Mounting Ikea Godmorgon Vanity to a wall, no studs?

[strnjss]

So after assembling the new vanity that's supposed to mount directly to the bathroom wall, we have run into a major issue. The mounting brackets are only 28.5 inches apart! If the wall studs are 16" on center how in the world does Ikea expect this thing to mount to the wall at 28.5"? The instructions simply say to mark the holes 28.5" apart and drill the screws in, but this makes no sense at all! What am I missing here? I know I could open up the wall and install cross bracing to support this, but I can't imagine that was the intended design. So my first question is, am I missing something? And if not what ways are there to mount this without tearing up the wall for cross bracing? I appreciate any ideas thanks!

Here's a photo of it, the 4 metal brackets in the back are what they expect it to mount with 28.5" apart:

 

[neonnblack]

Strip of 1x2 or so in the top and bottom and screw it in through there? not sure what it looks like inside so i couldnt be more helpful, considering this, pics of inside the vanity and the wall its going on will help more.

 

[strnjss]

Strip of 1x2 or so in the top and bottom and screw it in through there? not sure what it looks like inside so i couldnt be more helpful, considering this, pics of inside the vanity and the wall its going on will help more.

thanks, I edited my previous post and added a photo. We thought of doing what you suggested, but that would also mean a gap at the back of the vanity, which we would like to avoid if possible.

 

[MP&C]

Never drop anchors from McMaster Carr...


http://www.mcmaster.com/#never-drop-anchors/=imemxq

 

[kursplat]

thanks, I edited my previous post and added a photo. We thought of doing what you suggested, but that would also mean a gap at the back of the vanity, which we would like to avoid if possible.

looks like you could flip the brackets and create a recess

 

[strnjss]

Never drop anchors from McMaster Carr...


http://www.mcmaster.com/#never-drop-anchors/=imemxq

Thanks, have you used these before? It says on the site, they tested shear strength on concrete block, so any idea how they hold up in simple drywall? I can't imagine them holding all that weight for the long term.

It's a good option though thanks

 

[MP&C]

We use them all the time at work in installing various equipment. For straight drywall as in your case, I'd pull the cabinet up snug and stop. If you try wrenching these things like they are pulling against steel, sure, they will pull into the drywall and compromise the holding ability. "Torqued" correctly, we've had them support wall mounted video monitors where no other options existed.

 

[dwp99]

thanks, I edited my previous post and added a photo. We thought of doing what you suggested, but that would also mean a gap at the back of the vanity, which we would like to avoid if possible.

Not if you inset the 1x2 at the top and bottom flush with the back. glue and screw the 1x2 through the side of the vanity. Countersink the screws and use a plug to hide the screw heads. Then you can attach the vanity at 16" centers.

 

[BD1]

You could use 1/4'' toggle bolts .

 

[Mechsoldier]

Toggles from home depot. Nothing else necessary. I have air compressor hose reels with 50 ft air hoses that get unrolled and rolled up a few times a day and no issues for months.

 

[racingtadpole]

http://www.ramset.com.au/Product/Detail/90/WallMate-Plasterboard-Anchors

 

[jdcompman]

Toggles.

+1

 

[Big-Foot]

Toggle bolts might be good enough as the others have said - or you could go to IKEA and purchase what they call Suspension Rail and the sliding mounts that go inside the rail to bolt the cabinet up to. That way you would span at leat 1 stud. The 1x3 would probably be the right answer though.. Screw it in to the sides of the vanity and tie that to a stud with a couple of 2-1/2" screws.

Just finishing up building an IKEA kitchen and the cabinets are of surprising higher quality.. Saved a couple of thousand over the big box stores and double that on custom cabinet shops.

 

[BlindViper]

Or you could use the 1x4 idea and move the metal brackets 3/4" in and no gap.

 

[nutjob]

Use Togglers.

Get them at Home Depot, sold under the Hilti brand.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hardware-hardware-fasteners-fasteners-anchors-hollow-drywall/hilti-1-4-x-2-1-2-in-galvanized-flat-head-phillips-drive-toggle-bolt-with-pfh-screw-10-pack-136208.html

I think you can get them with a round head screw also.

I use these at work all the time to mount monitors and cabinets. 4 of them for that Vanity and you could use it for chin ups!

Kevin

 

[rlitman]

Use Togglers.

Get them at Home Depot, sold under the Hilti brand.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hardware-hardware-fasteners-fasteners-anchors-hollow-drywall/hilti-1-4-x-2-1-2-in-galvanized-flat-head-phillips-drive-toggle-bolt-with-pfh-screw-10-pack-136208.html

I think you can get them with a round head screw also.

I use these at work all the time to mount monitors and cabinets. 4 of them for that Vanity and you could use it for chin ups!

Kevin

Toggle bolts are old technology. THESE are the future. These things are great, and if you take the bolt out, they don't fall down the wall. They're also stronger than the toggle bolts that unfold with a spring.

The worm wallboard anchors from Ramset posted above are very good (and I use them in drywall all the time), but the togglers have more pullout resistance, even if the worms have almost (but not quite) as much shear resistance. Worms have their place, but not really for cabinets.

Oh, and if you do want to use one of those worm inserts, get the metal ones. The plastic ones ****. They break too easily getting inserted.
When using them, I like to punch a hole through the drywall with an awl to start them. They're supposed to self drill, but this makes it easier, and if I happen to hit a stud, I can just use a screw.

 

[Lotek]

This is a vanity with a sink? Attaching directly to drywall??? I think that for peace of mind, I would go with what Blindviper and others have suggested, use a couple of 1x4s across the back and attach it to the studs. Think of the amount of leverage a 90 pound kid standing on the edge to change a lightbulb could exert...

 

[jhelrey]

http://www.lowes.com/pd_118084-1033...&Ntt=wall+anchors&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo=

 

[srmofo]

This is a vanity with a sink? Attaching directly to drywall??? I think that for peace of mind, I would go with what Blindviper and others have suggested, use a couple of 1x4s across the back and attach it to the studs. Think of the amount of leverage a 90 pound kid standing on the edge to change a lightbulb could exert...

Thats my thought as well. I dont like hanging picture frames from drywall. I cant imagine a bathroom vanity staying there permanently

From the looks of those brackets you could probably even 180 them and cut the 1x4 a little shorter to clear the brackets on the sides. Then just use the brackets to secure the vanity to the 1x4

 

[strnjss]

So thanks everyone, the issue with the 1x2 is that we really don't want wood strips extending out the sides of the vanity where the vanity is smaller than the distance of the studs.

Right now we have one stud running down the center of where the vanity will be placed, we are going to screw it first to that center stud with the piece of wood built in to the vanity (it's just the Ikea mdf **** but so is what the brackets are mounted to). Then with the brackets, we are going to use these:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Driller-Toggle-3-16-in-x-3-in-Zinc-Plated-Driller-Toggles-2-Pack/202527114/

They claim to hold up to 100lbs (50lbs each I think?) so 4 of these.

So we will have one center stud and 4 anchors, hopefully that will be enough support, let me know what you guys think

 

[Big-Foot]

IKEA's MDF is not much different than the clad MDF that most other big-box cabinet makers are using these days...

One stud and a few anchors will be just fine.

 

[elguappo]

Do it right and open the wall, insert some 2x4 cross pieces between the studs with pocket screws, and hang this with peace of mind.

I am looking to install the same style vanity in the next few months, and won't bother with anything short of some solid wood inside the wall.

 

[wilcolater]

your solution will work great. I've installed many items with just the toggles on sound drywall and haven't had them come loose. I've also demoed many cabinets that will bust apart before the toggles pull out. no problem your doing the right thing.

 

[Burgerkong]

I have an Ikea Hemnes sink cabinet that I was having trouble with. Ended up using 4 toggles at each of the brackets as well as a couple wood screws through the rear wood brace into stud.

 

[DAUNA]

Hello strnjss,

Finally, how did you solve your problem? I have exactly the same problem.

Thank you, best regards.

Andre

 

[ilovevocs]

I built French cleats for all of my ikea cabinets. Wasn't much work and made mounting much simpler. Captured studs I could and used anchors for the rest.

 

[Fender1325]

Do it right and open the wall, insert some 2x4 cross pieces between the studs with pocket screws, and hang this with peace of mind.

I am looking to install the same style vanity in the next few months, and won't bother with anything short of some solid wood inside the wall.

EXACTLY. Thats the proper way to do it.

 

[cbones62]

I recently hung some cabinets and towel bars and had a similar problem.
In trying to figure out what to do, I stumbled across a product called "ghost stud" It worked very well and seems incredibly solid. The small ones are rated at 300 pounds, and the large one at 500 pounds. They have detailed information on their website, but basically you drill a 1 or 2 inch hole in the wall and insert this backer that is attached to a plug that screws it tight and level with the wall. I don't think I am explaining it well, but the info on the website is very detailed, and I have been very happy with the product. Not really cheap at about $2 -$4 each but I don't need to use them that often.
http://www.ghostud.com/

link fixed. Thanks, I typed it wrong the first time.

 

[white6589]

Try this:
http://www.ghostud.com/
to find ghost stud.