HD Truck Mechanics

[sdguy55]

This is a question for anyone who works around semi's or hell even if you dont and you could possibly solve an issue for me. Most of the trucks we have are freightliners with CAT motors.
My issue is everytime i have to fill coolant in one of these the overflow tank is on top of the radiator. So i have to get a jug full of coolant (think a jug from a bulk tank not one you buy from a store) climb up on a tire, which may or may not be slick from said coolant spilling out of said jug and then try to pour the coolant into the awkward angle of the overflow tank.
My thinking is there's gotta be a better way. The first thought that came to mind was getting a identical radiator cap and drilling out the center and putting a barbed fitting on it stick a hose on that end and then find a way to siphon it out of a jug that would be on the ground. Just for people who dont work around trucks, yes you do have to climb up on the tire to get at this. Theres just no other way. Please opinions and suggestions of all kinds.

 

[vfr-rider]

Yeah, You pretty much got it. If you think about it, the surge tank HAS to be that high so that it is above the top rad hose. I would get a filler jug, one with a long spout high on the top of the jug would help.

 

[Garage5.9]

jugs like these ?

why not hook up a small 12v pump from the bulk tank. Im assuming its a 55 gallon drum and with a long hose put a valve on the end like the ones you use to fill up water at gas stations etc. Just simply hook up to the truck and your good to go

 

[sdguy55]

Using that jug would take forever to fill a truck. Ours hold on average 13 gallons. And our bulk tank is actually like 300 gallons. So its stationary.

 

[Garage5.9]

Using that jug would take forever to fill a truck. Ours hold on average 13 gallons. And our bulk tank is actually like 300 gallons. So its stationary.

I know these trucks hold a lot but i was just wondering if the jug you are using is LIKE this in style not size , how about building something to hold a 5 gallon bucket higher than the reservoir and gravity feed it ? some thing like this

 

[battlegraduate09]

International air lift. Easiest way iv seen. Hook air to it, pull vacuum on cooling system, full pan full of however much coolant you need, block off air when desired vacuum is reached, open the other side and will fill cooling system full with no air in it so you fill everything properly

 

[Kurn]

I have the same problem,and am thinking of using a hand pump for a 5 gallon pail.Comes with a cover that has thumbscrews to secure it.Shouldn't be too expensive.On late model Western Stars,the surge tank is on the firewall,and the cap is at a 45° angle,and almost impossible to fill w/o a pump of some sort.

 

[battlegraduate09]

do people read anything i post ?

this isnt the one i have, but similar
http://www.toolsource.com/airlift-cooling-system-leak-checker-airlock-purge-tool-p-78219.html

 

[vfr-rider]

Wait, I figured he was checking and refilling his surge tank pretrip or some such. If your talking about bone dry filling the cooling system, use an electric pump to draw from the bulk tank or that air-lift system. Also, Wakeon makes a HD cooling system tester that, while using shop air and a regulator to pressure test, has the capability to also fill the cooling system by creating a vaccum similar to the air-lift kit.

Sent from my PG41200 using Tapatalk 2

 

[sdguy55]

Nope this would be bone-dry refilling. And battlegrad yes i heard you and researched it just still looking/listening for other options. I dont want to spend 118 if i can rig up a system to work just as well. I just wont be able to pressurize the system is all. And vfr im having trouble trying to find this Wakeon one. Link possibly? Also just for the hell of it if i could find an air operated fluid transfer valve that would work PERFECT for this but even an electric one would work great. 13 gallons is just alot to pump by hand.

 

[Rodhotz]

13 ain't squat, our yellow iron takes 30 and up! Try one of these work great, hook it to a hose add air and go!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#diaphragm-transfer-pumps/=hp42bc

 

[atomicpunk]

Where I work now they buy the coolant already mixed in a 55 gallon drum. You could get a drum caddy and use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00132AM9I/?tag=atomicindus08-20 to pump the coolant, just hookup to the batteries on the truck for power.
As for climbing up on the tire I just wheel a set of these over if I'm going to be up and down allot: http://www.google.com/products/cata...YenAT62oEoS26QGawNXVCg&sqi=2&ved=0CJkBEPMCMAE

 

[purplezr2]

How about a 5 gallon garden sprayer modified with a radiator cap on the end and air regulator to pressurize the tank.

 

[sdguy55]

How about a 5 gallon garden sprayer modified with a radiator cap on the end and air regulator to pressurize the tank.

Wow you know i never thought of that...to make setup really easy just make the hose alot longer to have the sprayer on the ground and pump it up down there. Then all i would need is the pump, hose and radiator cap. How would you pump air into the sprayer though? All the ones i have seen are hand pumped.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

Alot of those garden sprayers have a low output though, it would take forever. But something similar may work. I've always done it just by climbing on the tire. Never really thought about any other way. That air lift would be nice though. I think vacuum filling is probably the fastest, easiest way. No taking it up to operating temp, sitting there revving it waiting for the system to open up. Still should make sure... but ya know.

Those transfer pumps aren't cheap, a few hundred bucks just to pump antifreeze. And I know in my shop, it would be used for more then just that, contaminating everything that went through it, and shortening it's life... No matter where I'd hide it..

 

[sdguy55]

Actually funky CAT's supposedly are supposedly suppose to fill the whole system when you fill it up. I have always had to add at least another gallon or two after it gets warmed up but its a heck of a lot better than ZERO coolant in the block, radiator drains, fill back up, warm up, fill up, over and over again. But still need to find an effiecient way to do this...the old gears are turnin

 

[RECox286]

Don't youse guys have a step ladder in the shop ? A roll around work stand ? Or

a type of stand that mounts to the truck tire ?

Uncle Bob

 

[vfr-rider]

Nope this would be bone-dry refilling. And battlegrad yes i heard you and researched it just still looking/listening for other options. I dont want to spend 118 if i can rig up a system to work just as well. I just wont be able to pressurize the system is all. And vfr im having trouble trying to find this Wakeon one. Link possibly? Also just for the hell of it if i could find an air operated fluid transfer valve that would work PERFECT for this but even an electric one would work great. 13 gallons is just alot to pump by hand.

If you balked at $118, this is probably not the kit for you. However, this does it all and to all of the HD trucks. It's two tools in one, pressure test up to 30psi and refill the cooling system. Here is a link to the kit, http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/WAE-61968.html I have sold them north of $500 and the techs were happy to get them. Real high quality stuff that is made in the USA.

I am sure with a bit of ingenuity, you could adapt this kit to test charge air coolers as well. Word of caution though, I have heard of CAC test plugs shooting across shops and leaving dents in walls/ceilings.

 

[white6589]

Being a driver I've always likes using these to fill radiator. Holds 2.5 gallon and with spout you don't have to climb.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=42&partnum=9807&a=FR42-9807-293352

 

[mvptrukin]

The shop I work in has a waekon that looks to be the same model in the link that vfr-rider posted -works great.The sad part is I have been in the position that sd55guy is in, shops are expecting trk, heavy equip techs to purchase tools that used to be shop equip, then the other techs want to borrow the tool and you get the "you're not a team player" if you refuse.

 

[sdguy55]

Don't youse guys have a step ladder in the shop ? A roll around work stand ? Or

a type of stand that mounts to the truck tire ?

Uncle Bob

Hahaha...o if only, if only, our shop is to cheap to purchase such things like ladders and stuff that make sense. I mean were talkin about people that it took them 3 months to get us freakin floor jacks. FLOOR JACKS!

Being a driver I've always likes using these to fill radiator. Holds 2.5 gallon and with spout you don't have to climb.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=42&partnum=9807&a=FR42-9807-293352

We actually have those EXACT one's only problem is in the course of setting it on the tire, full, it sloshes, then climbing up on wet tire and moving it to top of engine, it sloshes. Then when you go to pour it the radiator fill neck is at to much of an angle for that to work all that well.

The shop I work in has a waekon that looks to be the same model in the link that vfr-rider posted -works great.The sad part is I have been in the position that sd55guy is in, shops are expecting trk, heavy equip techs to purchase tools that used to be shop equip, then the other techs want to borrow the tool and you get the "you're not a team player" if you refuse.

EXACTLY. When i make this it will all of a sudden be acquired by the shop as a 'shop tool' But luckily im the only truck mechanic so im the only one that will use it 99% of the time.

 

[sdguy55]

http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv7241.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=MITMV7241&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u&gclid=CLSx7uyznrACFQoDQAod3VqLWA
Anybody have any ideas on how this would work in transferring the fluid 'up' i always thought that in order for this to work where you wanted the the fluid to go had to be lower than where it was. But if it would work then it's just a matter of getting heater hose up to a radiator cap and then a hose into a bucket of coolant.

 

[zsuperbee]

13 ain't squat, our yellow iron takes 30 and up! Try one of these work great, hook it to a hose add air and go!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#diaphragm-transfer-pumps/=hp42bc

Areo pumps would be my choice very dependable been using them for all types of liquid. They will pump just about any thing with the right type of diaphragm

 

[Cardboard Man]

do people read anything i post ?

this isnt the one i have, but similar
http://www.toolsource.com/airlift-cooling-system-leak-checker-airlock-purge-tool-p-78219.html

^^^^ THIS.

Love mine. Once you use one, you'll never do it any other way ever again. Fills it just right every time and you don't have to burp it afterward.

 

[sdguy55]

Well i wasnt doing much today cause its raining here so i decided to go to the shop and try and rig something up.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tj4b2d8imv5dodd/2012-05-26%2013.36.47.jpg
Prototype #1- Keep in mind i dont know anything about how to create a vacuum and all that other sciency stuff, i just wanted to try and rig something up and see what would happen. This actually created a pretty good vacuum in the bottom T where the hoses are hooked up but it wasnt enough to **** fluid from one to the other. Interesting note when you dip one hose end in and then pull it out it makes a hell of a 'application spray' out of the side parallel to the airline fitting. Atomized coolant REAKS. After this i messed around with extending either bottom or the top with more fittings or tried downsizing one side or the other to see if i could create more of a vacuum one way or the other. And then i tried this
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kf64bw6q1q2kjtg/2012-05-26%2013.51.31.jpg
I thought maybe by creating more friction on one end that i might get better results. The results? Again one hell of an 'application spray' except this time i got a constant spray out the the port parallel to the air fitting. When missing with the quarter turn valve i could get a lil coolant to dribble out of it but nothing worth noting. So i decided to call it quits after that and sit and think on it for a lil while.

 

[camarotoolman]

Y've going to fall off that tire and bust your ***. Get a good step ladder and a big garden watering can. HD or Lowes.

 

[jaker10]

When we drain a rad. we drain it into a cut off 55 gal. drum. To refill we use a 110 volt trash pump and a hose. Just climb up put hose in rad. neck and plug in. If you try this get a very small GPM pump. If you have to slow down fill rate we have a ball valve in the hose to slow it down.

 

[sdguy55]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I might try and get our shop to buy the 118 dollar one. I dont see them doing it but doesnt hurt to ask i guess

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

Sometimes depending on the shop you work for, you just gotta bite the bullet and buy the stuff yourself. It *****, but if it makes your life easier... get it. If your doing alot of radiator fills or drains it's well worth it. beats climbing up and down a tire. besides,118 bucks is like a set of SO screw drivers...

 

[Cardboard Man]

Look at it this way, an airlift will save you a lot of time and trouble. If you're flat rate, saving time means more money in your pocket. If you're hourly, pitch it to the boss that you'll get more work done faster and that he'll save money. Productivity up, costs down. Service managers love that kind of stuff.

 

[Rodhotz]

You need to present it to them as a safety item and make sure they know what would happen if you fell off. most places can make the purchase if it is safety related.

 

[clueless]

to do a complete refill we had 2 different setups,1 is a boat sump pump which you put right in the drain pan with a hose, 250 gpm will pump good.the other was a 12v fuel transfer pump off a 7700 international. works good,little slow,but safe and not messy.

at another shop we had what i called the turtle, a big round drainpan with a flapper valve and a hose with a shutoff on it . that worked decent,but the flapper was tricky sometimes...

 

[sdguy55]

Just to let you guys know i ended up getting a MAC CSR300. Its not a mightyvac but it operates on the same principles. This is it but with two rubber adapters ment to fit almost all systems.
http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/product/tabid/120/p-325646-cooling-system-refiller.aspx
You can pressurize the system BUT its just a vacuum gauge so no way to tell how much pressure is in the system.

 

[thejudges69]

there is a tool for this, it has a hose that lays in the bucket and is run by shop air, my neighbor has one. The shop air poduces pressure and pushes the water into the radiator and it will also push the air out of the hose while filling. its a no mess no fuss type deal. I don't know who made it but its slick. I personally do the same when filling my radiator on my 379 just stand on the tire and pour slowly.

 

[chris142]

evert Diesel shop I've been in had reels hanging from the roof with different liquids .. just pull the hose . and watch the counter so you know how much you put in. then the hose reels back up

 

[sdguy55]

evert Diesel shop I've been in had reels hanging from the roof with different liquids .. just pull the hose . and watch the counter so you know how much you put in. then the hose reels back up

We have those to but just for oils not coolant. Massive oversight i think on their part but w/e.

 

[sdguy55]

Hello again, i decided to not make another thread for this question. Do you guys use any specialty tools for air brakes? If so what ones? I have been using just regular pry bars, vise grips, etc. The one i have been seriously considering is a tool for the heavy return spring. Sometimes that ones a bit of a bear to get hooked. Suggestions?

 

[mzbk2l]

Turn the slack adjusters in so the shoes are backed off as far as possible.

Wedge a long pry bar (24" or so) over the spindle and under the end of the shoe. Lift the end of the shoe up high enough to pop the roller out of the cavity (using a screwdriver or pliers, not your fingers) and then set the shoe back down on the cam.

Do that to both ends and the springs come off with almost no effort.

Edited to add: reverse for reinstallation. Leave the cam followers out, set the shoes in place and hook the springs (doesn't take much effort without the rollers), then use the pry bar to move the shoe off the cam and drop the roller in place.

 

[richiewrench]

The way I do truck brakes. I have cam followers in, place top shoe in place with all springs hanging. Take bottom shoe and hook single heavy spring first (you have to have shoe at about 90 degrees to get close enough to hook). After that's hooked you just use your body weight to push down and twist, set the bottom shoes cam roller in as you twist and the large spring will pull shoe into place. Then you just have the small springs hanging, which I use a vice grip to pull down and hook.

This works great for me, I also remove in the same way, just reverse order. Next time I do one I'll video it.

 

[sdguy55]

Alright coming to the experts again. Just didnt want to make another thread for it. I have convinced our shop to look into possibly getting some software for our trucks so we can hook up a computer to it and read, clear codes and to do some diagnostic troubleshooting on our trucks. Our trucks range from 3406e-C15-C15 regen, DD13-15, and Cummins ISX. Most of our trucks are all Freightliners and a 2 Western Stars. Im looking at 3 possibilities right now.
1) Laptop with all three OEM softwares (EXPENSIVE)
2) NexIQ http://www.nexiq.com/
3) Jpro http://www.jprofleetproducts.com/software/jpro_fleetdiagsmodule_hd.asp
With the OEM i know i could do all the tests that i need to perform (cylinder cutout, injector testing) but like i said above it is very expensive. I also know that i wouldnt be able to get 'dealership level' access to the engines so i wont be able to do things such as forced regens and such. The NexIQ seems like a good compromise on price and seems like it would do everything i need it to. And after looking deeper into the Jpro it seems like it could do a few things but it doesnt go as deep as the NexIQ or OEM. It states that it CAN go as deep as OEM but you have to have the OEM software downloaded separately and it basically just makes it easier to use. Anyone out there use any of these three? This is expensive stuff and I need to make the correct purchase the first time i wont have a second chance at this.