Bolster
Well-known member
Has anyone out there in Garage Journalland ever tried to resharpen the teeth on a favorite pair of pliers? If so, how'd it go?
Can you 'resharpen' plier jaw teeth?
- Thread starter Bolster
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Hank McMauser
Well-known member
not so much the teeth but have sharpened several pairs of wire cutters/tinsnips so they cut better. I used to have a previously rusted & nasty pair of nippers that'd cleanly cut notebook paper after a session with a flat needle file.
I use a Dremel with very thin abrasive wheels (I use 409 or 420 wheels depending on application) to resharpen Channellock teeth to make them usable again, and also for pipe wrench teeth on several pipe wrenches, so that they would bite into pipe again without having to change out the teeth and jaw. It works great, and as long as the metal doesn't heat up during the grinding it is still nice and strong, hard, and resistant to dulling. I also use the Dremel with the same cutoff wheels to regrind waffle patterns into my Estwing framing and roofing hammers when the waffles wear almost completely smooth from use.
I have used files on shears, etc. and they work fine for that task. Files probably also work just fine on tools that have softer teeth, but for things like a pipe wrench with hardened jaws, or good quality pliers that have a good tooth hardness like Channellocks (or better) have, you really need something harder like a mini abrasive wheel of some sort. I wouldn't do anything but ruin my nice files if I tried to sharpen my Ridgid pipe wrench teeth with them in any significant manner, because the files and the pipe wrench teeth are about the exact same hardness.
I have used files on shears, etc. and they work fine for that task. Files probably also work just fine on tools that have softer teeth, but for things like a pipe wrench with hardened jaws, or good quality pliers that have a good tooth hardness like Channellocks (or better) have, you really need something harder like a mini abrasive wheel of some sort. I wouldn't do anything but ruin my nice files if I tried to sharpen my Ridgid pipe wrench teeth with them in any significant manner, because the files and the pipe wrench teeth are about the exact same hardness.
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ganymede
Well-known member
This was a lot more common back in the day. Nowadays I guess people just throw their pliers away and get new ones.
Some may say it doesn't make any sense since resharpened teeth won't hold their edge as long but I notice it doesn't take much to mess up new plier teeth anyway so why not sharpen them. It takes all of 10 minutes with a file and a vise anyway.
Some may say it doesn't make any sense since resharpened teeth won't hold their edge as long but I notice it doesn't take much to mess up new plier teeth anyway so why not sharpen them. It takes all of 10 minutes with a file and a vise anyway.
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Packard V8
Well-known member
I do it all the time and have salvaged dozens of USA pliers wrenches and cutters.
An old triangular file from saw sharpening days will work well. On all of them, but especially the hardened jaws of pipe wrenches and slip joint pliers, I start with a trip by the wire wheel. Sometimes all that is needed is cleaning out the crud and rust.
On an allied note, I salvaged a bucket full of taps and dies. The production company bought top quality stuff, used them for X-number of cycles and then put in a new one. All they required was cleaning off the swarf and a light sharpening touch with a Dremel wheel and they will last me forever.
jack vines
An old triangular file from saw sharpening days will work well. On all of them, but especially the hardened jaws of pipe wrenches and slip joint pliers, I start with a trip by the wire wheel. Sometimes all that is needed is cleaning out the crud and rust.
On an allied note, I salvaged a bucket full of taps and dies. The production company bought top quality stuff, used them for X-number of cycles and then put in a new one. All they required was cleaning off the swarf and a light sharpening touch with a Dremel wheel and they will last me forever.
jack vines
jabberwoki
Well-known member
Woa dude long time no post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hank McMauser
Well-known member
I picked up a a rusted pair of unknown brand dykes yesterday for 75 cents hoping to be able to resurrect them. However the steel in the cutting edge is extremely soft,and the new edge wont last too long. It is true that on a good pair of pliers a file won't touch them, I slid a file past my favorite pair of S-K dykes and that was all the file would do,it would not cut the steel.
AZ_Catskinner
Well-known member
I've filed quite a few Channellocks and slip-joints over the years. I've even taken to a pair of 460's with a triangular india stone for extra-sharp teeth (I use these almost exclusively for wrestling rubber hoses off of their burrs).
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I've cleaned up the coarse teeth on the arced part of the jaw; The really fine teeth on the mating jaws are tougher. I'll wire wheel them clean and just getting them unloaded helps a lot. I guess you can use something like a diamond scribe to dig and mushed over metal and possibly deepen the fine teeth.
Pick and hose removal pliers make that job a lot easier.
About $8 for Lisle or HF versions, squeeze the handle and the V jaws spread pushing the hose off the barb. Pushing makes the hose bell out, pulling makes it tight.
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AZ_Catskinner
Well-known member
I don't think those things would work for the hoses I deal with - The ones I do are 1½" to 3" lines that are usually that hard cased rubber.
I do need to buy a set for the house though.