35x35 metal shop build

[my73ss454]

Couple of reasons for the side entrance. Mainly, our HOA only allows the equivalent of a one car garage door facing the street. Attached to the house, we already have a 3 car garage facing east and a 1 car garage facing the street (north). When we built the house, its orientation was not by accident, so we have morning sun and the extremly hot afternoons and evenings the sun is not glairing into the garage. Surprised how some don't think of this and then comment how horrible it is that the hot Texas sun makes it unbearable to work in their garage.

Also, in order to retain as much of our land as possible, the driveway skirts just to the side of our property. This has allowed the retention of a decent amount of open space behind us.

Good timing on our part as there is now a house on the lot next to us where the shop is and the lot on the other side of us has been sold with construction of a house very soon. Would have been extremly difficult to bring in all that concrete and heavy vehicles. This way, they drove on our neighboring properties

Overall, the entire build was approximately 30k.

 

[Dano5509]

Very nice! Does the $30k include all the concrete for the shop and the run back to your house? If so, that total amount is a lot less than I thought it would be.

 

[my73ss454]

Yup, cost was for everything including all concrete. When we began to get estimates, the long driveway was my concern. Ultimately, its width was shorted from 12' to 10'.

 

[Joe From NY]

man, i envy you country dudes...

 

[Dano5509]

We have our neighborhood home listed now for the very purpose of moving just north of town onto 10 acres or so...... I really like the look of an all steel building and would like to put up the same thing. Tks for sharing the pics and pricing...

 

[my73ss454]

Lift installed. Already paid for itself!

 

[RbrtAWhyt]

Kickass!!!

 

[W_KY]

I just moved to the Denton, TX area (north of DFW). Very nice build and nice to see what you can get for that kind of $. Did you by chance price a wooden (stick built) equivalent?

 

[VegasBruce]

Sweet

 

[sundevil64]

What was the name of the company that did the build? I just bought a nice ranch house on two acres and I'm looking into buiding a garage hopefully sooner than later. I don't have an HOA so no worries on the # of doors facing the front.

Also what coating (brand) did you use for the floor. Looking to put the same in my garage. How has it been holding up?

 

[my73ss454]

sundevil64: Shop was built by Jasco Services (http://jascoservices.com/index.html). Probably should call to see how far they extend beyond the DFW area. Perhaps they can recommend a builder to look into if they don't venture to Austin. Regarding the floor, I'm not exactly sure of the coating, but I did overlay with Quikrete High Gloss Sealer (Clear 51790) I purchaced at Lowes. Please look carefully at the floor in the latest pictures. Never mind hot tire tracks, but when I move a car with "cold" tires on the floor for a few minutes, it also leaves tire marks. I'd suggest going to the Flooring section of the Forum and see what others are recommending. Some good discussion in there on a variety of products/procedures.

W_KY: I did investigate a bit into a wooden equivelant and was not happy with what I was told in terms of framing options, that could other wise be accomidated with a steel building. Absolutely don't regret decisions made other than floor sealer. Plus, most shops/buildings out here are metal.

 

[fastzr1]

Great update. Garage looks great and glad to see you using and enjoying it.

 

[bigtreadz]

sundevil64: Shop was built by Jasco Services (http://jascoservices.com/index.html). Probably should call to see how far they extend beyond the DFW area. Perhaps they can recommend a builder to look into if they don't venture to Austin. Regarding the floor, I'm not exactly sure of the coating, but I did overlay with Quikrete High Gloss Sealer (Clear 51790) I purchaced at Lowes. Please look carefully at the floor in the latest pictures. Never mind hot tire tracks, but when I move a car with "cold" tires on the floor for a few minutes, it also leaves tire marks. I'd suggest going to the Flooring section of the Forum and see what others are recommending. Some good discussion in there on a variety of products/procedures.

 

[bigtreadz]

The following is by no means a slam or intent to steer any business away from Jasco Services, LLC. I'm certain they are a fine and reputable company with a great track record. This is simply a quick story of my experience with this particular company.
Overall the building structure is acceptable with a few punchout items remaining, the biggest factor being that I can't fit my primary piece of, income producing, equipment into my new shop to service it. The shop was built specificaly to house this piece of equipment.
Again, no attempt to slander this company, by all means call them for a quote or consultation...(817) 205-8676.


On April 14, 2010 I, Property Owner, signed an agreement with Jasco Services, LLC., owned by Jimmy Purselley, to construct a metal building on my property Parker County, TX 76087.
Building specifications were written and agreed upon as follows: To construct a building 30ft by 50ft
in length, height 12ft, two ( 2 ) overhead doors 10ft X 10ft. Construction of the metal building was completed on May 13, 2010. Payments for the construction were made in two installments, the first on April 14, 2010 for $16,424.00, and the second on May 13, 2010 for $5,315.00.
This metal building was constructed with the full intent to be utilized for my business in the form of equipment repairs, storage and maintenance of the equipment associated with said business.
On September 9, 2010 it was discovered that the building had actually been built only to a height of 11ft and as a result the main entry overhead door was installed at the dimension of 9ft tall by 10ft wide.
In initial negotiations with Mr. Purselley we discussed at length the necessity for the dual 10ft by 10ft overhead doors to accommodate particular equipment( I own and utilize for my income) and the need to get that equipment into said metal building. Mr. Purselley was contacted on September 9, 2010 at 4:16pm and informed him via phone message about this problem. Mr. Purselley responded on September 10, 2010 at 8:44am and acknowledged that this was indeed a problem that he would address and make right according to the contract. In a second conversation on September 10, 2010 Mr. Purselley expressed concern that the building may have already been “wired” for electrical outlets and fixtures. I responded “no” it had not and he was relieved that no installed wires and or fixtures would have to be moved or replaced in raising the height of the metal building. As a result of that conversation the building, to date, has not been “wired” pending the repairs to the structure. In the second September 10th conversation Mr. Purselley stated he would be to my property very soon, “we’re a couple of weeks out”.
I have called Jimmy Purselley several times with no definitive answer to when this will be remedied:
There have been repeated phone calls on my behalf with very few returned and as of most recent, me getting so frustrated to shout explitives over the phone and have Mr. Purselley hang up on me.

Poor on my part, but I need this thing fixed for work!!!!

 

[my73ss454]

I hope that everything works out for you, especially considering it is related to your work, and that when it is all taken care of, it serves you as initially intended.

 

[my73ss454]

Beginning to install a sink in the shop, so I'm looking for anyone's thoughts, especially with the array of connections that seem to be needed. Here is my set up in the corner of the shop:

I have a 1 1/4" drain pipe and a 1" water source pipe. I want to be able to have a faucet but also retain hookup of my garden hose. Here is the sink kit I purchased from Lowes:

and here is what a Lowes employee suggested I do for plumbing which consists of the following:

The pipes will need to be shortened, but from the water source
- keep existing 1" single hose bib
- attach the brass 2 way hose connector (sink to one end, garden hose to other)
- attach to sink end a 1/2" FNPT x 3/4" FHT PVC swivel
- next attach a 1/2" x 2" ****** (grey in picture)
- next add a 3/4" x 1/2" threaded bushing
- next add a 3/4" T (top is threaded, opposite ends no threads)
- on both ends add a 3/4" x 1/2" bushing (no threads on end going into T)
- then on both ends attach a 1/2" x 2 1/2" ******
- followed by a 20" Reinforced PVC Faucet Connector (1/2" FIP In and 1/2" FIP out).

This sounds complicated, but was told that in order for faucet to work and have no leaks, will need to run cold water lines through both the cold and hot in the faucet.

Seems like it will work, but just wanting to double check.

Thanks.

 

[dlenkewich]

Great project.

If I was doing that type of building, I would also go with that sheeted insulation. I'm an insulator 'by trade', but those sheet's go up so quickly and cleanly. Hard to beat that!

I really like the brick cladding, too.

 

[89s rule]

I am liking your build. Makes me really consider doing a steel building for cost reasons. Tbrick at the base really dresses it up. I am plesantly suprized at the low cost for such a large building and large driveway.

For the sink do you want to be able to hook up a hose and still have the sink to work at the same time? You could just purchase a fitting that will attach a hose to the sink at the spout.

Also you can just put a cap on the hot side (under the sink) and not use that handle. Thats just a bunch of un needed fittings that can potentially leak.

 

[my73ss454]

Thus far, I have utilized the setup as recommended by Lowes employee and just installed on tubing as is. Not optimal as the brass 2 way hose connector sits just under the upper top lip of the sink, so it is difficult to get my hands in there. Currently, I utilize the connectors valves as a backup to shut water off.

My plan this thanksgiving weekend is to cut down (a bit) the piping that sticks out of the floor, utilize some elbows, and extend the water source in a more reachable location to the side. Will probably include a shut off valve and a "T" connector in the line. Will cap the "T" temporally as my ideal preference would be to run water to the font of the shop (where garage doors are) so I can utilize a hose rack on the wall/frame rather than pull a hose 35' from the other side of the shop to wash a car . Will take pictures and post before vs. after.

 

[my73ss454]

Bill "v8muscle",

Rest in peace my friend. You will be missed. (post #33).

Chris

 

[my73ss454]

Over a year now, I came home one day after work to find my back yard flooded. Turns out a water connection under my foundation came apart. Never thought about it during build, but made me realize I did not have a in line valve to shut off water. Since the water source comes from my sprinkler system, had to shut off main sprinkler system valve at street. All was fixed in good time. My worries were integrity of foundation now that base was disturbed. After a summer and a half, absolutely no issues I can notice. Anyway, I hired a helper who basically get half way to China ...

 

[HOTFR8]

That was bad luck about the water. I guess you have a tap outside now to shut it off. I like the build but can I ask why the bricks outside like that ? Municipal regulations ?

 

[my73ss454]

I live in a neighborhood with a Home Owners Association (HOA). Requirements for separate buildings are to have at least a Wayne's coat around building sides that are visible from the street. Since I occupy a perimeter lot, only three of the sides require brick. This is in comparison to the neighborhoods original requirement of full brick, period. Reqirement was changed just before I submitted my plans for approval. Glad you like the shop, as we are thoroughly enjoying it.

 

[HOTFR8]

I live in a neighborhood with a Home Owners Association (HOA). Requirements for separate buildings are to have at least a Wayne's coat around building sides that are visible from the street. Since I occupy a perimeter lot, only three of the sides require brick. This is in comparison to the neighborhoods original requirement of full brick, period. Reqirement was changed just before I submitted my plans for approval. Glad you like the shop, as we are thoroughly enjoying it.

Sorry Waynes coat means ?

 

[mdbeck1]

Sorry Waynes coat means ?

All the references I've ever seen referred to wood paneling halfway up the wall inside a house. Almost always with a decorative top border. I've got some in my house and really like it.

I think the OP is referring to placing a layer of brick halfway up his the exterior wall of his building. I would guess that it would just be for appearances. I believe they call that a facade.

 

[bobscogin]

Sorry Waynes coat means ?

It's "wainscot".

Bob

 

[mdbeck1]

All the references I've ever seen referred to wood paneling halfway up the wall inside a house. Almost always with a decorative top border. I've got some in my house and really like it.

I think the OP is referring to placing a layer of brick halfway up his the exterior wall of his building. I would guess that it would just be for appearances. I believe they call that a facade.

Found it.
http://www.ehow.com/list_6292693_wainscot-paneling-ideas.html

According to this article it's spelled "wainscot". My Google foo worked this time.

 

[HOTFR8]

All the references I've ever seen referred to wood paneling halfway up the wall inside a house. Almost always with a decorative top border. I've got some in my house and really like it.

I think the OP is referring to placing a layer of brick halfway up his the exterior wall of his building. I would guess that it would just be for appearances. I believe they call that a facade.

It's "wainscot".

Bob

Found it.
http://www.ehow.com/list_6292693_wainscot-paneling-ideas.html

According to this article it's spelled "wainscot". My Google foo worked this time.

Facade. OK, thanks. To me that is a lot of expense for nothing but then councils and HOA groups have much to answer for with rules we have to comply with.

 

[my73ss350]

Since my building had been complete, Ive had to have my walk in door adjusted three times. I attribute this to standard settling, but it got to the point that my two roll up doors needed significant adjusting last year. This, coupled with significant cracking in my floor, required me to reach out to my builder and seek a solution. Following discussion with him, he went MIA. Here is my post on BBB, below. It has all been resolved with no help from contractor. I hired a structional engineer and a foundation company to install needed piers. I will add more details in addition to pictures...


Complaint: Contracted with Jasco Services, LLC in May 2010 to construct a metal building, associated foundation, and connecting driveway. Issue that emerged immediately following completion was excessive concrete cracking in the driveway and foundation (Liquid-Stone Concrete contractor). Jasco said they do not use concrete contractor anymore due to repeated issues on past jobs & Liquid-Stone Manager does not honor any warranty. Owner of Jasco & I discussed a solution to cracks in driveway and suggested to cut and seal with polyurethane. This was completed following numerous reminders. All along, I have been monitoring and keeping the owner of Jasco informed of cracks that were also forming in the shop foundation. First, my walk-in door to the shop started to not close properly. Jasco did adjust the door frame by almost 1 inch due to shop movement. Then, the two roll up garage doors started to not function properly. Another visit by Jasco to perform significant shop frame adjustments. At this time, I asked for solution to continual shop foundation cracking. Was told he would stand by his work and either cut sections out & replace or cut cracks and use polyurethane to fill. Owner said he will have his concrete guy come out, inspect, & recommend a solution. Numerous attempts over the course of months on my part to follow up by phone, text, & emails in last half of 2012 to schedule work that Jasco said they would take care of have gone unanswered and emails/texts to owner have been ignored. I selected Jasco because I was pleased with the Owner of Jasco's personal metal building, we were neighbors, and thought he was a friend due to other associations we had. Existing cracks continue to widen and new cracks are forming in shop foundation. Either due to concrete used or inappropriate engineering of foundation by owner of Jasco are causing significant shifting of the metal building to wonder if the structure is secure, will function as expected, and will not fail when using shop for intended purposes.

Desired Settlement: Owner to call me and coordinate a solution so that ultimately I have piece of mind that the structure is secure, will function as expected, and will not fail when using shop for its intended purposes. I would like third party professional evaluation(s) of foundation and have Jasco repair or cover costs if the solution is beyond Jasco's capabilities.

BBB's Final Determination: Business failed to respond to the BBB to resolve or address the complaint issues.

 

[my73ss350]

The independent engineers report suggested 12 piers to be installed along south side of shop. 6 along south wall, one under each post of lift, and two on east and west wall towords southern most ends. As photo shows, major settling has occurred where fill was brought in during foundation prep. Largest difference from base point (bottom left of photo) was 6.5". Goal is to stabilize and level southern 1/2 of floor where lift is located.



Upon review of earlier photos, looks like main issues that lead to foundation failure was:

1. no internal beams, and
2. poor compression/prep of infill dirt

 

[my73ss350]

So, the foundation stabilization began. Placement of three piers required holes in the existing concrete. Here the two that will be installed along east side perimeter beam.





And one inside the shop to go directly under the inner most post of the lift. The other post will be also supported but since it is fairly close to exterior wall, they simply trenched underneath from outside.

 

[hrace18]

Man that ***** you have had all these troubles. I am in the market for a building and was considering calling Jasco, glad I read whole thread now.

 

[bjcouche]

I read your thread from the beginning, and the first thing that came across me was that your driveway and shop floor were concrete poured directly on soil. I don't know if it was compacted prior to to the pour or not. I'm by no means a concrete expert, but everything I've read indicates that the end result is only as good as your base. I've also heard that rebar also doesn't do much for a slab that thin. I had to have my shop built on top of a poured concrete wall, 10-12" thick and 4 to 8' tall due to grade issues front to back. My concrete floor is not attached to the building walls. It's a 40X64 building and I had the floor done 6" thick. They did not use any rebar in the floor at all except under the lift area which I made10" thick. They cut control joints after the pour with a saw. Almost 3 years later I only have 1 shrinkage crack by the man door which appeared after the first couple weeks. The control joints also have some cracks from shrinkage but you can't see them because they are in the cuts. Even the crack by the door has no elevation change at all.
It's all about the base. I have clay with lots of shale for soil. When it's dry the ground is rock hard. They further compacted the virgin soil and placed several inches of crushed gravel on top of the soil. Then they compacted the crushed gravel (gravel might not be the proper term, limestone?). After they compacted the gravel, it was so smooth and hard you could drive on it without leaving tire marks on it.
I also have foundation drains, or "drain tile" around the exterior foundation. Although you don't have a foundation exactly, it would be a good idea to have positive slope around the building so rain flows away from the building, not towards it.

A question on your roll up doors, why insulate the building and then use uninsulated roll up doors? If it's due to interior space, you can get overhead doors that follow the inside roof pitch. It's just tough to find someone who knows how to install them. I installed my own.

 

[my73ss350]

bj, thanks for your interest in this effort. As you pointed out, the end result will be only as good as your base. From my experience I now have, if I had to do it again, I would have paid alot more attention to this part of the process to ensure I get what I intended. I hope that my experiences and commentary like yours will assist others before it's too late so that time will be spent in good quality projects "in" the shop and not "on" the shop.

Regarding the doors, it was the primary option offered. Never questioned it. I do like how they roll up out of the way. When the insulation was discussed, I was told at the time it has to be done before the outside skin goes in. After is too late. So I just decided to plan ahead and have the insulation installed. Doors are a little more flexible.

 

[my73ss350]

Here is more digging around the back half of the shop to install those piers. Basically need to get deep enough for someone to fit inside and in enough to expose exterior beam that will eventually rest on the pier.

 

[my73ss350]

Further visuals in the process of stabilizing my foundation...


Inserting section of pier, one foot at a time. In some cases of the 12 piers installed, a depth of over 20 feet was reached before bottoming out.





This shows cap put on top of pier once bottomed out.



Simple bottle jack used to eventually lift foundation. Keep in mind this shows what is done for one pier, but up to this point all piers get to this point and all piers lifted in unison, comprising a worker in each hole pumping jack at same time on queue.



Finished state with appropriate shims to keep foundation at desired level resting on pier. Next is to fill hole.

 

[sean Buick 76]

WOW, a lot of work to stabilize that shop but it should work well!

I see you have a love for the 73-77 GM A-Body cars! I love my 75 Regal!

 

[MacTexas]

Sorry to see the problems you have with your foundation.

Non garage related question. When you started this thread your signature was my73ss454 now you post with the signature of my73ss350.

Did you change motors or buy a different car?

 

[my73ss350]

WOW, a lot of work to stabilize that shop but it should work well!

I see you have a love for the 73-77 GM A-Body cars! I love my 75 Regal!

Sean, thanks for words of encouragement, but this process took place just about a year ago (behind in getting it posted) and I can tell you that the foundation has shifted on the piers. They will be coming back out (under warranty) to re adjust. It is a friggin nightmare. Biggest worry is safety of vehicles on my lift. Ill document and post next efforts.

Yes, always had a interest in 3rd Gen Chevelles. I had a 77 Malibu as my daily driver in high school and a 75 Chevelle for a winter beater when living in New England. Always wanted a 73 SS, so now I am fortunate enough to have two 73 SS's.

Sorry to see the problems you have with your foundation.

Non garage related question. When you started this thread your signature was my73ss454 now you post with the signature of my73ss350.

Did you change motors or buy a different car?

Mac, good observation. We have two 73 Chevelle's, one with a 454 and one with a stock 350. I changed my username because due to a period of inactivity I could not figure out how to get back in

Our additional intrest that is keeping the shop busy is old school custom van's from the 1970's. As they said back in the day, "If this van is a rockin....." .

 

[Woodweasel]

Thats AWSOME ! Im putting one up now, cant wait to complete !