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HVAC replacement. Your opinions matter!!!

tolken4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
Not garage only, but I trust you guys/gals:evil:

This is purely an opinion thread as I know there are a lot of variables and answers. But, I would greatly appreciate the feedback to help me make my decision.

The facts:
1. 24 year old trane 2.5 ton trane AC died yesterday.
2. My furnace is a 17 year old trane xe80 is still humming along.
Replaced the blower motor myself 3 years ago.

Got alot of bids today to try and figure out what path to take. My options are pretty much as follows.

The options


1. Super cheap = maytag m120 13 seer replace ac only. $1,800 ish
2. Pretty cheap = Maytag m120 13 seer and 80% furnace $2,900 ish

3. MIDDLE of the Road = 14-15 seer Trane, Carrier, or American Standard air conditioners and 80% furnace 6000-8000.

4. As high as i would think about going = Trane, Carrier, or american standard 15 seer with variable blower furnace 80%

Only reason I am thinking about the furnace is the government ban on the 80% next year in may. I would hate to wait and then be forced into a 90%

If anyone out there is in the bus for any of these models and wants to help me out on what the real cost is on these feel free to chat me on the side. I won't post it.
 
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green.bubbly

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 14, 2008
Messages
2,156
Location
Lafayette, LA
Depends a lot of how much fuel you require. For example, if you rarely use the air conditioner, spending $6,000 more on a higher efficiency unit would probably not be a wise investment.

On the other hand, if you endure long cold winters, spending considerably more on a high efficiency furnace may be worth the money in the long run.
 
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T

tolken4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
So, we are in missouri. Gas is cheap for the furnace, and even our old ac unit was relatively cheap in the summer months. I have done the math on all the seer ratings. Nothing will pay us back, anything over 15, for us, just doesn't make sense ROI wise.

Now there are other issues like humidity and quite, but for just the cost, over 15 seer won't pay us back.
 
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Mike007

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Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
2,670
1. Super cheap = maytag m120 13 seer replace ac only. $1,800 ish
2. Pretty cheap = Maytag m120 13 seer and 80% furnace $2,900 ish

I guess the economy is A LOT different where you are. Those prices would be more in line with the 80's around here. :eyecrazy:

Maytag is a Nordyne product. I recently sold roughly 35 Nordyne systems. Had 6 expansion valve failures and 1 coil leak. Nordyne was less then helpful. In fact they pretty much left me and the customer holding the bag. I would choose another brand. I no longer sell it.
 

Jackfre

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Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,440
Location
N CA
Your first step should be to have a pressure test on your duct system. I think you will find that you have, as DOE documents, between 18-42% leakage in the duct system. Any equipment decision should follow the ability of your distribution system to deliver the efficiency of the system. Let's say you have the median leakage of 30%. Your preferred 80%'er X .7= 56% delivered efficiency IF the leakage doesn't create negative pressures in the system which could dramatically decrease the system efficiency. Rehabbing your duct system will cost real bucks, but you should look at it.
 

Dick in Wisconsin

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Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Messages
3,048
Location
Shawano, Wisconsin
Your first step should be to have a pressure test on your duct system. I think you will find that you have, as DOE documents, between 18-42% leakage in the duct system. Any equipment decision should follow the ability of your distribution system to deliver the efficiency of the system. Let's say you have the median leakage of 30%. Your preferred 80%'er X .7= 56% delivered efficiency IF the leakage doesn't create negative pressures in the system which could dramatically decrease the system efficiency. Rehabbing your duct system will cost real bucks, but you should look at it.

Huh ... almost everyday I learn something new on this sit.

We have a ranch with unfinished basement. If all my ducts are in basement, then wouldn't that leakage going into the basement? And eithe heat or cool the basement?

I suppose though that any leakage near the discharge vents will be close to the outside and the heat and cool air is wasted.

How do you do this test? Is there a link to a web site that show how?
 
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