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64 Metals 40'x64'x10',4" Build

ccm399

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Mar 31, 2012
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175
Location
Medina, Ohio
Hi guys,

I introduced myself a while back and I now have some movement on the project so I think it's time for a build thread!

We should have the kit mid to late June or so. Anyway, I figured the site needs cleared either way so no time like the present.

Here are some pic:

DSC_2531.jpg


DSC_2527.jpg


DSC_2530.jpg


DSC_2528.jpg


The sod pile (I should have parked the Deere next to it for perspective):
DSC_2529.jpg


More to come.

Chris
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
I figured I would get comments about the bird house in the middle of the pad if I didn't mention why it was still there. Sorry about the spelling.

Chris
 

Nighttrain

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Aug 6, 2009
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2,682
Location
Dripping Springs, Tx
Dang I thought that was a stripper pole. Guess I won't watch the build now> just kidding. I will be watching this one go up. Steel or stick? Where are you located?
 
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ccm399

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Mar 31, 2012
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Medina, Ohio
No progress planned for this weekend.... I am knee deep in helping my Dad with his siding project. The good part is once that's done we will be knocking the barn out next. The downside is that the siding we are doing is cedar on an A-Frame house.... LOTS of work/time to get that all done. We have a good dent in it but still lots to do.

As for my building it is a "hybrid" if you will. Wood posts, grits, purlins and grade boards with steel trusses.

Stay tuned...

Chris
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
Got the whole pad cleared off. Started building up the low side with clay but Dad needed the tractor back for a little while. We got the engineered drawings from 64 Metal and dropped them off at the building department today. They tell us that we should have the permit by the end of the week. :)

As soon as we get the cedar siding done at Dad's house I can begin focusing on the barn.

Stay tuned,

Chris
 

thejudges69

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Jun 1, 2012
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Location
youngstown, ohio
Its really none of my business, but I know when i was house shopping I was looking for a place with a building and everyone I saw was a big building like your doing but then they put a short door in it. Just curious why you didn't go with a taller door, I know its almost impossible to find a place with a 14 foot door.
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
Its really none of my business, but I know when i was house shopping I was looking for a place with a building and everyone I saw was a big building like your doing but then they put a short door in it. Just curious why you didn't go with a taller door, I know its almost impossible to find a place with a 14 foot door.

That's an easy one.... I am building it for me not the next guy. :)

That might be a little short sighted but I see no reason to heat and cool all that extra cubic feet of air. Being a 64 metals building the ceiling is vaulted so I can put a taller door in the gable end (not 14' but taller none the less) if I choose to. This building will be used for automotive and custom fab work. No need for 15 or 16' eves. The 2-post lift will fit in just fine. :bounce:

I can understand the question but since I don't have a need for a tall door I see no reason to pay to heat and cool the space.

Chris
 
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ccm399

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The delivery has been made. I have not gotten the pics off my camera yet though. I have to go out of town for work this week though so no movement this week. :(

Stay tuned.

Chris
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
Man... tough crowd... :)

Ok Ok you are right so here goes.

Some additional pics of the pad build up:
DSC_2952.jpg


The hole I made to get the clay:
DSC_2953.jpg


The view out of the bottom of the hole (I am 6'6" for your reference):
DSC_2954.jpg


The kit being delivered:
DSC_2959.jpg


DSC_2961.jpg


DSC_2964.jpg


DSC_2970.jpg


That is all for now. Layout and hole drilling is next!

Chris
 
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ccm399

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:)

That's why I updated my profile to include my location....

Batter boards are ready. Pics soon.

Chris
 

RS69

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Joined
Jan 20, 2010
Messages
15
Location
Galena, OH
I have a 64 metals 30x40 pole barn and a 36x56 shop. They make a very good kit and I am very happy with it. My 30x40 is used for livestock and is about 8 years old. They are very helpful when building the barn, even when I screwed some pieces up, free replacement. They also had a building seminar which was also very helpful.
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
We got some holes drilled last night. No pics though... trying to beat the rain that was supposed to be coming (and hasn't shown up yet). We covered them with plastic to keep any rain out. Ground water should flow away from most of them all except one is in a high spot.

We figured I am too busy at work these days to take enough time off to get all the holes drilled and poles set in a timely fashion so we have no choice but to drill holes and cover them as we have time (evenings).

Stay tuned.
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
I have a 64 metals 30x40 pole barn and a 36x56 shop. They make a very good kit and I am very happy with it. My 30x40 is used for livestock and is about 8 years old. They are very helpful when building the barn, even when I screwed some pieces up, free replacement. They also had a building seminar which was also very helpful.

Thanks for the vote of confidence on 64 metals. The wife and I did attend one of their seminars and you are right it was helpful.

Chris
 

bjcouche

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Sep 11, 2010
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509
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Ohio
I'm in the process of placing the finishing touches on my 64 metals building and thought I should give you some advice before it's too late. First of all if you are planning for a vehicle lift now is the time to lay out the location BEFORE the concrete is poured. In the location where the lift is to go I would recommend increasing the floor thickness. I did a 4'X14' area around the posts with 10-12" concrete instead of the 6" that the rest of the garage is. I put a grid of rebar in the concrete 6" from the top. That way when I drilled the mounting holes for the lift at 5" deep I'd never have the possibility of hitting the rebar. This is all quite overkill I know, but I had the opportunity before the floor was poured. At a minimum I would just thicken it in that area. Make absolutely sure that when they go to cut expansion joints in the concrete that you have them marked out exactly where they need to be around the lift. There is minimum spacing requirements from the lift manufacturer between the bolt holes and an expansion seam. Also, the two posts should be on the same piece, meaning there shouldn't be an expansion seam between the posts.
Finally, if you are building the building yourself that's good. I had 64 build it and it wasn't up to my high quality expectations. I liked their "kit" but not the folks they subcontract for the build. Thy knew what they were doing but you could tell they were the low cost bidder. If you are building it yourself and some shortcuts are taken, it won't bother you so much because you were the one that did it.

One of these day's I'll start posting my build.. But I couldn't as it was built, took 14 months, long story...

Brian
in Newark Ohio
 

bjcouche

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Ohio
I sure am long winded, But thought of another suggestion. Before you pour the slab, think of how you want to do the wiring in the garage. For example, if your breaker panel is at one side of the garage and you have a light switch clear on the other side, or an air compressor, welder, etc. If you know these things now you have the option to install some PVC electrical conduit under the concrete. I too have the 64 metals vaulted ceiling with the metal trusses and it would have been much more difficult to route conduit up to the ceiling, across the building and then back down. Not to mention that the PVC is only about 0.10 per foot. You can transition to EMT as you come out of the concrete. Overall cheaper, cleaner install, shorter wires, etc. Only downside is that it's a conduit install not a romex install so you'll be using single wires of THWN instead of romex... For all I know you've also got in floor heat planned... but it's just the pre planning that makes the difference. I did the conduit idea on my 40X64X14 and I love it.

Brian
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
Hi Brian,

Thanks for the wiring suggestion! That is awesome. I have the lift location all laid out so yes that section will be poured thicker as you mentioned (probably not 12" but thicker none the less.

I did not go with 64 to build the building as during the class they said "up to 1/2 out of square is OK" Sorry not my building! At least not until the wood decides where IT wants my building to be! :) I was a machinist for 15 years before my career change so 1/2 to me is WAYYYY out! Plus $8000 to put it up seemed a bit high.

May Dad and best friend are Journeymen carpenters so I have access to good help! Plus Dad has all kinds of COOL tools (John Deere 110TLB and Laser transit in the pics for example ;) )
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
All the holes are drilled:

DSC_2985.jpg


We passed our inspection today... on to setting poles!

Chris
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
I had to make a drive adapter for the 30" auger. Here are a couple pics of the welds (I need more practice!).

DSC_2987.jpg


DSC_2986.jpg


It held up to 10 30" holes including hitting some rocks (more on that in a minute) so they must not have been too bad.
 
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ccm399

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Ok, so that was more than a minute...

Anyway, I was about 20 or so inches down when the auger seemed like it was not really digging much. I increased the pressure a little but still nothing. So I took it out of the hole, cleaned it out and saw nothing wrong, no rocks nothing. So I try again same deal... tried a little more pressure and next thing I know the front tires are just about to lift off the ground. Then it hits me... the center must be hitting a rock. So I took the auger out of the hole again and started digging...

This is what I found:
DSC_2990.jpg


That took about 1 -1.5 hours to dig out of the rock hard clay in our yard. You can see the scar where the center of the auger hit in the upper left side. We only hit 4 or five rocks that required me to stop and manually dislodge them so all in all I think we did OK considering we bored 25 holes total.

Chris
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
Hi guys,

Eric, yes 30" diameter holes for 10 poles. 8 supposed to be 20" but my cousin only had a 24" auger so those were a little bigger than they had to be. They need to be so large because of the hybrid building 64 metals offers. There are only 3 trusses on a 64' long building plus the two end walls of course. So there is a significant amount of weight on the center poles. Now. why the garage door posts need 20" pads I have NO idea... there is no weight on the eve walls so all those posts do is hold the garage door in place.

A 30" hole 44" deep is about 2.5 buckets on the John Deere to give you an idea on the volume of dirt we are talking about.

As far as the welding goes I used to weld on a regular basis but I have not had much need (or time) to weld lately so there are some flaws (mostly cosmetic) here and there. Not too bad though. Thanks for the props.

Chris
 
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ccm399

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Medina, Ohio
My wife tells me I forgot to mention the real reason I feel I need more practice welding. About a year ago I had an accident that for the most part took the vision in my right eye. So even though I was fairly good at welding before I had to relearn so to speak. TIG welding is even tougher but I am getting better at that too. Limited depth perception makes some things a lot harder. Driving nails for example, I can't tell if or when the nail might be wandering so I have a hard time with it.

On a brighter note we got two poles set today!

Chris
 
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