thehazmatguy
Well-known member
Awesome!
1952 Craftsman "100" DP resto
- Thread starter jtbinvalrico
- Start date
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
jtb, I've seen this thread on OWWM as well. I love it. Best piece in my book is the new head band you did with the cratex bits and valve grinding slurry. The Cman DP I just got will need this treatment as it's headband is corroded. At the very least I'm looking to take it down to fresh metal and polish.
Good score on the vari-slow attachment. The DP is came from does look half bad either.
On your other DP you restored does it have the table crank? I've read that is a fairly rare option but I'd like to hunt for one. Does Atlas make a lift crank? I thought I saw someone use an Atlas crank on their Cman DP once.
Ok, I got nothing coherent to add. Just wanted to jump in. Congrats on finding the attachment
Good score on the vari-slow attachment. The DP is came from does look half bad either.
On your other DP you restored does it have the table crank? I've read that is a fairly rare option but I'd like to hunt for one. Does Atlas make a lift crank? I thought I saw someone use an Atlas crank on their Cman DP once.
Ok, I got nothing coherent to add. Just wanted to jump in. Congrats on finding the attachment
coolreed
Well-known member
Wow! What an awesome restoration job.
SweetD
Well-known member
The attachment is in great shape and should clean up nicely.
Great score on that Vari-Slo attachment!
Can you explain how it works? I know with the "typical" speed reducer you have three sets of pulleys and you have to manually change the belt locations to change speeds...
Is there no manual changing of the belts with the Vari-Slo installed? It looks like there are a total of four sets of pulleys?
Great work - one of the best threads I've ever subscribed to!
Thanks,
Dave
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
GirlnAgarage.......Thanks for the compliment! The table lifts are rare indeed. In fact, the one I got was missing one of the miter gears and it still went for a premium. I've noticed two makes of the table lift attachment, but the units are the same and are interchangeable. I believe the one I have is by Atlas. Up to 1943, the table lift attachment in the Craftsman catalog has a widened flare to the casting on the lower column clamp where the threaded rod passes through, whereas the post-1948 units have a simpler, straight casting. I have to assume that this is attributed to a change in manufacturer. So, I have a post-1948 table lift attachment on my 1942 DP:
Here's the thread that details the rebuilding of that table lift:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146096
Your best bet for finding these extras is in hunting complete DPs as donor machines. You can sometimes find just the attachment for sale, but in that case, a reseller is parting out the machine and probably has a pretty good idea of how rare the item is........versus an old DP someone "just wants gone" that happens to be wearing the desired attachments. In this case, my craigslist app and faithful monitoring of it finally paid off.
dave.......What they basically did was to take the two pulley system and throw two more in the middle. So, instead of swapping the belt around between the spindle and motor pulleys for various speed combinations, you leave spindle and motor pulleys alone......and the magic happens in the two middle pulleys. As you move that handle on the front face, it articulates a linkage that causes the two middle pulleys to change diameter. As one belt is tightened on a pulley, it squeezes the one next to it on the same shaft......this causes a exact, but opposite action on the other pulley set, so that moving the lever one way tightens a belt and changes the diameter for slow speed, but moving it the other way tightens the other belt and changes the diameter for higher speed. The "diameter change" is possible because both pulleys share one center plate that forms the "V" with the outer plates.......
.........geez, I'll just work on a video of it.
Here's the thread that details the rebuilding of that table lift:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146096
Your best bet for finding these extras is in hunting complete DPs as donor machines. You can sometimes find just the attachment for sale, but in that case, a reseller is parting out the machine and probably has a pretty good idea of how rare the item is........versus an old DP someone "just wants gone" that happens to be wearing the desired attachments. In this case, my craigslist app and faithful monitoring of it finally paid off.
dave.......What they basically did was to take the two pulley system and throw two more in the middle. So, instead of swapping the belt around between the spindle and motor pulleys for various speed combinations, you leave spindle and motor pulleys alone......and the magic happens in the two middle pulleys. As you move that handle on the front face, it articulates a linkage that causes the two middle pulleys to change diameter. As one belt is tightened on a pulley, it squeezes the one next to it on the same shaft......this causes a exact, but opposite action on the other pulley set, so that moving the lever one way tightens a belt and changes the diameter for slow speed, but moving it the other way tightens the other belt and changes the diameter for higher speed. The "diameter change" is possible because both pulleys share one center plate that forms the "V" with the outer plates.......
.........geez, I'll just work on a video of it.crowesnest
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Picked up these this week from craigslist
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Nice finds.....with the Vari-Slo, no less. Why two? Gonna make one super press and sell parts?
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
FrankLee, I've got that option on the dp I just picked up, in the thread here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160854
Post #24 from Outlaw shows the option. I haven't measured or purchased belts for it yet.
Post #24 from Outlaw shows the option. I haven't measured or purchased belts for it yet.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Frank, the first belt to measure is the spindle belt, that middle cluster is on an eccentric so I'd get it slightly past center towards the spindle and measure for that belt and have the motor in the fully inbound position, then back of maybe 1/2" and measure again for the second belt.
The eccentric will of course come back a bit once its tensioned, and then the motor will take up the final slack. there should be at least a couple of inches of motor tensioning available, so while somewhat critical for belt length, the only one that is particularly close is the more limited adjustment for the first belt.
Man, table lifter and everything! That's a Home Run!
The eccentric will of course come back a bit once its tensioned, and then the motor will take up the final slack. there should be at least a couple of inches of motor tensioning available, so while somewhat critical for belt length, the only one that is particularly close is the more limited adjustment for the first belt.
Man, table lifter and everything! That's a Home Run!
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Kaervak
Well-known member
For anyone in the Ohio area after another one, http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/3220207524.html
I'd love to pick it up, but it would just sit in my garage unused.
I'd love to pick it up, but it would just sit in my garage unused.
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
FrankLee.......PM sent
SantaAna12
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- Joined
- Mar 1, 2012
- Messages
- 1,091
I believe the above drill press is from 1952 or 1953. The '52 and '53 catalogs are the only ones that do not show the band around the head.
The model information label was removed from the base, so I have no idea on the exact model number or manufacturer. There may be a manufacturer number cast into the head. I need to check that out.
The drill press above came with several optional features:
- Production Table #99AM2306F
- Head and Table Lift #99A02419K
- Drill Press Collar #9A2429
- Slow-Speed Attachment #9A2338 (aka Multi-Speed, or Hi-Lo attachment)
Unfortunately, the slow-speed attachment was bypassed with a single belt from the motor pulley to the chuck arbor pulley.
So now I need to know what size belts to get to use the Slow-speed attachment. Does anyone have this option? I'd rather not guess, so I need the belt sizes and instruction on how to operate this feature.
FrankLee, you need a 27" and 29" belt. The longer one will go between the spindle and the multi speed pully. See this link for a picture of the original slow speed owners manual http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/homemade-low-speed-conversion-craftsman-drill-press-220616.html
And that is a nice score, I have never even heard about that big table before. and i am salivating over that table lift!
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OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Looking good......that table is a rare piece itself. You could zap those holes with a MIG and smooth them over if you wanted.....that's what I did on my 1942.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I wouldn't be too worried about those holes Frank, unless they are through and you plan on using coolant, which is what the table was deigned for. I'd bet the X-Y table of the day was intended to mount to the two factory holes that are in there.
woodrail
Well-known member
Tonight I brought home the drill press listed on the Cleveland Ohio Craigslist for $85. I ended up paying $100 including 3 pipe clamps and 2 c-clamps!
The press need a good cleaning and adjustment. Eventually, I'd love to try a resto similar to the OPs press!
In my late night enthusiasm, I scrubbed a little to hard and faded a couple of the engine turnings on the head band! d'oh!
Here's some before pic's:
The press need a good cleaning and adjustment. Eventually, I'd love to try a resto similar to the OPs press!
In my late night enthusiasm, I scrubbed a little to hard and faded a couple of the engine turnings on the head band! d'oh!
Here's some before pic's:
Attachments
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jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
This is great......seeing more old iron put back in service. Keep the pics and restos coming!
woodrail
Well-known member
I hope posting my notes on this thread is alright, I don't intend on hijacking someone elses thread!
When I brought my DP home, the table was froze solid to the column. I soaked it with PB Blaster. Tapped on the casting a little. Soaked some more overnight without luck. This morning i removed the lock handle to the table lock. I found the plug absolutely seized to the column. I drove the plug out and the table dropped. Hey, I learned something today!
My table has a couple of quarter inch diameter holes in it, First off, how do you accidently drill through a table with a bit that size?
What method would be best for me to repair these holes? I know the OP mig welded and ground down the table. I dont weld, so I'll have to call in a favor to do this.
When I brought my DP home, the table was froze solid to the column. I soaked it with PB Blaster. Tapped on the casting a little. Soaked some more overnight without luck. This morning i removed the lock handle to the table lock. I found the plug absolutely seized to the column. I drove the plug out and the table dropped. Hey, I learned something today!
My table has a couple of quarter inch diameter holes in it, First off, how do you accidently drill through a table with a bit that size?
What method would be best for me to repair these holes? I know the OP mig welded and ground down the table. I dont weld, so I'll have to call in a favor to do this.
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Glad to have some DP chat.....Are those holes spaced evenly like they were meant to secure something to the table? If they are close, one option is to clean them up and use them for that purpose. If you are going to farm out the repair, see if you can have someone do a cast iron welding fill on it for a proper repair.
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
The motor band is complete. I ended up not using the lathe drum I made because I found that the means of securing the band to the drum really complicated things and I didn't want to spend even more time overcoming a hardware issue on a jig.....so I just mounted the band flat to a board and worked it from there. I started with some aluminum sheet cut to the correct dimensions, with just a bit extra to allow for smoothing the edges:
I started with 400gr wet and worked my way through 2000gr wet, here's the progression:
This band won't come out right unless the surface is sufficiently polished, up next is the buffing wheel and some compound:
Mirror finish after some Mother's.......ready to be selectively scuffed up:
Here's an original band I used for reference. This one is marred after some time in a bath to remove rust, which removed the rust but left pitting. The textured lines are 1/8" across, and are 1/8" apart:
Hard to see in this pic (due to the glare =)........penciled lines mark off 1/8" lines on the band. I used these to guide my tape layout. The tape is laid out one stripe at a time:
I used 0000 steel wool wadded up in some forceps allow control. The blue tape holds up very well, allowing multiple passes to achieve a uniform scuffing to approximate the original finish. The steel wool will need to be rotated every couple of inches to allow for a proper cut on the surface:
Installed and ready to be put on the DP:
Just needs a new cord and grommet. Final assembly to follow soon.
I started with 400gr wet and worked my way through 2000gr wet, here's the progression:
This band won't come out right unless the surface is sufficiently polished, up next is the buffing wheel and some compound:
Mirror finish after some Mother's.......ready to be selectively scuffed up:
Here's an original band I used for reference. This one is marred after some time in a bath to remove rust, which removed the rust but left pitting. The textured lines are 1/8" across, and are 1/8" apart:
Hard to see in this pic (due to the glare =)........penciled lines mark off 1/8" lines on the band. I used these to guide my tape layout. The tape is laid out one stripe at a time:
I used 0000 steel wool wadded up in some forceps allow control. The blue tape holds up very well, allowing multiple passes to achieve a uniform scuffing to approximate the original finish. The steel wool will need to be rotated every couple of inches to allow for a proper cut on the surface:
Installed and ready to be put on the DP:
Just needs a new cord and grommet. Final assembly to follow soon.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Excellent! The band came out very nice.
thehazmatguy
Well-known member
Just needs a new cord and grommet. Final assembly to follow soon.
That looks fantastic! Nice work!
admranger
Well-known member
Wow. Excellent craftsmanship on your part.
318fekim
Well-known member
jtb,
what are your plans for the remainder of the DP you bought for the VS attachment?
mike
what are your plans for the remainder of the DP you bought for the VS attachment?
mike
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
I need to go back and read the details on that but man that is nice.
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Thanks guys and girl.....
Mike, I'm parting it out for sale. You interested in any of it?
Mike, I'm parting it out for sale. You interested in any of it?
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GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
I'm going to stick my nose in here, if it has a table crank I'm interested in it for my DP.
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
No table crank on this one.
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
ckadams00
Well-known member
Gonna have to go back and start ALL OVER on my150 restore. Amazing.
zip95864
Well-known member
amazing work! I'm impressed!
Wow you sir are a magician, thank you for sharing your expertise. You now have me in the mood to go polish something, but I am sure that will pass when I think about how bad my hands will be hurting 5 minutes into the project.
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Re: 1952 Craftsman "100" DP resto **COMPLETED**
Final pics........thanks for all the words and support:
Final pics........thanks for all the words and support:
SweetD
Well-known member
One of, if not the, best restorations I have ever seen. Congratulations, and thanks for posting your progress from start to finish! I have the Model 150 benchtop, and this documentation will be a great source for me when I get around to fixing it up.
Now, are you going to actually use it, or is it a showpiece?
Dave
Now, are you going to actually use it, or is it a showpiece?
Dave
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
It serves as my woodworking DP.....in fact, I started using it a coupla weeks ago and had to brush off the chips and dust for it's modeling debut. She's already dirty again.
Rust
Banned
Jee whiz dude! Your diligence has really paid off. Thats Amazing.
Just think, if you get some of that sawdust in your eye you wont have to run to a mirror.
Could be a real timesaver. lol
Hey, on a rough estimate, what was the total time from start to finish? I guess the date of the first post would indicate a close proximity.
I only ask, because I was pondering how much a tool would cost, if it came from the factory like this. No one could probably afford it.
You re-set the bar quite high. You certainly have a one of a kind there. Well done.
Just think, if you get some of that sawdust in your eye you wont have to run to a mirror.
Could be a real timesaver. lol
Hey, on a rough estimate, what was the total time from start to finish? I guess the date of the first post would indicate a close proximity.
I only ask, because I was pondering how much a tool would cost, if it came from the factory like this. No one could probably afford it.
You re-set the bar quite high. You certainly have a one of a kind there. Well done.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Good Lord, that's a piece of 'Industrial Art'! The only bare metal that's not polished are the prongs on the plug. lol Wow, just beautiful!
OP
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
If I were to do it again, I could do it in a fraction of the time. That's mainly due to the learning curves involved in parts of the process. The engine-turning is a great example. I spent far more time learning how to do it and practicing it than it actually took me to make the part. There were failures in the attempts of some processes, which I can now go straight to with success.
I could probably do it again in three weekends, if I had to guess. Learning and screwing things up along the way can easily triple that time estimate.
I could probably do it again in three weekends, if I had to guess. Learning and screwing things up along the way can easily triple that time estimate.