Plywood Cabinets - Warped

[billyvray]

Built me a big cabinet from "cabinet" grade plywood. Right now the door has a warp or concave shape to it I can't get rid of - the bottom of the door curves outward.

I've tried wetting it and clamping till it dried but it always comes back.

Only thing I can think of is to wet it, hold it straight, and back it up with a stiffener on the inside.
What about ironing?

Any other suggestions?

~Bill

 

[Rated ///M]

well.. sounds like you have access to cabinet building tools... Take that door, saw it in half, flip one side around (so they warp against each other) and re-attach them with pocket screws. Let the natural warping of the wood cancel itself out.

 

[billyvray]

I see what you're saying, but not sure if it fits. Basically I have a 2' wide by 8' tall door (two each on the front of a 4x8 cabinet). I have hinges about 20" from the top and bottom.
The bottom and top edges (outside of the hinges) bow out away from the cabinet. I can put additional hinges right at the corners to help, but won't quite get it all out.

 

[RetiredCPO]

I had a similar problem with a cabinet door. The only thing really worked was to pull the doors off, frame them in grooved 1X4 and rehang.

 

[djjsr]

20" is too far to have your hinges from the top and bottom of the door. Look at the doors in your house. Most are either 6" or 9" from the top and bottom.

You could add hinges. 6" from the top and bottom and one in the center and it will help straighten the edge of the door with the hinges but won't help much with the other edge. Maybe cut 1/4" off that edge to give you clearance to mount a piece of angle iron on it.

 

[Macgyver_ga]

Wow, those are big doors. It's gonna be hard for you to keep a door that long and wide to stay straight unless you stiffened it up with 2 sheets of plywood or a sheet of MDF.

In my garage, I built (2) 2' wide x 8' tall cabinets and used 4 doors per cabinet. Each door is a piece of 3/4" cabinet grade ply ripped to 11.75" wide (to leave a gap for opening and closing) and ~4' Tall. Even cut down to those dimensions, over time I've still developed some slight warping (maybe 1/4") due to the higher moisture content in the garage and temp swings.

My hinges (full overlay "euro" concealed) are mounted aproximately 4" from the top and bottom of the door.

 

[billyvray]

Thanks guys, I'll go with repositioning the hinges and most likely end up backing it. I just wondered if there was some magic method for flattening ply out.

 

[buddyboy]

lay it on the floor it will flatten back out (in time).

your door is just too big. make it thicker, add a frame, re position the hinges, and maybe add some hinges.

good luck!

 

[billyvray]

By the way, here's a terrible pic of the issue. Yes, they are big cabinets, maybe too big (a little tall). BUT, right now I could unscrew it from the wall and move it if I needed too. And, I can always remove the top, cut it down, and make it shorter.
I plan to keep the shelves back inside it, and store bottles and small things on the door on little shelves.

The main goal was to put my air compressor inside it, and my shop vac, which makes it pretty big. I'll post more when I'm done.


~Bill

 

[Tribalvision]

Maybe add some magnet catches at the top and bottom after you wet it out. maybe this will keep it in shape for you.

 

[bullnerd]

Did you seal either side?
If you only sealed the outside, the inside will absorb moisture and expand,causing the curve.
If I were trying to fix it,I would put multiple tablesaw cuts part way through from the back until it lays flat and add a screwed and glued face frame or internal frame and more hinges as mentioned.

 

[djjsr]

You can make big doors that won't warp but the construction needs to be a little different. These doors cover an opening that's 8' high x 9' wide.

Each door is 3' x 8' and I made them from 1 1/2" foamboard with a 1x2 wood frame and 1/4" plywood skins. They've been in place for over 5 years and haven't warped at all. In the winter they're heated on one side only, which was my biggest concern, but it hasn't hurt them.

The side doors are hinged and the center door is located on 1/4" steel pins and lifts out. Despite their size, they're actually pretty light.

(the doors really are straight but my camera takes crooked pictures)
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[buening]

If you plan on painting the cabinets, I'd recommend making new doors out of 3/4" MDF primed and painted. I have the same size doors on my cabinet with no warping issues. I also have 5 hinges per door. If you only have two hinges on the doors, then that may be one of the issues that caused the bowing. Once they warp they are a son of a to bring back to normal without permanent stiffening like mentioned above.

If you don't plan on painting them, then MDF may not be a solution for you. But, it doesn't have the woodgrain to want to warp. MDF will act like a sponge and swell if you don't seal or paint it.

 

[willymakeit]

By the way, here's a terrible pic of the issue. Yes, they are big cabinets, maybe too big (a little tall). BUT, right now I could unscrew it from the wall and move it if I needed too. And, I can always remove the top, cut it down, and make it shorter.
I plan to keep the shelves back inside it, and store bottles and small things on the door on little shelves.

The main goal was to put my air compressor inside it, and my shop vac, which makes it pretty big. I'll post more when I'm done.


~Bill

Did you seal the plywood including the edges. It will draw moisture espc. that close to the floor.
I would also add hinges and a top and bottom catch or bolt. If your not in this cabinet all the time.

 

[tymbo]

Definitely use MDF core instead of plywood.

If you plan on painting the cabinets, I'd recommend making new doors out of 3/4" MDF primed and painted. I have the same size doors on my cabinet with no warping issues. I also have 5 hinges per door. If you only have two hinges on the doors, then that may be one of the issues that caused the bowing. Once they warp they are a son of a to bring back to normal without permanent stiffening like mentioned above.

If you don't plan on painting them, then MDF may not be a solution for you. But, it doesn't have the woodgrain to want to warp. MDF will act like a sponge and swell if you don't seal or paint it.

 

[shooting4life]

I added a couple of bolts to the inside of mine, more to add strength in the door as it locks but it would also help warping on one door.

 

[billyvray]

I ended up building a frame of 1x2 and screwing to the inside of the doors. Also added some more hinges.
I've spent some time putting things in this weekend. While it holds a lot, I've already maxed it out.
There will be more cabinets and benches but this is a good start so far.




Bill

 

[210Hardtop]

purchase interior doors!

 

[Norcal]

A lot of cabinet doors are made from veneered MDF for that very reason, I do not like MDF as a whole but there are places where it is the best choice.

 

[djjsr]

purchase interior doors!

That's what I've used for most of my big cabinets. They're relatively cheap and they work. You just have to build the cabinet to fit the doors.

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[shooting4life]

That's what I've used for most of my big cabinets. They're relatively cheap and they work. You just have to build the cabinet to fit the doors.

View media item 5469
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I like that

 

[burgie]

Others have pointed this out, but given the size of the door, use a manufactured product such as MDF. These materials are much more stable and less prone to changes in the environment that would cause warpage...

You will go nuts trying to straighten out your warped door panel...