opinions on this welder.

[gentz]

Well, i will be buying a mig/tig welder in a few weeks. Being a tech the easiest way to afford something in good in this time frame is to buy from the tool truck, I have credit with the snap on rep as I had purchased the wireless impact, after 5 replacements she gave me truck credit. I will be making monthly payments to her so that i can afford something nice. I like this one;
http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/mig140_npa.pdf
I like the option for aluminum welding and tig conversion pricey but what do you think?

 

[OEXL16B]

Welds 1/4” in a single pass with 140A max output at 60% duty cycle

That's ok for light stuff. How thick of material are you gonna be welding?

 

[gentz]

body work and just light material, like sheet metal work and some fabrication for roll cages...

 

[OEXL16B]

You don't have any 220V available to you huh?

 

[gentz]

not in my home garage, i would have to wire 220v if needed

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

I can't comment on THIS welder but I can comment on my Hobart Handler 140.

It works great on what I use it. I primarily bought it for rusty sheet metal repair on my '55 Cevy truck. For that with the right wire it is fantastic. I'll likely end up doing some light fabrication work too. Right now I have in mind making some awning frames for my house out of 1/2 or 3/4" square tubing. Again, for that this size welder oughta be just fine.

 

[gentz]

this hobart doesnt look too bad....the bad thing is the credit...http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler210/

 

[Murphy4570]

Snappy welders are generally overpriced. Made in Italy.

I personally love Lincoln Electric brand welders, I have an old SP-100 myself.

 

[OEXL16B]

I'm inclined to agree. I wouldn't buy a rebranded welder. I'd stick with name brands like Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, ThermalArc. That way I know what I got and getting parts for them won't be as confusing that way.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

I'll X2 on a hobart handler 140. I've had mine for about 7 years now. I've done alot with it. it's just enough welder to make you comfortable with doing it. I've welded 1/4 with it. Slowly, but surely. I do wish i had a bigger 220v welder, but the option of taking my welder here and there is awesome.

Sometimes with sheet metal the 140 can be a little finicky. I've found it works best with 23 gauge wire. 30 gauge wire for thicker sheet metal like 16 gauge, and 35 gauge wire for 1/8 and up.

I've played around with a lincoln 135, and didn't find it to operate that much differently from my 140. Both used as mig.

 

[78Bird]

Save and buy a big 3 welder. For body work, the small 140 class machines are great. Light weight (relativly), portable, and can be used anywhere there's 110v power. Some roll cage fab might need more power, though. And some require (per rulebooks) that they be tigged.

Why end up paying 2-3x as much since you have to make payments on the truck, on a welder that...

I just looked it up, on the website that thing is $2,065 HOLY ****. WAY not worth it. The top of the line 140 Miller can be had for 1/3 of that. A perfectly great, simple Hobart 140 that will weld pretty much anything on a car or normal truck for 1/4 as much.

Hell, I have well less than $1000 in my Hobart 140, with gas tank, gloves, extra helmet, welding jacket, etc. The snappy don't come with all that **** either, don't forget. For the price of the Snap-on you could have that and also score a dedicated TIG, with more features.

If you are that strapped for cash so the Hobart is unaffordable, you can't afford it anyhow, and ESPECIALLY paying that for the thing on credit with interest.

 

[sr71]

I'm with 78bird. Save your coin (you'll be surprised how quickly you can do this with a goal in mind) and then buy a name brand. Since you are a tech I would also recommend buying a 220 V now (wire garage as necessary).... considering that you will have her for many years to come ....you'll be glad you did.

 

[steel 35]

The tig only does steel, I think you want more so get it for less.

 

[78Bird]

I'm with 78bird. Save your coin (you'll be surprised how quickly you can do this with a goal in mind) and then buy a name brand. Since you are a tech I would also recommend buying a 220 V now (wire garage as necessary).... considering that you will have her for many years to come ....you'll be glad you did.

Yeah, honestly I'd want 220v power doing roll cages, I was comparing apples to apples in the 110v 140 class machines. I dare not look up what they want for the bigger snappy welders.

Even a Miller 211 MIG with dual voltage and all the bells and whistles can be had brand new for <$1000.

 

[ElectroLight]

Another Hobart HH 140 fan here. Had mine for about 7 years now, no complaints. A word of caution, if you go with a120V machine you will need a circuit capable of supplying 20A current if you plan on running it at 140A. So think dedicated, short run, 12Ga wire, 20A breaker, 20A receptacle and no extension cord. As previously stated, avoid the rebranded Snappy, from what I understand, that goes for their air compressors too. Just paying for that sticker on the side...

 

[thehazmatguy]

Even a Miller 211 MIG with dual voltage and all the bells and whistles can be had brand new for <$1000.

X2 for what 78Bird said here.

You really should consider a Miller 211 or another dual voltage welder. It's half the price of the Snappy you're considering and can work with 110v or 220v. You'll be able to weld at your house with 110v or anyplace with 110v, like your backyard, a buddy's house, etc. As your skills increase and you start to do larger projects like roll cages with heavier gauge metals then you can add a 220v line to your shop.

It would be a long time before you outgrow a dual voltage welder.

 

[signcrafter]

2100 dollars on sale! Way over priced.

This is kind of like wanting a new TV and not having the cash and going to a renta center and paying crazy interest just so you can have you item NOW. You want a millermatic 211, way better machine. Can run on 110 or 220 so when you do get 220 you can use that. They both can add spool guns for aluminum.

If you buy the snap on just because you have some credit all that credit is going to be wasted. Yes you will have a welder NOW but you will be paying a ton of interest on a way overpriced welder. Some things in life are worth waiting until you have cash to spend. Is it worth it to you to pay an extra 1000-2000(depending on interested) just to have a welder now? Or would it be better to save and pay cash and have that 1000 for other tools? You could buy a millermatic 211, spool gun, gas tank, wire, helmet, and a lot more for the price you are wanting to pay for that snap on!

 

[ncfh]

OMFG, really?!

$2k for a 140 amp welder?? And then another $2k for a cheesy spoolgun and TIG torch?? And all on credit no less!!

Wow, that's a TERRIBLE idea. Run. Run!

Just so you know, I spent less than that for a used Miller 251 and a new Miller Dynasty 200.

...

The only Snap On welder I've used, a friend's muscle MIG, was just fine. A little rough/messy on starts, but a perfectly functional MIG welder, yay. He doesn't use his much because the consumables cost a ton and thing is really big and heavy for what it is.

Snap On likes to tout a 100% duty cycle. But just like other brands, they're quoting 100% at 2/3rds of the machine's actual peak capacity. So you buy a "140amp, 100% duty cycle MIG welder" but the real rating at full tilt is only 60%. Jerks.

Systematics is the American company that builds them for Snap-On... http://www.800abcweld.com/

They are overbuilt, meaning they have a larger transformer than they are rated for. Which I'm sure helps with their duty cycle numbers, but the machines themselves are ancient designs.

Everyone else in the world is going inverter and Systematics is still wrapping copper on iron. Not a bad thing, but not as power efficent or as consistent as inverter based machines. You will get a higher peak output from an inverter versus transformer for the same power input. Inverters are also gentler on breakers and fuses. Things to keep in mind with 110v.

 

[gentz]

How about the Hobart handler?
http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler210/
I decided after all the reserach to wait and save up the cash....will get a complete set up for around 2k compared to the snap on. Thanks....let me know on the hobart handler 210 mvp vs the miller 211. Thanks.

 

[78Bird]

The Miller has Autoset and infinite voltage, where the Hobart has taps and no AS.

This isn't a huge deal IMO. It'll save you some $, while still being very good quality. You might need infinite voltage doing TIG or with exotic materials, but auto body and such it's not going to matter.

It's a lot more welder for your $ than the snappy. You can get it at Northern Tool for <$1K, and it uses Miller style consumables.

The spool gun for it is <$250 as well.

 

[signcrafter]

How about the Hobart handler?
http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler210/
I decided after all the reserach to wait and save up the cash....will get a complete set up for around 2k compared to the snap on. Thanks....let me know on the hobart handler 210 mvp vs the miller 211. Thanks.

Very smart decision! Spend that credit on something worth it like flare wrenches, pick set, gold torx sockets etc. Snap on has some things that are worth the mark up, some things like welders are not worth the inflated costs.

As for the hobart, I've never used one of these newer autoset machines. I have a miller XMT304 with a seperate wire feeder and spool gun. I used to have a hobart 140 and it was a good machine. I would have no problem with a hobart or miller. Like mentioned the miller has a few extra features like autoset. They both can run on 110 and 220. On 110 you won't get the full 210 amps.

 

[78Bird]

That goes without saying, the 110 option makes both machines function as a 140 class machine. On the Hobart, the top 3 power settings (out of 7) do not work on 110 power.

 

[kald]

No offense to anyone but I can't believe they actually sell these at this price. How they feel you can justify a 3-4X premium over Miller, Lincoln, ThermalArc or even Hobart is beyond me.

At least it has a copper wound transformer.

 

[padronanniversary]

The other issue to consider is consumables. You can get Miller, Hobart (which is part of the ITW group - Miller), and Lincoln just about anywhere, and for years they support their products. I would hate to have to wait for the Snap on guy to come for a tip or something.

 

[Major Ramifications]

There must be about 100 institutions that would LOVE to loan you money for a welder. They come in the form of credit cards, bank loans, etc. Many credit cards offer no interest on purchases for at least a year on occasion.

Even at the worst case, the interest you paid on a credit card wouldn't equal anywhere near how much the Snap-On folks are bending you over for. Their interest is built into the price of the products.

I am not endorsing using a credit card to buy a welder, but only saying that even credit card interest on a Hobart would be a much better deal than the Snap-On welder. Personally, I do not use credit cards, only debit. It keeps me from spending too much on cool stuff.

 

[bob15]

Snappy welders are generally overpriced. Made in Italy.

The COO of this welder is USA. Look on the first page, lower right corner.



The big plus of this welder is it has copper windings, unlike the big 3. Not saying i would buy it, but I like the copper winding.......

Talk the driver down and show what the competition has and what they sell their welders for.

 

[EvilWelder]

Have fun getting parts for the snappy machine when you toast it. Stick with Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, ESAB or Thermal Arc.

 

[Skyline]

>gentz

Are you sure there's no chance of getting 220v in your home? How about adding a single outlet somewhere near your panel? A 220v welder can do SO much more. And for the price of that Snappy machine, you can get a VERY good 220v welder (Miller). If you're willing to buy a used Miller welder, you'll have $1,000 left over to pay an electrician.

I have no 220v in my garage, but I made a heavy 100' long extension chord to reach to my house to use the dryer outlet. At least this gives me 30A of 220v. One day I will wire my garage for 220v, but this works for now.

 

[steel 35]

My favorite out of 7 at work is a Miller 211.
and I only own red.....

 

[OEXL16B]

How about the Hobart handler?

From Hobart:

When plugged into 115V power, the 210MVP utilizes 4 voltage settings (taps) and has 140 amps of weld output.

I don't like tapped voltage settings. I prefer a continuously variable voltage adjustment. That's my 2 cents.