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The VISES of Garage Journal

J HAV

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262
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Houston, TX
HAAA HAAA HAAA!! Man... I tried to figure out how that could happen and just can't figure it out?? I like the "manure" theory lol. Btw... I forgot to mention earlier. I drilled out the hole for the original handle from 5/8 to a new size to fit a 3/4 handle ( Tim Allen Grunts ) :)
 
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EOC_Jason

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Jun 25, 2012
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Bentonville, AR
I bought this Columbian 604 at "retail" on ebay. $85 BIN plus $40 for shipping.
The *only negative* part about this vise is the jaws are smooth (not worn smooth, they came like that). Seems this is much less desirable. I looked at replacement jaws but they are almost $100! WTF? So replacing them is out. I asked on here about jaw caps but surprisingly no one responded, so looks like I'll have to experiment myself.

Is THIS the vise you bought? lol... I'm pretty sure it is because I remember seeing it on eBay too... ;)

It certainly looked like a nice vise, I was very tempted myself to buy but I'm trying to get something 5" or larger.

If you can remover the jaws you can probably get a machine shop to mill you some serrations pretty cheap, they might even just set you up on a bridgeport and let you do it yourself. Otherwise depending on what you plan on using it for, the Lisle Aluminum Jaw Pads are great for $11. Click on "See all 6 customer images" and the last one is my Ridgid holding a socket. :rocker:

eBay has changed their fee structure a lot over the past year. They don't seem to nickel and dime as much, like you can list all the pictures you want for free (I guess all the free image hosting sites forced their hand on that), they just decided to take a bigger slice of the final auction value. Basically eBay takes 9% of the final price, plus if you pay with PayPal the person takes another 3% hit from that... All told it's ~12%... So if your profit margin is slim you have to be very careful or you could end up loosing money real quick.
 

EOC_Jason

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I "Rescued" a Chas Parker 954 the other night for $20 bucks. It was a nice tight functioning vise BUT..... The front of the tightening screw where the handle goes looked like chewed up bubble gum. So I figured I would try to bring this beast back up to par with what I called a "Nose Job" LOL. So here's how it turned out....

Very nice, I would of never believe how bad of shape it was "before" if you didn't post the pic of it. ;)
 

SweetD

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Feb 8, 2010
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Rhode Island
The *only negative* part about this vise is the jaws are smooth (not worn smooth, they came like that). Seems this is much less desirable.

I used to think that too, but now after owning both styles, I don't necessarily agree with you on that. Smooth jaws are nice in that they don't mark up the workpiece. I think you can still "get a good grip" on the workpiece in almost any situation with smooth-faced jaws.

Nice vise!

Dave
 

J HAV

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Messages
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Houston, TX
Very nice, I would of never believe how bad of shape it was "before" if you didn't post the pic of it. ;)

Thanks, yeah I just made it into a little salvage project. It turned out a lot better than I expected. Now I should get a 100 more years out of it lol. I might sell it too.. Haven't made up my mind yet.
 

Outlawmws

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I "Rescued" a Chas Parker 954 the other night for $20 bucks. It was a nice tight functioning vise BUT..... The front of the tightening screw where the handle goes looked like chewed up bubble gum. So I figured I would try to bring this beast back up to par with what I called a "Nose Job" LOL. So here's how it turned out....
First I cut off the bent up handle. You could then see how badly "Chewed Up" it was in the close up. I then took it to my friends machine shop. I threw it on the lathe and tried to get at least 75 to 80% clean up before welding it up. I wanted to keep as much original meat as I could. You can see what it looked like after welding and final machining. Then the mock install on the painted vise. I think it turned out pretty good. Let me know what you guys think. This was just something I did because I have a lot of free time on my hands and had the resources to do it. I usually try to find better condition vises, but this one was in really nice condition OTHER than this one flaw :eek: I hope you guys like it. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

Nice clean fix up job, but I don't think that is the original screw to that vise! Parker's have the "Parker horse collar" and the screw head has a square groove for it to control the screw from pulling out. I'm guessing yours had a collar inside with a set screw, or a C clip?

So I'm guessing someone busted the original screw had another (Broken) vise dumped in a muddy scrap pile, and salvaged the screw and got lucky that the threads were the same or possibly moved the nut over to the Parker as well? :dunno:
 

Outlawmws

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Seattle area folks, here's an interesting 185# Prentiss:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/3240586969.html

A little rich for my blood, but nice shape and an interesting slide.

Cheers,
David

:wtf:
no cracks, breaks, or old repairs.

I think that slide was replaced with some channel! :eyecrazy:

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J HAV

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Location
Houston, TX
Outlaw- I think your right... When I looked up pics of some other 954's the handles looked different than mine. I kinda thought the same thing. Makes sense how it was the only badly weathered part of the vise. So it's now a "Frankenstein" vise lol...
 

J HAV

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Houston, TX
Outlaw- the "Horse Coller" is the part that says PARKER and retains the screw right!? I have that... It's just not in the pic, sorry.
 

Outlawmws

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I used to think that too, but now after owning both styles, I don't necessarily agree with you on that. Smooth jaws are nice in that they don't mark up the workpiece. I think you can still "get a good grip" on the workpiece in almost any situation with smooth-faced jaws.

Nice vise!

Dave

I agree, there are really three levels: Smooth, then fine line serrations to minimize damage to the gripped part(Parker 974, 974-1/2, Reed 104-1/2) and the really aggressive serrations (Wilton and my Reed 403-1/2), which can tear up a part pretty good.

Soft jaws are another option for better grip, as it will deform without damaging the part, and still grip well.
 

Outlawmws

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Outlaw- the "Horse Coller" is the part that says PARKER and retains the screw right!? I have that... It's just not in the pic, sorry.

Yep, but my point is still valid, unless Parker changed the shape of the "U that engages the screw head. My Parkers all have a square cut groove for it to fit into.
 

Outlawmws

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Outlaw- I think your right... When I looked up pics of some other 954's the handles looked different than mine. I kinda thought the same thing. Makes sense how it was the only badly weathered part of the vise. So it's now a "Frankenstein" vise lol...

Heh, you have a "Frankenstein" vise, and I had a "Zombie" vise! (Sold it a couple of weeks ago)
 

J HAV

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Jul 11, 2012
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Houston, TX
Jason- yeah it "did" but I had it welded up and recentered drilled it for the live center :) who knows at this point lol... It's now a BULL again:rocker:
 

J HAV

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Houston, TX
Outlaw- we now have a vise horror show lol. Our vise addictions are kind of a "HORROR" show in its self smh...
 

emeraldcoupe

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Jan 4, 2010
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Location
spring hill, florida
picked this up today for $20. it's got 4" jaws,swivel base, and weighs around 30-35 lbs. has a small piece missing on the slide. the only markings i see are made in england stamped on the side and under the swivel base. what is it?
IMG_2893.jpg

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pipsters

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Sep 1, 2010
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USA
You did well. Nice vise pipsters, great condition.

I have never seen serrated jaw overlays. You will just have to get yourself another with the serrated jaws so you can handle anything.

What about painting it hammertone verde green? Sunrise red?

I actually like the bare metal, but I'm guessing I'm going to have to keep it oiled a bit to keep the rust off.
 

bigcaddy

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Jan 17, 2012
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Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
Here is my latest find for the weekend. I passed on a larger japanese vise and was able to grab this little Wilton for a small price. I didn't measure the jaws but i think they were 2.5 inches

Its not marked USA so i'm guessing its imported. The only markings i could find were Wilton and 63L Its actually very well built and has a very smooth feel to it but the best part is the custom base.

The guy that owned the vise was a tinkerer and possibly built the custom base.

Its made of a solid steel plate that has 2 holes tapped for the vise to attach too. There is a center post with another steel bar fitted around it with a cut that will pinch shut when pressure is applied. Basically he made a custom swivel base that can elevate the vise up or down a few inches or rotate 360. Even the washers were cut on the lathe!
 

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bigcaddy

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Per Outlaws request, here are the pictures of the base. It looks fairly plain buts its actually somewhat complicated. The person that built this was pretty sharp

Does anybody recoginize this particular vise? I'm not too familiar with the imports so this one is kind of a mystery to me.
 

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1steve

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Mar 28, 2011
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275
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Tennessee
Per Outlaws request, here are the pictures of the base. It looks fairly plain buts its actually somewhat complicated. The person that built this was pretty sharp

Does anybody recoginize this particular vise? I'm not too familiar with the imports so this one is kind of a mystery to me.

COO is Czech Republic
 

bigcaddy

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So that slug goes into a bigger vise? Or is there more?


That's it. Maybe there was more but I didnt see anything else at the sale when I picked it up. I've got it pinched in my C1 right now and it holds really tight


COO is Czech Republic

At first it reminded me of the brand of vises made in Poland but I never knew Wilton had vises made in Czech Republic. I thought it was USA or china. Thanks for the info.
 

Outlawmws

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I'd have thought it had either a heavy base or a screw down base with some sort of cinch screw/lever. Seems sort a a waste to have a small vise clamped in a a bigger vise.
 

bigcaddy

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I'd have thought it had either a heavy base or a screw down base with some sort of cinch screw/lever. Seems sort a a waste to have a small vise clamped in a a bigger vise.

Nah, its just an excuse to have another vise laying around:beer:

I've already got clamped in my C1 and its holding one of my baby bullets, making a nice little Wilton tower
 

EOC_Jason

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Jun 25, 2012
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Bentonville, AR
Here's a made in the USA Craftsman that my dad has on his workbench at home. After all these years he finally decided enough was enough and it was time to clean things up. He took everything off so he could repaint the workbench and he brought his vise to me so I could "restore" it since he knew I enjoyed that kind of stuff... :bounce:

Mostly just coated in surface rust, crud caked in the jaws, and some paint overspray. For some reason the locking handle had a ton of rust on it while the main screw handle wasn't too bad.

I took it all apart and use the wire wheel on the bench grinder to clean off around the jaw areas and all the small parts. I also deburred the main screw nut since it has some burrs stuck to the ends where they cut the threads.

I polished the anvil area, then taped up everything I wanted to leave bare metal. Sandblasted it... Gave it 2-3 coats of Rustolium Sunrise Red (had on hand). Let dry overnight and reassembled this morning. Gave it a good oiling & grease where needed. Looks brand new used. :rocker:
 

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gilbo

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Feb 1, 2010
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716
Here's a made in the USA Craftsman that my dad has on his workbench at home. After all these years he finally decided enough was enough and it was time to clean things up. He took everything off so he could repaint the workbench and he brought his vise to me so I could "restore" it since he knew I enjoyed that kind of stuff... :bounce:

Mostly just coated in surface rust, crud caked in the jaws, and some paint overspray. For some reason the locking handle had a ton of rust on it while the main screw handle wasn't too bad.

I took it all apart and use the wire wheel on the bench grinder to clean off around the jaw areas and all the small parts. I also deburred the main screw nut since it has some burrs stuck to the ends where they cut the threads.

I polished the anvil area, then taped up everything I wanted to leave bare metal. Sandblasted it... Gave it 2-3 coats of Rustolium Sunrise Red (had on hand). Let dry overnight and reassembled this morning. Gave it a good oiling & grease where needed. Looks brand new used. :rocker:


nicely done, jayo, something about a red vise that simply make it look gorgeous after its restored, 1st vise i ever restored was a columbian c43, RED of course :D:D
 

FlyBy

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Joined
Feb 26, 2008
Messages
407
Location
NE Ohio
Last summer I cleaned out my grandfathers business, got a lot of great (and expensive) tools. He ran a forensic mechanical & electrical engineering company.

Took this nice Columbian 43 1/2 off of an old bench, didn't clean it off until today, nice straight main handle, but the swivel adjusting handle was bent pretty bad. Managed to take it off and get it almost perfectly straight. Not bad for a free vise!

photo_1.jpg


Before taking it apart and re-assembling it I noticed that the front jaw, when not fully closed can move back and forth about 1/4" and when tightening or loosening the vise jaws, the jaws themselves don't move until the handle is turned about 1 1/2 times. I took some pictures of inside where the retaining washer rides in the groove at the start of the shaft, and when I push in the main shaft from the front, this is how much room I have behind that washer:

photo_2.jpg


When the vise is open, and I push the jaw towards the body while holding the handle (not turning it), this is how much of a gap I have by the handle:

photo_3.jpg


It doesn't really bother me that much, just wondering if this is how it would normally be.

Also picked this up from the cleanout last year as well, a small PanaVise with hard rubber jaws, no model number on it, the jaws are about 2 1/2" wide and it stands about 7" tall. Pretty awesome for small detail work.

photo_4.jpg
 

bigcaddy

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Jan 17, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
Last summer I cleaned out my grandfathers business, got a lot of great (and expensive) tools. He ran a forensic mechanical & electrical engineering company.

Took this nice Columbian 43 1/2 off of an old bench, didn't clean it off until today, nice straight main handle, but the swivel adjusting handle was bent pretty bad. Managed to take it off and get it almost perfectly straight. Not bad for a free vise!

photo_1.jpg


Before taking it apart and re-assembling it I noticed that the front jaw, when not fully closed can move back and forth about 1/4" and when tightening or loosening the vise jaws, the jaws themselves don't move until the handle is turned about 1 1/2 times. I took some pictures of inside where the retaining washer rides in the groove at the start of the shaft, and when I push in the main shaft from the front, this is how much room I have behind that washer:

photo_2.jpg


When the vise is open, and I push the jaw towards the body while holding the handle (not turning it), this is how much of a gap I have by the handle:

photo_3.jpg


It doesn't really bother me that much, just wondering if this is how it would normally be.

Also picked this up from the cleanout last year as well, a small PanaVise with hard rubber jaws, no model number on it, the jaws are about 2 1/2" wide and it stands about 7" tall. Pretty awesome for small detail work.

photo_4.jpg


I'm in the process of refinishing a pair of Columbian D44 vises and there should not be any slop or gap between the handle and jaw. The split ring has probably jumped out of the groove and been pushed back some.

Work the ring back around the groove and get it clamped tight again. Its not the best retention system but it works for a light duty vise.
 

FlyBy

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Feb 26, 2008
Messages
407
Location
NE Ohio
I thought it might have come out, but if you look in the picture of the ring, it's still in the groove, it just has a lot of room between it and the head. Maybe just take it off and stack some other washers in there behind it?
 
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