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zip95864

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Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
281
Location
Sacramento CA
I need a little help:

restoring this Wilton ShopKing and usually there is a retaining clip holding the screw in place, this one has a pin on each side. I couldnt figure out how to get it out, so I tried drilling it out. Broke my dang drill bit inside of the vise.

Any help?
 
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Lump

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Mar 16, 2009
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3,405
Location
Jamestown, Ohio
Ok, Jeff Moss, here ya' go! My Shop King vise was still sitting in the box leftover from my yard sale earlier this month, and easy to get to, and to photograph.

ViseShopKingLoRez1.jpg


The shot below shows that the hole is NOT centered...or at least not lined up with the seam line for the tip of the anvil. (The anvil is sort of an odd shape, so its not easy to figure out where the center is.)
ViseShopKingLoRez2.jpg


Next shot shows the hole with the "hardy" removed. I took this shot from a higher angle, hoping that you could better see that the hardy hole does not seem to be centered carefully:
ViseShopKingLoRez3.jpg


Hope these photos help!! :D:D:D
 

knagy389us

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Jul 17, 2008
Messages
83
Location
Wake Forest, NC
Finally got to bolt down my father's vise, which I've had for about 20 years but never had a decent work bench till now. I'd guess it's about 50 years old? Nothing like a good, heavy duty vise. Thought about painting it, but it looks kinda cool with all the years on it :)

621988_479198858756863_21729953_o.jpg
 

EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
Naaa. I wouldn't paint it either, it looks like it's been used but not abused. There is also no rust. Maybe just wipe down the bare metal areas with an oily rag.

You can get some o-rings, or I like to use the faucet washers to put on the handle ends so when it slides down you don't get that bang against the spindle nut.
 

knagy389us

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Jul 17, 2008
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Location
Wake Forest, NC
Great idea, thanks! Now to get my father's Craftsman #103 table saw from a friend who has been watching over it for just as many years.

Naaa. I wouldn't paint it either, it looks like it's been used but not abused. There is also no rust. Maybe just wipe down the bare metal areas with an oily rag.

You can get some o-rings, or I like to use the faucet washers to put on the handle ends so when it slides down you don't get that bang against the spindle nut.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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The Badlands
Naaa. I wouldn't paint it either, it looks like it's been used but not abused. There is also no rust. Maybe just wipe down the bare metal areas with an oily rag.

You can get some o-rings, or I like to use the faucet washers to put on the handle ends so when it slides down you don't get that bang against the spindle nut.

You meant hose washers, didn't you?
 

Outlawmws

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The Badlands
Lump, thanks for sharing. Makes more sense now. What would the "hardy" be used for?

On a "real" anvil for hot cutting: Place the part on the chisel, Hit it, flip over hit again and if done right it will part the metal right off.

That is actually a pritchel hole, a Hardy is square, but in this instance used the same way, and is far cheaper to manufacture.
 

EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
You meant hose washers, didn't you?

No, the faucet ones... I guess I should of clarified, the washers for the aerators is what fits nice I've found. I buy like a 6-pack of replacement aerators and they are the style that can fit the inside or outside thread. Most of the time I end up not using the spare washer they include with each aerator and I've been saving them simply because I can't throw anything away.

I'll snap a couple pics comparing the hose washers to the aerator ones and post them up in a bit. You can be the judge on what you think looks better. ;)
 

EOC_Jason

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Okay here are pictures as promised. The washers for the aerator are *slightly* smaller ID and noticeably smaller OD. They are also a little thicker and are black. I just think they look a little nicer than a hose washer, but both are equally functional. ;) The best part for me is I had no other use for them.
 

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redware

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Jul 31, 2012
Messages
103
Location
Middle America
This thread inspired me to stop lurking and join. There are some beautiful vices here! Some seriously talented and skilled people here sure know how to clean up American iron. I've been wanting a decent, American vise for a long time now and now's the time to start looking for an old Prentiss or Chas. Parker. Thanks for the inspiration.
 

zip95864

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
281
Location
Sacramento CA
I need a little help:

restoring this Wilton ShopKing and usually there is a retaining clip holding the screw in place, this one has a pin on each side. I couldnt figure out how to get it out, so I tried drilling it out. Broke my dang drill bit inside of the vise.

Any help?

photo.jpeg

Anyone got an idea on how I can get these pins out?
 
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toomanytoyzz

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May 11, 2012
Messages
1,571
Location
Malvern, PA
Finally got to bolt down my father's vise, which I've had for about 20 years but never had a decent work bench till now. I'd guess it's about 50 years old? Nothing like a good, heavy duty vise. Thought about painting it, but it looks kinda cool with all the years on it :)

621988_479198858756863_21729953_o.jpg

Is that a #975? If so I have the same one. Was that cotter pin an add on? I've never seen one with one. It's definitely a good idea. Just picked up a #973 the other day, and I need the swivel nut key. I'm particular to the Charles Parker vises.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,231
Location
The Badlands
Okay here are pictures as promised. The washers for the aerator are *slightly* smaller ID and noticeably smaller OD. They are also a little thicker and are black. I just think they look a little nicer than a hose washer, but both are equally functional. ;) The best part for me is I had no other use for them.

Got it. I'd call that an aerator washer, not a faucet washer. To most plumbing people a "faucet washer" is the flat or conical washer that goes on the valve face of old "standard" faucets, (Not the single handle or tricked out O rings faucets commonly used today. Hose bibbs still use the std faucet washer.)
 

knagy389us

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Jul 17, 2008
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83
Location
Wake Forest, NC
Is that a #975? If so I have the same one. Was that cotter pin an add on? I've never seen one with one. It's definitely a good idea. Just picked up a #973 the other day, and I need the swivel nut key. I'm particular to the Charles Parker vises.

It is a 203. 3.5" jaw width, 5.5" max opening. Dont know about the pin, I didnt add it so my Dad maybe did? I remember using it as a kid. Didnt realize it's circa 1923-29. Cool.
 

dephiants

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Jul 28, 2012
Messages
5
What do you want to know about them? They're just like the other Reeds only really big and hard to find. Powdercoating would probably look great unless it starts chipping.

Post up some pics.

to start I read banjos informative vise info and the 200 series pertains to the swivel and the 8 is its jaw width but what bout the R ? why is there no info anywhere? it works and has been used! i will post pics
 

toomanytoyzz

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May 11, 2012
Messages
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Location
Malvern, PA
It is a 203. 3.5" jaw width, 5.5" max opening. Dont know about the pin, I didnt add it so my Dad maybe did? I remember using it as a kid. Didnt realize it's circa 1923-29. Cool.

Ok. The 975 I have has 5" jaws. The pin miht have been added. I think it had a snap ring over top to keep the wrench from popping off.
 

zoomieport

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Nov 21, 2011
Messages
1,803
Location
The Mall City
I have some 4" Parker parts (#104), if you need them, send me an PM...

2 jaw inserts
main screw
main nut
dynamic jaw
etc...

It was a buddy's, on a stand, tipped over and cracked the body, the rest was unharmed... rest it's soul!

ZOOM
 

bl00

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Oct 6, 2006
Messages
1,014
Location
Chantilly, Virginia
to start I read banjos informative vise info and the 200 series pertains to the swivel and the 8 is its jaw width but what bout the R ? why is there no info anywhere? it works and has been used! i will post pics

Scroll through the pictures on Dayid's site. I'm going to speculate that the R stood for revision and was when they changed to the shape with the oil holes in the front. The R was used on all the different sizes and wasn't specific to the 208R.
 

dayid

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Jun 13, 2010
Messages
84
I just checked the model on my Chas Parker, it's a 203. I found a website that dates this model 1923 - 1929. Is my vise really that old?

here's the site with alot of info

Parker vise info
Make sure to check out my note about "Years of Production" and how the information as reported in those tables can be misleading. Yours may very well be that old - or older - or newer. I mostly have been trusting what years/ranges I can find in catalogs and brochures.


Scroll through the pictures on Dayid's site. I'm going to speculate that the R stood for revision and was when they changed to the shape with the oil holes in the front. The R was used on all the different sizes and wasn't specific to the 208R.
Wow, I've never heard/noticed the oiling ports on the R's vs prior! It does appear to be a greatly undocumented thing out there - but that's the best/most sensible explanation I've heard yet.:thumbup:
 

bigcaddy

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Jan 17, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
Back in post #77, jamesemery728 posted these small vices.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=41427&d=1254931817

I thought I would add my version.

P8014742Large.jpg


Is the vise on the left, marked G. Bolan, Germany on the stationary jaw? I have the identical vise with the unusual circular anvil sitting on my bench, awaiting repairs.

Does your have any finish left? Mine appears to have been nickel plated but hard to say because so much has been worn away.
 

Harvey Melvin Richards

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Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Messages
406
Is the vise on the left, marked G. Bolan, Germany on the stationary jaw? I have the identical vise with the unusual circular anvil sitting on my bench, awaiting repairs.

Does your have any finish left? Mine appears to have been nickel plated but hard to say because so much has been worn away.

It does say Bolan, I'm not sure where, or if there is a COO on it. There is no finish, or very minimal. I will have take a closer look at it tomorrow.

What needs repair on yours? I was wondering if mine was missing something with the dovetails on the casting around the front washer. The previously posted one looks similar though.
 

Cameronl

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Nov 5, 2009
Messages
572
Location
Connecticut
1004372c.jpg


My Reed 203 1/2. Came with the house when I purchased it about 6 years ago. It was mounted in the basement, but I have more use for it in the garage, so I finally mounted it there. It's thick with paint. I'll have to restore it one day.

I'm surprised how bent the handle is.
 

bigcaddy

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Jan 17, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
It does say Bolan, I'm not sure where, or if there is a COO on it. There is no finish, or very minimal. I will have take a closer look at it tomorrow.

What needs repair on yours? I was wondering if mine was missing something with the dovetails on the casting around the front washer. The previously posted one looks similar though.


It should be stamped on the top of the jaw tower on the stationary jaw. I can actually see the stamp in the picture. It should read G. Bolan, Germany.

The repair on mine is a rather serious job. There is a crack in the moving jaw, starting at the deepest part of the dovetail and follows along the sliding surface. It looks as if somebody tried to pry the rear jaw off. Nothing broke completely through so all i have to do is grind the crack out, clamp it tight, fill it with braise and clean out all spillover. Easy, right?:D
 

bigcaddy

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Jan 17, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
1004372c.jpg


My Reed 203 1/2. Came with the house when I purchased it about 6 years ago. It was mounted in the basement, but I have more use for it in the garage, so I finally mounted it there. It's thick with paint. I'll have to restore it one day.

I'm surprised how bent the handle is.

Did the previous owner of your house happen to be Lou Ferrigno? That thing looks like a wet noodle.
 

nine4gmc

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Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
14,357
Location
Dallas
how do I get the center pin out of the dynamic jaw inserts of a Columbian 604? I drove the ouside pics out from the bottom, can't get that center one out.
 
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Harvey Melvin Richards

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Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Messages
406
It should be stamped on the top of the jaw tower on the stationary jaw. I can actually see the stamp in the picture. It should read G. Bolan, Germany.

The repair on mine is a rather serious job. There is a crack in the moving jaw, starting at the deepest part of the dovetail and follows along the sliding surface. It looks as if somebody tried to pry the rear jaw off. Nothing broke completely through so all i have to do is grind the crack out, clamp it tight, fill it with braise and clean out all spillover. Easy, right?:D

I looked at it and it says "G. BOLEY" not Bolan, on top of the stationary (front) jaw. On the dynamic it says "MADE IN GERMANY"

Mine has about 1/2" of the dovetail on the stationary broken.
 
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