anchors in concrete floor?

[larryroohr]

I want to install anchors in my garage floor and have them be strong and removable. I was thinking something like a threaded insert I could screw bolts into and remove when finished. My shop is only 20'x20' so when not in use I don't want anything sticking up there.

Two reasons. One is my motorcycle stand (holds the front wheel), it slides backwards when I'm trying to drive the bike into it, an anchor behind it would stop this. The other is I'm getting ready to pull the motor on my truck in the garage with my crane, after it's out I'll back the truck out into the driveway which is on an incline. When I'm ready to put the motor back in I'll want to use my hoist as a winch (as in the recent thread) to pull the truck uphill back into the garage without lining up a buddy to help me push it.

Any ideas, recommendations, things to watch out for, best practices?

Thanks everyone.

Larry

 

[blasto9000]

I used threaded inserts to hold my mill and lathe to the floor. The ones I used are Hilti brand, which I picked up at my local Home DePot. Just drop in the anchor, insert a punch and give it a solid whack with a 3 lb sledge. (Hilti has a specially-shaped punch for this, but you could probably use any pin punch. The Hilti punch is cheap enough that you won't care about mushrooming it though.)

Up until discovering the Hiltis I've used Red Heads with the protruding stud, and the Hiltis seem to seat much more firmly. Once in a while I've had a Red Head that felt like it didn't want to tighten up, but I've had 100% solid feelings with the Hiltis.

Having said that, sort of a problem with the Hiltis is that their thread depth is a constraint. So if using bolts, the bolt length will have to be pretty exacting. I recommend using all-thread and cut to length. If you want to fill the hole later, simply unscrew the all-thread. The Hiltis aren't removable, per se, but you can set them lower than the floor surface and fill in the hole later if you wish.

 

[Diverbill45]

If you're going to use the Hilti inserts here's a little trick to use to keep the threads clean, when not in use. Use some of those compressable ear plugs and insert one in each Hilti. This way the next time you're going to use them, all you do is pull out the ear plug and you don't have to be on your hands and knees cleaning out the threads.

 

[BD1]

If you're going to use the Hilti inserts here's a little trick to use to keep the threads clean, when not in use. Use some of those compressable ear plugs and insert one in each Hilti. This way the next time you're going to use them, all you do is pull out the ear plug and you don't have to be on your hands and knees cleaning out the threads.

I have 3/8 threaded shell anchors in slab. I countersink holes and screw in 3/8 flat head screws. I like the ear plug idea.

 

[brownbagg]

any threaded fine thread fastner will last about three days, they are not designed to be reuseable. sand and grit will destroyed them within hours.

 

[alan camby]

I really like epoxy secured anchors. They are much stronger than a mechanical wedge style anchor. I would use something like Mcmaster carr part #93980A150 for 3/8"-16 thread or #93980A170 for 1/2"-13 thread. See mcmaster.com
Make sure you compare the pull out strength of each syle of anchor and you will find nothing beats epoxy anchoring. The only way to anchor stronger is to pour a foundation that has a stud that is "L" shaped buried in the foundation. This is how they install large Jib cranes. Small Jib cranes require epoxy anchoring, most will not allow mechanical wedge anchors. This is all a little off subject, but it helps explain the strength.

 

[neufab]

just use hilti drop in anchors i would say 1/2 inch. we ues them all the time to anchor steam lines and things to walls,floors,celings,also have a 1ton shop jib crane mounted to wall with 8 3/4 drop ins.also all my shop equipment is mounted with 1/2 drop ins.when not in use just use 1/2 allen style set screw.another tip anti-seize the set screws every time you instal them

 

[Mike9940]

Further to what Alan said about epoxy anchors they are the best. Our company makes davit cranes and bases for water and sewage plants and we use Hilti 5/8x7-1/4 in. 316SS anchors. The trick to installing anchors correctly is first to find out what the yield strength of the concrete is, how thick is it and what are the forces that the anchors have to resist. Often contractors and home types fail to clean out the holes with a wire brush and then flush the hole with compressed air. A bicycle pump is a good substitute for a compressor if you are only doing few holes. It is important to open the pores in the concrete so the epoxy can migrate into the pores and bond with the concrete. Done right the anchor should not come out without breaking the concrete around the anchor. In hot weather do one hole at a time. Fill the hole 1/2 full with epoxy and then twist the anchor down into the epoxy. If you do all the holes with epoxy and then go back with the anchors you will find the epoxy has set up and it will be necessary to drill out the epoxy and start again. When drilling holes it is not necessary to go more than 1/16th. over size. The strength is the bond between the threaded rod and the concrete.

Our company likes Hilti because they have done the engineering and provide specs that most people can understand. We don't use ordinary threaded rod as it is not resistant to the corrosive effects of concrete and doesn't carry any specs. Remember if you pay peanuts you get monkeys.

 

[alan camby]

Mike do you use B7 rod, or some kind of special coated rod for the epoxy? Never heard of this. All the crane guys I have seen used just grade 2 zinc rod. If it were me doing the job, at the time, I would like to have used B7.
thanks

To the OP I have seen many mechanical anchors work out of concrete and would not recommend them for critical applications, such as mounting a winch to a floor. I have used hundred of mechanical anchors and for most basic anchoring they are fine. If you are going to have side load, vibrations, or extreme pullout conditions, I think epoxy is the way to go. Also, don't let the installation of them scare you. It is very simple. Buy a epoxy that is designed for concrete anchoring, don't use JB weld or a general epoxy. Read the directions on the back of the epoxy. It is very basic installation.

I am not a Engineer. Just a guy with 12 years of industrial maintenance experience.
Good luck with whatever you do.

 

[kald]

These: http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

The concrete will fail before they pull out. I have used tons of them for pallet racking, battery(industrial) racks and other heavy industrial eqiupment. Make sure they are threaded with the nut just like in the picture before you hammer them in, a glancing blow and damageed threads can a pain to deal with. A hammer drill and a running wet/dry vac with the hose next to the bit make these a 1-2 minute clean install each. Vacum out the the hole as well so you can fully insert the faster.

I never tried to pull(forklift)the smaller 3/8 fastners but I would suspect the concrete would fail before they pulled out as well.

They are permanent though. You have to cut them flush with a cutting torch or grinder if you want to move the equipment.


I wouldn't conisder even consider something like epoxy.

Sorry for the rambling.

Edit: Never mind, just noticed you want removable fastners.

 

[kald]

These: http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

The concrete will fail before they pull out. I have used tons of them for pallet racking, battery(industrial) racks and other heavy industrial eqiupment. Make sure they are threaded with the nut just like in the picture before you hammer them in, a glancing blow and damageed threads can a pain to deal with. A hammer drill and a running wet/dry vac with the hose next to the bit make these a 1-2 minute clean install each. Vacum out the the hole as well so you can fully insert the faster.

I never tried to pull(forklift)the smaller 3/8 fastners but I would suspect the concrete would fail before they pulled out as well.

They are permanent though. You have to cut them flush with a cutting torch or grinder if you want to move the equipment.


I wouldn't conisder even consider something like epoxy.

Sorry for the rambling.