VCT Install

[turbosl2]

I just picked up my Armstrong VCT Tile from Lowes. I did pretty good on the price. I bought three colors, 51910,51820,51915, turns out HD had a cheaper price on the 51910 (32.85 box of 45) and lowes wanted 40.05. I called lowes cust service and they price matched it to 32.85 then took 10% off for 29.57 box or ~.66 cents sq ft. They didnt have the other one color, but the blue was cheaper at lowes (32.85) and teh grey (51915) was only available from lowes at 40.05, they still price matched the blacks price and took 10% off. So total for 20 boxes (900sq-ft) i paid $641 or .71 cents.

I went down the glue isle and they had 2 1gallon tubs of armstrong S-750 for 3.70 instead of $18, i bought both, but i need more. Couldnt believe it.

Question is, whats the process to put this down? I read som articals on here and the armstrong instructions.

Some questions i didnt get answers to
-What do i do about my cut joints, they are saw but but the concrete shrunk up and they are prob 3/8" wide instead of a blade thickness, anything at home dopey or lowes that i can fill it with that actually will work well? Do they sell epoxy patch there?

-Should i degrease and treat the floor with anything first?

-Do i have to use a 1/32" trowel, is it possible to dump the glue out and roll it with a nap roller?

-I get a large area of glue down then wait until its not that tacky and install it within that time window (i guess i am not doing 900sq ft all at once.

-Should i roll it with a 100lb roller?

-When i am finished do i need a power buffer to get it glossy, or is there a product for that?

Thanks guys

 

[JimVonBaden]

I just picked up my Armstrong VCT Tile from Lowes. I did pretty good on the price. I bought three colors, 51910,51820,51915, turns out HD had a cheaper price on the 51910 (32.85 box of 45) and lowes wanted 40.05. I called lowes cust service and they price matched it to 32.85 then took 10% off for 29.57 box or ~.66 cents sq ft. They didnt have the other one color, but the blue was cheaper at lowes (32.85) and teh grey (51915) was only available from lowes at 40.05, they still price matched the blacks price and took 10% off. So total for 20 boxes (900sq-ft) i paid $641 or .71 cents.

I went down the glue isle and they had 2 1gallon tubs of armstrong S-750 for 3.70 instead of $18, i bought both, but i need more. Couldnt believe it.

Great Price!

Question is, whats the process to put this down? I read som articals on here and the armstrong instructions.

Some questions i didnt get answers to
-What do i do about my cut joints, they are saw but but the concrete shrunk up and they are prob 3/8" wide instead of a blade thickness, anything at home dopey or lowes that i can fill it with that actually will work well? Do they sell epoxy patch there?

Sorry, can't help.

-Should i degrease and treat the floor with anything first?

-Do i have to use a 1/32" trowel, is it possible to dump the glue out and roll it with a nap roller?

No, use the proper trowel!

-I get a large area of glue down then wait until its not that tacky and install it within that time window (i guess i am not doing 900sq ft all at once.

Best to let it get tackey so it doesn't slide around when you put it down, about half an hour, and good for 3 hours.

-Should i roll it with a 100lb roller?

You should, though I did not. I used my body mass and stepped on every part 3-4 times. A roller would have worked better.

-When i am finished do i need a power buffer to get it glossy, or is there a product for that?

The tile comes with a coating that needs to be stripped, IF you wish to wax or seal it. Otherwise just leave it.

Thanks guys

See my sigline 20x20 Slow Build for more details.

Jim

 

[turbosl2]

Cool, thanks

What's the story about this coating that needs to be stripped? Does that require just a chemical or a power buffer or sander? Can you give me more details

 

[JimVonBaden]

Cool, thanks

What's the story about this coating that needs to be stripped? Does that require just a chemical or a power buffer or sander? Can you give me more details

Its a chemical that they put on, a sealer. You do not have to remove it unless you are going to apply something else. You can use a chemical stripper from Armstrong, available at Home Depot for about $23. Basically a mop on and rinse off application.

If you wish to use an epoxy you will have to sand the tiles first. If you wish to wax, you will need to strip them first, then you can apply either a wax that requires buffing, or no buffing.

Jim

 

[turbosl2]

Great, thanks for the info. Do you have any product names/part numbers

 

[JimVonBaden]

http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/floor-care/vinyl-care-instructions.html

http://www.installerstore.com/VCT-Cleaner-and-Sealer.html

Jim

 

[turbosl2]

Anyone have any info on what to do with the cut control joints. They are 3/8 to 1/2 inch in some areas, looks like the concrete shrunk

 

[Pinhook]

Anyone have any info on what to do with the cut control joints. They are 3/8 to 1/2 inch in some areas, looks like the concrete shrunk

Concrete shrinks. The sun rises.

Respect the joints.

 

[turbosl2]

Haha, nice line...but that doesn't help much

 

[JimVonBaden]

I'm a little surprised that one of the MANY flooring companies that patronize this site have no answer for you.

I know there are fillers of different kinds used for epoxy floor cracks, and I am pretty sure they woulkd work under VCT as the VCT is more forgiving than epoxy to slight movement.

Jim

 

[turbosl2]

Ya, that's what I am looking for. I am worried that if I don't fill then the tiles will crack there. What did u do with yours

 

[JimVonBaden]

Ya, that's what I am looking for. I am worried that if I don't fill then the tiles will crack there. What did u do with yours

My garage floor didn't have any cracks or expansion joints, so I didn't have to deal with it.

Jim

 

[turbosl2]

Haha, I guess that makes it easy

 

[JimVonBaden]

This looks promising. http://www.ardex.com/productDetail.asp?ContentParentID=2&ProductCategoryID=19&ProductID=18

Of course something like this is available at Lowes or Home Depot.

Jim

 

[flybefree]

Turbo,

I just put down VCT in my shop office...I emailed Armstrong and they said I need to fill the expansion joints. The big box stores sell a floor leveler for just such a task, I used the Henry brand, so far looks good.

FWIW

Shaun

 

[JimVonBaden]

Amazing that the multiple vendors on this forum haven't said a word! Guess they do not see a sale coming from participation, so no need to assist!

Jim

 

[Ch3No2]

I just built a 1280 sq ft garage with saw cuts...I waited 1 year for the concrete to shrink and crack...most of the cracks were down in the saw cuts.
I used Ardex Feather Finish from White Cap....3 coats with a putty knife and disc sanded with a Ridgid 16 grit pad from HD meant for just that.
I wanted it exceptionally smooth as I was going to epoxy but I have changed my mind and going wiith the Armstrong Commercial 51910 and 51911 laying a diagonal checkerboard
I have done this twice now with excellent results...pics posted are from the previous garage with tool lines...did the same thing and epoxied

 

[Garage Flooring]

Amazing that the multiple vendors on this forum haven't said a word! Guess they do not see a sale coming from participation, so no need to assist!

Jim

I appreciate where you are coming from on this. The problem is, from my standpoint, I do not want to give advice on a product I am not familiar with. We started researching the idea of selling VCT and I was and am in the process of gathering information about using it in garages, but the information that I have received contradicts what I read here. The manufacturer(s) are saying VCT should not be used in a garage at all.http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154284

All that to say, I don't know all the vendors here but I think in this case the best resources are the other members because many of us are hesitant to give advice on a product we don't work with day in and day out.....

 

[JimVonBaden]

I understand your reluctance to mention VCT fixes, given your lack of background in it, but what about the cracks? Seems it should be similar to, or even easier than, epoxy crack filling before epoxy is installed.

Jim

 

[turbosl2]

Turbo,

I just put down VCT in my shop office...I emailed Armstrong and they said I need to fill the expansion joints. The big box stores sell a floor leveler for just such a task, I used the Henry brand, so far looks good.

FWIW

Shaun

this is what I needed to know. I figured but now I just need to get it filled. I wasn't sure if when it moves it could raise the filler above the surface pushing up the tiles. But if they want them filled I will do it the manf way

 

[turbosl2]

I just built a 1280 sq ft garage with saw cuts...I waited 1 year for the concrete to shrink and crack...most of the cracks were down in the saw cuts.
I used Ardex Feather Finish from White Cap....3 coats with a putty knife and disc sanded with a Ridgid 16 grit pad from HD meant for just that.
I wanted it exceptionally smooth as I was going to epoxy but I have changed my mind and going wiith the Armstrong Commercial 51910 and 51911 laying a diagonal checkerboard
I have done this twice now with excellent results...pics posted are from the previous garage with tool lines...did the same thing and epoxied

looks good. Has anyone used sika multisurface crack filler. Available at HD
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...0053&langId=-1&keyword=sikaflex&storeId=10051

 

[Ch3No2]

I tried using quikcrete years ago but it had way to much sand and wouldn't blend in well at all...the Ardex "Feather Finish" is basically a very strong concrete putty that will fill cracks and go to a "feather" out...Just my opinion I dont think anything out of a tube will have the same psi rating as Ardex

 

[turbosl2]

I an not to concerned with the look because the VCt is covering it

 

[Garage Flooring]

I understand your reluctance to mention VCT fixes, given your lack of background in it, but what about the cracks? Seems it should be similar to, or even easier than, epoxy crack filling before epoxy is installed.

Jim

It probably is BUT, I just saw this happen yesterday. A customer was told by another firm what adhesive to use. The customer took the advice and now has a mess. Just because a product works well for epoxy does not mean it will work well for VCT. Even with epoxy, I tell customers to have the manufacturer either provide the product or suggest in writing which product to use