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Split outlets still okay?

darcyh

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Aug 27, 2010
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London Canada
Me again:

I want to install a new outlet in a bedroom I will be using as an office. The existing wall outlet that is convenient to use is on the same circuit as the ceiling light. Every time the laser printer fires up the ceiling light pulses for a moment. This drives me nuts...

As I can get into the wall from behind I would like to install a 'split' outlet running 14/3 to a dual gang 15 amp breaker.

Alternately, I could run a single 20 amp circuit with 12/2. The only thing is those darn 20 A decora outlets are relatively pricey. I also have a dual gang 15 amp breaker on hand.

Also will be running a telephone line. Can I run it along the same path as the new wire?

Thanks again folks.

Dave
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Yes, split outlets (aka coasted outlets), are still used and are okay. Make sure to break the tab on the hot side. You covered just about everything else- 3 conductor wire and double pole breaker.
 

Spudland_Dave

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Alternately, I could run a single 20 amp circuit with 12/2. The only thing is those darn 20 A decora outlets are relatively pricey. I also have a dual gang 15 amp breaker on hand.

Everybody I know...including pro installers just use regular (NEMA 5-15) 15A Recept's....Any true 20A device will have/should have a NEMA 5-20P on it anyways..
 

Norcal

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Yes, split outlets (aka coasted outlets), are still used and are okay. Make sure to break the tab on the hot side. You covered just about everything else- 3 conductor wire and double pole breaker.

Don't forget the AFCI requirements, pretty much everywhere that GFCI's are not required,requires a AFCI in a residence.
 

theoldwizard1

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Everybody I know...including pro installers just use regular (NEMA 5-15) 15A Recept's....Any true 20A device will have/should have a NEMA 5-20P on it anyways..

Good point ! I have never seen any device that comes from the factory with 5-20P !

Although the 5-20R are really HD ! Good for lots of cycles !!
 

Spudland_Dave

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Good point ! I have never seen any device that comes from the factory with 5-20P !

Although the 5-20R are really HD ! Good for lots of cycles !!

In my line of work, I have seen a few...but it sure is a rarity, maybe only a handful around...5-15 is crazy common and then it jumps to L5-30 as the "normal" plugs...after that we're in the world of 220.
 

Charles (in GA)

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As no one has pointed out yet, you do not need and are not required to have a 20 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit, UNLESS you use only one receptacle and no more. A standard DUPLEX receptacle like everyone is used to seeing is not one receptacle, but rather TWO receptacles, as defined by the code.

Personally, I'd run a new 20 amp circuit for the laser printer.

The other thing I've mentioned before, if you buy a commercial grade receptacle in both 15 amp and 20 amp, and bust the face off of it, you will find EXACTLY THE SAME inside in it. The receptacles manufacturers use the guts of a 20 amp with the sideways contact, and then cover it up with a 15 amp faceplate with only vertical slots.

You can see that in this Hubbell cutaway, but Leviton and Cooper do the same thing. However they charge you a dollar to a dollar and a half (retail) more for the 20 amp and its sideways slot.

Charles

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Charles (in GA)

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Don't forget the AFCI requirements, pretty much everywhere that GFCI's are not required,requires a AFCI in a residence.

AFCI is not required in existing installations if it is not already being used. The requirement for retrofitting of circuits for AFCI during replacement or repair does not go into effect until Jan 1 . 2014.

Charles
 
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Midnight_America

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Northern Illinois
darchyh: I see you're in Canada, so your codes may vary from my recommendations. I've been out of the business awhile, but I try to keep up with the Codes and to wire using normally accepted practices and common sense when I do my home wiring.
Here in the States, splits are permitted, but I don't know if I'd use it in your case. I suggest you run a dedicated 20A for the laser using 12g wire. Don't know Canada, but where I live the wires must be run in conduit. Non-metallic sheathed is a no no in my area.

I didn't see anyone address your phone line question, so I will. If you are running conduit for your new wiring, phone or data cable CAN NOT be inside that same conduit. That code is in place not only to prevent hum and interference on your telecom cables, it exists mainly due to the difference in thermal characteristics of AC cable and most data cable bought by the average weekend warrior. If your THHN were to have a catastrophic failure that melts its insulation, the possibilty exists that it may also melt through the insulation on the datacom cable and introduce AC current to every device connected to your data cable. That's not a good thing. If you're going to use NM cable for your new AC run, try to keep your phone/data lines at least a few inches (6" or more would be ideal) away from the NM cable. If your phone/data cable must cross paths with the NM, try to cross them at right angles..that angle helps nullify hum and interference the AC may introduce. Try to use shielded data cable if at all possible, trust me on that one.

New bedroom outlets here are required to be protected by AFCI's. I have no idea if your doing the wiring yourself or if you are having it inspected after installation. They're tough where I live, if an inspector comes to inspect something that I pulled a permit for, they check everything else, even though the official rules of the game state that they should only inspect things relating to the permit. I guess if it's worth doing, spend the time and money to do it right the first time. It saves a lot of extra work and grief down the road. My $0.02..been there...done that...learned from my mistakes....
 

pattenp

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AFCI is not required in existing installations if it is not already being used. The requirement for retrofitting of circuits for AFCI during replacement or repair does not go into effect until Jan 1 . 2014.

Charles

If he puts in a new circuit it needs to be AFCI.

Edit: The 2014 date is for receptacle replacement only 2011NEC 406.4(4). It the circuit is new, modified or extended is needs to be AFCI. 2011NEC 210.12(A)&(B)
 
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Spudland_Dave

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As no one has pointed out yet, you do not need and are not required to have a 20 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit, UNLESS you use only one receptacle and no more. A standard DUPLEX receptacle like everyone is used to seeing is not one receptacle, but rather TWO receptacles, as defined by the code.

Umm...I mentioned that in Post #3... :D :bounce:
 

Charles (in GA)

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darchyh: I see you're in Canada, so your codes may vary from my recommendations. I've been out of the business awhile, but I try to keep up with the Codes and to wire using normally accepted practices and common sense when I do my home wiring.
Here in the States, splits are permitted, but I don't know if I'd use it in your case. I suggest you run a dedicated 20A for the laser using 12g wire. Don't know Canada, but where I live the wires must be run in conduit. Non-metallic sheathed is a no no in my area.

I failed to notice that he is in Canada, makes all the code citing useless.

N. Ill - Chicago is unusual in the conduit requirement. Probably something to do with IBEW wanting more work :shocking: There may be a large city somewhere else that requires it, but I'm not aware of it, its certainly not the norm.

Charles
 

pattenp

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I failed to notice that he is in Canada, makes all the code citing useless.

N. Ill - Chicago is unusual in the conduit requirement. Probably something to do with IBEW wanting more work :shocking: There may be a large city somewhere else that requires it, but I'm not aware of it, its certainly not the norm.

Charles

Oh man.. what a waste of time. :lol_hitti
 
OP
D

darcyh

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London Canada
Gentlemen:

Thanks for the information. Canadian Electrical Code (for residential) is not much different than the U.S. Code; so quoting US code is very useful to me.

I am really **** about wiring; that why I asked the question.

When doing wiring I always comply with code and strive to exceed it when possible.

Given your suggestions, I'll run a dedicated 20A line with the proper 20A decora outlet since it will be the only thing on the circuit.

Thanks again.

Dave
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Gentlemen:

Thanks for the information. Canadian Electrical Code (for residential) is not much different than the U.S. Code; so quoting US code is very useful to me.

I am really **** about wiring; that why I asked the question.

When doing wiring I always comply with code and strive to exceed it when possible.

Given your suggestions, I'll run a dedicated 20A line with the proper 20A decora outlet since it will be the only thing on the circuit.

Thanks again.

Dave

As Charles already pointed out, you don't have to spend the xtra bucks on a 20a recep, if you will be using a DUPLEX recep. on a 20a circuit because it has 2 plugs in one. So, u can use a 15a duplex on a 20a circuit. If on the other hand, u use a recep. with a single plug on it, THEN u will have to use a 20a recep.
 

Norcal

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AFCI is not required in existing installations if it is not already being used. The requirement for retrofitting of circuits for AFCI during replacement or repair does not go into effect until Jan 1 . 2014.

Charles

You extend or add a circuit in a area in residence where AFCI's are required, that triggers the "need" to install em...
 

EricS

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Feb 26, 2011
Messages
80
Location
North Vancouver BC
Hi Dave,

Canadian Elec. Code 2009(expires 2012)

As to AFCI
26-722(f) branch circuits that supply receptacles installed in sleeping facilities of a dwelling unit shall be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter

of course if the room will not be used as a sleeping facility and strictly an office then there wouldn't be an issue.

Just a side note 30-104(a) basically states luminaires,lampholders and lighting track can't be protected by overcurrent devices rated or set at greater than15A in a dwelling unit.I belive our American friends don't have this rule but need one of them to correct or confirm what I've heard.

Based on what you've said I would most likely run the split circuit upgrading from 14/3 to 12/3(not required but my personal thing) with split 15A breakers one for the light and the one outlet and the other for the laser printer.Should you change what the room will be used for you've still have 2 outlets
 
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