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44x48x16 shop, poolhouse, bball court Garage

93L#3008

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Feb 12, 2010
Messages
201
Finally getting around to share my progress on my 48x44x16 garage, shop, poolhouse, basketball court. I wanted to build a garage the entire family could enjoy. I started putting plans together over a year ago. With the help of GJ and the many members that were kind enough to share their build, I think I have thought of nearly everything with hopes I wouldn’t have any regrets or keep them to a minimum.
I went with 16’ sidewalls with a scissor truss 2.5 pitch to get nearly 21’ of peak center height. I originally had planned for 12’ ceiling for a lift. For the value, I decided to go 16’ that will allow me to build a 20x30 loft at some point. Also the extra ceiling height will keep me from spending 7k on a concrete driveway I was going to add for a basketball court. I live in Indiana so an indoor basketball court will allow us to play basketball an additional 4 months. The gable end facing the pool I added a 24x16 porch with an outdoor fireplace. Also plan to build in a grill/bar area in the near future.
Since the building was so close to the house we used a combination of siding and veneer stone to help dress up a nearly square box that is 26’ tall. Put arches in the large 18x12 commercial doors and used a wall mount commercial opener with raised tracks.
We decided we were going to convert the 3 car attached garage 32x24 into a family room with theatre seating and exercise/weight room. I left one bay 12x10 for storage, refrigerator and deep freeze. We also added window overlooking pool and garage and glass 32” doors. Needless to say we’ve been busy. We used stone on the exterior and to match the garage and tie the two buildings together. Installed attic ladder and added a 10’x24’ subfloor for storage. Got most electrical done and plan to finish repairing drywall and blow insulation next week. So this is really 2 threads in one. I’ll be adding pics as I find time to upload.

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93L#3008

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Please tell me the ladder is attached to the bobcat bucket somehow.

Yes, It is bolted to the bucket. They've done other things I wouldn't put myself at risk of doing though. Crawl up framing 25' with a chainsaw in hand to cut off posts....:wtf:
 
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93L#3008

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Feb 12, 2010
Messages
201
Some pics of the attached garage window install. You can see where we added the stone below. This was originally concrete block. I had made some elevation changes last minute to garage because of the "ramp" I would have had and all the dirt I would have had to push to make it work.
garage3002-1.jpg

garage3008.jpg


Kids working Hard.

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Radiant Floor Heat
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colt zantop

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Apr 20, 2006
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Location
michigan
very nice build....keep those pics coming! I really like the stone on the house....it will look good on the barn...
 
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93L#3008

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Messages
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93L#3008

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Feb 12, 2010
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Its getting close to being done. Lights, #2 Bright white ceiling, blown insulation and then off to finish drywall in attached garage. Waiting on HVAC ducts to be cut into the new room with cold air return.

Quick question.... I'm insulating the walls and will be using OSB to cover. The best way I can think is to run 2x4 across just inside the posts 24" center and run parallel with the floor. Also thinking about putting up plastic and blowing insulation behind it from the top and then put on wall board vs the R19 batt insulation. Any thoughts of best approach?
 
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93L#3008

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I like the outdoor fireplace. Will that become an outdoor entertaining area ?

Yes. We will likely live out there in the fall. I thought about screening it in but I"ve already got a screened in porch off the back of house and wanted to leave this more open. I plan to frame up a grill area and sink when i get the attached garage complete. I'm doing most that I can on both builds but working FT limits what you can realistically do.
 

cderalow

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Nov 13, 2011
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Location
Potomac, MD
I'll totally ignore the GIANT safety violation that is the first picture.

seriously, safety is common sense. does it seem smart or safe to use a metal scaffold plank atop a bucket loader?
 
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cgall

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Jun 6, 2012
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Cincinnati, OH
I wouldn't worry at all about those framers up there, GC has his own insurance, let him be the safety police.
 

CrewCabGuy

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Jan 25, 2012
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10
I'll totally ignore the GIANT safety violation that is the first picture.

seriously, safety is common sense. does it seem smart or safe to use a metal scaffold plank atop a bucket loader?

NOT using common sense would be standing out on the end without a guy on the other end. LOL:dunno:
 

HOTFR8

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Mar 2, 2007
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Castlemaine, Victoria. The Hot Rod Centre of Austr
Yes. We will likely live out there in the fall. I thought about screening it in but I"ve already got a screened in porch off the back of house and wanted to leave this more open. I plan to frame up a grill area and sink when i get the attached garage complete. I'm doing most that I can on both builds but working FT limits what you can realistically do.

A great idea and I hope you share more as you progress. :thumbup:
 
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93L#3008

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Getting close to moving my 93' lightning back in the shop and finish painting it. It's been in primer and storage for over a year. I'll try and get some pics of it up soon.
 
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93L#3008

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Blowing insulation tomorrow and finishing up some trim and building will be nearly complete. Still need to know if the best way to insulate walls is using batt insulation and 2x4 every 24" parallel to floor or staple up a good heavy plastic and blow insulation from the top. It would be nearly 8" thick in walls for good R Value. Any ideas??
 

JakeKohl

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Feb 23, 2012
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Location
Greenville, SC
Blowing insulation tomorrow and finishing up some trim and building will be nearly complete. Still need to know if the best way to insulate walls is using batt insulation and 2x4 every 24" parallel to floor or staple up a good heavy plastic and blow insulation from the top. It would be nearly 8" thick in walls for good R Value. Any ideas??

Blown in insulation is almost always better from a coverage and insulation standpoint. In my garage ceiling (the 2nd floor floor), my insulation contractor stapled up a fiberglass mesh, cut slits in it, and blew in the insulation mostly filling the cavity.


DSC_3474 by Team Seacats, on Flickr

EDIT: but I see you are talking about the walls...I think you want to be careful about adding a second vapor barrier on the inside of the wall. You might trap moisture between the outside vapor barrier and the inside one.

I'm a huge believer in blown-in cellulose insulation. It is mostly recycled paper that has a boric acid added (fire retardant and bug resistance) and corn starch. They blow it into the wall cavity damp and it sticks to the wood and itself. They then come back and shave it even with the studs. It then dries to a firm padded consistency - but you do need to allow a couple of days for it to dry before you start hanging sheetrock over it.

The air resistance qualities are almost that of open cell foam but it's only slightly more expensive than fiberglass batt insulation. Unlike bat insulation, the blowing in process packs insulation behind every box and into every nook and cranny. I have a friend who builds multi-million $ homes and he turned me on to it. I know it's not terribly scientific, but the ground and second floor of my new building, without any HVAC running, constantly stays about 4 degrees cooler than outside ambient temperature.


DSC_3473 by Team Seacats, on Flickr


DSC_3479 by Team Seacats, on Flickr

PS - I would make sure they close the doors when they blow it in....it's dusty and goes everywhere. That pool filter might not be too happy with it!
 
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93L#3008

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Feb 12, 2010
Messages
201
Blown in insulation is almost always better from a coverage and insulation standpoint. In my garage ceiling (the 2nd floor floor), my insulation contractor stapled up a fiberglass mesh, cut slits in it, and blew in the insulation mostly filling the cavity.


DSC_3474 by Team Seacats, on Flickr

EDIT: but I see you are talking about the walls...I think you want to be careful about adding a second vapor barrier on the inside of the wall. You might trap moisture between the outside vapor barrier and the inside one.

I'm a huge believer in blown-in cellulose insulation. It is mostly recycled paper that has a boric acid added (fire retardant and bug resistance) and corn starch. They blow it into the wall cavity damp and it sticks to the wood and itself. They then come back and shave it even with the studs. It then dries to a firm padded consistency - but you do need to allow a couple of days for it to dry before you start hanging sheetrock over it.

The air resistance qualities are almost that of open cell foam but it's only slightly more expensive than fiberglass batt insulation. Unlike bat insulation, the blowing in process packs insulation behind every box and into every nook and cranny. I have a friend who builds multi-million $ homes and he turned me on to it. I know it's not terribly scientific, but the ground and second floor of my new building, without any HVAC running, constantly stays about 4 degrees cooler than outside ambient temperature.


DSC_3473 by Team Seacats, on Flickr


DSC_3479 by Team Seacats, on Flickr

PS - I would make sure they close the doors when they blow it in....it's dusty and goes everywhere. That pool filter might not be too happy with it!

Good points... I think I will get OSB walls up and blow in behind them from the top and leave out the vapor barrier. Ive got the housewrap covering the outside OSB.
 

Dr Dave

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Apr 29, 2012
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44
Location
iowa
Great garage, house wrap breaths, you should use a vapor barrior on the inside to keep the insulation dry. The spray on cellulose is all my contractor freind uses, said it out performs everything but spray on foam.
 
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93L#3008

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Insulation was blown in today R38.... Both the attached garage and the new building. Garage is done for now. I will rent a bobcat and backfill around garage and get it landscaped before I start finishing the walls on the inside. Hope to get lots of pics up tomorrow.
 
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93L#3008

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Finish up water lines in the morning.... Finished landscaping this weekend and now I will slowly start framing up the inside walls. gonna do all that I can reach from below with a ladder safely then rent a scissor lift. More pics coming and some night pics too
 
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93L#3008

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Finishing up attached garage conversion to family room has taken longer than I thought. Plus ive laid down some sod and taken advantage of nice weather to get landscape and some yard work done. Just given me time to think about adding loft in the back of my garage. 20x48 across back or 42x24 on one side. anything I should know or think about? Got a guy coming out tomorrow to see what would be best as far as floor joist options. Trying to get by with single post and little floor restrictions. Any recommendations?
 

scuba0459

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Mar 27, 2010
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114
Location
The Fundy shore off Nova Scotia
Speaking about insulation. I did my garage/man cave with blown in cellulose and it is more comfortable than our house. Living where I do the winters can be quite cold. Last winter my in floor how water heat was shut off for about 36 hours. The temperature outside was around 0F and the building only lost about 10 degrees. I do have 7" of concrete over 6" of styrofoam so I do not loose much heat thru the floor.
 
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93L#3008

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Drywall almost finished in attached garage.... Fireplace and gas is hooked up. Need to frame out hearth, paint and trim after drywall is complete. Also starting to frame up interior walls of new garage. scissor lift will come in handy and will rent it for a weekend.... Picked up a used bostich framing nailer that will save some time.
 

Dillithium

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Dec 14, 2011
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151
Just out of curiosity, whereabouts in Indiana are you? Did you not have to deal with any permits or zoning with a building that big/high?
 
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93L#3008

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Just out of curiosity, whereabouts in Indiana are you? Did you not have to deal with any permits or zoning with a building that big/high?

Southern Indiana... No permits required.... not in city limits and county is lenient on anything you do on your own property. Peek of roof is 26'. At first i thought it was going to look out of place with the house. The arched doors, siding and stonework really made a difference.
 
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93L#3008

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OSB or Drywall?? Framing out inside and undecided on what i should do. OSB would be more durable... really 50/50 on this not leaning one way or the other.
 

hoopsnut

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Mar 25, 2012
Messages
33
Man that is one nice setup, got one question tho' your big enough for a bowling alley where is it.?
 
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