If you want both recepticles controlled by the switch you would need 12/3 at least between the recepticals. Running 12/3 up to the switch as well simplifies the color coding and gives a NEC 2011-compliant installation (with a neutral available in the switch box for future use.)
12/2 from circuit breaker (black = hot)
12/3 between junction boxes (black = hot, red = switched hot)
12/3 to switch (black = hot, red = switch hot)
In box 1, wire nut the two black wires together. Connect the red wire to the brass screw on the recepticle.
In box 2, wire nut the two black wires together. Connect the two red wires to the brass screws on the recepticle (or pigtail using a wire nut).
In the switch box, the red and black wires go to the switch. Cap off the unused white neutral with a wire nut. Both outlets will be controlled by the switch.
(If you wanted, you could have 1/2 of each outlet controlled by the switch and the other half hot all the time... this is handy for placing lamps around a room all controlled by the wall switch, but lets you plug in other stuff that gets power all the time.)
