Ok, I think it's wrong, so once again I'll ask.
If 15A receptacles will do everything a 20A receptacle will do, then why do they bother selling 20A receptacles?
Originally, they were designed so that you wouldn't accidentally plug a 20a device into a 15a circuit, which best case scenario would blow the breaker/fuse/etc. In addition, back when there were fuses, if people kept blowing a fuse many would just put a bigger fuse in instead - bad idea! In addition, a breaker will pass overcurrent for a period of time. It also prevents you from putting a 20a space heater on a 100' 16-gauge extension cord, since no <12ga extension cord would have that plug.
For the shop, it's good to wire with #12 and breaker for 20a as you often run larger tools which often consume the power. A few devices also require 20a still - 120v welders at full output, for example.
I've never owned a piece of equipment with a 20amp plug, but when I wire a 20a receptacle circuit I almost always use 20a receptacles. Reason being, it is much easier to not accidentally buy the lowest-quality receptacles at the stores when you go up to 20a... and the price difference is slim to none between the two. 20a gets you a quality back-wired screw receptacle.
IEC connectors (the plugs that computer power supplies, LCD/Plasma TVs, etc. typically use) also come in 15a and 20a variants which are very different, and a 15a plug cannot go into a 20a receptacle. What sucked though is that they are used for both 120v and 240v in US datacenters, so power supplies which are not auto-switching go up in smoke if you accidentally plug one in to 240v with the switch set to 120. Ask me how I know
