Band saw inquiry

[SRX]

I am looking for a band saw and was wanting any an all opinions. I do more wood working than metal cutting, but I would like the option to cut more metal in the near future. There are quite a few used, older ones on craigslist in my area. I am hoping to pick up a long term duel use model. Here are just a few types in my neck of the woods:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/3384838822.html

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/3370305166.html

http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/tls/3349990171.html

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/3378787483.html

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/3372119406.html

http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/3368394155.html

Aside from the obvious size and shapes, are there any major benefits to one vs. the other for my application? The smaller bench top style saves space (similar to Jack Olsen's), but how are they for both wood and metal? The taller bench top style seems to be more available in my area. The larger horizontal metal cutters are a bit on the pricey side for my budget.

Any and all feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott

 

[Outlawmws]

Metal requires a lot slower speeds than wood so if it is a high speed wood saw, you need to drop it from consideration, unless you are willing to retrofit a jack shift between the motor and the saw (easier on most older saws and probably not possible on a direct drive saw) Another option is to retrofit a treadmill motor to the saw and then it's variable speed...

 

[helterskelter]

I read the post title as band saw injuries :-/. So all I can offer is use adequate clamps. Do not try to hold stock. And it's hot coming off the saw , learned that 3x over now.

 

[vhol5]

All but the last one you posted are wood specific. Like Outlaw mentioned, a jackshaft would be needed to make it a metal saw. The last one you posted is a metal cutter, but a low end one. There is a lot you can do to improve those, as you'll find in numerous posts, so that might be a good option.

 

[TireTracks]

I am looking for a band saw and was wanting any an all opinions. I do more wood working than metal cutting, but I would like the option to cut more metal in the near future. There are quite a few used, older ones on craigslist in my area. I am hoping to pick up a long term duel use model. Here are just a few types in my neck of the woods:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/3384838822.html
I have one like this, manual says ok to cut thin metal, but No iron/steel etc. Not a bad saw for wood.
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/3370305166.html
This is the best bandsaw craftsman sold. Not to be used for metal cutting without the slow speed gearbox or some jackshaft setup. Also not a good idea to cut steel with it anyway.
http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/tls/3349990171.html
Not a bad saw, but Not for metal cutting and the blades will be hard to find. Also 1/4hp is not much.
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/3378787483.html
Run away.
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/3372119406.html
Also not a bad small saw, but alas it is not made for metal cutting, also blades will be hard to find.
http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/3368394155.html
The only metalcutting saw here, but it will not be good for woodworking, and horizontal bandsaws are used differently than a Vertical bandsaw.
Horizontal- sizeing metal stock in length, pretty much the thing they are good at.
Vertical, cutting shapes, sizeing to a point, wood and non-ferrous metal's( need to slow it down for this.They can cut steel but you need to slow it way way down. IIrc, 150fpm blade speed compared to 3000ish for wood.

Aside from the obvious size and shapes, are there any major benefits to one vs. the other for my application? The smaller bench top style saves space (similar to Jack Olsen's), but how are they for both wood and metal? The taller bench top style seems to be more available in my area. The larger horizontal metal cutters are a bit on the pricey side for my budget.

Any and all feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott

I would buy the 2nd craftsman if woodworking is your goal. Best one there. But I would not cut metal with it unless you run a gearbox/jackshaft and use Bimetal blades. Even then it will be working hard to cut any metal tougher than aluminum, and you could damage it.

I have the next grade up of the tilting head craftsmans( #1) on your list. It has a step pully, and the low speed is low enough to cut non-ferrous metals, but No steel/iron/SS. Not a bad saw though.

 

[zkling]

What do you want to cut with a band saw material type and stock shape?

There are two types of band saws in the metal world. The standard vertical, which is what most people think of when the word band saw is mentioned. Or the metal cut off style such as in your last link.

If you will be cutting stock at a 90 degree angles or the such definitely go with the horizontal band saw. The workhorse of a metal shop is usually a horizontal bandsaw.

Now a vertical band saw does come in handy for metal working, but would be second on my list, behind a horizontal.

None of the saws you posted are suitable for metal cutting. The best for the home shop is an older Delta wood metal 14" bandsaw. These had an integral gearbox to slow the saw down for metal cutting speed.

Although you could put a speed reducer on the saws you pictured. You will end up destroying the saw frame in short order. Those little saws were not designed with the frame stiffness necessary to properly tension a metal cutting blade.

For wood cutting only the second saw you posted (gold craftsman) is actually pretty nice.

Ultimately do you plan on cutting bar stock and tubing (horizontal bandsaw) or < 1/4" thick plate metal with contours?

 

[RCStocker]

Delta makes one that is 2 grand. They always have been way over priced.
I have 5 band saws. I have a wilton 14 inch 8 speed. They have 2 different models.
It will cut all metls and has a high speed for wood. If you can find a used one they are a great saw. I paid a grand for mine new 10 years ago. They have gone up sense then.

You can not convert a wood cutting bandsaw to metal. You can but it will cost more than it is worth.

I have a horizontal cut of bandsaw that is grat for pipe and angle iron when I cut to length.

There was a Delta 20 inch in New Jersey last week that was a metal cutting band saw with a nice blade welder installed. The buy now price was $800 and If I had been close I would have owned it. It is a six thousand dollar saw. The larger ones go for the same price or less than the smaller ones. Look on E bay and look up Wilton. The company makes lathes, Milling machine, vices and many other tools. Top drawer stuff.

Just remember when you start using oils and coolents on metal you wood working days are over. Oil and wood don't mix. Any oil on the table or blade will get onto your wood and you will have one hell of a time to get it to stain and take a finish. 14inch band saws are a dime a dozen. Even the good Delta ones can be found for $150. One in Texas sold on ebay last month for that amount. I would get one for wood then look for a nice metal cutting one. That will cost you about a grand new unless you get very lucky.

 

[rodknocker]

I have a JET vertical/horizontal bandsaw, cuts 6"X 6" horizontally, bought it new about 15yrs ago for around $400, I cut about 50/50 metal and wood, only replaced the blade on it a couple times. I'd recommend it to anyone.

 

[A_Pmech]

A nice used 16"DoAll or Grob, or a Powermatic 87, Powermatic 143 o Walker Turner with optional speed reduction gearbox are all good vertical contour saws depending on your requirements.

 

[SRX]

Thank you all for the generously detailed feedback! I have quite a bit of "googling" to do.

I will, realistically, be using the saw for more woodwork than metal. My main concern was space as my shed/shop is only 12' x 16' and pretty full. I already have a 10" Craftsman saw, 10" Craftsman drill press, 6" Craftsman bench grinder, and a 10" Delta chop saw. I am squirreling away some nuts for springtime; the girl ok'ed a 5' x 10' storage shed on the other side of the property....I just had to promise it would match the cedar fence and blend in. This will allow me to move out alot of the yard tools, mower, snow thrower, winter tires, etc., out of the main shed. I was wanting to make a metal side or corner for cutting, welding, banging around with a big hammer

Ultimately do you plan on cutting bar stock and tubing (horizontal bandsaw) or < 1/4" thick plate metal with contours?

Maybe I should be looking more at these two types? Just planning on cutting bar stock and tubing. Some motorcycle tinkering (older Honda CB's, cafes, ...) Smaller, more flexible with space/configuration.

http://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/3319361348.html

http://www.proscies.com/hyd_mech/Serrie Blue Line/portable-band-saw-hydmech-ph101.html

Once I get the shed cleared out, I really need to take some decent pics.
Again, thank you all for taking the time to respond.

 

[TireTracks]

Thank you all for the generously detailed feedback! I have quite a bit of "googling" to do.

I will, realistically, be using the saw for more woodwork than metal. My main concern was space as my shed/shop is only 12' x 16' and pretty full. I already have a 10" Craftsman saw, 10" Craftsman drill press, 6" Craftsman bench grinder, and a 10" Delta chop saw. I am squirreling away some nuts for springtime; the girl ok'ed a 5' x 10' storage shed on the other side of the property....I just had to promise it would match the cedar fence and blend in. This will allow me to move out alot of the yard tools, mower, snow thrower, winter tires, etc., out of the main shed. I was wanting to make a metal side or corner for cutting, welding, banging around with a big hammer



Maybe I should be looking more at these two types? Just planning on cutting bar stock and tubing. Some motorcycle tinkering (older Honda CB's, cafes, ...) Smaller, more flexible with space/configuration.

http://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/3319361348.html

http://www.proscies.com/hyd_mech/Serrie Blue Line/portable-band-saw-hydmech-ph101.html

Once I get the shed cleared out, I really need to take some decent pics.
Again, thank you all for taking the time to respond.

A both of those would be ok for small metal sizeing, but they won't do curves in wood very well.

 

[zkling]

I would highly advise against the chop / abrasive saw. They do on the other hand make great boat anchors They are dirty, loud, get abrasive dust everywhere, only limited to ferrous metals (disclaimer, usually). But they are fast.

Just peaking at your local craigslist, based on the ones you linked to....

Maybe check a few of these out. Not sure what your budget is, but...

No pic, but could be a good deal if it truly is the wood/metal version

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/tls/3374931982.html

Wood / aluminum only http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/3373082153.html

Nice saw http://southcoast.craigslist.org/tls/3323011215.html

http://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/3375174161.html

http://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/3351109136.html

probably best deal http://capecod.craigslist.org/tls/3363930555.html

Great wood setup

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/3387913804.html

Ultimate

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/3373181467.html

but I think his price is a little high FOR ME (I am extremely cheap, and paid $37.50 for my W/M delta b.s.) Granted it was not nearly as in good shape, but I could live with it for $37.50

Then try to find one of these locally for sale (should be ~$125-150 MAX).

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

And I think you will be set for metal cutting.

I can't tell you how frustrating trying to have one saw for both wood and metal is. In the beginning it sounds like a great idea... Until you try it.

What I did and can recommend is to find two old solid cast iron vertical band saws minimum of 14". Slow one down dedicated for metal cutting and keep the other for wood. Then purchase a horizontal 4x6 bandsaw for metal cutoff. If you keep a close eye on craigslist you should be able to obtain all
3 for under $500.

One tip... When attempting to slow down the wood vertical for metal look for a 30:1 gear box, very common on rototillers. Don't bother with multiple belts and drive shafts.

Best of luck, I remember the days when I was in your boat.

P.S. If you really feel that contouring sheetmetal is heavy in your future, you may want to consider a plasma cutter.