kngelv
Well-known member
36" to the front and 30" to the side must be clear according to the NEC.
James
James
2 car garage heating opinions???
- Thread starter Steve91T
- Start date
Ok, I need to move the heater. I guess I can move it more towards the garage door.
My reason for mounting it so high is because I want to be able to run the heater with the race car in its spot, which is fairly close to the wall. Plus, my plan for the garage is to keep everything off the floor. That also includes the bottom half of the wall. The heater mounted lower would be in the way. To be honest, I didn't realize it needed to be mounted so low. I was planning ok mounting it even higher.
I forgot to mention that I am going to buy a fan to mount above the heater. The two will be used together.
My reason for mounting it so high is because I want to be able to run the heater with the race car in its spot, which is fairly close to the wall. Plus, my plan for the garage is to keep everything off the floor. That also includes the bottom half of the wall. The heater mounted lower would be in the way. To be honest, I didn't realize it needed to be mounted so low. I was planning ok mounting it even higher.
I forgot to mention that I am going to buy a fan to mount above the heater. The two will be used together.
Maybe I'll move the heater to the other side of the garage, opposite of it's location now. It would be a lot more work running the gas line, but it might be a better location. Btw, the instructions don't mention the best location, it just mentions the minimum requirements.
Btw, that stuff on the floor on the right side of the garage is being organized this weekend. The hood is going on the car, and everything else will be hung up high on the wall.
Btw, that stuff on the floor on the right side of the garage is being organized this weekend. The hood is going on the car, and everything else will be hung up high on the wall.
Last edited:
Plump
Well-known member
Never a bad idea to have a CO and CO2 monitor. My CO monitor has never gone off. Don't buy the fan that they sell with this heater. Does nothing in my opinion. I just have a small $5 fan clipped above it and a ceiling fan. The whole 2.5 car garage I have can get really toasty on the coldest day here in WI with that set up.
As far as proximity to the breaker box, I have no opinion but I would certainly follow code. The sides don't get that hot but the front does. I never understand the "don't have ignition source nearby". This is already ignited! Obviously, combustibles should be nowhere near it but the breaker box? But, code is code and should be closely followed.
As far as proximity to the breaker box, I have no opinion but I would certainly follow code. The sides don't get that hot but the front does. I never understand the "don't have ignition source nearby". This is already ignited! Obviously, combustibles should be nowhere near it but the breaker box? But, code is code and should be closely followed.
GreyOwl
Well-known member
Just move the ladder to the other side and mount the heater where the ladder was. Simple and shorter pipe run too. Use the fan to move the heat wherever you need it.
Listen man, I'm sure the electric heater has minimum space requirements so finding a space for the heater is going to take some planning no matter what flavor it is. Running 220 to the electric is going to be a PITA just like the gas line will be. I'm going to get a cheap oscillating wall mounted fan to help more the hit air around. Plus it'll be good to have the fan for the summer months. The fans that come with the heaters ****.
I really don't understand what your problem is. I wrote a long explanation to you as to why I made the decision I made.
I'm going to run the gas line myself and have it inspected to make sure everything is kosher. I would love some help with doing this. I've never run a gas line before and I think it's about time to learn. I hope you guys can help me.
Maybe I should start a new thread.
I really don't understand what your problem is. I wrote a long explanation to you as to why I made the decision I made.
I'm going to run the gas line myself and have it inspected to make sure everything is kosher. I would love some help with doing this. I've never run a gas line before and I think it's about time to learn. I hope you guys can help me.
Maybe I should start a new thread.
Yes it is! He came out this morning and hooked it up. $225 for parts and labor, more than I wanted to spend, but it'll be cheap to operate.
So, first impressions. Wow does this thing put out some heat! The cool thing is I can use it even though its close to the car. The heat all goes up, not out.
I also installed a temp/humidity monitor along with a CO monitor. What's crazy is even with no fan, it takes the chill out of the air, making it so comfortable!
So far I love it. More info to come tomorrow.
So, first impressions. Wow does this thing put out some heat! The cool thing is I can use it even though its close to the car. The heat all goes up, not out.
I also installed a temp/humidity monitor along with a CO monitor. What's crazy is even with no fan, it takes the chill out of the air, making it so comfortable!
So far I love it. More info to come tomorrow.
Fueler
Well-known member
If I may.... build a guard box around that regulator and line. Waaay to exposed to jacks, tools, cutting tools and "stuff happens", etc.
They installed a T fitting where the gas line comes into the garage, and before the regulator for the water heater. I just looked it up, it says for NG, an external regulator is required to drop pressure to no greater than 10.5 inches of water.
I think it must be regulated to .5 psi no matter if its NG or LP
I think it must be regulated to .5 psi no matter if its NG or LP
Woodsrider
Active member
How did you come to this conclusion?
Burning a cubic meter of natural gas or propane will produce enough water to be measured in pounds. It is not a myth.
Most of the heat released from natural gas or propane comes from the hydrogen atom reacting with the oxygen. This produces H20, better known as water. If you run a ventless heater, expect this water to condense inside your heated space.
I work in a power plant that burns coal and natural gas. Water vapour in flue gasses is a serious concern for us.
The manual even gives you a warning about the moisture. For ever 1000 BTU's use for an hour, 1 once of water is produced. So, if a 30,000 BTU heater is run for one hour, 30 ounces of moisture will be introduced.
So, that being said, some moisture during the winter is welcome. My humidity meter was reading in like 22% before the heater was hooked up and the temp was in the mid low 60's. It felt cold. Now, with the heater on the lowest setting, it maintains 66F and about 45% humidity. Today I was working in the garage and had it on the setting 2 for a little while. It was 70F and still only about 45% humidity. My wife walked into the garage and said, "whoa, it feels really good in here!"
Now, if I lived in a really cold climate when this thing would be cranked all the time, I could the moisture being a problem. But for me, I couldn't be happier.
Also, I've been leaving the heater on the lowest setting which keeps the garage at 66F. It hardly runs. It'll turn on for just a few minutes every couple of hours to maintain temp. I think keeping the garage at a moderate temp will be a good thing when it gets colder.
I guess I forgot to mention, it was 52F and rainy today. I've never been so comfortable in my garage. And this heater hardly even turned on to maintain temp. I honestly couldn't be happier.
ah, im really excited to get mine. Im getting it as a christmas gift from my cousin. He ordered the exact same one you got from northern tool in charlotte. he said he will give it to me as soon as it comes in so we can get it up and running. is your garage door insulated?
Cheatham2492
New member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2012
- Messages
- 2
For the record this is a good thread. I have been a garage
Dweller for a long time and never had the comfort of
a heated garage .I live in Denver and have a 950 sq garage
Yesterday I installed a ventless infrared heater. Love the comfortable heat but my garage is sealed well.
It dose put of a smell from the combustion. So I'm feeling that I'm going to
Install a forced air heater as well. I'm learning the benefits of both types of heat. I think it will be less of a smell when things warm up and it's not kicking all night long.. The girls love it cause they can smoke cigarettes and not be freezing in the garage. Maybe it's the cigarettes I smell... Jk.
Good job on a good thread.
Dan
Dweller for a long time and never had the comfort of
a heated garage .I live in Denver and have a 950 sq garage
Yesterday I installed a ventless infrared heater. Love the comfortable heat but my garage is sealed well.
It dose put of a smell from the combustion. So I'm feeling that I'm going to
Install a forced air heater as well. I'm learning the benefits of both types of heat. I think it will be less of a smell when things warm up and it's not kicking all night long.. The girls love it cause they can smoke cigarettes and not be freezing in the garage. Maybe it's the cigarettes I smell... Jk.
Good job on a good thread.
Dan
joshmodelskidoo
Well-known member
what about an rv furnace. they vent out the wall but you would have to change the orfice and put on a 110 motor over the 12volt one. check out craigslist for heaters or a furnace
vintagegto
Active member
With the price of other utilities like NG, Propane & especially oil $3.59 gal here in the north east. I'm installing electric heat. It's more compact and it's cheaper to run with today's energy prices, at least in New England it is. It's a safe cleaner heat too without any worries of CO or moisture IMHO. 
With the price of other utilities like NG, Propane & especially oil $3.59 gal here in the north east. I'm installing electric heat. It's more compact and it's cheaper to run with today's energy prices, at least in New England it is. It's a safe cleaner heat too without any worries of CO or moisture IMHO.
At 3,414 BTU/KW, 100,000 btu/therm ng and 92,000Btu/gal of LP at 82% for a Rinnai Direct Vent wall furnace (which I heat with) it will take 29kw of electricity to =100kbtu, 24 kw to equal the heat/therm and 22kw to equal heat in 1 gal LP. Having been in the heating business in NE for a long time, electric rates were always high. Check the local rates before moving ahead with electricity.
i feel that you may have gotten shafted....
i called my gas company about my heater and they told me that the standard for their gas pressure inside is 6-7 inches of water ( the heater can not have more than 10.5 inches) and after researching standard gas pressure, most common is the same, 6-7 inches of water. I wonder if you really had 2 psi ( which is 55.42 inches of water), or if someone just wanted to make some easy $ from ya.... ive spoken with other contractors before calling my actual gas provider and all have given me the same answers.
anyways, any new updates? how ya like it so far now that its been a few weeks? any water issues?
i called my gas company about my heater and they told me that the standard for their gas pressure inside is 6-7 inches of water ( the heater can not have more than 10.5 inches) and after researching standard gas pressure, most common is the same, 6-7 inches of water. I wonder if you really had 2 psi ( which is 55.42 inches of water), or if someone just wanted to make some easy $ from ya.... ive spoken with other contractors before calling my actual gas provider and all have given me the same answers.
anyways, any new updates? how ya like it so far now that its been a few weeks? any water issues?
85mcss
Active member
X2! How are you liking it?
I've been looking at the Locke-supply Hearthrite heaters which are very similar to yours and pretty cheap. We use one in a lake house and it does wonders but not 100% sold on using one in the garage just yet.
I've been looking at the Locke-supply Hearthrite heaters which are very similar to yours and pretty cheap. We use one in a lake house and it does wonders but not 100% sold on using one in the garage just yet.
Last edited:
geoffg
New member
I'm late to this party but I've been using a ventless propane wall-mounted heater in my SE Michigan (cold climate) 2-car attached garage for over 10 years. It's approximately the same size as the one the O.P. eventually decided on. Mine being propane, I run it off a BBQ gas bottle which is located outside the garage; the fuel is piped in through the garage wall using copper tubing.
Some thoughts about this for those who may see this thread in the future:
First, the heater definitely does put out moisture. It condenses mainly on the inside of the uninsulated steel garage door; I have not noticed it condensing elsewhere. The amount of moisture is not extremely high in my opinion, and I have certainly had no problems (rust, corrosion, etc.) from the moisture. But it exists, and it is not a myth.
Second, somebody mentioned that any aerosol you use in the garage goes through the heater and comes out smelling worse. This is true. I would definitely not consider doing any significant amount of spray painting, or using beyond a small amount of spray solvents such as carburetor cleaners. They do find their way to the heater, they do burn, and they do smell terrible. As I do not do stuff with aerosols frequently, this is not a big problem for me, but it is worth mentioning.
Another thing in a similar vein: sweeping the floor raises dust, which also finds its way into the heater. You will see the flames go from blue to yellow, and not only will things begin to smell, but the heat output goes way down. Don't sweep the floor with one of these on. If you must sweep, turn off the heater, open the door, sweep, allow the air to clear, then close the door and relight the heater. Or, turn off the heater before the end of the garage session, then sweep. I have not tried using sweeping compound to lower the amount of dust produced, but that might help too.
If you have swept the floor with the heater lit, you will sometimes find the heater is less efficient afterward, and produces strong odors. The cure is to disassemble the heater and clean out the burner. Compressed air may not be enough; I have had to swab the inside of the tube-shaped burner with paper towel to get all the dirt out. See the above note about not sweeping with this type of heater lit.
A word about performance. The ceiling in my 2.5 car garage is approximately 8 feet. Most of the heat goes right up to the ceiling at first, then slowly filters down. I have been looking for an acceptable ceiling fan to mitigate this, but my overhead space is complicated, to put it simply, so it's not as easy as it might be for some people to find a unit that will work. Even so, here in MI we have an average daytime temperature in January around 25F; the "natural" temp of the garage under those conditions (probably due to heat losses from the house) is about 36-40F. Running the heater for a half hour will produce indoor temps around 55F; running it for several hours will eventually heat the garage to over 72F. I have done upper engine rebuilds in my garage in January and been warm enough to work in a t-shirt and jeans. 30K BTU in a 2 car garage will do the trick just fine, even with no ceiling fans, but it does take awhile.
I am out in my garage no more frequently than the O.P. I might use the heat for several hours one time a week, if that. For this limited use, BBQ propane bottles are of adequate capacity and reasonably economical; I might have to refill 3-4 times per winter. (Actually, I just ran it out last night and need to refill it for an average price of about $24.) With the local Home Depot operating an automated self-serve BBQ bottle exchange 24x7x365, the convenience is definitely there.
I am keeping my eyes open for a good used potbelly stove, which I think would be more economical for longer periods of use. Here in the north woods, firewood is cheap, often free, and very plentiful. Many people heat their garages here with wood. I'm surprised this wasn't offered as an option earlier in the thread. Additionally, if you have a modest amount of waste oil available, you can often burn it effectively in a potbelly woodstove; many people do so. Something to consider for those who have some waste oil available, but not enough for one of those big waste oil heaters.
Hope this helps someone.
--Geoff
Some thoughts about this for those who may see this thread in the future:
First, the heater definitely does put out moisture. It condenses mainly on the inside of the uninsulated steel garage door; I have not noticed it condensing elsewhere. The amount of moisture is not extremely high in my opinion, and I have certainly had no problems (rust, corrosion, etc.) from the moisture. But it exists, and it is not a myth.
Second, somebody mentioned that any aerosol you use in the garage goes through the heater and comes out smelling worse. This is true. I would definitely not consider doing any significant amount of spray painting, or using beyond a small amount of spray solvents such as carburetor cleaners. They do find their way to the heater, they do burn, and they do smell terrible. As I do not do stuff with aerosols frequently, this is not a big problem for me, but it is worth mentioning.
Another thing in a similar vein: sweeping the floor raises dust, which also finds its way into the heater. You will see the flames go from blue to yellow, and not only will things begin to smell, but the heat output goes way down. Don't sweep the floor with one of these on. If you must sweep, turn off the heater, open the door, sweep, allow the air to clear, then close the door and relight the heater. Or, turn off the heater before the end of the garage session, then sweep. I have not tried using sweeping compound to lower the amount of dust produced, but that might help too.
If you have swept the floor with the heater lit, you will sometimes find the heater is less efficient afterward, and produces strong odors. The cure is to disassemble the heater and clean out the burner. Compressed air may not be enough; I have had to swab the inside of the tube-shaped burner with paper towel to get all the dirt out. See the above note about not sweeping with this type of heater lit.
A word about performance. The ceiling in my 2.5 car garage is approximately 8 feet. Most of the heat goes right up to the ceiling at first, then slowly filters down. I have been looking for an acceptable ceiling fan to mitigate this, but my overhead space is complicated, to put it simply, so it's not as easy as it might be for some people to find a unit that will work. Even so, here in MI we have an average daytime temperature in January around 25F; the "natural" temp of the garage under those conditions (probably due to heat losses from the house) is about 36-40F. Running the heater for a half hour will produce indoor temps around 55F; running it for several hours will eventually heat the garage to over 72F. I have done upper engine rebuilds in my garage in January and been warm enough to work in a t-shirt and jeans. 30K BTU in a 2 car garage will do the trick just fine, even with no ceiling fans, but it does take awhile.
I am out in my garage no more frequently than the O.P. I might use the heat for several hours one time a week, if that. For this limited use, BBQ propane bottles are of adequate capacity and reasonably economical; I might have to refill 3-4 times per winter. (Actually, I just ran it out last night and need to refill it for an average price of about $24.) With the local Home Depot operating an automated self-serve BBQ bottle exchange 24x7x365, the convenience is definitely there.
I am keeping my eyes open for a good used potbelly stove, which I think would be more economical for longer periods of use. Here in the north woods, firewood is cheap, often free, and very plentiful. Many people heat their garages here with wood. I'm surprised this wasn't offered as an option earlier in the thread. Additionally, if you have a modest amount of waste oil available, you can often burn it effectively in a potbelly woodstove; many people do so. Something to consider for those who have some waste oil available, but not enough for one of those big waste oil heaters.
Hope this helps someone.
--Geoff
Last edited:
85mcss
Active member
Hey everybody! Sorry I've been away for so long, it's been a pretty crazy last couple of weeks.
Anyway, I absolutely love the heater. My wife even loves it! I leave it on the lowest thermostat setting (1) all the time. The garage is never cooler than 61 degrees. When I want to work, I turn it up to 2 or 3 and it'll be in the mid 70's in no time at all. I was afraid of loosing all the heat when I open the garage door, if I need to move some cars around or if my wife has to leave. As soon as the door closes, it feels comfortable again and the garage recovers very quickly. I believe it has to do with the fact that everything in the garage is warm.
It does produce moisture, but because our winters are so mild, it isn't a problem at all. I haven't even seen any signs of condensation. I believe keeping the garage heated all the time helps that as well.
So, our winters. 40's to 50's during the day, 20's to 30's at night. So you can imagine that the heater hardly has to run to get the temp comfortable.
This is what I use to monitor.
I ordered this Lasko wall mounted oscillating fan. It's cheap and VERY effective. When I turn it on, I can feel the warm air blowing around. It's not necessary, but it really does help. It'll be really nice to use in conjunction with my box fan in the summers as well.
I also just looked at my gas bill and it looks it's hard to tell how much more gas I'm using as we moved here in January last year. But it doesn't seem to be going up at all.
I am surprised that so many people said ventless NG is such a bad idea. Electric heat would have been expensive. I think that my location is what makes it work so well. If I lived in a colder climate, I could see the moisture being a problem. I would absolutely recommend this heat to anyone who lives in a mild climate.
Anyway, I absolutely love the heater. My wife even loves it! I leave it on the lowest thermostat setting (1) all the time. The garage is never cooler than 61 degrees. When I want to work, I turn it up to 2 or 3 and it'll be in the mid 70's in no time at all. I was afraid of loosing all the heat when I open the garage door, if I need to move some cars around or if my wife has to leave. As soon as the door closes, it feels comfortable again and the garage recovers very quickly. I believe it has to do with the fact that everything in the garage is warm.
It does produce moisture, but because our winters are so mild, it isn't a problem at all. I haven't even seen any signs of condensation. I believe keeping the garage heated all the time helps that as well.
So, our winters. 40's to 50's during the day, 20's to 30's at night. So you can imagine that the heater hardly has to run to get the temp comfortable.
This is what I use to monitor.
I ordered this Lasko wall mounted oscillating fan. It's cheap and VERY effective. When I turn it on, I can feel the warm air blowing around. It's not necessary, but it really does help. It'll be really nice to use in conjunction with my box fan in the summers as well.
I also just looked at my gas bill and it looks it's hard to tell how much more gas I'm using as we moved here in January last year. But it doesn't seem to be going up at all.
I am surprised that so many people said ventless NG is such a bad idea. Electric heat would have been expensive. I think that my location is what makes it work so well. If I lived in a colder climate, I could see the moisture being a problem. I would absolutely recommend this heat to anyone who lives in a mild climate.
Right now it's 45 degrees outside with 74% humidity. It was no more than 50 or so and overcast all day.
I "cranked up" my heater today to 2. It's been like that for the last 8 hours or so.
I'm posting this to show that in mild climates, this heater is absolutely the way to go.
I "cranked up" my heater today to 2. It's been like that for the last 8 hours or so.
I'm posting this to show that in mild climates, this heater is absolutely the way to go.
I wanna get a wall mounted fan. Like you said its not needed, but helps circulate the air. Without a fan running, i can feel the thermal layer of heat forming at the ceiling and slowly pushing down. with a fan, it mixes throughout the room. i need a thermometer and humidity reader. But i agree with you as far as this mild climate, its perfect.
I agree with 58yeoman. I had a 30,000 btu ventless ng and the amount of moisture it put in the air was crazy. I havent finished my walls of with drywall but the paper back on my insulation was getting wet spots everywhere and all my tools were damp. I have a house furnace now and no more moisture problems. I was thinking two sixfoot baseboard heaters one on each wall or the electric heater with a blower right above your pannel would have been an easy option.
Interex
Well-known member
I get hit with a $5 charge if I don't use at least 1,000 kW each month for my plan. No surcharges for going as high as I want. All depends on your provider.
Glad it worked out for you. I was in the same boat and eventually found myself at HD just buying a cheap and easy method. Works well and heats up my 2 1/2 detached rather quickly. I also installed a ceiling fan. On the reverse setting, it helps circulate the heat that travels up into the rafters. I leave a window and side door cracked and seems to work. Need to insulate my ENTIRE garage, but only been in the house for a few months. Also, haven't noticed any condensation using this method. I have had it burning a few times for 2+ hours.
I just ordered one of these: http://www.air-n-water.com/product/g73.html
It has gotten excellent reviews. I was on sale $208 delivered. I have a 20x20 attached garage. R13 in the walls and R19 in the ceiling. I think it will serve my needs well.
Todd
It has gotten excellent reviews. I was on sale $208 delivered. I have a 20x20 attached garage. R13 in the walls and R19 in the ceiling. I think it will serve my needs well.
Todd
I don't know why I'm so different, but I have zero moisture issues.
Outside right now is 32F, 23% humidity. It was a high in the upper 30's and sunny.
Garage is 64F, 22% humidity according to my wall mounted gauge. Using my IR temp gun, I get anywhere from 58F to 64F depending on where I aimed.
Garage is attached to the house, has a room over the garage, insulated and finished, with a non insulated garage door.
The heater stays on the lowest thermostat setting 24/7, so it never has to run very much at all to maintain temp. The room over the garage also stays warmer.
I know I've said all of this before, but I thought I'd say it again. Zero moisture problems. Curious as to why I'm different.
Outside right now is 32F, 23% humidity. It was a high in the upper 30's and sunny.
Garage is 64F, 22% humidity according to my wall mounted gauge. Using my IR temp gun, I get anywhere from 58F to 64F depending on where I aimed.
Garage is attached to the house, has a room over the garage, insulated and finished, with a non insulated garage door.
The heater stays on the lowest thermostat setting 24/7, so it never has to run very much at all to maintain temp. The room over the garage also stays warmer.
I know I've said all of this before, but I thought I'd say it again. Zero moisture problems. Curious as to why I'm different.