recommendations on a battery tester?

[jethrob]

Hi Everyone. Long time lurker first time poster.

Looking to upgrade my old HF carbon pile battery tester with one of the newer style digital ones.

Anyone recommendations?

Accuracy is VERY important to me. I've had a tough time trusting the newer ones so looking for one that has a good reputation. I want to be able to trust it.

Would rather purchase a good one the first time than a POS that is inaccurate.

 

[KenC]

You might want to reconsider 'upgrading'. I've had two batteries in the last year that failed to start the vehicle. Both cars demonstrated other weird, intermittent symptoms that appeared to be caused by the BCM.

In both cases the batteries tested OK, using the state of the art testers when I submitted the for warranty consideration. But, both failed when tested with my 'old school' tester.

And, both vehicle's symptoms disappeared when the batteries were replaced.

Don't know if was a fluke, a problem with the individual tester, or maybe a design flaw of the tester type. But, I'll choose not to upgrade.

 

[FiendFX]

Bluepoint battery tester is good and affordable. Its non-conductant though.

 

[Provincial]

I also have had an experience where a state-of-the-art tester failed to find the problem with a battery that left my wife stranded three times. I took it to the local quality tire shop and they reported it to be in good condition after each failure. I finally made them replace the battery anyway, since it was four years old and a factory unit. I didn't test the battery with my HF carbon pile tester, so I can't say if it would have found the problem.

 

[jethrob]

ok now yall are scaring me.

I too didn't trust them in the past but heard they had improved and were better.

The blue point one says it uses conductance.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682185&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[jethrob]

I think I'm going to buy one anyways. I'll still keep the hydrometer and load tester.

The main thing I'm after is to check to see how used up a battery is.

I want to keep it around $200ish.

Leaning towards the blue point or the midtronics 300.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682185&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://www.tooltopia.com/midtronics-pbt300.aspx

 

[DoubleA]

I bought the Solar BA7 tester and have Liked it alot. It's very fast and as for accuracy, I tested it against the shops midtronics units and the vat40 and it's within 2 cca of the expensive testers. I sell more batterys than anyone else in the shop because of this tool. it's so light,portable and fast I can test every battery that looks old or car that cranks slow. They go for about $75

 

[shampoop]

You might want to reconsider 'upgrading'. I've had two batteries in the last year that failed to start the vehicle. Both cars demonstrated other weird, intermittent symptoms that appeared to be caused by the BCM.

In both cases the batteries tested OK, using the state of the art testers when I submitted the for warranty consideration. But, both failed when tested with my 'old school' tester.

And, both vehicle's symptoms disappeared when the batteries were replaced.

Don't know if was a fluke, a problem with the individual tester, or maybe a design flaw of the tester type. But, I'll choose not to upgrade.

+1

The only advantage to the modern fancy testers is that they can test a battery that is not fully charged. However, assuming a battery is fully or nearly fully charged, if it fails an old school load test it's dead. period. No doubting the test. The new fancy testers are often quirky. For example, in my experiences, even if the tester has a mode for remote mounted batteries (anywhere but the engine bay) and you test from the jumper posts in the engine bay, it most of the time fails the battery even if it's brand new.

Plus the age of the battery is a very reliable component. If a battery that is over 4 years old fails a test of any kind, it's dead. If it's newer than that, that's when you have justification to start doubting your tester.

 

[Danglerb]

People who buy used batteries like the conductance type testers as they give a good idea of the CCA even if the battery has less than a full charge. The Solar SA7 looks good for $60 at Amazon.

What is the purpose of your testing and why is accuracy a factor, or do you mean reliable good/bad?

My only test is to charge a battery, remove the charger, put a small load on it for a minute, remove the load and measure the voltage with a DMM. Anything much below about 12.5v seems to cause trouble in our Lincoln, so it gets replaced.

 

[richfinn]

I,ve tested around 1800 batteries over the last 5 years using a midtronics unit and made a few observations and modifications to my test routine.

1. Battery voltage must be above 12.2v before it will test accurately.

2. If badly discharged I will run the car for 20 mins to get some charge then remove surface charge for 2 mins (I ignore the 10 secs the unit asks for as its insufficient).

3. The most important step is to check the initial voltage on the non starter, 90% of the time I already know if the unit will pass or fail the battery.

4. Watching how fast and how far the voltage drops when removing surface charge is also a good indicator of battery condition.

Like any tool there is a learning curve, but the advantage for us is that we dont have to fully charge batteries to test them, and we can test AGM batteries at the roadside.

The unit I use also analyses the charging system ripple and has a port for an amp clamp.

 

[jethrob]

What is the purpose of your testing and why is accuracy a factor, or do you mean reliable good/bad?

I'm hoping to pear into the future a little bit. I can tell if a battery can crank or not easy enough without any gadgets.
I work on boats, and don't' want folks to have to deal with needing to purchase a battery mid season. It's not about sales but more about prevention.

I'm wanting a tester to say more than pass/fail....percentage used up would be nice. It seems as batteries age their capacity is reduced and it is harder for them to take a charge. If I can test and say "your battery still works, but is only working at 55% capacity and may fail soon" it might be easier for folks to go ahead and replace it rather than deal with any frustrations. Main thing is I don't want to see anyone broke down or caused any inconvenience by a crappy battery.
Boat batteries are almost neglected and poorly maintained.

 

[sdguy55]

Those big carbon pile testers that load the battery down for 15 secs are the best in my opinion

 

[FiendFX]

ok now yall are scaring me.

I too didn't trust them in the past but heard they had improved and were better.

The blue point one says it uses conductance.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682185&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

this the one i got.. i meant it doesn't use carbon pile

 

[theoldwizard1]

IMHO, battery tester are not worth the money you pay for them. All you really need is a DMM.

Simple steps to test a battery

• Clean the outside with baking soda and water, Rinse well.
• Use a good trickle charger and charge for at least 12 hours (24 is better).
• Remove charger. Check voltage. It should be at least 13.2V
• Turn on headlights for about 10-15 minutes
• Check voltage. It should be at least 11.4V. If less, your battery is on the way out.

Save your money on the battery tester and get a good 2 stage battery charger.

 

[geezer48]

find an old vat-40 wish i had one

 

[Danglerb]

Most of these new testers will work fine at telling you there condition now. Guys I know that live in AZ tell me NOTHING will predict when a battery croaks from heat. Start it up, drive to the store, dead dead dead.

Something like the SA7 you could toss in your toolbag and quickly get an idea of how much capacity is left in the battery, which sounds like what you want. For a boat I think 100% I would invest in a decent cheap booster pack for the time the battery suddenly fails.

 

[bob15]

Have you looked at Associated Equipment? Most everything they sell is US made and is well made. Look at the 6034 tester.

http://associatedequip.com/#all

bob

 

[richfinn]

I like and trust my Midtronics, the odd time it tells me to bench charge and retest (maybe 1/100 times).

It speeds things up and some versions are VAG/Ford approved for warranty

 

[redwrench60]

IMHO, battery tester are not worth the money you pay for them. All you really need is a DMM.

Simple steps to test a battery

• Clean the outside with baking soda and water, Rinse well.
• Use a good trickle charger and charge for at least 12 hours (24 is better).
• Remove charger. Check voltage. It should be at least 13.2V
• Turn on headlights for about 10-15 minutes
• Check voltage. It should be at least 11.4V. If less, your battery is on the way out.

Save your money on the battery tester and get a good 2 stage battery charger.

If you were a customer that just got towed in with a no crank condition would you be willing to wait 24 hours and 15 minutes to find out if it's "just a battery"? The modern testers can be quirky but they are fast. We do have wi-fi and doughnuts in the waiting room though so.........

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you were a customer that just got towed in with a no crank condition would you be willing to wait 24 hours and 15 minutes to find out if it's "just a battery"? The modern testers can be quirky but they are fast.

I do understand this situation. If the battery is already dead, you can 1) sell them a new battery, 2) try a quick charge and test or 3) give the customer a loaner battery and charge over night.

 

[redwrench60]

I do understand this situation. If the battery is already dead, you can 1) sell them a new battery, 2) try a quick charge and test or 3) give the customer a loaner battery and charge over night.

Yeah, if the battery is older some people opt for a new one without even testing the old one. When working on vehicles under warranty we are required to show a failed test with a code generated by the tester for claim submission. Mostly a test is performed, then maybe a quick charge then a retest is sufficient. Above all people expect fast service. They won't wait through too much of us screwing around.
We couldn't possibly keep and maintain a fleet of loaner batteries to fit all models let alone try to get them back from people. Getting the loaner CARS back quickly is hard enough.

 

[jethrob]

Yeah, if the battery is older some people opt for a new one without even testing the old one. When working on vehicles under warranty we are required to show a failed test with a code generated by the tester for claim submission. Mostly a test is performed, then maybe a quick charge then a retest is sufficient. Above all people expect fast service. They won't wait through too much of us screwing around.
We couldn't possibly keep and maintain a fleet of loaner batteries to fit all models let alone try to get them back from people. Getting the loaner CARS back quickly is hard enough.

well said.

Mainly looking for something to back me up on an older neglected battery and a way I can easily show and help convince a customer that the battery is going to cause problems.

Assoicated elctrnoics looks nice but also looks very pricey.

Figured out who was making the snap on and blue point testers. ATD.

http://atdtools.com/5490

Look familiar?

 

[jethrob]

I'll also would like to say I like the testers that list CCA. A problem you run into with outboards sometimes is a no start or hard start condition caused by the motor spinning to slow. Some engines won't even fire if your voltage drops below 10.5 at the engine. You then have to decide if it's the battery or the starting circuit.
A lot of your motors have specs on min CCA required.

 

[jethrob]

I mean snap on makes it!

LOL seriously who's is tester is this?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682185&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://techno-tools.com/b500.html

http://atdtools.com/5491

 

[jethrob]

dang found another brand of that same tester!

Is it that good? Everyone wants to call it their own lol.

http://www.gradeatools.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FJC-45150&gclid=CK6OmYvH_bMCFcsWMgodMBgAIA

 

[6-Speed]

Have you looked at Associated Equipment? Most everything they sell is US made and is well made. Look at the 6034 tester.

http://associatedequip.com/#all

bob

Their model 6034 is imported per their catalog and resembles the HF carbon pile tester. Their high dollar testers are made in the USA.

 

[6-Speed]

People who buy used batteries like the conductance type testers as they give a good idea of the CCA even if the battery has less than a full charge. The Solar SA7 looks good for $60 at Amazon.

I just purchased a Solar BA7; looks like a pretty capable device for the price.

 

[Rezeppa]

I agree on Associated. Other guys have the Associated version and it is just the most fool proof way to test a battery. I have an old Snap-On YA271 which isn't made anymore but is the same thing as the 125 amp load tester. I strongly recommend not going digital unless its a Midtronics. The digital testers don't work very well in my experience unless you go real high dollar.