Best terminal crimper?

[jrlp]

Hey guys,

I've been using different types of pliers and things for crimping terminals for car work etc.. and am tired of halfassing it.

What's the best crimper on the market right now? I've had my eyes on the SO PWCS7, it seems like it's a good unit, and I like how it has a gripping nose at the tip for fuses or pulling wire etc.. How well does it hold up?

I'd like the ability to crimp ~20-12 or maybe even 10 gauge. I'm also interested in a dedicated ratcheting crimper, and a separate stripper/cutter..

 

[CWP1616L]

I like the Ideal 30-429 for insulated and non insulated terminals.

 

[wornoutoldman]

OEM Crimps Baby!

http://www.delcity.net/store/Open-Barrel-Terminal-Ratchet-Crimp-Tool/p_714008

Also look around their site, lot's of great tools with even better prices.

 

[Tavy]

SO finally caught up. They sell a Blue-Point branded PWC48 that has done a nice job on heat-shrink terminals that I use round the clock, and has a set of jaws for open barrel crimps (weatherpack, metripack-style pins).
I have a pair of SO automatic strippers and a Klein multitool that's been in the drawer for years. Gets the job done fast.

 

[AZ_Catskinner]

SO 29CF - follows in the footsteps of the legendary T&B "Sta Kon" crimper.

 

[FlyBy]

I have a pair of Crimpex crimping pliers that I got from my grandfathers old company. Crimps yellow, blue and red barrel terminals perfectly, and even ones with heat shrink.

 

[LGMechanical]

Channellock 909

Made in USA. Under $30. Lifetime warranty. Suitable for pro use. What more do you want?

 

[Brownsfan]

I like the Snap On Pwsc7. They are very versitile and durable. I have had them for a couple years and use them daily. I install remote starters and do electrical repairs and i use the ALL DAY. When I need more cutting power I go the 29cf or as mentioned above the Channellock 909. The 909 is the best overall value of the ones I mentioned. I use the PWSC7 more because they are so versitile

 

[SantaAna12]

"Best crimper on the market"
Don't know that one..my guess would be AMP.....maybe an Aero guy can chime in on that. I read a thread once that load tested ratcheting crimpers and the AMP had the highest retention, but I went with the ANCOR Marine crimper due to budget and I didn't have an inspector to please. If you want a stronger crimp, you will want a ratcheting crimper. Guess it depends on your needs.

 

[LGMechanical]

"Best crimper on the market"
Don't know that one..my guess would be AMP.....maybe an Aero guy can chime in on that. I read a thread once that load tested ratcheting crimpers and the AMP had the highest retention, but I went with the ANCOR Marine crimper due to budget and I didn't have an inspector to please. If you want a stronger crimp, you will want a ratcheting crimper. Guess it depends on your needs.

For 20-10 gauge wire?

 

[SantaAna12]

yes:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI3EMK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

AMP....dont know the part number....and it is more than triple the price.

 

[firebox40dash5]

Channellock 909

Made in USA. Under $30. Lifetime warranty. Suitable for pro use. What more do you want?

I just got a pair of those for just under $20 on Amazon. Glad to hear another glowing review.

I finally bit the bullet after having to splice a VSS harness on a Saturn under the car, getting regular crimpers with the crimper behind the hinge into position sucked. I've been meaning to get good dedicated crimpers for a while, but that pushed me over the edge. I usually use automatic wire strippers anyway, so the cheap combo stripper/cutter/crimpers were a waste.

 

[garfunkle24]

Channellock 909

Made in USA. Under $30. Lifetime warranty. Suitable for pro use. What more do you want?

Channellock 909s are handy and popular but don't make a great crimp at all. After tug testing some stuff that my techs wired with 909s, I won't allow them to be used for crimping.

The only reliable crimp IMHO is one made with a ratcheting crimper.

 

[Vvmvbb]

I am partial to the Kliens

 

[5mall5nail5]

Depends on the pin. I have $75 delphi crimper and then at work we have a cabinet full of $1000 - 2000 Amp/Tyco crimpers. It depends on the crimp.

 

[garfunkle24]

I am partial to the Kliens

909s, kleins, T + B and Snappy are all the same design and are all equally unreliable. Yes they're handy, with the crimper in the jaw-opening, but that doesn't make them any good...

 

[Vvmvbb]

909s, kleins, T + B and Snappy are all the same design and are all equally unreliable. Yes they're handy, with the crimper in the jaw-opening, but that doesn't make them any good...

How good does it have to be? Never had a crimp fail yet.
But you do have to pay attention. If I were doing hundreds of them, I'd definitely use a ratchet since its hard to screw it up.

 

[garfunkle24]

How good does it have to be? Never had a crimp fail yet.
But you do have to pay attention. If I were doing hundreds of them, I'd definitely use a ratchet since its hard to screw it up.

It has to be good enough not to fail, that is all. LG recommended this type of crimper for pro use, which may mean thousands of crimps a day.

Some people have stronger or weaker hands, some terminals are more robust and harder to crimp than others etc. Non ratcheting crimpers are too easily effected by these variables.

Use whatever you want, but in my shop we use ratcheting crimpers for the above reasons.

 

[Vvmvbb]

---snip

Some people have stronger or weaker hands, some terminals are more robust and harder to crimp than others etc. Non ratcheting crimpers are too easily effected by these variables.

---snip

Summed up nicely, Gar.
If someone else's crimps reflected on me I would do the same thing as you.

 

[garfunkle24]

Summed up nicely, Gar.
If someone else's crimps reflected on me a would do the same thing as you.

You nailed it there also. I know I can trust myself to solder a connection or crimp it well with 909s, but I also have to worry about the work my techs are putting out.

 

[bob15]

Thomas and Betts WT111M. I use them to crimp the non-insulated connectors, I then solder and use heat shrink tubing. I very rarely use insulated connectors anymore. I prefer the solder connection.

http://www.tnb-canada.com/en/catalogues/online/industrial_mro/pdf/c1/Sta-Kon/Sections/17-Application%20Tools_en.pdf


Strippers: Ideal

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/IDEAL-Wire-Stripper-10F549


bob

 

[firebox40dash5]

Channellock 909s are handy and popular but don't make a great crimp at all. After tug testing some stuff that my techs wired with 909s, I won't allow them to be used for crimping.

The only reliable crimp IMHO is one made with a ratcheting crimper.

I've done plenty of "reliable" crimps (that you can't pull apart without breaking the wire) with side cutters on pliers and a Leatherman Wave, as long as they're split end connectors.

I haven't tried the 909s out yet, but I have borrowed Klein 1005s from an electrician buddy and found them to work just fine. Were they trying to crimp heavy lug terminals on or something?

 

[shampoop]

Channellock 909s are handy and popular but don't make a great crimp at all. After tug testing some stuff that my techs wired with 909s, I won't allow them to be used for crimping.

The only reliable crimp IMHO is one made with a ratcheting crimper.

Gonna have to call ******** on that one. I have one and it makes excellent crimps. Someone who's 85+ years old may not be strong enough to make a good crimp though I guess.

 

[garfunkle24]

I've done plenty of "reliable" crimps (that you can't pull apart without breaking the wire) with side cutters on pliers and a Leatherman Wave, as long as they're split end connectors.

I haven't tried the 909s out yet, but I have borrowed Klein 1005s from an electrician buddy and found them to work just fine. Were they trying to crimp heavy lug terminals on or something?

No, just insulated **** connectors, ring terminals etc. Also, I'm glad you will never work on anything (electrical or otherwise) if that is your standard of work.

How will those "reliable" crimps be holding up 10 years from now?
Are you sure when you used the side cutters you don't over-crimp and damage any strands?
Are you sure every one of those crimps was done done with the same clamping pressure and all were just as strong?
Sure you never started a crimp and didn't finish it because you got interrupted?
Sure you never broke through the insulation on an insulated terminal once?

Your crimps might be fine, but none of the above questions would even apply if you'd used a set of ratcheting crimpers.

 

[Rickster]

Thomas & Betts! I sell the **** out of every one I get...... Love'em!

 

[garfunkle24]

Gonna have to call ******** on that one. I have one and it makes excellent crimps. Someone who's 85+ years old may not be strong enough to make a good crimp though I guess.

and so they make ratcheting crimpers.....why?

There are lots of tools that can crush a terminal enough so it won't pull off a wire (a hammer, a vise...), that doesn't mean it is a good crimp.

For one thing, a good crimp should be as even and parallel across the terminal as possible, how is a simple plier style crimper going to achieve that?

 

[shampoop]

and so they make ratcheting crimpers.....why?

There are lots of tools that can crush a terminal enough so it won't pull off a wire (a hammer, a vise...), that doesn't mean it is a good crimp.

For one thing, a good crimp should be as even and parallel across the terminal as possible, how is a simple plier style crimper going to achieve that?

So you can use any sort of crazy crimp design you want. Also because they work with double crimp connectors that also have a crimp that goes onto the insulator for support. Also so that a trained monkey can do it right.

 

[jrlp]

Hmm, last time I dyno'd my hands in PT, I was pushing 140/125 right/left, so I don't think I'll have a problem with enough oomph to squeeze them hard enough. I've been known as having 'vise-like fingers/hands' but after 20-30 crimps with my current set, I get fatigued. And they aren't even crimps, I'm sure I'm shearing strands inside the connector. I usually put dielectric grease in the connectors, crimp them, then heatshrink over them.

[bold]In my earlier years, I had to redo my own wiring enough times, I don't risk it anymore.[/bold]

I'm willing to spend a hundred, maybe more on a good crimper. I've seen the AMP crimpers and although I'd kill for one, I don't think I'll ever have the need to purchase one (unless it was very cheap, in which case I'd jump on it!).

Right now I have the Knippex crimping long nose pliers, but I really don't like them.. I may just get the so pwcs7 as a backup to which ever ratcheting one I find.. just the idea for quick/temporary splices and fuse pulling is very appealing to me. Shame EBay has them overpriced over new by 50%!

 

[t100]

AMP, now Tyco

 

[jrlp]

^I hate you.

 

[shampoop]

but after 20-30 crimps with my current set, I get fatigued. And they aren't even crimps, I'm sure I'm shearing strands inside the connector. I usually put dielectric grease in the connectors, crimp them, then heatshrink over them.

I'm willing to spend a hundred, maybe more on a good crimper.

Ok then, sounds like a ratcheting one might be your best bet. I've only ever used a crimper for regular auto repair and audio stuff. Never done more than 20-30 crimps at a time before. Never thought about doing something like a whole engine harness and getting fatigued. I actually have a ratcheting crimper, but prefer just using my channel lock 909's. I use non insulated terminals and adhesive lined heat shrink. I like them because they're so cheap I could invest in a huge assortment of them very cheaply, and the adhesive lined heat shrink does a good job protecting them plus they are very slim which is really nice for situations like installing a car stereo where there's a ton of wires in a small space. Easier to fit the radio back in place and the connections won't get snagged on anything when removing it.

 

[jrlp]

Well, I do quite a few 'race' cars. Usually they come in wanting a whole new control panel, and fixing electrical gremlins caused by 15 years of 10 different mechanics working on it. So I throw in a Painless box, rewire everything, new panel/switches.. along with doing the odd alarm or radio/sub install. Plus I'm constantly doing something to one of my vehicles.. figured it was time to do it 'once and for all'. I see that AMP crimpers are between 50-200 dollars, but I am unsure which model / dies to get. Anyone know off the top of their head?

 

[housey]

So you can use any sort of crazy crimp design you want. Also because they work with double crimp connectors that also have a crimp that goes onto the insulator for support. Also so that a trained monkey can do it right.

It would be ideal if a trained monkey could do it right but unfortunately I see enough work from supposed electricians that couldn't do it right. They can still screw it up by using the wrong crimp die/profile, not having the conductor inserted far enough into the crimp, cutting off half the conductive strands when they strip the cable etc..

 

[Brownsfan]

and so they make ratcheting crimpers.....why?

There are lots of tools that can crush a terminal enough so it won't pull off a wire (a hammer, a vise...), that doesn't mean it is a good crimp.

For one thing, a good crimp should be as even and parallel across the terminal as possible, how is a simple plier style crimper going to achieve that?

Using that logic then why do they make plier style crimpers? I am not talking about cheap auto parts store ones either. I use 909's Snap On etc all day and have never had a crimp fail. This is in a vehicle enviornment. Most connections are soldered but there are some that are crimped. I do see where you are coming from though on the reliablility of the crimps by others because I have ssen exactly what you mentioned. Wires pull right out etc. But used PROPERLY there is nothing wrong with a good quaility plier style crimper.

 

[defy]

PWCS7 is one of the worse crimpers imo, not enough leverage, my workmate has one and a lot of his crimps fail, mainly insulated terminals.

 

[shampoop]

PWCS7 is one of the worse crimpers imo, not enough leverage, my workmate has one and a lot of his crimps fail, mainly insulated terminals.

I thought the same thing when looking at those crimpers. My channellock 909's are just long enough to get enough leverage to be sufficient for common sized insulated terminals. Any shorter and I feel like the average person wouldn't be able to get enough leverage.

 

[garfunkle24]

I use 909's Snap On etc all day and have never had a crimp fail.

That is your anecdotal evidence, this is mine: I have been a tech for quite some time working on heavy and ag equipment and now on high tech research equipment which is used in industrial and off-road settings. I have worked with countless techs and I am also involved in failure analysis when one of our machines goes down.

We build multi-million dollar machines that only have to work for a week out of the year, so when one of them breaks down, we figure out why.

I have never seen a single ratchet-crimped connection fail. I have seen a minimum of five pull outs that I know for a fact were crimped with 909/T+B style crimpers. This was by at least 4 different techs across the world, none of them weak-handed or new to the job.

 

[shampoop]

That is your anecdotal evidence, this is mine: I have been a tech for quite some time working on heavy and ag equipment and now on high tech research equipment which is used in industrial and off-road settings. I have worked with countless techs and I am also involved in failure analysis when one of our machines goes down.

We build multi-million dollar machines that only have to work for a week out of the year, so when one of them breaks down, we figure out why.

I have never seen a single ratchet-crimped connection fail. I have seen a minimum of five pull outs that I know for a fact were crimped with 909/T+B style crimpers. This was by at least 4 different techs across the world, none of them weak-handed or new to the job.

What was the cause of those pull outs?

 

[redwrench60]

They use **** connectors on multi-million dollar machines? They can't spring for some solder and heatshrink?

 

[Fastbird]

I do a lot of auto electrical stuff, and last year finally went ratcheting. I got the Waytek Wire housing and a couple of the interchangeable jaws. Best $120 investment ive ever made. I can knock out metripack and weatherpack crimps with the seal all at once, easy perfect crimps every time.