stuck bleeder valve

[edl]

anybody ever tried this?

http://www.brake-force.com/page/885368

or have a bright idea for removing a beeder valve that is siezed (and now rounded) in the caliper? - i have tried hot/cold shocking; kroil soaking; soaking in a rust eater (evaporust), hoping it might eat the rust up the threads - no luck!! - short of a specialty tool of some sort, the only thing left is bannging on it - i was afraid to collapse it - maybe drop a nail in it and then hit the nail head with an air hammer?? - thoughts? - thanks! ED

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I've always had luck with heating the surround area with an oxy-acetylene torch until it glows orange, Then i used vice grips to grip the bleeder and gently open it by tapping the vicegrips with a screwdriver or something. (to "shock" the bleeder and break it loose, but always gently.)

I can't guarantee this will work, but it's worked for me. Best of luck!
-Moose.

 

[Merkava_4]

I this a brass bleeder screw? I hate brass bleeder screws ...

 

[edl]

no - it is steel (70 vette) - so it is probably on the stronger side - but the calipers are original and i would hate to have to drill out a broken valve!!

 

[garfunkle24]

edl

With some bleeder valves you can beat a torx socket of the right size into the body of it and turn it out with that. Because it's inside, the valve can't collapse. Doing this in conjunction with heating and vibrating it might help you

 

[edl]

mlt/gf24 - good suggestions - i had been nervouse to heat the caliper that hot, given it's safety critical role, i feared making the metal brittle (these are nodular iron calipers) - is that a valid concern? - the torx bit is an interesting idea - i could then use an impact wrench and having hammer blows and torque at the same time....

 

[Merkava_4]

no - it is steel (70 vette) - so it is probably on the stronger side - but the calipers are original and i would hate to have to drill out a broken valve!!

I had a vacuum fitting pull out on a carburetor one time; it was one of those press in types for pushing a vacuum hose onto. I decided I'd drill and tap the threads for installing a Weatherhead fitting; it turned out great; all I had to do was make sure I didn't drill into the orifice hole; which I didn't.

 

[fourfeathers]

I actually now have one of those brake bleeder tool set for sale now, if you still need it. It is a thexton center force brake bleeder screw tool and repair kit. PM me if interested.

 

[SteveU]

anybody ever tried this?

http://www.brake-force.com/page/885368

Looked at that page but couldn't find a price on them anywhere. Looks like it might work but want to know how much something costs before ordering

 

[PoorOwner]

Looks like a good tool to have, the concept sounds like it does work
Does anyone know how much it is?

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Does anyone else put anti-seize on brake fitting threads or is that just me?

 

[Elroy]

i was afraid to collapse it......thoughts? - thanks! ED

First off don't think you're alone when it comes to rusted calipers on a vette. You're probably going to need replacements and there are many vendors that specialize in vette brakes. Here is one example:

http://www.cssbinc.com/

Your rust problem will most likely be more than just the bleed screw. Get it apart and most likely you'll find rusted bores and pistons.

Back to your problem and what Elroy would do. First off get a drill bit that just fits the bleed hole and drill out the rust. Work your way up until you start cutting clean metal all the way to the bottom of the screw. Put some kroil or other rust penetrate down the hole and heat the bleed screw with a torch. You don't need to get it red hot. Just get it hot enough to "boil" the "oil". Repeat this "oil and boil" deal three or four times. Then take the drill bit you used, remove it from the drill and stick it in the bleed screw **** end first. This will act as a support so you don't collapse the screw wall. Heat the screw up again this time just a little hotter and take some vise grips to it. Pinch the hell out of it and work the screw both ways to try and break the rust seal. If you strip or break off the bleeder don't waste any more time with it. Buy new calipers.

 

[Elroy]

I this a brass bleeder screw? I hate brass bleeder screws ...

Can't say Elroy has ever seen brass bleed screws on a vehicle. Stainless bleed screws would be nice. Haven't seen them either

 

[Fedwrench]

http://www.toolweb.com/AEStools/sto...oken=68057969&do=detail&partno=VAC12-080-1000

Here's a different kit with a price.

In addition to this kit and the Thexton kit mentioned, Phoenix bleeders has a kit too.

 

[Junkman]

Don't even mess with it. Send it to Sierra Specialty Automotive and have them re-sleeve the caliper. If you don't mess with the bleeder screw, they will remove it as part of the rebuild service. If you screw it up, and they have to spend a lot of time to remove it, they will charge you extra. I spoke to them about this when I had a similar problem, but I had already screwed up the bleeder. Let them do it, because they are experts at dealing with these types of problems. Keep in mind that if you have to buy a correct date coded caliper, because you messed this one up, it is going to cost a lot more. Sometimes it is better to pay the experts than it is to try and fail on your own. These people came highly recommended to me by Packard, Rolls Royce, and Corvette collectors that I know. I figured that if 3 of the 4 people that I asked, recommended the same guy, that the work must be good.

 

[billymade]

Man, just spent quite a bit of time looking at their work, wow if you have a vintage auto they look like they do amazing work! I never thought of something like that being re-sleeved but if you had something rare it would make perfect sense and be more durable with brass! I always admire shops that can restore old/obsolete things back to new or in this case better then new!

 

[KenS]

Haven't seen them either

Hey boys, Elroy actually slipped from the third person back into the first person!

[Classic third-person Elroy would have read: "Hasn't seen them either"]

Kinda makes my day.

 

[Nealcrenshaw]

You'll do better by just replacing the caliper. Trust me on this,It'll save you alot of time.

 

[eschoendorff]

Looks like a good tool to have, the concept sounds like it does work
Does anyone know how much it is?

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. If I am understanding this correctly, the big difference is that this tool supports the bleeder screw internally. It seems that if you simply find a way to support the bleeder screw internally (a pin made out of a nail or something), you should be able to do teh work of this tool at a cost of about $.05.


Heat and PB blaster have always been my friend though....

 

[Junkman]

You'll do better by just replacing the caliper. Trust me on this,It'll save you alot of time.

When you own a 1970 Vette, a lot of its basic value is ******* in having all its original parts installed. The more original the car, the more value is has when you sell it to another Vette collector. Seems that almost every part on a Vette is either unique to the car and is date coded. In some instances, replacements of proper date coded parts isn't an option.

 

[fourfeathers]

Selling the Thexton kit in the classifieds now...

 

[palaina59]

I found this while shopping for a brake flush machine.

Brake Free - Phoenix Systems

I never used one myself, I can't tell you if it works good or not.