So I was motivated by some of the cool threads about air compressor after coolers when I started using my brand new da sander and water was shooting out of it like a squirt gun. Any ways I bought a b&m oil cooler, a 9" 12 volt 800 cfm fan and a 120-220v ac to dc converter off ebay to run the fan. Anyways Im extatic with the results. Running the compressor for fifteen minutes straight and the copper tube right out of the cooler is still cool to the touch. I dont think however my Husky/campbell hausfeld filter is catching as much water as it could be. Just wondering if you guys had a recomendation of a good water trap to use just after the cooler. I know it might be a stretch but im on a bit of a budget and would like to stay under or right around $100. Thanks for the recommendations. Here is a pic of the work in progress.
Built an aircompresor after cooler, need water trap now?
- Thread starter ls1jay
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firebox40dash5
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Have a Sharpe 8130 (F88) on the shop compressor. I get a few ounces off it every morning when I turn the compressor on. I almost never get anything out of the drain at my air hose, but I am at almost the opposite end (100'ish) of the shop.
GeneralDisorder
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If you mount the aftercooler behind the compressor sheave you won't need the fan. You don't need a water trap after the cooler - just put a float drain or timed drain on the tank. With cool air going into the tank the water will condense at the bottom instead of remaining in the air. The whole point of the aftercooler (or a refrigerated dryer) is to lower the temp or the air and thus the ability of the air to carry moisture.
GD
GD
PsRumors
Well-known member
I think I have one of those coolers in storage. Great idea. One question, how far off the wall is the cooler? Looks like it may be close enough to the wall that airflow could be limited.
Chadwilliam1
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Strouty
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Is that oil cooler safe to use with that pressure? I would be interested in making one, but not if it has the potential to explode when least expected. I like the idea.
I realize what you are saying and I thought about just building a simple trap, but I figure If Its possible to keep most of the water from ever getting to the tank than why not?
This particular b&m cooler is rated to 200psi and all connections are brazed. I dont see why it would fail.
Im getting some, but not near as much. My filter right out of the after cooler has about an inch of water in it after about ten minutes of run time. While the compressor is running its amazing seeing how much water is going through and into this filter, but I think with the high air velocity alot of droplets are still whizzing by the filter into the tank.
Its closer to the wall than I would have liked but its what I have to work with. Performance doesnt seem to be affected at all.
IIRC those cheap filters from TSC Home Depot/Lowes etc are all the same CH filter element. They are 5 micron if I remember - which from my research was the smallest you wanted to go without restricting the airflow too much, and really not that bad of a filter.
The velocity of the air wouldn't matter as much as droplet size - the product is obviously working. To get more water out you need to condense it further by lowering the temp, which is impossible with your setup.
You are doing the lions share of the work with the way you have it set up - if you want more you'll either need a powered drier or put another filter at the end of the line before your tool hooks into the hose.
The velocity of the air wouldn't matter as much as droplet size - the product is obviously working. To get more water out you need to condense it further by lowering the temp, which is impossible with your setup.
You are doing the lions share of the work with the way you have it set up - if you want more you'll either need a powered drier or put another filter at the end of the line before your tool hooks into the hose.
buening
Well-known member
Look into a Norgren Excelon filter with the automatic drain. I have them on my system and they work pretty good. I'm not using them on aftercoolers, but rather after the length of piping before the air hose reel. Mine are filter/regulator combos, but in your case you probably don't want the regulator. It has a float system in the filter bowl (see pictures in first ebay link), so when water gets high enough the float rises and water will seep out the bottom of the bowl. The fitting has threads, so you can plumb the water to a catch or outside.
One on ebay but with 1/2" fittings:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NORGREN...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item20c468df25
One you'd probably find better with 3/4" fittings:
Norgren specs:
http://store.norgren.com/us/en/deta...o-drain/brand-is-excelon/f74g_6an_ad3/filters
Ebay auctions:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norgren-Lub...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item2c5d33f69f
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NORGREN-F74...t=BI_Control_Systems_PLCs&hash=item4d021bb7ec
Edit: One thing to watch is operating temps for these drains. Norgren specs allowing 175°F temps, so with an aftercooler you might get too high of temps to use something like this. Might take temps of the aftercooler piping to make sure they aren't that high.
One on ebay but with 1/2" fittings:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NORGREN...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item20c468df25
One you'd probably find better with 3/4" fittings:
Norgren specs:
http://store.norgren.com/us/en/deta...o-drain/brand-is-excelon/f74g_6an_ad3/filters
Ebay auctions:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norgren-Lub...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item2c5d33f69f
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NORGREN-F74...t=BI_Control_Systems_PLCs&hash=item4d021bb7ec
Edit: One thing to watch is operating temps for these drains. Norgren specs allowing 175°F temps, so with an aftercooler you might get too high of temps to use something like this. Might take temps of the aftercooler piping to make sure they aren't that high.
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FluxCore
Well-known member
I needed an air compressor that I could roll around and use just for my plasma cutter...It needed to produce really dry, clean air.
I had an old Curtis cast iron 2 HP unit with 23 gal tank that turned out to be perfect for the job. I rebuilt the compressor and built a rollaround frame, then went to work adding the necessary drying/filtering components.
I got really lucky and snagged a refrigerated air dryer out of the trash at work...It had a tiny gas leak that was easily repaired, so I mounted it atop the compressor frame. Not seen in the photo is the electronic auto blowdown and MotorGuard M-100 1 micron filter.
I had an old Curtis cast iron 2 HP unit with 23 gal tank that turned out to be perfect for the job. I rebuilt the compressor and built a rollaround frame, then went to work adding the necessary drying/filtering components.
I got really lucky and snagged a refrigerated air dryer out of the trash at work...It had a tiny gas leak that was easily repaired, so I mounted it atop the compressor frame. Not seen in the photo is the electronic auto blowdown and MotorGuard M-100 1 micron filter.
brianpgriset
Well-known member
This is the key. You need to reduce there air velocity to let the water drop out. I'll post a pick of my drip leg when i get home. I made it out of pipe fittings from the hardware store.
These look like they might be a good choice, but the listings im seeing arent real detailed on the specs... Is there somewhere else to look that shows some more detail.
Iv been looking at all the different recommendations iv been given and am seeing some likely candidates, but Im wondering if maybe there is a centrifugal filter in my price range or close. Anyone have any experience with those? Iv searched ebay and grainger and what not and cant seem to find any.
dirtydogintex
Well-known member
Have you read the Norgren datasheet?
http://resources.norgren.com/document_resources/pdf/Filters.pdf
It's pretty informative including how the filters work (re: Section 1.1.1).
After skimming the datasheet, something in the back of my head's trying to remind me
it's possible not only to undersize the filter but also oversize it.... but I won't swear to it ATPIT....
Performance will suffer in either case.
The datasheet discusses plastic v. metal bowls.
The increased cost of a metal bowl is very cheap insurance when it comes to exploding bowls.... and
plastic bowls will fail sooner or later.
You're not running hard PVC (domestic water pipe) air lines are you?
~~~~~~~
I was looking for a small air drier system (water separator) years ago.
A local sand blast equipment manufacturer tried to sell me his static element air filters (water separators) instead.
He said sand blasters were using them on their blast rigs because of
the lower initial and operating costs while
his static element air filters would knock out as much water as the more expensive refrigerated units.
Anyone run across this type of water separator?
http://resources.norgren.com/document_resources/pdf/Filters.pdf
It's pretty informative including how the filters work (re: Section 1.1.1).
After skimming the datasheet, something in the back of my head's trying to remind me
it's possible not only to undersize the filter but also oversize it.... but I won't swear to it ATPIT....
Performance will suffer in either case.
The datasheet discusses plastic v. metal bowls.
The increased cost of a metal bowl is very cheap insurance when it comes to exploding bowls.... and
plastic bowls will fail sooner or later.
You're not running hard PVC (domestic water pipe) air lines are you?
~~~~~~~
I was looking for a small air drier system (water separator) years ago.
A local sand blast equipment manufacturer tried to sell me his static element air filters (water separators) instead.
He said sand blasters were using them on their blast rigs because of
the lower initial and operating costs while
his static element air filters would knock out as much water as the more expensive refrigerated units.
Anyone run across this type of water separator?
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brianpgriset
Well-known member
Here is the one I made up:
Mounted:
Note I ended up swapping the PVC tube for a sight glass. I get lots of water out of it.
Mounted:
Note I ended up swapping the PVC tube for a sight glass. I get lots of water out of it.
Here is the one I made up:
Mounted:
Note I ended up swapping the PVC tube for a sight glass. I get lots of water out of it.
I saw that in one of the threads I was reading before I started this project. I like it a lot. Does it seem to be pretty effective. Is that 3/4 or 1 inch pipe. I bet the bigger pipe really slows down the velocity of the
air to let the water fall out
brianpgriset
Well-known member
It's 1-1/2". The drip leg is upstream of the tank and then a 5 micron filter. I get very little out either one so its doing its job.