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Best door hanger? - replacing hinge pins

PushnFords

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Mar 15, 2012
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Clay Center, KS
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PushnFords

Active member
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
28
Location
Clay Center, KS
I've used this type at work, it's okay: http://www.eastwood.com/e-z-rest-door-hanger.html

It's meant for use on a floor jack, but it can be made to fit a lift arm, which is nice.

Generally though, I just use a floor jack with a rubber pad.

I saw that type too. Years ago I had an adapter to make a transmission jack out of a floor jack. The problem I had was the different sizes of holes in the floor jacks saddles...with one jack it would be too loose and could flop around. That was my concern with that type of door hanger...being able to keep the top straight and steady...especially with a tall pick up door. Ever had problems with it moving back and forth?
 

pmohr

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Jul 3, 2009
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Maryville, TN
I saw that type too. Years ago I had an adapter to make a transmission jack out of a floor jack. The problem I had was the different sizes of holes in the floor jacks saddles...with one jack it would be too loose and could flop around. That was my concern with that type of door hanger...being able to keep the top straight and steady...especially with a tall pick up door. Ever had problems with it moving back and forth?

IIRC it had an expanding rubber cylinder that fit into the floor jack, you would tighten a nut up top to make it a snug fit so it wouldn't move.
 

darkk

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Dec 24, 2009
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Willimantic, Ct.
I'm an old timer, I used a floor jack and a piece of wood or just balance it on my leg if it's a small door...
 
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PushnFords

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Clay Center, KS
I'm an old timer, I used a floor jack and a piece of wood or just balance it on my leg if it's a small door...

I've been doing that up to now too. Doing it that way for myself isn't too bad but I just opened a shop and I'd like to be able to attach to the door, roll back to weld up the holes, then roll back and hook up. Esp if I can roll back just a touch and not unhook all of the wiring going into the door.
 
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PushnFords

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I ordered the one from Northern tool....I'll probably modify it a little and put hose over the metal pegs...just don't want to spend more than that right now. lol
 
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PushnFords

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Clay Center, KS
Got a chance to use the Northern jack. Nothing impressive but it worked. The top section wouldn't go high enough for the '99 Tahoe 4x4 I was working on so I put the pins going out the top to locate the top of the door. The rubber cushion strips on the bottom of the top piece aren't spaced very well and the pins get caught. The lock screw for the top piece has a plastic head that stripped right away. Oh, and the whole thing flexed quite a bit. But...for the money I'm happy with it. I'll made some modifications eventually but for now it did what it was supposed to do.
 
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PushnFords

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Clay Center, KS
Guess I'm too cheap to get a "door hanger" as I just use my engine crane and a

piece of rope on the hook. Works like a charm. Put some rags on the legs of the

crane, ease the door down and it 3 points.

Uncle Bob

I'd considered doing that. I can't use a rope from the rafters due to how my shop is constructed like a lot of guys do. The engine hoist would work but I wanted something I could hook up the door to, roll it away, then roll it back...while at the same time keeping the correct angle top and bottom so the pins line up. To do that with the hoist I'd have to fabricate rests to put on top of the legs and that fabrication time would have offset the cost of buying the lift. It is for a repair shop so it'll pay for itself if I use it twice. Until then my truck is fixed. lol
 
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