Homemade Toolbox Bottom Construction

[cattleranchmarch]

First off I am new to this forum. I have been reading for a while and decided to join; thanks for all you guy's wealth of knowledge. I am in the process of designing a rolling toolbox bottom to put underneath my Craftsman chest. I didn't like any of the ones that you could buy and so I decided to build my own, despite the work it will take. These are my inspiration:
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?21908-Homemade-Tool-Chest
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132054
My box right now is the photos attached so you guys can get a picture of my setup (top: pliers & such, drawer 1: screwdrivers/nutdrivers, drawer 2: wrenches, drawer 3: 3/8 & 1/4 sockets, drawer 4: 1/2 sockets & hammers). My question is how do you build a lock / latching system for the drawers on a rolling box? Thanks in advance.

 

[2mJps]

I have though about building a box but i have to much going on and the cost would be close to the price of a good box. I would look at some to see how their locks work. Good luck it will be a good prodject.

 

[cattleranchmarch]

I have though about building a box but i have to much going on and the cost would be close to the price of a good box. I would look at some to see how their locks work. Good luck it will be a good prodject.

Thanks the only thing I have seen is a rail that hooks on the back on the drawers. The part that I can't figure out is how to lift them up and down using the key lock.

 

[rsanter]

What about the new ones is not to your liking?
Drawer configuration?

I took a 40'' cman bottom box that I got as a dent and scratch model, moved the drawers around and swapped drawers with a full depth top box that was a clearance unit so I could have a box with mostly thin drawers to hold precision measuring stuff and some overflow tooling

Bob

 

[madjack]

Built this a few years ago for a specialty job site. Used a Vidmar that was cut in half for the drawers. The outside structure is 10g mild steel, with a 3/16 XA top

 

[racingtadpole]

I have a couple of drawers out of my commercially made one at the moment (long story involving a benchtop drill press and gravity) and can see roughly how the lock works. It has a lever off the back of the key lock which rotates a U shape rod that transfers the motion to the back of the box. The back end of the U shape rod is attached to a flat bar that moves up and down. The flat bar has sections pressed out into a tab that drops into a pressing on the rear of the drawer.
Turn the key the lever rotates clockwise, the U shape rod rotates and pulls the flat bar up drawing the tabs up out of the pockets on the back of the drawer.

Hope thats of some use to you.

 

[raddksn]

here's mine got the cabnet from a buddy that is office furneture mover they were throwing them out dozzens of them I made the dividers from 3/8" plywood with some small alu. angle for the sliders

 

[KCarGuy]

I build my own.
I had a large heavy steel box with a hinged Lid laying around, along with some heavy tubular legs.
Its a Beast...that will last anything that can be thrown at it for Years and Years.
I love that Tool Cart!

 

[nine4gmc]

I posted mine in post #30 of that second link, I have a box pan brake now so the next one will be easier. Be sure to post up progress!

 

[Zeke]

I have a couple of drawers out of my commercially made one at the moment (long story involving a benchtop drill press and gravity) and can see roughly how the lock works. It has a lever off the back of the key lock which rotates a U shape rod that transfers the motion to the back of the box. The back end of the U shape rod is attached to a flat bar that moves up and down. The flat bar has sections pressed out into a tab that drops into a pressing on the rear of the drawer.
Turn the key the lever rotates clockwise, the U shape rod rotates and pulls the flat bar up drawing the tabs up out of the pockets on the back of the drawer.

Hope thats of some use to you.

That's how mine works. It's a complicated device made from simple materials. Just a lot of work to make it functional. I'd think about making a more simple locking device in the front, like a flat bar and a padlock. It's nice that the factory made tool boxes have blind locks, but they are nothing a crowbar can't handle in short order.

 

[sberry]

here's mine got the cabnet from a buddy that is office furneture mover they were throwing them out dozzens of them

That I like, simple, good, cheap, a commercial deal costing hundreds or more wouldnt be any better.

 

[cattleranchmarch]

I have a couple of drawers out of my commercially made one at the moment (long story involving a benchtop drill press and gravity) and can see roughly how the lock works. It has a lever off the back of the key lock which rotates a U shape rod that transfers the motion to the back of the box. The back end of the U shape rod is attached to a flat bar that moves up and down. The flat bar has sections pressed out into a tab that drops into a pressing on the rear of the drawer.
Turn the key the lever rotates clockwise, the U shape rod rotates and pulls the flat bar up drawing the tabs up out of the pockets on the back of the drawer.

Hope thats of some use to you.

Thanks, that really helps. That is exactly what I was looking for.

 

[cattleranchmarch]

I posted mine in post #30 of that second link, I have a box pan brake now so the next one will be easier. Be sure to post up progress!

I like your work on that project. I'll have to remember to take photos while I'm building it; sometimes I forget then wish I had of taken them.

 

[racingtadpole]

Thanks, that really helps. That is exactly what I was looking for.

Just for giggles I popped the top drawer out to see how they secured the long side of the U rod to provide the pivot. Its cheap and nasty. A tab at each end with a rubber grommet in it.
I think I'd be tempted to use some nylon blocks.

 

[jamesc]

My home toolbox is in rough shape, the paint is faded and scratched, and it has a drawer layout that I hate. so I was thinking of rearranging and making a new full width drawer then paint the whole thing. How are people securing their slides? with rivits or spot welding?

 

[racingtadpole]

My home toolbox is in rough shape, the paint is faded and scratched, and it has a drawer layout that I hate. so I was thinking of rearranging and making a new full width drawer then paint the whole thing. How are people securing their slides? with rivits or spot welding?

The Sidchrome one I have drawers out of at the moment has tabs in the front and rear of the slide that lock into pockets on the inside of the cabinet structure, they then have a single pop rivet to stop them from disengaging. Cheap and nasty. The older Rota top box I have has the slides bolted in.

 

[cattleranchmarch]

Just for giggles I popped the top drawer out to see how they secured the long side of the U rod to provide the pivot. Its cheap and nasty. A tab at each end with a rubber grommet in it.
I think I'd be tempted to use some nylon blocks.

Yeah, I can guarantee it will a bit more durable than that. In response to the drawer slide question I am planning on either welding the things in solid or riveting them in. I lean towards welding them in.

 

[sberry]

One reason I like some of these. Spending beyond means doesnt impress me, some people can truly afford a 10 grand box and it isnt going to eat their lunch every day and then some.

I know several career mechanics that got along just fine with simple cheap sears or stackon stuff. I got a bud or 2 that worked at dealership where they all try to impress each other but also a couple of the best I know figured out early on, get real stuff they need when they need it, a couple stuck with certain brand when they were in stores and one of the best has a set of hand tools about as minmal as I seen, probably everthing he owns in hand tools wouldnt bring 75 bucks at a good yard sale.

Ownes 3 ratchets and about 30 sockets, a couple dozen end wrenches. He can do but doesnt face hard *** pounding work every day, dont need to. Over 30 yrs can recall on one hand where he couldnt put his finger on a solvable mechanical/electrical/control problem.

Still got bits of screwdrivers and a set of pliers or 2 he probably had when he was a kid, most of it looks like it came as prizes in a cereal box, I see a set of sockets he had in my shop for a job spilled out on floor, the stuff came in a tin tray for 4.95, there must have been something in there he didnt have and needed, ha, didnt seem to care much about the rest.

Other day had a problem with a boiler system, didnt call the plumber. Didnt call electrician. Called my bud the tv repair man. Not a perfectionist, not overly complicated but really good trouble shooting skills, its impressive sometimes, put his finger right on the problem. Really would shine as a dealer mechanic, wouldnt like the environment.

 

[sberry]

I got a different skill set but I admire some of those people, sift thru pages of drawings, hundreds of wires, thats why I called with the boiler, gobs of wires and controls from 40 yr old unit, computer or circuit board not all that far from a *********.

The part I admire here is when something fits, hence the salvage, sometimes the ppoint of all this is to save money and change your world, no good if it isnt practical and affordable.

 

[ibedayank]

might find this usefull...
http://reference.toolandfab.com/writeups/mxtras-cabinets/index.htm

 

[thaxboyd]

I posted mine in post #30 of that second link, I have a box pan brake now so the next one will be easier. Be sure to post up progress!

I would to see your brake.....

 

[cattleranchmarch]

Thanks everybody for your help in this endeavor! I was at Home Depot on black Friday and they had a stainless steel combo on sale that met my criteria. Needless to say it was about the same cost as it was going to cost to build one so I picked it up. I am going to take some pictures of the stuff I was struggling to figure out how to do so that someone else in the future can have the resources.

 

[nine4gmc]

I would to see your brake.....

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168571