Is lumber always sold like this?

[Frank]

I am not a carpenter. I struggle when it comes to wood work, but I get it done. It is a skill I would like to learn better. I am working on a shed. I bought several 14' 2 x 4's for my rafters and yesterday discovered they are not all the same length. Some vary as much as 1/2" in length. Pissed me off because I had a pattern piece and couldn't understand why I was getting different results. Is this just normal? It never occurred to me check the length of each one and maybe have to true them all up. I didnt have anyone to teach me that. I mean I know 2 x 4's are not literally 2" x 4".

And don't even get me started on when I discovered plywood isn't actually its advertised thickness.

 

[HaroRider]

Perhaps they are the same lenghth, but they appear to be different because they are warped. I know that happens alot.

Also you need to watch out for the ones with big knots. They are usually weaker in those spots.

 

[willymakeit]

Studs are usally the only lumber that has a controlled lenght.

 

[BMW Rider]

The mill usually allows a little extra length for shrinkage, the end result is usually variable but you should find them all to be slightly over length. Always cut to the desired final length.

 

[richtersrodz]

If you go into Lowes and HD, and look at the more expensive stuff, you will see it all cut to the exact length. But the prettier and nicer the wood, the more they cost. Lowes has a "premium" grade I think...

 

[csp]

The only time they are the same length is when they are sold as 92-5/8" long for studding out 8' walls.

 

[rlitman]

The only time they are the same length is when they are sold as 92-5/8" long for studding out 8' walls.

The mill usually allows a little extra length for shrinkage, the end result is usually variable but you should find them all to be slightly over length. Always cut to the desired final length.

Yep.

 

[sublimate]

And don't even get me started on when I discovered plywood isn't actually its advertised thickness.

Wait till you see how much they charge for 10 penny nails now...

 

[camarotoolman]

Usually you trim the rafter "tails" after they are nailed in place. Measure out from your siding on each end. Snap a chalk line end to end, mark a plumb cut(vertical), cut to lenght with skil saw. Its alot easier if you set up some walk boards, so you can move back and forth. Get a board holder (helpe) to help with the fascia, eye ball it straight as you nail it, the rafters seem to vary up and down because of warpage. Take your time and be safe.

 

[Gary S]

The only time they are the same length is when they are sold as 92-5/8" long for studding out 8' walls.

Correct.

A carpenter has a tape measure and a saw. After that the wood is the needed length.

 

[KPSquared]

You gotta measure and cut everything except for studs. It would be great if it was all the same length, but alas, they are not.

 

[magnusk750]

Is it even a problem that you have to trim ½ inch from the ends...

 

[Mudbone]

The only time they are the same length is when they are sold as 92-5/8" long for studding out 8' walls.

92-5/8??? Really? Around here, NC, studs are 93 even.

 

[5lima30]

Measure twice and cut once! Usually you will get better quality lumber (less warping/ splitting) from your local lumberyard/ building supply vs. the big box stores. Often there is little if any price difference. Good luck!

 

[Falcon67]

92-5/8??? Really? Around here, NC, studs are 93 even.

Really - standard here is 92 5/8" Sole plate+stud+double top = 97.125". Minus 5/8 ceiling drywall and minus 96" (8') 1/2" wall dry wall = 1/2" clearance at the floor.

 

[Major Ramifications]

Usually you trim the rafter "tails" after they are nailed in place. Measure out from your siding on each end. Snap a chalk line end to end, mark a plumb cut(vertical), cut to lenght with skil saw. Its alot easier if you set up some walk boards, so you can move back and forth. Get a board holder (helpe) to help with the fascia, eye ball it straight as you nail it, the rafters seem to vary up and down because of warpage. Take your time and be safe.

^This^

Also, you should always measure from the end you are keeping, not the cut off. With rafters, you just snap a line and trim after they are in place.

 

[K13]

Really - standard here is 92 5/8" Sole plate+stud+double top = 97.125". Minus 5/8 ceiling drywall and minus 96" (8') 1/2" wall dry wall = 1/2" clearance at the floor.

yup same here.

 

[w1im]

Usually you will get better quality lumber (less warping/ splitting) from your local lumberyard/ building supply vs. the big box stores. Often there is little if any price difference. Good luck!

Yup. I won't buy lumber at home depot, the local family owned lumber yard has better stuff and its the same price or cheaper. No digging through the pile to find a few straight pieces in the pile of junk either.

 

[tcianci]

Guys have touched on the the correct answer here. Only material that is stamped as STUD will be held to a specific length whether 92-5/8", 88" or 96". The other dimension lumber is sold as "lineal" and the longer the piece, the more likely it is to run long. This is especially helpful if you expect, for example, to get 4 three foot pieces out of a 12 footer. Without the extra length, you would eat up material in saw cuts and not be able to get 4 three foot pieces from the 12 footer.

 

[Mudbone]

Really - standard here is 92 5/8" Sole plate+stud+double top = 97.125". Minus 5/8 ceiling drywall and minus 96" (8') 1/2" wall dry wall = 1/2" clearance at the floor.

Interesting. What do you guys do with 3/4 flooring? Lay it to the outside of the drywall?
I am not a builder so I don't know all the ways its done around here. But a 93 inch stud gives you a 97.5 or 1-1/2 over 8ft. 5/8 ceiling drywall + 3/4 flooring is 1-3/8. so you have a 1/8 clearance. If thinner flooring is used the larger gap is just covered by the base board.

 

[Mudbone]

Yup. I won't buy lumber at home depot, the local family owned lumber yard has better stuff and its the same price or cheaper. No digging through the pile to find a few straight pieces in the pile of junk either.

I have learned it doesn't matter where you go, you have to pick out the lumber yourself a stick at a time if you want usable stuff. For may last project, I went to a local lumber yard about 20 miles away. They carried some items that Lowes doesn't so I figured, what the heck I will give them the rest of the order as well. (Lowes is 5 miles from my house.) I got great service and they were about 5-10% cheaper. But what was delivered to my house I wouldn't use for firewood. I burned up my savings putting gas in my truck to take back and exchange all the junk. I had studs that were half rounds. For my next project that requires more lumber than will fit in one truck load I will have to buy a trailer or insist that I be allowed to pick the order myself before it is delivered.

 

[BigGMC]

It ***** to be caught by surprise but the "extra" length is a bit easier to deal with than the variences in width that you'll find. when I built my deck I didn't pick up on the fact that some joist boards were 1/4" wider or narrower than others........ until I started laying decking (composite). So now, when sighting across the deck at eye level, you see wavyness in the decking.
sons-a-beeches!!!
You'd think with all the computer controlled saws, things would be damn near perfect!

 

[wnstwolf]

Wall is built over the subfloor

 

[Frank]

The reason the "problem" became such a nuisance...

I had built one rafter for my template and from there marked my cuts for the rest of the boards so they would all be the same. I had made the "birds mouth" cuts based on the one board I had used on my template. Apparently that one board was about 1/2" longer than all the rest, so I kept coming up short where the boards come together at the birds mouth. Fortunately, I had not made all my cuts and was able to compensate before it was too late.

 

[Hank McMauser]

If you go into Lowes and HD, and look at the more expensive stuff, you will see it all cut to the exact length. But the prettier and nicer the wood, the more they cost. Lowes has a "premium" grade I think...

yeah they advertise it as premium center cut ,no wane on the edges. Well when you get the center cut with the very center of the tree it does some goofy shtuff as it dries out. gimme a lil' wane & a more stable/straight board any day

 

[kbs2244]

I think he has a bigger problem.
Unless he is building a tent a 14 foot 2x4 should never be used as a rafter.
(Maybe he means joist?)

And to the OP.
Yes, wood is always sold that way.
You are expected to know you have to cut any lumber to the size needed.

 

[kwb]

as noted by someone else- when making a jig your jig is based on the part you keep not the drop.

 

[richtersrodz]

It ***** to be caught by surprise but the "extra" length is a bit easier to deal with than the variences in width that you'll find. when I built my deck I didn't pick up on the fact that some joist boards were 1/4" wider or narrower than others........ until I started laying decking (composite). So now, when sighting across the deck at eye level, you see wavyness in the decking.
sons-a-beeches!!!
You'd think with all the computer controlled saws, things would be damn near perfect!

I ran into the same thing when building in my attic, for a master bedroom. I had one or two 2x8's that were a tad bit taller (on edge) and when I laid down my subfloor, it had a hump in it. I was pissed to say the least...

 

[Steevo]

I had to rummage through a pile of 2x4x96" boards at HD one day just to find six that were at least 96" long. Many were actually less than 96"

 

[Falcon67]

Interesting. What do you guys do with 3/4 flooring? Lay it to the outside of the drywall?
I am not a builder so I don't know all the ways its done around here. But a 93 inch stud gives you a 97.5 or 1-1/2 over 8ft. 5/8 ceiling drywall + 3/4 flooring is 1-3/8. so you have a 1/8 clearance. If thinner flooring is used the larger gap is just covered by the base board.

Flooring is under the sole plate. If you add tile, laminated, carpet, etc - that is just interior finish. 90+% of new construction here is slab. 3/4. Flooring is for houses built in the 20s-60s.

 

[NUTTSGT]

This is just a common tidbit of information DIYers pick up with experience. One day, you'll pass it on to someone else that doesn't know it.

 

[mngundog]

Yup. I won't buy lumber at home depot, the local family owned lumber yard has better stuff and its the same price or cheaper. No digging through the pile to find a few straight pieces in the pile of junk either.

Its the exact opposite here, the family owned ones are about 30-40% more expensive and the quality is the same or worse than the box stores.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am working on a shed. I bought several 14' 2 x 4's for my rafters ...

That is an awful long span for a 2x4, unless you are cutting them down. Based on length alone, I would have used a 2x6.