Hot Water Baseboard vs Staple up Radiant

[maxpower_454]

This may not be completely garage related but I know there are lots of heating experts on here so I figured I'd ask.

I just put tubing and unsulation for radiant floor heating in my garage and am wondering if I should do a staple-up installation in my house?? It's a 1200 sq ft ranch with an unfinished basement with the floor joices exposed. We currently have oil heat and I am looking for a way to cut down on oil as much as possible since it's so expensive and I hate funding terrorists.

How much more efficient would a staple-up radiant floor installation be over hot water baseboard? I talked to Blue Ridge and some other radiant heat company and they said it would be 40% more efficient! Anyone ever do this? Is this true?? If so I think I will do it since it could pay for itself pretty quick.

 

[philjafo]

If its forced air oil heat baseboards might block some registers. Radiant floors = warm feet, warm feet = warm feeling, that allows you to have slightly lower temps and still be comfortable. IMHO radiant is the way to go.

 

[Bigturk]

I'm not an expert but have an opinion, like everyone. Radiant heat works best on floors that can easilly radiate that heat to the items sitting on it. Concrete or tile floors would be best. Putting your pex under the subfloor is not ideal as the subfloor and any floor covering will resist that heat transfer to the rooms above. Carpet and underpad would not be good. You would have to insulate below your pex pipe to resist the heat loss to your basement. I don't think Radiant Heat is easy to install after the house has been built but is the "Cat's Meow" if designed into a new build. I installed radiant into my Mother's ICF (insulated Concret Form) home and my new garage. My house is similar to yours with an unheated basement and Oil forced air. If I were to upgrade my haeting system I would consider a mini split heat pump on each of the main and bedroom floors. Get airconditioning as a bonus.

 

[maxpower_454]

It's hot water baseboard, not forced hot air. I'm not sure where you guys got that.

Anyone ever done this??

 

[philjafo]

Ok I missread, I thought you were looking for opinions on wether to add baseboard or radiant. If you just looking to cut your cost, and your insulation and windows are good, maybe look into switching to natural gas or propane, either one is way cheaper to run then oil. It's a bigger investment up front but it pays off in the long run. Average lifespan of a boiler is 20 to 30 years so just to throw some numbers at it if you go from an oil boiler at about 85 % efficient and you switch to a 95% high efficiency so you could take 10% off what your fuel bill is for the year then x by 20 year. Then there's some math that can be done to convert fuel oil btus to propane btus but I can't think of it right now, but I'm certain propane and natural gas are cheaper per btu, so there's more savings.

 

[maxpower_454]

I can do the math on BTU's and efficiency for propane and oil and agree, I would definitely switch to propane or electric (no gas service) if my oil burner ever died but it's in good shape yet so I don't have to go that far.

I'm really just looking for the difference in efficiency for the hot water delivery methods - baseboard vs staple up radiant - and anyone's experience who has actually done it.

 

[BadgerBoilerMN]

I'm really just looking for the difference in efficiency for the hot water delivery methods - baseboard vs staple up radiant - and anyone's experience who has actually done it.

Every day.

40% more comfortable perhaps. You will need heavy plates below the floor. Insulation etc. Fin-tube baseboard moves air...not radiant.

 

[maxpower_454]

I'm really torn right now. I can either put a coal stove in the basement and leave the floor uninsulated and basement door open or I can stick with oil hot water heat and convert to floor heating and then insulate the floor.

If I insulated the floor and went with the coal stove the insulation would be counter productive right?

 

[RCStocker]

I'm not an expert but have an opinion, like everyone. Radiant heat works best on floors that can easilly radiate that heat to the items sitting on it. Concrete or tile floors would be best. Putting your pex under the subfloor is not ideal as the subfloor and any floor covering will resist that heat transfer to the rooms above. Carpet and underpad would not be good. You would have to insulate below your pex pipe to resist the heat loss to your basement. I don't think Radiant Heat is easy to install after the house has been built but is the "Cat's Meow" if designed into a new build. I installed radiant into my Mother's ICF (insulated Concret Form) home and my new garage. My house is similar to yours with an unheated basement and Oil forced air. If I were to upgrade my haeting system I would consider a mini split heat pump on each of the main and bedroom floors. Get airconditioning as a bonus.

WRONG They have reflective pannels you instal first on wood floors. It works great. I have had them install it on several homes I have built.

 

[BadgerBoilerMN]

I have been designing and installing radiant floors, walls and ceilings for nearly 30 years. Everyone wants radiant floor heating, which works well in new homes or old and is more comfortable in all.

Ideal, is comfort without compromise...radiant floor heating.

Carpet, wood floor, cork, sub-floors, concrete, no matter, if you know what your doing, their is no equal.

 

[NewtownJim]

New to the forum. I'm building new home and shop with sips for the house if I can convince builder., and for sure i decided to do the same for shop 32 x 50 x 12. Poly sips 4.5 inch R28
and roof panels R40 for the shop and 4 inch R24 sips for the house. I want to do radiant
floors in shop. Live near St Louis area. Whats best way to insulate slab and do I need a 6inch pour or will 4 suffice? When i would be in the shop i'd be there a good 4-7 days at a time.
Anyone had experience with Warmboard especially the cost of it? Thinking
of possibly using it for the house. Seems like a really good product but no idea on cost.
Thanks

 

[BadgerBoilerMN]

Warmboard is generally used for suspended floors. 4" slab is good. If you need DHW in the shop a condensing water heater will do. If not, a condensing water heater. Depending on proximity, you may heat both spaces and do all DHW with one system.