What is this air tank fitting?

[StaggeringGoat]

I just bought a big, HEAVY air tank manufactured in 1948 by Westinghouse. It has this fitting bolted to the side towards the bottom, with a 1/2" copper pipe and valve attached. When I open the valve no air comes out.

I want to take the pipe off and plug the hole. Is this "flange thing" some sort of standard fitting that I can buy? Or am I going to have to make one?

 

[retDAC]

 

[StaggeringGoat]

Oh ****, that's what I get for posting at 3:00 AM.

 

[rlitman]

Why is no air coming out? I'd guess it is filled with crud.
The fitting with the bolts looks to be a pump flange. I have no idea why one would use it like this though, in lieu of a union.

 

[Tavy]

Why is no air coming out? I'd guess it is filled with crud.
The fitting with the bolts looks to be a pump flange. I have no idea why one would use it like this though, in lieu of a union.

Think I agree with this fella.
Make a plate to cover it and either cut a gasket to fit or weld it on.

 

[djjsr]

It looks like there's a plate sandwiched between the flange and the tank. Probably a block-off that someone installed previously.

 

[Tavy]

Looks like the bolt on the one side is spaced with the nut on it and the other is different, too. Could be adapter madness?

 

[Outlawmws]

It looks like there's a plate sandwiched between the flange and the tank. Probably a block-off that someone installed previously.

Yep, I vote for this. someone wanted it blocked positively, and knew the flat plate by itself would leak, so used the remains of the valve assy to keep it flat and tight.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Looks like a Dickfor.

 

[1320stang]

What's a di....... OHHH!! I see what you did there..... LOL!!!

 

[StaggeringGoat]

Looks like the bolt on the one side is spaced with the nut on it and the other is different, too. Could be adapter madness?

Yep, the bolt on top looks like it has a nut under it for a spacer, but it's still not tight. I'm not even sure why it doesn't leak. (it held 120 PSI over night)The rectangular thing under the flange is some sort of gasket.

 

[efoster01]

Might as well take it off and see what you have. A flat peice of 3/8" plate with 2 holes and some black RTV will fix you right up.

 

[jrsulo]

That sure does look like a ciculator pump flange ??

 

[djjsr]

That sure does look like a ciculator pump flange ??

That's what I was thinking too. I wonder if that tank started life as a water tank. I scrapped one that looked very much like that only bigger. It was a 600 gallon hot water storage tank.

 

[StaggeringGoat]

I don't think it was a water tank - it has a big shelf on the top where the compressor used to be. Also has what I think is the original pressure gauge, 0-300 PSI. (still works!) The tag on the side says it's rated to 250 PSI at 650 degrees...not sure why it would ever get that hot?

 

[KinzeMech]

Looks like a Dickfor.

What's that?

(I didn't say it!)

 

[tylerae40]

I don't think it was a water tank - it has a big shelf on the top where the compressor used to be. Also has what I think is the original pressure gauge, 0-300 PSI. (still works!) The tag on the side says it's rated to 250 PSI at 650 degrees...not sure why it would ever get that hot?

If it says 250psi at 650 degrees its probably been some type of boiler or hot water tank as one of the guys said. just leak test it a few times over night and spay a spray bottle with soapy water on any areas you may think are leaking, ( any bubbling indicate a leak). looks good mate.

 

[StaggeringGoat]

Hmmm...I finally got one of the big plugs off the tank so I could look inside, there is some sort of black coating in there. No rust at all that I could see! It's 64 years old!

Is it normal for air tanks to have a coating inside? I've never seen that before...

 

[GeneralDisorder]

The temp and pressure its rated at as well as the era from which it comes points to a steam pressure vessel of some nature. The coating is not typical of air tanks and they would have no need of temps that high.

GD

 

[StaggeringGoat]

If it was a steam or water tank why would it have a shelf on the top?

 

[GeneralDisorder]

The "shelf" is properly known as a saddle and that can hold any type of equipment - from a compressor to a vacuum pump to anything in-between. When you buy tanks they come with saddles of various sizes. It's just something you specify when you order.

The saddle in question is mighty big for a compressor on that size of tank. Generally motors and pumps were larger in those days but you also tend to see shorter, fatter tanks from those days to keep the center of gravity from getting too out of whack. Pumps are usually a lot heavier than motors and a pump mounted at the extent of that saddle would be a heavy off-center load.

Could be a compressor tank I suppose but 650* F is serious heat and there would be no reason for that on a compressor. The hottest temps you would see are about 350 *F right on the discharge port of the compressor.

I'm not convinced and I built these things for a living once upon a time.....

GD

 

[545days]

The design pressure stamped on a pressure vessel does not necessarily correspond to the operating temperature. It is often the maximum allowable temperature above which the vessel cannot safely contain the design pressure, and is based on the allowable stresses of the materials of construction.

Why stamp a lower temperature that restricts future use of the pressure vessel?

 

[StaggeringGoat]

Does the rest of this info on the tag mean anything to anyone? Now I'm curious what it's original purpose was...

WESTINGHOUSE AIR BRAKE CO
MAX WP 250LBS
MAX TEMP 650 F
SH 250HD 250
RAD ELL
LMC NB MFG 762 2
U-69
1948

 

[metal1313]

could wp in max wp 250 be water pressure. i bet it was a steam tank

 

[Provincial]

WESTINGHOUSE AIR BRAKE CO
MAX WP 250LBS
MAX TEMP 650 F
SH 250HD 250
RAD ELL
LMC NB MFG 762 2
U-69
1948

Westinghouse Air Brake Co. mostly made air brakes for railroad equipment.
Max WP usually means working pressure.
Max. temp - max. working temperature.
SH250HD250 = Shell (main body) .250 thick, Heads .250 thick
RAD ELL - I don't know this one.
LMC NB MFG 762 2 - I think this is the manufacturing plant code and serial number.
U-69 - I think this is part of the date code.
1948 - year of manufacture.

It could have been an air storage tank for air brakes on a smaller piece of railroad equipment that used a pump mounted on the shelf. I may have been powered by an electric motor or even gas drive. That late I doubt it was powered by steam but I have seen small steam engine-driven compressors before.

At any rate, if there isn't any significant corrosion inside the tank, it should last forever, since quarter-inch steel is way overkill for that working pressure!

 

[RECox286]

Irrigardless of the original purpose, the tank will work for your intended use.

What you may want to explore is that there should be some way to drain the

water that will accumulate in the tank. I would suggest you disassemble the

fittings, and find out why it is not passing air/water. You may have to re-engineer

the assembly so it will function as it should. My drain is on the top half of the tank,

and there is a hose that attaches to the fitting (on the inside), then lays in the bottom of the tank.

Uncle Bob

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Whoa! Yeah 1/4" plate is much heavier wall construction than modern tanks.... And most common compressed air tanks are 200 psi working pressure.

Air brakes in the 40's.... The size of the tank.... All points to railroad gear. Very probably a pressure vessel from some rail yard. Thus the crazy lining in the tank and the odd fitting on the side.

As mentioned if you want to use it for compressed air you will need a drain to let out the condensation at the bottom.

GD

 

[StaggeringGoat]

Irrigardless of the original purpose, the tank will work for your intended use.

What you may want to explore is that there should be some way to drain the

water that will accumulate in the tank. I would suggest you disassemble the

fittings, and find out why it is not passing air/water. You may have to re-engineer

the assembly so it will function as it should. My drain is on the top half of the tank,

and there is a hose that attaches to the fitting (on the inside), then lays in the bottom of the tank.

Uncle Bob

Yeah, it's got a 1/2" port on the bottom with a valve to drain. I built a brass manifold for the top tonight, still haven't messed with that weird flange fitting. I may just leave it as is since it doesn't leak, and it's already got plenty of other threaded ports.

 

[Sureshot]

The saddle may have been added as well as the legs by someone in it's second life.

 

[rasit]

I have seen similar oval flanges in larger sizes for installing water pumps and meters but not in 1/2".
http://www.bwc-us.com/Oval_Companion_Flanges.html
I have never seen oval blind flanges to block off a port and suspect that is what the retangular plate was made up for in your photo. I would take it apart, get rid of the piping, trim the plate up for a cleaner look, make up new gaskets and bolt it up.

 

[transittech]

Where in Oregon are you? Sawmill country?? I'd guess an old tank, (possibly steam) out of a sawmill. Accumulator of some sort???

 

[Lomotil]

Looks like a Dickfor.

 

[littletoes]

The "Black" lining is most likely glass......DON'T DROP IT!

In any application, where water is inside of a high quality tank, such as in expansion tanks, they are usually glass lined.

So, it makes sense that its a glass lined compressed air storage tank. DON'T DROP IT, DON'T WELD ON IT, you'll burn or break the glass off, and where it breaks off, it will rust.

You can always install a dip-tube in the side flange, where the copper line is brazed on.