6'5" here, and in the same boat last year when I bought a lift.
1. I had Mohawks my whole life when I had the shop, and they lift higher than any of the other lifts I measured. This was last year, and I threw my notes away on how high all of the lifts go that I measured.
2. DO NOT read the lift mfr's info sheet and take it as truth. Most of them "slant" their numbers in their favor, misrepresent, or flat out
lie. NONE of the lifts I measured were the same as the mfr stats showed. Many of them use their "pad height" from the floor as
travel when it is far from the truth as that includes the 4-5" extra of the thickness of the arm, air gap to the floor, etc. I was really quite pissed off when I started measuring lifts and looking at the spec sheets. I called 1-2 of them to challenge them on their specs when I found how the slant their numbers. I received BS by the bucketload over the phone.
3. I measured at least 8-10 different brands over a month's time with a tape measure at local shops, using the top of the pad (lift down) and top of the same pad (lift raised all the way) as my basis. Remember there is almost 2" lost to go to the top stop. (as a former shop owner, I have a lot of friends with shops that easily let me in and measure) I remember doing cheap and good Rotaries, Challenger (cheap and good), Mohawks, BendPaks, and others.
4. Mohawk System 1 and A-7 were tied for the most "travel" with a true travel about 4" higher than any of the others that I measured. Unfortunately, those are $5500-6200 delivered (not installed) which is near double what many of the other lifts cost.
5. Most of the "budget" lifts I measured were within 1-1.5" of each other in true travel.
6. I bought a Challenger E10 (10K) late last year for $3200 total with truck adapters and installed it myself. I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable with an 8k SD on it, though. I don't notice any true loss between it and the Mohawks I had, but I only lift 1-2 cars a week for maintenance, not 8 hr repairs.
Good Luck!