Recommend a tie rod press/puller

[theoldwizard1]

For outer tie rod, I just remove the wheel, remove the cotter pin and castle nut, re-install the castle nut upside down just until it is flush with to top of the stud and get out my BFH ! This does not work for inner tie rods on non rack and pinion steering as there is not enough room to swing the BFH.

I tried using an OTC 6296 but the jaws were spreading and I did not want to break it. I got it to go with a MAPP gas torch and a pickle fork, but I would still like some kind of press/puller.

What do you professional use if your shop does not allow open flame ?

 

[joedodge]

were aloud open flame in our shop but its kind of a time killer. the otc tool you sited works quite well. the otc 7503 and otc 7315 work great for the job also.

 

[greasemonkey44]

http://compare.ebay.com/like/320939729983?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
this is what i use 90% of the time
i have used it dozens of times, and it always pops the tierod ends loose
i even used it a few times on ball joints

 

[jhelrey]

Use a hammer and pound next to the stud on the arm itself. Not the rod, but the arm.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Use a hammer and pound next to the stud on the arm itself. Not the rod, but the arm.

Tried that. After being in place for 14 years it was a no go.

 

[Provincial]

I just changed a steering rod end (like a tie rod end) on a squirt-boom forklift. I reversed the nut on the stud and jacked the wheel off the ground using the nut as the lift point. I had to use a 12 lb. sledge on the steering knuckle to pop the stud loose. Sometimes they have grown together!

 

[purplezr2]

Tried that. After being in place for 14 years it was a no go.

Did you load it first with the press, then tap, never seen it fail.

 

[Hetman]

Or go hydro :E !

 

[Wrench 2201]

If the knuckle design permits it I use my air hammer with the hammer bit and attack the outside of the knuckle by the tapered hole for the stud. Other times if there is room hit it with two hammers from opposing directions at the same time. I have also loaded it up with a tie-rod press and then hit with a hammer or pried with a pry bar.
My favorite is when replacing the tie-rod, thats when I get to use my pickle fork. I can't say that without thinking of ****** marys.

 

[Skyline]

http://www.toolsource.com/endball-joint-puller-p-110131.html

I've used one of these for many years. Works every time, and never damages the rubber boot.

 

[glenmore]

I have this kit but if IIRC it was only about $90 when I bought it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-Front-End-Service-Set-6295-/390449022169?hash=item5ae89344d9&vxp=mtr

There always seems to be something in the way so having an assortment of pullers is really handy.

 

[Fedwrench]

This is my favorite one that has served me well for a number of years.

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7503.aspx

No beating, no heat, no boot damage, pops them free quickly. It's even US made.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Did you load it first with the press, then tap, never seen it fail.

Tap HELL ! BFH and no go !

 

[dsmnickk90]

I have this kit but if IIRC it was only about $90 when I bought it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-Front-End-Service-Set-6295-/390449022169?hash=item5ae89344d9&vxp=mtr

There always seems to be something in the way so having an assortment of pullers is really handy.

Its $107 on tooltopia. OTC stuff has gone up a lot in the past few months

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Its $107 on tooltopia. OTC stuff has gone up a lot in the past few months

Save some coin and just get the Harbor Freight set; exact same setup; probably from same Chinese factory....

 

[enrare]

Save some coin and just get the Harbor Freight set; exact same setup; probably from same Chinese factory....

I was wondering the same. I have been looking off and on at these kits from several different brands and they all look the same just in different color blown-molded cases and of coarse varying prices with OTC usually the most expensive. Anyone know if the current OTC kit is made in USA or is it imported like all the rest?

 

[03protege]

I am actually in the process of doing this right now and I am having a hard time. I was able to rent the tool you posted in the op and found I was having a lot of trouble with the Bolt slipping off of the tie rod while being tightened.

Check out this video and you will notice the tool he is using actually has a cup on the end of the bolt that would prevent this from happening. I am seeking what he has now.

EDIT: it looks like the OTC kit listed above has it.

 

[03protege]

http://www.tooltopia.com/tool-aid-61900.aspx

I just used this style and it worked like a charm.

 

[dsmnickk90]

Its $107 on tooltopia. OTC stuff has gone up a lot in the past few months

Its not just OTC go look at IR prices all their guns just went up $10+

 

[1953mercury]

Use a hammer and pound next to the stud on the arm itself. Not the rod, but the arm.

X2, don't be shy with the hammer. Mike

 

[03protege]

X2, don't be shy with the hammer. Mike

What size hammer do you recommend for this task? Maybe I wasn't using a large enough hammer.

 

[royesses]

I use two hammers. A 2 or 3 lb to back up one side of the knuckle and a 2 lb to whack the other side of the knuckle. This distorts the knuckle bore just enough to break the interference fit. It usually only takes one whack to drop the tie rod.

 

[signcrafter]

I am actually in the process of doing this right now and I am having a hard time. I was able to rent the tool you posted in the op and found I was having a lot of trouble with the Bolt slipping off of the tie rod while being tightened.

Check out this video and you will notice the tool he is using actually has a cup on the end of the bolt that would prevent this from happening. I am seeking what he has now.

EDIT: it looks like the OTC kit listed above has it.

This is the one I use and works good. It's the OTC 7503 puller.

Hitting the knuckle with a BFH works but I don't like wailing on something when there really isn't a need to.

 

[signcrafter]

What size hammer do you recommend for this task? Maybe I wasn't using a large enough hammer.

It takes a decent sized hammer depending on how stuck it is and a good solid whack. You are "shocking" the knuckle, or in other words deforming it for a second to release the tie rod. I've done this before I had my pullers but I don't do it anymore. I'm not sure if there is any risk of damage from smacking the knuckle or not but to me it's just not a good practice, especially when a puller works so good.

 

[mikebramel]

Save some coin and just get the Harbor Freight set; exact same setup; probably from same Chinese factory....

The powerbuilt set I have is made in Taiwan. Bought it from Advance Auto after my Harbor Freight set stripped out after a couple pulls

 

[Greatbear]

I use either a tierod "rattler" or a hammer head bit in an air chisel/hammer for those times I can't get any room to reef on drag links, knuckles, etc.

 

[skulldrinker]

I am actually in the process of doing this right now and I am having a hard time. I was able to rent the tool you posted in the op and found I was having a lot of trouble with the Bolt slipping off of the tie rod while being tightened.

Check out this video and you will notice the tool he is using actually has a cup on the end of the bolt that would prevent this from happening. I am seeking what he has now.

EDIT: it looks like the OTC kit listed above has it.

I just check my HF set and it has the same tool and it also has a cupped end.

 

[acdc73]

This is the one I use and works good. It's the OTC 7503 puller.

Hitting the knuckle with a BFH works but I don't like wailing on something when there really isn't a need to.

I've got one of those and it works great, I paid too much off the truck...

 

[Rezeppa]

If I can't get it with a hammer and a good whack I use a 2x4 I cut it to length then I put it under the tie rod and slowly let the hi-low or whatever I'm working on down and let the weight press the joint apart.