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My 195 foot Texas trench experience

Tywash

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Sep 28, 2011
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I wanted to share some thoughts and experiences about my trench dig.

I am putting in 200 amps of service to my building. Oncor has installed a transformer on my existing power pole for free and also provided a 400 amp transocket (340 amp) to power the house and the shop, also for free.

A second meter directly from the pole was possible but Oncor said the second meter would be charged at the corporate rate along with another base meter charge for the second meter per month. The upside is they would wire it all the way.

I decided on the one meter route. I also decided to do it myself.

I contacted about four electricians. The first guy showed up and took measurements, never called back. I called him 3 times and talked to him or his secretary every time. Second guy never even came out. Talked twice. Third guy came out, bid the job, gave me a time table, then backed out of the job. Fourth gentleman, by fall the most professional came after being called once. Measured and bid the job of installing panel, transocket, and trenching 195 feet, installing and reconnecting meter with Oncor line for $5600.00!

It wasn't that is was too outrageous, which it was. It's that I didn't have that kind of money. I was thinking more like $3000.00 if I was unlucky.

I calculated trencher is $180 a day at Home Depot a day, 3" PVC $12 a stick (20), PVC 90 degree elbows $10 (4), one PVC 3" Junction $30 200 ft of AL 4/0-4/0-2/0 $475.00, 2-1/2" weather head for overhead service with, roof flashing, one stick of 10' ridged $100.00 and a 200 AMP 40 Panel $120.00.

So $1185.00 in materials. $100.00 per hour for trenching (8 hours) and $50.00 an hour for wiring (16 hours) for wiring labor you only get $2785.00. Double both of those again and we are finally at $5570.00. So, that's how he got there! $4415 in labor based on his bid. 44 hours @ $100.00 bucks an hour or $200.00 an hour if he finishes in 14 hours. I was at a loss of what to do. So, I did nothing.

So, after a few months my next door neighbor had finished building his shop. He hired an electrician to come and dig his line for him. The electrician had the trench done in less than 8 hours easily! I thought "that didn't look too hard" so I decided I would do mine myself. I went to Home Depot and rented a trencher, brought it home and got it done.

I just finished the 195' feet trench this week. It took a couple of days with my screwups. We have about 12-15 inches of soil with a clay/rock combination after that in Fort Worth where I live. You other folks may have tougher conditions and I feel for everyone of you. But this thing nearly killed me. Rocks oh, how I hate you. The trenching is over and the conduit has been laid and UG inspection passed. Time to pull wire and get the panel and transocket up.

Here are a few of my observations that may help some of you out:

In Fort Worth, Texas all permits are free to the home owner.

Clay will slow the machine down surprisingly more than I would have expected. Still better that rock.

Trenching when the ground is wet is not wise. Rocks stick harder in the dirt when the ground it wet. It sticks more to the trencher chain as well. Also harder to pry out with shovel or rock bar. Pray for a week without rain.

Make sure and have at least 5 gallons of gas in a can waiting for you or you will be going to the gas station.

Toro trenchers ****. Horsepower rating means nothing on a trencher with a undersized hydraulic drive. Get the trencher with the largest hydraulic combined with the largest horsepower rating available to you. 2 HP between models with the exact same hydraulic make a big difference. Less than 20HP in rocky soil and you will hate your life.

I bought a San Angelo Bar (rock bar) and a trenching shovel beforehand. When rocks show up that the trencher can't chew or spit up you will need a rock bar for sure. I broke two rock bars from home depot. The very last rock I had to dig up was the worst. I would guess about 60 pounds!

Measure, Measure, Measure. You will get a visual sense of how deep you are digging by looking at the boom of the trencher going down in the ground. But you will also be tricked by this method based on the angle of the ground as it pitches the trencher fore and aft. Your measurements must be consistent for the PVC to lay flat if you are using it. Remember that it comes in ten foot sections. So this is the distance of consistency that should be checked. Even after measuring 18 inches along multiple sections, I had uneven PVC. It only takes one bump to throw off a whole section of pipe. If you have easy soil then dig 3 inches deeper than required to avoid this. I was never off more than 3 inches anywhere.

Remember whatever depth that is required to be dug is from the finished grade to the top of the conduit. This was my mistake. I read 18" depth and dug an 18" deep trench. So I had to rent the trencher for a second day.

This was the worst day of my life. I felt stupid and defeated. I hope to save you guys from this. My trencher malfunctioned and I had to exchang it for a underpowered Toro. Pure junk to me with the conditions I was in. Jammed on fist size rocks. I developed bronchitis the second day too. This was from allergies and dust I assume. So do wear a mask, even a disposable dust mask.

Still worth it for the money I saved. $4400.00 will buy every fixture, switch, plug and wire to do the whole building. Still have money after that to frame walls. Good luck to all of you
 
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mrb

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the electrician is not making $200 an hour. You didnt factor in his other costs -vehicle and insurance, general liability and workers comp, payroll taxes, the rent for his business location, phones, internet, advertising (how did you find him), tools and equipment, warranty costs, etc. It costs alot to run a contracting business of any type (if you operate in a legitimate fashion), and you have to recover those costs by marking up material and labor. $5800 doesnt seem bad at all if the bid is from a legit contracting business. Maybe $3500 from a trunk slammer with no liability insurance or workers comp.
 

eljefino

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I love it when a plan comes together. Oh and you saved buckets of money.

This would have been a gravy job for any electrician. Doesn't have to drive all over town changing an outlet here and a breaker there for piddly squat. Too bad (for them) that they, apparantly, have all the work they need.
 

Falcon67

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You are always going to save 50% or more DIY unless you get hurt or killed doing it. My shop feed, boxes, breakers, conduit and digging came to under $300 and would be easy $1000~1500 hired out. I spent $13K on the building, hiring it out would have been around $40K+.
So good on ya mate, but don't cuss the pro - they have many more issues to deal with than you do.

>In Fort Worth, Texas all permits are free to the home owner.
Having grown up in Ft. Worth, this is petty unusual. Good for them.
 

Zeke

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the electrician is not making $200 an hour. You didnt factor in his other costs -vehicle and insurance, general liability and workers comp, payroll taxes, the rent for his business location, phones, internet, advertising (how did you find him), tools and equipment, warranty costs, etc. It costs alot to run a contracting business of any type (if you operate in a legitimate fashion), and you have to recover those costs by marking up material and labor. $5800 doesnt seem bad at all if the bid is from a legit contracting business. Maybe $3500 from a trunk slammer with no liability insurance or workers comp.
I always wondered why a skilled carpenter couldn't use that thinking. I've told people that I would base my price on $45/ hr and you would have thought I killed God. So, most of my life after paying for the same expenses as the electrician (except for the building), I have made 20 bucks an hour. If you go back far enough in my 40 years on the job, it was 15, then 10, and all the way back to the beginning, 5 (or less).
 
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Tywash

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the electrician is not making $200 an hour. You didnt factor in his other costs -vehicle and insurance, general liability and workers comp, payroll taxes, the rent for his business location, phones, internet, advertising (how did you find him), tools and equipment, warranty costs, etc. It costs alot to run a contracting business of any type (if you operate in a legitimate fashion), and you have to recover those costs by marking up material and labor. $5800 doesnt seem bad at all if the bid is from a legit contracting business. Maybe $3500 from a trunk slammer with no liability insurance or workers comp.

My quoting of costs wasn't to bash what the electrician was charging. It was to show how much you can save doing it yourself. I wanted to clearly illustrate exactly what is leaving my pocket.

I did not leave the negatives of doing it yourself out either. Everyone has the right to charge whatever they want for a service or product. I just couldn't afford it.

My next door neighbor paid $11,000 for all the electrical work turn key and was happy to do so. He also had the money to do so.

*I did call his price "outrageous", so I was technically bashing. But more out of frustration of lacking funds.
 
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Tywash

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Good luck with voltage drop.

What voltage drop? I sized my wire properly. If you can come in this post and leave a snarky comment then at least explain yourself. You have a calculation that definitively tells you I will have voltage drop? You know all the variables, even the ones not listed that can tell you this?
 

ForceFed70

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Ha, I trenched about 300' for underground irrigation last month. How I wish I had clay. I have very rocky soil all except for about 50' of that. I set it to 18" depth but averaged only 12" with the rocks, etc.

Had the Toro unit. What a POS. Jammed constantly and wanted to dig in circles.

I hurt for a week but got er done!
 
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Tywash

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good luck pulling that wire, there are easer and faster ways than pulling wire that far

The PVC has not been glued in. The City of Fort Worth just wants to see the conduit in the trench for underground inspection. I cut it and set in the trench.

Please feel free to tell me the faster and easier ways of getting that wire that far. :)
 
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Tywash

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Ha, I trenched about 300' for underground irrigation last month. How I wish I had clay. I have very rocky soil all except for about 50' of that. I set it to 18" depth but averaged only 12" with the rocks, etc.

Had the Toro unit. What a POS. Jammed constantly and wanted to dig in circles.

I hurt for a week but got er done!

The Powermatic Boxer is the machine to get when it's in top form. I broke two of them. Not from abuse, just lack of maintenance on Home Depots part. The Toro was the last resort. It only needed to get my 3" inches I carelessly miscalculated

I feel for you. I am still recovering too, from bronchitis as I type and I mean the works. Steroid shots, steroid pills, steroid inhalers and antibiotics. I am only 37 and I don't smoke. I now believe I am too old too trench.
 

mrb

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The PVC has not been glued in. The City of Fort Worth just wants to see the conduit in the trench for underground inspection. I cut it and set in the trench.

Please feel free to tell me the faster and easier ways of getting that wire that far. :)

code requires the conduit be installed then the wire pulled in. You cant lay out the wire and slide the conduit over it in sections.
 

akdiesel

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code requires the conduit be installed then the wire pulled in.

Can you explain as to why this is?
I know other locations will be different. Curious because our local electric company has the vibratory plows and it looks like they are pulling the direct bury cables.
 

Wildstar

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Mold and pollen have been hell here in FW lately. I've trenched in two different yards here. The house I grew up in over by Hulen Mall(actually, the Mall is by the house, we were there 1st) had solid limestone that ranged from 2 inches to 18 inches under the "soil". Lots of black clay. Water is not your friend in that stuff. The other is over on Lake Worth. Nothing but sand for at least 40 feet. You could dig a hole to bury a battleship in about 2 hours...
 

Tscott

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Good job doing it yourself, I have become pretty good at digging trenches in the last few years. I started out using trenchers, but in my area, they are basically a waste of time. Too much sand so the trench doesn't like to stay open. Now all I use are mini excavators, they cost more to rent, but are a ton of fun. In perfect soil conditions they are slower than a trencher, but in tough conditions like you describe, a mini excavator would burn through rocks and clay way fast than a chain trencher. I hope you trenching days are over, but I always seem to find a reason to dig a trench around here.

Also, if you can get a truck with a winch to help pull that wire. Cut you pipe off low and park the winch right over the pipe and pull the cable through and use it to pull your wire in. Your back will thank you.

Tom
 
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Tywash

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code requires the conduit be installed then the wire pulled in. You cant lay out the wire and slide the conduit over it in sections.

I agree with you. I was wrong about the PVC "just having to be in the trench". It has to be glued in for the UG inspection also. It was just so muddy here the inspector didn't want to get it the trench to pull on it. I would have failed the inspection if he had checked. Just another heads up for everyone.
 
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Tywash

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Good job doing it yourself, I have become pretty good at digging trenches in the last few years. I started out using trenchers, but in my area, they are basically a waste of time. Too much sand so the trench doesn't like to stay open. Now all I use are mini excavators, they cost more to rent, but are a ton of fun. In perfect soil conditions they are slower than a trencher, but in tough conditions like you describe, a mini excavator would burn through rocks and clay way fast than a chain trencher.
Tom

Tom, a mini excavator is exactly what I should have used. My trench would have been more uneven and crooked, but I would have been done sooner and probably not sick. The only other trench I need is for plumbing. The plumber will get to do that one for sure. I am retired.
 

rkevins

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code requires the conduit be installed then the wire pulled in. You cant lay out the wire and slide the conduit over it in sections.

Did not know this :dunno:, the power company helped run around 200' by sliding the conduit over the wire some years ago.

can you please post this from the code for future reference
 
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2Big2Ride

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snip... I am putting in 200 amps of service to my building. Oncor has installed a transformer on my existing power pole for free and also provided a 400 amp transocket (340 amp) to power the house and the shop, also for free.

A second meter directly from the pole was possible but Oncor said the second meter would be charged at the corporate rate along with another base meter charge for the second meter per month. The upside is they would wire it all the way. ...snip
Urban legend! Was told the same thing, but could not get anyone to answer why and how much. Finally figured it out. Went with a second meter and it is at the residential rate. This allowed me to get a 200 amp service instead of a 100 amp sub-panel that would have needed about 160 feet of trench. And the sub-panel install would have been several thousand more to install. Needed about 25 feet of trench going with the second meter.
 

Norcal

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Just an FYI, but power companies make their own code up. What's a violation for us isn't a violation for them.

PoCo's do not "make their own code up", they are bound by PUC, Public Utility Commission rules & the NESC, National Electrical Safety Code.
 

rabidsquirrel

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PoCo's do not "make their own code up", they are bound by PUC, Public Utility Commission rules & the NESC, National Electrical Safety Code.

Perhaps "make their own code up" was the wrong wording. What I ment was you cannot use the NEC when talking about PoCo's.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Second meter on the same piece of property.......... varies with the area, the power company, the building inspectors and local codes, lots of variables.

Some places will only allow one meter on a parcel of land. Others don't care. Some will do multiple residential rate meters, some do one residential, and the remainder are commercial rate.

Indeed, some power company people try to make up their own rules...... I had it happen to me. To increase the service to 400 amp was going to be very expensive, new underground feed, new meter and dual disconnects on the house, and worst of all, new 4 wire feed into the house to its panelboard, requiring all the ground and neutrals to be separated. This was an all but impossible task.

Second meter was easy to run and install. I had a PoCo engineer (GA Power) tell me it would be commercial rate. Adamant about it. Was also adamant that the trench for the PoCo feed to the meter had to be 30 inches, and the riser to the meter had to be installed and ready to pull wire into. I had to hand dig across a septic field, and also did the first few feet of trench at the building with a trencher so as to pre-install the riser.

Field crew was livid. Cable only needed to be 24 inches, and how were they to shove that wire thru the riser conduit to the meter when its at the bottom of a 30 inch deep trench thats only 4 inches wide???? They did it, but it wasn't easy.......

Said the engineer was an idiot.

Woman in the PoCo business office who set up the account, when I told her that the engineer had said it would be commercial rate, also said he was an idiot, and set it up at residential after I confirmed it was not a business.

Charles
 

jbberns

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It wasn't that is was too outrageous, which it was.
Thanks.

What voltage drop? I sized my wire properly. If you can come in this post and leave a snarky comment then at least explain yourself. You have a calculation that definitively tells you I will have voltage drop? You know all the variables, even the ones not listed that can tell you this?
DIY. It's cheaper
 

65cayne

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...So $1185.00 in materials. $100.00 per hour for trenching (8 hours) and $50.00 an hour for wiring (16 hours) for wiring labor you only get $2785.00. Double both of those again and we are finally at $5570.00. So, that's how he got there!...

To the OP, I totally understand this. When my house was built, the inspectors required my "unfinished" upstairs to be wired as if it were an occupied living space. Since OK does not allow me to do any electrical work, the electrical contractor did it for me.
I priced everything out, materials and two guys at $30/hr for 8hrs to rough in one 20A circuit and 8-recepticales. My estimate was around $800, the contractor's estimate was around $1800.

So yes, you can save a ton of money by doing it yourself. Just be sure it's done right and that you follow code whether it's inspected or not...

I should add, there is a lot of overhead that contractor's have to bare that the general consumer (especially the "handy" ones) is not aware of. Insurance, office/warehouse, utility bills, auto insurance/repair/purchases, workman's comp, uniforms, tools and tool replacements, GAS, etc. So like you, I am not arguing the cost, just illustrating a point.
 
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b-garage

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I just had the same experience with getting electricity to my shop. I live just south of Fort Worth.

Had to go about 165' and pricing was in the $3800 to $4500 range. Called the CO-OP to see what they could do. They ended up having the best deal. $1850 minus a $500 construction credit made it $1350 and they did all the connections and buried it out to the shop. One added benefit is if something does happen to that line they will come fix it.
 
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Tywash

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Here is a picture of the longest run from the first corner.



This was the very last thing we had to move to finish the trench. It was sitting on the last corner and was keeping the PVC from sitting at the 18" depth. Even breaking it didn't help that much since the pipe was sitting on the length of the stone and not across it.
 

GirlnAgarage

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Tywash, good work getting it done. You did have a lot of rock in your soil. The blood and sweat work is usually the tipping point when DIY vs hiring out. I hope you get better soon. These spring pollens don't seem to want to go away around here.
 

2Big2Ride

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green.bubbly

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Here is my two cents worth and that is about all it is worth. :)

I would install steel elbows instead of pvc. If you ever need to pull wire through the conduit, you won't have to worry about the wire cutting into the pvc elbows. This is required for the line going to my house by my poco.
 

cj7365

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Here is my two cents worth and that is about all it is worth. :)

I would install steel elbows instead of pvc. If you ever need to pull wire through the conduit, you won't have to worry about the wire cutting into the pvc elbows. This is required for the line going to my house by my poco.

its a little late now
 
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Tywash

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We pushed the wire in this morning. I used 3" PVC so wire went in pretty easily. Since I did not glue my pipe together in the beginning we just pulled off the corner ends and pushed the 165' foot length in about 20 minutes. After that we just slid the corner elbows and remaining pieces into place. Since, I did not push the pipe completely together when I was laying it in the trench initially, it came up a few inches short on the last corner when it was glued. So I will have to break out the shovel and cut it in. DIY always has something unexpected.
 

shamrock12

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Did not know this :dunno:, the power company helped run around 200' by sliding the conduit over the wire some years ago.

can you please post this from the code for future reference

I'd like to see that too. This is a standard practice for long runs around here. The purpose of a conduit is to protect the conductors from physical damage. I can't think of a reason why this practice is not allowed.
 

mrb

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Did not know this :dunno:, the power company helped run around 200' by sliding the conduit over the wire some years ago.

can you please post this from the code for future reference

its in section 300 somewhere, look it up. Raceway must be installed as a complete system between pull points before conductors are pulled.

Probably to protect against abrasion or other damage to the conductor.
 

IDASHO

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Another side note... conduit is not always required.

They do make direct-bury conductors. And it is completely legit when installed correctly. I did just this with my shop build.
 

Charles (in GA)

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300.18 Raceway Installations.
(A) Complete Runs. Raceways, other than busways or exposed raceways having hinged or removable covers, shall be installed complete between outlet, junction, or splicing points prior to the installation of conductors. Where required to facilitate the installation of utilization equipment, the raceway shall be permitted to be initially installed without a terminating connection at the equipment. Prewired raceway assemblies shall be permitted only where specifically permitted in this Code for the applicable wiring method.

Exception: Short sections of raceways used to contain conductors or cable assemblies for protection from physical damage shall not be required to be installed complete
between outlet, junction, or splicing points.
 
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