometimes you need a 3/8" drive 19mm, but when it comes to wheel nuts, suspension bolt and the like, you need a 1/2" drive. I have a lot of overlapping sizes in my socket sets.

Also, for 12-point sockets; i don't recall ever needing a deep 12-point. better just to get a set of shallow 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive sockets.
 
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