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Proper Way to Mount a Vise

Brian.Evans

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I got my nice heavy wood workbench done and would like to mount the 5" Wilton I just restored on it. I have heard that the proper way is to mount the vise to a piece of plate steel, then screw the steel to the bench. I've been told that the vise will be more stable that way. The cost is negligible, as I already have the steel plate piece. Opinions and personal experiences?

Also, how close to the edge should the base be? It seems like it would work well right up against the edge.

Thanks all!
 
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bigcaddy

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It all depends what you are starting with. I've mounted a number of them to solid steel, wood or on free standing post mounts.

If you have the steel plate, put it under the table and use it like a giant washer. That would give you a big increase in holding power while being used.

As far as the jaws in relation to the edge, the stationary jaw face should just be past the edge of the table. That way if you need to work on something long and have it clamped vertically in the vise, it will clear you workbench instead of bottoming out on it.
 

FrostBite

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I have my 4" Wilton bolted directly to the table with the stationary jaw overhanging the dge of the table by 1/2". This allows me to clamp longer pieces so they hang below the table top.

Edit: Beat while typing. Curse this touch screen keyboard.
 

back2class

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Depends what you are doing. a 5" wilton bullet vise is going to be best on a steel post embeded in concrete....completely a waste of a heavy industrial vise mounted to a wood bench. But if you don't intend to use it to its potential (that would tear the bench to splinters) then a few big washers under the wood top is fine. All really depends on what you have. No point in steel plates if the bench is only 100 pounds as the thing would fly across the shop before you pulled a vise's bolts through the plywood top.
 

andywander

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Assuming it is a swivel vise, mount it on the corner of the bench so that long work will be able to hang down past either the front or the side of the bench.
 
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Brian.Evans

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It's not a bullet vise. I guess I don't really know what it is, other than a Wilton.

Before:
IMAGE_1000001117.JPG


After:
IMAGE_1000001192.JPG


Also, this vise will most likely never be used to it's "full" potential, but I want to be able to beat on it if I have to.
 

kc-steve

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First, throw out the wood work bench and start over with steel. :)

Steve
 

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back2class

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No need for some fancy base plate. Just some big washers and maybe an extra layer of wood under the bench surface where the vise mounts.
 

byoungblood

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Mine is mounted on 5/8" plywood, reinforced with 2x4s that I ran underneath the area where I was going to mount the vise. Drilled holes all the way through the top and 2x4s and ran my bolts with washers through that. So far it, nor the workbench which is tied into the wall studs, has budged.
 

machine_punk

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I suppose everyone's definition of 'nice, heavy wood workbench' is a little different (pictures would help).

Here's what worked for me...
View media item 18634
You need to look closely at the mounting holes on your vise. They are somewhat non-symmetrical. There is only one way to mount some of the Wiltons, so that you can get the opening of the jaws out beyond the edge of the bench...set your vice on your bench, until you see which configuration works for you (don't drill holes, then figure out you put them in the wrong place). I used 1/2" socket head cap screws to mount my vice. The washers on the bottom are fender washers (make sure you calculate their diameter into wherever you drill the holes). For the top washers, even regular 1/2" washers were to big in diameter, so I used washers for 5/16" bolts and just drilled the hole out to fit the 1/2" bolts. The bolts were just a tad too short (and I didn't want to make the 60 mile trip to the place I knew I could get them longer), so I routed out a fraction of an inch around the bottom holes, for the washers to fit...
View media item 18635
Underneath the top, I made a slot in the framework to hold the mounting hardware. What you don't see in this picture, is that I used a circular saw like a router to hog out some more material in this slot...
View media item 18633
This bench isn't going anywhere, no matter how hard you beat on the vise...it is held down with a 1200-pound sheet metal machine now.

M_P
 

Outlawmws

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As long as the bench is sturdy, direct to the wood and big washers underneath are fine, even for a bigger vise than you have.

Things to stay away from": particle or chipboard, unless it has been reinforced.

As mentioned get the static jaw a bit past the edge of the bench and if mounted near the corner and it will accommodate it over the side as well when swiveled in that direction.

My bench is 2X4's glued adn screwed together vertically for a 3-1/2" base top and a kitchen counter on top of that for a clean work surface.. the vise is on one corner and can be turned to the side, but I rarely do.

The bench itself if lagged to every wall stud it is against, so it doesn't move around no matter what I do. (I have mounded my tubing bender into the vise and used it, as well as a tubing notcher...) If you build a top like mine, use one 2X6 or 8 for the piece nearest the wall. it make anchoring it much easier.

If you use plywood use two layers at least 3/4" thick, (but I personally don't like this type of top for general mechanical use)
 

lilredex

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Very nice restoration!

Don't squeeze things too hard or do any pounding on it, that welded front jaw is your very weak link....... Keep it for the easy stuff.
 
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Brian.Evans

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Very nice restoration!

Don't squeeze things too hard or do any pounding on it, that welded front jaw is your very weak link....... Keep it for the easy stuff.

The front jaw wasn't welded. It looked like someone tried to very poorly braze it. I was able to pry it off without much difficulty. When I re-did it, I heated up the jaw while it was in a press, heat then pressed, more heat, more pressure, until it was square again. Then I left it in the press until it was cooled down all the way. I beat on it and put a bunch of pressure on it before I painted. I don't think it's moving.

I will try to post pictures of the bench. However, I'm considering putting it on another bench I have. It's a bit heavier. As for steel, I'm working on a welding table, but that will have a Littlestown Foundry 4" vise on it. :)
 
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Brian.Evans

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Ok, here's the bench.

Overall view:
IMAGE_1000001204.jpg

Close up of the mounting location:
IMAGE_1000001207.jpg

Three of my five wonderful kids posing on the bench. L-R; Emily-8, Caleb-17 mos, and Grace-9:
IMAGE_1000001200.jpg

I still have to tie the front and rear legs together, but I ran out of screws. This bench was made from almost 100% found and salvage materials. Over half the screws came from a box I found alongside the road. The wood is from cast offs of construction around the area. I bought 1 lb of screws, and lack about 20 screws from being done. I will have less than $35 in the vise and the bench all said and done! ($25 of that was the vise) I like scavenging. It embarrases the wife to know end, but when I can build something like this for almost zero money, it evens out.

I will do a build thread on my welding table, it will cost me less than $50, and really closer to $35. :D
 
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Brian.Evans

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Oh, btw, the legs came from my neighbor's burn pile. The one on the front of the vise area was a bit short, so I had to put a scrap piece under it. Dang free stuff, not cut to my dimensions!!
 

Outlawmws

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My comments on your bench:

Unless you are going to anchor it to the wall, its is a bit narrow front to back for hard work on the vise. (Easy to pull/push over.)

I would also add some plywood sides and a back to act as a sheer member so it eliminates structural twist. even 1/4" will do the trick on small areas like a bench. This would also be a good time to make a lower shelf, and get some storage out of the deal.

It's weakest link as far as vise mounting is the vise will only really attach to one 2x; pretty easy to pull loose. If you topped it with some heavy ply, it will spread the load.

How do you plan to mount the vise? is there clearance for through bolts? (I hate Lag bolts for vise mounting, or any place a lot of strain will be concentrated)
 

buening

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I see no need for a plate under the vise given that you used 2x for your top. With enough force on the vise it could crush into the 2x a bit, but you'd have to be really forcing it with a lever for that to happen. Definitely use enough screws on the 2x top to prevent pullout.

Regarding it tipping over, if this is a concern and you don't mind it being in a fixed location, you could always get some Simpson post base brackets and anchor it to the floor. You wouldn't need to anchor every post, just the outer corners. If the Simpson brackets are too pricey for you, a simple steel plate for the base plate and a couple angles to tie the legs to the base plate would suffice. Otherwise, screw it to a wall!
 

tribbles

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Las Cruces, NM
Here's how I mounted mine:

2012-05-10220126.jpg


I cut away the 2" overhang around the vise so I could get it as close to the table edge as I could. The two outside holes are anchored with 6" carriage bolts that pass through the 2x4s and the table surface (two plies of 3/4" plywood). The inside hole (not visible here) is anchored with a 2.5" carriage bolt that passes through just the table surface. This puts the vise directly over the sistered 2x4s I used for the legs.

The table is also lag bolted to the wall studs. It's about as solid as mounting on a wood table is going to get.
 
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Brian.Evans

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Here's how I was going to mount the vise, but now that I see someone else that cut the overhang away, I will have to think on it. My dad's vise has never swiveled and I don't think there was ever a time when he needed it to, and he has farmed his whole life.
IMAGE_1000001208.JPG


I think I'm going to put the bench here. I can anchor it to the poles and the rear legs to the lower stretcher.
IMAGE_1000001211.JPG


I was planning on cutting that little long section on the right off, but it fits my 9" bandsaw perfectly, so it may stay.
 
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Outlawmws

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Are you right or left handed? And if right, is it too late to move the long boards the other way, and do a right hand mount? I find it easier to have a vise on the right corner, since I'm a righty...
 

Outlawmws

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Also, how tall are you? will the vise handle/jaws be at about elbow height? This is for the best leverage for working at a vise.
 

toomanytoyzz

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Wood will be fine. A steel table is ideal for welding, but you don't HAVE to use steel to build a durable table. My father has owned a bodyshop for 38 years and though the main workbench he has is framed using 4"x1/4" angle iron the top is 1/4" plywood. Him and his partner built it the first month he bought the shop and it's remained in the same spot since. He also has a goliath Rock Iasland vise on it which weighs over 100lbs. Other than the heavy duty carriage bolts needinfg a re-tighten that thing has remained untouched.

Here's a pic of my welding table I just fabbed up. Got the top for $60 a few weeks ago. I also just picked up a Wilton 8400 series bullet for $60 at a flea market in my area on Sunday. I took it apart to sandblast it, but the local hardware store was out of sand. I have several bags of Black Beauty in my wife's Tacoma. Just forgot to get them out before I left to head to the shop. Oh well, it can wait.
 

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Brian.Evans

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I'm actually left handed, as are my oldest son, my oldest daughter, and it's starting to look like my youngest son. :D

The vise jaws are right even with my elbow. The bench was built to be fit just for me, and I'm about 5' 10".
 
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Brian.Evans

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Wood will be fine. A steel table is ideal for welding, but you don't HAVE to use steel to build a durable table. My father has owned a bodyshop for 38 years and though the main workbench he has is framed using 4"x1/4" angle iron the top is 1/4" plywood. Him and his partner built it the first month he bought the shop and it's remained in the same spot since. He also has a goliath Rock Iasland vise on it which weighs over 100lbs. Other than the heavy duty carriage bolts needinfg a re-tighten that thing has remained untouched.

Here's a pic of my welding table I just fabbed up. Got the top for $60 a few weeks ago. I also just picked up a Wilton 8400 series bullet for $60 at a flea market in my area on Sunday. I took it apart to sandblast it, but the local hardware store was out of sand. I have several bags of Black Beauty in my wife's Tacoma. Just forgot to get them out before I left to head to the shop. Oh well, it can wait.

Where did you find that top! I felt lucky to get my 64"x32" piece of new 3/16" plate for free. That big ol' piece would be awesome!

My dad/grandpa's main bench is close the same age and is 2x6 topped. It has seen a LOT of work over the years, but has never had the top boards replaced. I doubt I'll use my bench for a third of what his has been used for.
 
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toomanytoyzz

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Where did you find that top! I felt lucky to get my 64"x32" piece of new 3/16" plate for free. That big ol' piece would be awesome!

Good 'ole craigslist. I like to call CL the place where you buy low while ebay is where you sell high to cover the BS high fees paypal and ebay charge. :lol_hitti
 

autopts

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I got my nice heavy wood workbench done and would like to mount the 5" Wilton I just restored on it. I have heard that the proper way is to mount the vise to a piece of plate steel, then screw the steel to the bench. I've been told that the vise will be more stable that way. The cost is negligible, as I already have the steel plate piece. Opinions and personal experiences?

Also, how close to the edge should the base be? It seems like it would work well right up against the edge.

Thanks all!

Very nice restoration Brian, are you talking about the Tradesman 45 lb. 1750 5" bullet or the 98 lb 500S? With the latter, you really have to bolt the bench to the wall and that big one will take up 16" of bench after you mount it. We want to see the results please.
 
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Brian.Evans

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I believe this an early 70s 645. I will for sure post pictures when I get it mounted. I still need the bolt for the center swivel piece.
 

autopts

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OMG! Its that blue 645? Brian? Is that the vise your asking how to mount?
 

mvptrukin

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You need a little stool so your youngest can be your official vise operator, under adult supervision! Nice vise Resto and good looking bench.Autopts is the official Wilton fan, he probably had withdrawal symptoms seeing that fine job.
 
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Brian.Evans

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Slightly off topic, but he already LOVES being outside with me. He will grab my 2 oz ball pein or a screwdriver or a pair of channel locks and go to town walking all over the shop "fixing" things. I don't like him playing with the screwdrivers though, they make me nervous. I'm going to get him a mini anvil so he can "forge" with daddy. :)

He already runs my drill press. A mini drill press, of course.
IMAGE_1000001174.JPG
 

Packard V8

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First, throw out the wood work bench and start over with steel. :) Steve
attachment.php
JMHO, but not if it's steel on casters. My preference for serious vise work would always be on a bench constructed of much wood, solidly mounted to the floor and wall. Your results may vary.

The best workbench I have has a section of Glu-Lam beam as the top and doubled 4"x4" legs, all tied to the wall studs with 2"x4" horizontals.

If it is a large vise for really heavy work, I remove the swivel base and run the appropriate size bolt down through the center hole as well as the external mounting ear holes. The result is a much more solid platform.

jack vines
 
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Brian.Evans

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Jack, you bring up a good point. I think I'm going to attach my bench at bit wall and floor so it never moves.

Jeff, the kiddo hates anything on his head. I can get him to keep a hat on for a bit, but he doesn't quite want to leave glasses on. Maybe a few more months. I plan on making him a little shop apron and having his own set up with safety gear and such in a year or so when he's a bit bigger and out with me when I'm doing heavy work. Right now I have to leave him in the house if I'm doing dangerous projects. He's my buddy though, that's for sure! :D :D
 

HoosierBuddy

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I think there is some very good ad-vise here!

One thing that hasn't been discussed too much is hardware. After going to all that trouble to restore your vise, don't cheap out on your mounting hardware. Get some nice Grade 8 or better bolts, nuts and washers.

Yeah...those Grade 2 (or worse) in the main bin at the hardware store would probably work...but better hardware jazzes up your vise a bit.

I had some Delta 325 flange bolts (kind of similar to Grade 8) and used them along with some heavy nuts. BTW...My workbench top is 1 1/2" hard maple. I'd disagree a bit with some of the previous comments about needing a metal work bench to mount it to. I'm a big guy and I can't apply enough torque with the vise handle to cause any issues with this setup. And, after all the work of restoring the vise, I don't think I want to use a cheater on it anyway.

Phil

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Brian.Evans

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Phil, that is really sharp! I have no intention of using anything less than grade 8 on my vise.

Did you polish the handle and the lockdown, or how was that refurbed?
 

Outlawmws

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Jeff, the kiddo hates anything on his head. I can get him to keep a hat on for a bit, but he doesn't quite want to leave glasses on. Maybe a few more months. I plan on making him a little shop apron and having his own set up with safety gear and such in a year or so when he's a bit bigger and out with me when I'm doing heavy work. Right now I have to leave him in the house if I'm doing dangerous projects. He's my buddy though, that's for sure! :D :D

Make sure you wear them and tell him how cool it is to be able to wear them. I started my kids EARLY on Safety glasses and hearing protection (they keep a pair of my ear muff sets with the house vacuum...)

No replacing your eyes or your ears...
 

HoosierBuddy

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Phil, that is really sharp! I have no intention of using anything less than grade 8 on my vise.

Did you polish the handle and the lockdown, or how was that refurbed?

This old Morgan has 2 hold downs, one of which was missing. I made a new one out of stainless and polished it. The original one on the other side polished up nicely.

Phil
 
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