Advice wanted on vintage toolbox cleanup

[RCRGarage]

Picked this up recently, started on cleaning it up and making it presentable. Thought about painting, but am into original paint cars, and thought that the box would look cool with original polished paint - its only original once.
I started by doing a light wipedown, then started trying to take the "grease marks" off. They're either not grease marks, or its some badass grease. Degreaser, reducer and acetone will barely touch it. After these pictures were taken, I made some decent progress on the gray bank of drawers. Scrubbed with acetone and a rag, then colorsanded, then buffed out the drawer fronts.
The red is a different story. The marks will not come out with the above treatment. Not sure if the paint is thin or what. Any experience with older Snap On boxes with original paint? Like I said, the pictures are before I did any cleanup work, the gray looks like it will come out fine.
The drawer section is original black paint. According to collectingsnapon, in 1967 the drawer section came out, and it was only available in red/black.

 

[uniballer]

Nice, the stickers must stay. Their original!

 

[Stuart in MN]

You may find this thread interesting, it's about the same kind of box as yours: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35028

 

[RCRGarage]

You may find this thread interesting, it's about the same kind of box as yours: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35028

I saw that box on another forum after it was restored... it was one of the few vintage boxes that I respected and admired. When I saw this one was for sale, I **** a brick... had to have it.

 

[JSBriggs]

Any luck with WD-40 or simple green?

-Jeff

 

[Alfajuj]

The black stains are probably some kind if oxidation.

I would think that rubbing compound and elbow grease would eventually get past those stains.

 

[4x4gearhead]

I really like that box, Im still searching for a vintage one for home. I hope you continue to post pics as you progress.

 

[LSU]

in a "hidden spot" I would try some automobile rubbing or buffing compound. You're going to want to use the type that is less abrasive but I'm not sure which one it is.

I'd go with some higher quality brand of the compound.

You might also ask at a local auto body shop or look on the net about vintage automobile finishes and what folks use to remove the crude from them.

Another thought I had is to try some automotive "Bug and Tar Remover".

Good luck with the project and keep us posted.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

RCR, see how you do on the original paint but don't dismiss the possibility of doing a new paint job on it. 45 years of paint is going to wear out to a point.

With the right paint on a repaint, that setup could look better than new.

 

[balane]

Those are such awesome boxes I think, one of my all time favorites. I was very disappointed when I almost had the opportunity to get one. I saw one exactly like that on Craig's List, maybe in a little better condition even. He was selling it for $300. I contacted him quickly, maybe 20 minutes after the listing was posted. I told him I'd give him the $300 and be over pronto to pick it up. As I was getting ready to leave my phone rang and he said somebody traded him a laptop for it and since he needed a computer he went ahead and made the trade. I have no idea how good the laptop was that he got.

Well, sure enough, just a few days later I saw the box relisted by a different seller on Craig's List for $2000. Sigh, I really wanted it.

Things worked out OK though because soon after that I found a nice KR660 double bank with all good ball bearing slides for $500 and I've been super happy with it.

Still, that box you have is ultra cool and would be excellent to own. Good luck with it and post lots of photos. Subscribed!

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Things worked out OK though because soon after that I found a nice KR660 double bank with all good ball bearing slides for $500 and I've been super happy with it.

I've got a KR 560. All friction slides, except the biggest drawer, but it's a great box that's for sure.

 

[luvit]

hey, i don't know what i'm lookng at, but try some lighter fluid, like zippo or even kingsford charcoal lighter fluid.
soft rag to wipe, like an old cotton Tshirt..
.

 

[RCRGarage]

Professionally, I specialize in metalwork, paint & body, so know about most of the products out there. It laughed at an aggressive rubbing compound on a buffer.
On a red drawer front, I colorsanded with 1500 then 2000, then buffed out the paint. Looks super glossy and wet, but there are funny red stains still. The gray paint appears to not have this problem.
I forgot about simple green, will try that along with CLR... those two products are great for removing rust stains on original paint cars.
Im stoked about the box, will get some more pictures up tomorrow of the progress. I'll probably end up colorsanding the whole thing, buffing it out, and seeing how it sits then. Probably no luck with finding new trim, the original stuff is beat. Any ideas on new trim?

 

[RCRGarage]

hey, i don't know what i'm lookng at, but try some lighter fluid, like zippo or even kingsford charcoal lighter fluid.
soft rag to wipe, like an old cotton Tshirt..
.

I'll give that a shot, too, but it laughed at an aggressive scrubbing with a rag and acetone/reducer/thinner/degreaser.
The paint is old, but it is tough... I'll give it that. I'd like to see the paint on a new box withstand the abusive chemicals that I've thrown at it.

 

[LSU]

Please post some pics.

What about removing the drawers and soaking them in a large washtub full of a very strong simple green solution?

You got my attention when you said you buffed it and it didn't come clean. Glad you do this professionally because I would have been terrified to try that.

No idea on where to get the trim.

I'd try and remove and save that original SnapOn tool sticker. Not sure how to do that but it is beautiful.

 

[RCRGarage]

RCR, see how you do on the original paint but don't dismiss the possibility of doing a new paint job on it. 45 years of paint is going to wear out to a point.

With the right paint on a repaint, that setup could look better than new.

Repainting was my first thought, but now seeing it in person at the shop, I can't stand to paint over almost 50 years of history. Nothing pains me more than seeing a customer insist on repainting his 50, 60 or 70 year old original paint car because the paint is thin (from loving) in a few places.
It would look **** all shiny again, though!

 

[timbitca]

Those boxes look awesome! Hope you figure it out and you post after pictures!

 

[tuscarora dave]

Professionally, I specialize in metalwork, paint & body, so know about most of the products out there. It laughed at an aggressive rubbing compound on a buffer.
On a red drawer front, I colorsanded with 1500 then 2000, then buffed out the paint. Looks super glossy and wet, but there are funny red stains still. The gray paint appears to not have this problem.
I forgot about simple green, will try that along with CLR... those two products are great for removing rust stains on original paint cars.
Im stoked about the box, will get some more pictures up tomorrow of the progress. I'll probably end up colorsanding the whole thing, buffing it out, and seeing how it sits then. Probably no luck with finding new trim, the original stuff is beat. Any ideas on new trim?

Sometimes when working on older stuff, to clean up the paint the best I can (especially when there is heavy ferrous metal oxidation involved) I use 3D international's Deep Blue Metal polish as a clay lube of sorts. The clay will often shear off contaminates that rotary buffing will nor remove regardless of how abrasive the compound is. That combined with the chemicals in the Deep Blue that are designed to dissolve rust and other forms of tarnish and oxidation usually produces really nice results on old rusty painted surfaces.

Perhaps you are dealing with below surface rust related contaminates within the matrix of the paint. Are you familiar with Deep Blue from 3D international? You being in the refinishing industry where overspray could be quite common, I'd assume you'd have some clay laying around somewhere.

It's an Idea that's worth a shot as you've already determined that mechanical abrasion is only doing so much.

Edit: Nice box by the way!!

 

[jeffmoss26]

That's a really cool box! Did the tools come with it?

 

[trexdoink]

I've done a few and had good luck degreasing with greased lightning full strength and get the hard spots with some turtle wax polishing compound. Top off with a good car wax. 3m adhesive remover works good for hard to get spots too.

 

[RCRGarage]

See above- the stains laugh at degreaser, acetone, reducer. I'll start colorsanding tomorrow after trying simple green and CLR.
Thanks!

 

[Boiler]

Most of you probably will think this is a terrible, idea, but when i get old boxes like that covered in grime, surface rust, scratches, etc, I just hit them with #0000 steel wool and WD-40 and rags...

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Most of you probably will think this is a terrible, idea, but when i get old boxes like that covered in grime, surface rust, scratches, etc, I just hit them with #0000 steel wool and WD-40 and rags...

WD 40 works quite well I've found.

 

[Alfajuj]

If it comes down to color sanding, then go for it. But don't repaint it unless you absolutely have to. All the trim won't match it then. For the trim, have you tried Autosol metal polish? Or Happich Simichrome? Sometimes you'd be surprised how much it helps.

 

[RCRGarage]

That's a really cool box! Did the tools come with it?

Thanks. Unfortunately, the tools did not come with it... they're mine. I couldn't wait to clean it up before getting it put back to work. Will have time this weekend.

 

[ZRX61]

Professionally, I specialize in metalwork, paint & body, so know about most of the products out there. It laughed at an aggressive rubbing compound on a buffer.

So why not try claying it?

 

[RCRGarage]

So why not try claying it?

LOL. Rubbing compound had no effect - why would a clay bar work?

I'm in the process of colorsanding and buffing. Clay bars are for detailers, and remove only the lightest contaminants and overspray. I almost never detail a car, but when I do, I skip the clay bar... when you want progress, you bring out the solvents, sandpaper and buffer.

 

[RCRGarage]

Started colorsanding and buffing this weekend. Looks like the stains are actually thin paint on the red areas. A few pictures of the progress here... some colorsanding and the first round of buffing. I actually finished colorsanding the entire box, and finished buffing the outside and gray sections, but no pics yet.
Will post some more tomorrow. Think its going to look decent... for almost 50 year old paint.

 

[Outlawmws]

I had old grease stains on a tool box that also laughed at all the usual suspects...

I finally scrubbed it with Comet Cleanser (the powdered kind) and it got the paint clean, but dulled, Waxing brought back the sheen. I don't know if it was the abrasives, or the "Chlorinol" (or whatever they use today) but it worked and worked well, and fairly fast. Saved the old paint on that one.

Question for the CLR users: Will it remove rust without removing paint? I have a 30's or 40's SO with probably 90% of the original wrinkle paint, but has bare rusty metal where h paint is gone...

 

[ZRX61]

LOL. Rubbing compound had no effect - why would a clay bar work?
I'm in the process of colorsanding and buffing. Clay bars are for detailers, and remove only the lightest contaminants and overspray. I almost never detail a car, but when I do, I skip the clay bar... when you want progress, you bring out the solvents, sandpaper and buffer.

Clay bars remove overspray.. which is what you pretty much said it was in the next post:

Looks like the stains are actually thin paint on the red areas...

 

[RCRGarage]

Clay bars remove overspray.. which is what you pretty much said it was in the next post:

Thats not at all what I said. I said the paint was thin... as in the paint on the toolbox was thin, and the thin areas resembled stains. Nowhere did I say overspray. If I was going to describe overspray, I'd say overspray. I said the paint was thin, meaning that bare metal was slightly showing through the paint - because it was thin in spots. Also, if you read the FIRST post, you can see that I used a few solvents. These remove overspray. So does colorsanding, which I described in the first post. SO... to recommend using a clay bar AFTER solvents, colorsanding, buffing... is silly - which I also said.
Not trying to be a jerk or start an argument. Save the clay bars for your kids to play with, they're useless for anything other than the lightest contaminants and have no place in saving paint, bringing back original paint, finishing fresh paint or even a serious detail.

 

[RCRGarage]

I had old grease stains on a tool box that also laughed at all the usual suspects...

I finally scrubbed it with Comet Cleanser (the powdered kind) and it got the paint clean, but dulled, Waxing brought back the sheen. I don't know if it was the abrasives, or the "Chlorinol" (or whatever they use today) but it worked and worked well, and fairly fast. Saved the old paint on that one.

Question for the CLR users: Will it remove rust without removing paint? I have a 30's or 40's SO with probably 90% of the original wrinkle paint, but has bare rusty metal where h paint is gone...

It will remove rust stains without touching the paint, but will dull it a little. I've had excellent results using it with several older cars.
I've also used Comet, and you're right, it works nicely for gnarly stains on paint... just be ready with the buffer afterwards.

 

[Geurt]

Think its going to look decent... for almost 50 year old paint.

Looks awesome! Could you maybe tell some more about the process of the color sanding and buffing? Products, grade of sandpaper and such?

 

[ShadowRuleZ]

Any update on your box?

If anyone is looking for one of those boxes, I just saw one come up on craigslist around Detroit. http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/3385058412.html