Horrible garage floor needs makeover - repairing concrete?

[cbracer]

My 1962 house has a 20x20.5 two car garage. The biggest problem I face is what to do with the garage floor. I'm sure many have been in this situation and there isn't an economical fix other than to just ignore it...

You can see in the pictures below some of the issues.

1. large cracks that run in both directions.
2. very unlevel, with up to 0.75" variation.
3. edges have pulled back from the foundation
4. removing the carpet tacks left gouges in the concrete needing to be patched.

Pretty much anything I do will require repair of the cracks and leveling. For the cracks I want something strong bonding to help prevent crack growth, so perhaps some epoxy based concrete crack filler? I'm not interested in using a sealer like silicon which offers no strength. Then for coating over the top to patch and leveling, I could just pour on some concrete leveler but I don't know what kind? Or use a trowel on product in place of the leveler or after the leveler like Legacy maybe the HD-110 or HD-105, or MG-Krete? Any thoughts on which one? If I don't level it before with a self leveler, there's no way I could trowel something myself so I'd have to hire this out.

The big question is what to do? My options I've come up with include:

1. break the concrete out and pour a new slab for about $4000
2. have a concrete repair guy come and repair it for about $3000
3. cover with outdoor carpet for $200 and know that it's a temporary solution. This would help keep the garage quieter but make cleanup of liquids difficult even if the carpet is 100% stain resistant.
4. cover with snap tile at a cost of $1000-$3000. Problem is I want smooth floors to roll chairs and jacks around so the coin or diamond pattern won't work for me. That leaves only the expensive stuff. And I'd still likely have to level it first or the end result would still be quite unlevel.
5. roll out mats seem like a possibility, but still $800-$1000
6. repair cracks and level myself, then epoxy the floor for $600-$1000 with good materials, which is sure to crack again even if the existing cracks are properly repaired. I know this will happen because my neighbor showed me his.
7. repair cracks and level myself, then use a urethane based coating like Polyurea which should move enough to resist future cracks. still $600-$1000
8. repair cracks and level myself, then porcelain tile for $600

So I'm leaning towards #7 or #8 as the only economical decent methods that should last. Keeping under $1000 would be really nice. Any other good options or thoughts guys?

 

[Garage Flooring]

Before you do anything in terms of expensive repair to the concrete you may want to make sure that you don't have bigger issues going on. While your floor is not completely out of the ordinary, I would be willing to bet that something else is going on and any concrete repairs you make, the symptoms may come back.

To me this is the perfect job for an interlocking tile. You may still want to do a few repairs though

 

[theoldwizard1]

#1

Of course you should find out why it went so bad

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Quick and dirty:
Yes you can repair some areas with hd110 and cracks with hd821.
Coat with our sl coating it hides more. You could grind the edges where it is not level like they do with sidewalks.

However. If you are making this your mainstay for years to come consider a tear out.

Here is a link showing a pretty bad garage we salvaged.
http://legacyindustrial.blogspot.com/2012/10/smoothing-garage-floor-legacy-industrial.html?m=1

 

[ConCretin]

I wouldn't try to repair the slab - I doubt that repairs would hold up over time. Remove and replace the slab or cover it up with something like RaceDeck.

By the way, I think you could tear it out and replace it for a lot less than $4k.

 

[Garages Plus]

There is an epoxy flooring product that is relatively easy to use so you could make the repairs to the slab and put the epoxy flooring in yourself for much less than $4000.
See www.everlastepoxy.com
They sell primarily to the commercial epoxy flooring market but is a nice floor for a high-end garage.

 

[GreggW30]

I am no expert but I think there are other problems with the floor. I would hold off on your epoxy flooring installation to see what a contractor thinks. I wouldn't want to waste my money on a new floor only to have it crack even more.

 

[crankshaftdan II]

By far & away not an expert opinion here-however as previously stated by others-you may have a much larger issue underneath the slab?? Please state your location as I am in frozen tundra wisc. and I have observed several garage slabs that look identical to yours and most were older-laid in the 50's & 60's and were laid on the bare ground with nothing for drainage, such as gravel/compacted fill-lots of heaving when the frost comes out in spring! If this could be your situation you do not want to fill those cracks or fill the sides with anything as that looks to be what happened with the original pour?? If you have freezing in your area you have some degee of frost in the ground. Can you mark the floor height perpendicular to the wall blocks and ride out one winter? This would show you how much vertical movement you have. I would agree on NOT spending $$$ to patch/fill/level until you can make a more informed determination. My 2 cents worth????

 

[vartz04]

I have the same situation in my garage. I plan to cut out the worst heaved area and pour new there myself. Then grinding the rest of the cracks level and filling them. Waiting a winter and seeing what happens.

 

[ConCretin]

This slab has failed structurally. The failure is most likely due to an unstable, expansive or frozen sub base. Unless the underlying problem is corrected, it will continue to move, which will cause any repairs and floor coverings to fail.

It would be a waste of money to repair the slab. Adding an epoxy floor system would just be throwing good money after bad. The OP has three choices; live with it, cover it or replace it. If it were my garage, I'd choose door number three.

 

[tncatadjuster]

I've fixed worse with no call back for 10 years or more. Each case is different, if the slab was placed in 1962, it might not have changed for the last 30 years.
Get a professional to scope it and give a real opinion, the internet is no substitute a survey.

You would be surprised what can be done by a pro.

Or throw some floating tile over it as mentioned.

 

[cbracer]

I live in Huntington Beach, CA where the ground is nothing but sand so it moves and settles. There is no "hidden" problem that everyone is suggesting, this is simply a matter of where I live and pouring a slab that big without reinforcements. Structurally it has no structure. The main house is built on a slab which is a completely different pour, thicker and with reinforcement so it doesn't crack and has held up just fine. Yes if I fix it the floor could still move, but after 50 years I'd assume it has settled some and shouldn't move as much anymore.... until the big one hits us and it falls into the ocean

I'm trying to keep the cost down so cover it and live with it I guess.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I live in Huntington Beach, CA where the ground is nothing but sand so it moves and settles. There is no "hidden" problem that everyone is suggesting, this is simply a matter of where I live and pouring a slab that big without reinforcements. Structurally it has no structure. The main house is built on a slab which is a completely different pour, thicker and with reinforcement so it doesn't crack and has held up just fine. Yes if I fix it the floor could still move, but after 50 years I'd assume it has settled some and shouldn't move as much anymore.... until the big one hits us and it falls into the ocean

I'm trying to keep the cost down so cover it and live with it I guess.

If that is the case, I really do not think a coating is the way to go. While we sell coatings and repair products, I think you would be best with a garage floor tile such as the ones we offer, those offered by Swisstrax or Racedeck depending on your preference.

Depending on your budget the PVC tiles would be a good fit!

 

[ishiboo]

I would make a minimal investment or replace it. Whatever you do, don't spend $3000 repairing it!

If you went with RaceDeck or something similar, you could fill the cracks and perform some basic leveling now for under $100 in tools/materials, and then if it came time to replace the slab at some point, you could reinstall the same RaceDeck.

The slab you say has no reinforcement, it was poured without appropriate expansion gaps to the foundation wall, and there are no relief cuts I can see... it was just done incorrectly.

LLWillysfan is our concrete guru - I would agree with my limited knowledge that $4k seems high for a complete replacement. I have never done concrete so this is based off what I've researched for my own purposes, but I believe removing and redoing a slab that size/configuration is within the means of a DIYer and some helpers as well.

 

[6t7gto]

Tear it out. A couple of buddies, some beer and a sledge hammer and go at it.
I did my dad's garage and 3 of us tore it out in one evening, by hand.
Got a local guy with a small dump truck, threw the concrete pieces in it by hand.
You have about 5 yds of concrete. Maybe $600.00 including short load fee.
I had a friend finish it for $200.00 with our help. Total cost was maybe $900.
His garage was 20x20.
No big problem. And my dad really liked the new garge floor.

david

 

[LW CONCRETE]

A few of the respondents above called it correct. There are most likely underlying issues with either the slab or the sub base. I would say 9 times out of 10 something is going on with those lateral cracks. You could do a short term cosmetic repair but chances are a tear out and replace will serve you better

 

[cbracer]

Tear it out. A couple of buddies, some beer and a sledge hammer and go at it.
I did my dad's garage and 3 of us tore it out in one evening, by hand.
Got a local guy with a small dump truck, threw the concrete pieces in it by hand.
You have about 5 yds of concrete. Maybe $600.00 including short load fee.
I had a friend finish it for $200.00 with our help. Total cost was maybe $900.
His garage was 20x20.
No big problem.

That would be nice but mine would be a little more difficult. Breaking it out is fine, around $200 to dump the concrete pieces at the dump, then I have to dig dirt out, buy gravel to put in, rent a compactor, get permits (or just don't tell), lay reinforcement, have concrete delivered as I'm not mixing that much, then have someone finish it with me. Even DIY it would cost $1500-$2000 minimum and take 3 days. Then left with a normal concrete floor which is clean and nice but not spectacular. I did a 7x7 pour for my hot tub and it came out just fine. Guess there's no magic answer just choose what I want the final outcome to look like and do it.

 

[thegarageguy]

two choices, demo and re-pour or install an interlocking tile system

 

[Prepman]

I have been fixing these kind of floors for about 20+yrs. I don't think this floor has any relief joints that go across the floor like a cross. As the slab dried the shrinkage caused the ramdone cracking. Go to the Harbor Freight Store; buy you a cheap small side grinder and a diamond 4" cutting wheel. Cut 1" deep throught the center of the floor in both direction like a cross. Go on Youtube and put in the search for : Roadwear Crack Repair for concrete. It comes in a dual tube system. You will need the gun to hold it too. Watch how they repair cracks. This stuff is great. You can use the saw to cut out a perimeter straight line and fill it with a urethane caulking. You may have to fill the crack with sand to seal the bottom. This will cost you about $250.00.

This is a fix to seal up the floor only; not to make it pretty. If it has no vapor barrier, paint of any kind would come off because of moisture in most cases. There are special primers to lock out moisture; and then you could epoxy paint it. Grind it first for a good prep. Stay away from the home building places as these are not that good and go to a local paint store like Glidden or S.W. for help with a good floor epoxy. For another $600.00 you could do this. Hope this gives you another option.

 

[cbracer]

Wow that Roadwear repair for concrete looks pretty impressive. I love how it soaks in and will offer great adhesion of the material in the crack. Looks like a winner as it transfers load and dries hard, not flexible.

If I understand what you're saying, cut a 1" deep line like a cross into the concrete. This will create a stress concentration and the concrete will only crack under the urethane caulking, preventing new cracks. Makes sense.

 

[ConCretin]

Umm........oh nevermind.

 

[camarotoolman]

Can you just pour a new slab on top of that? Put a rebar mat in and pour a new slab.

 

[cbracer]

I want to use this stuff but the company hasn't responded to my email go figure
search youtube for Roadwear Crack Repair and see their web site: http://www.concretemender.com/

If I can't get that then I'm going to search for some epoxy based concrete crack filler. I want something with 4000 psi type strength so it will help add some strength back in. Then I'm going to grind down the cracks so they are smooth and find some leveling topper. It's next on my to do list, though I still need to clean the concrete with a concrete cleaner before. I wish there was a list of "here's the best stuff to use and where to get it" !

 

[dcs Inc]

If you are dead set on putting lipstick on this pig, do it correctly. Clean the cracks real well. Use denatured alcohol as your liquid then you wont be adding more moisture to the areas. Personally I think a flexible epoxy crack filler is a waste of time. Use a 12000+ psi epoxy and pre wet the side walls, (Use a chip brush) Mix a thickener into the epoxy and force it all the way to the bottom of the cracks with a little over fill to sand smooth later. Most importantly, deep saw cut NEW crack control relief cuts near these random cracks. A center cut and then a couple cross cuts would help insure your "moving", or re-controlling the tress cracks.

If you do not saw cut new crack control joints, you are waisting your time. A walk behind diamond saw with at least a 12" blade is what you need. A 14" blade will get you all the way through a 4" slab. Get the next larger walk behind saw the rental companies rent. The 8 hp gas saw will take you 3 times as long to deep cut. Get at least a 12 or 16 HP saw. Make sure they rent you a diamond segment blade and not the black "cutoff" blades.

Roadwear has a good crack filler as do many companies out there. They are proud of it. I think you need to step up to a higher compressive strength. Epoxy injection would be the best but you can manage this making sure you prewet the (cleaned) side walls of the cracks and then apply a thickened epoxy filler. (2" margin trowel, squish, squish.)

I think your biggest decision here would be to use a flexible filler and leave these random joints as they are or re-control them into straight lines. The absolute best way for this not to happen again is to control the temperature and keep it constant in this area and move all downspouts to drain away from the perimeter on exterior walls. You evidentially have a very expansive sub grade and it's winning the battle with the concrete.

The edges: This was a crappy install to begin with. Do not pour over this with new concrete. It will ghost the original cracks and crack right away. Edges need to be ground smooth all the way to the walls. You can reshape the chipped edges by temporarily placing a spacer against the wall and troweling a resurfacer onto the concrete. Wait till dry and pull the spacer. Then fill these openings with something flexible. Use something to recess into the space below the surface so you are not waisting the flexible joint filler.

My installers put a lot of lip stick on concrete much like yours. It becomes a toss of a coin to spend your hard earned cash on a remake or replace. Spend the energy to do it right or just go ahead and replace it. If you replace, figure on digging out and replacing the original problem. (Crappy subgrade). Good luck on what ever you decide.

 

[coolreed]

I would not waste my time doing a repair. Have a professional remove and replace the concrete floor. The vapor barrier and relief cuts will be installed properly and you will have a great floor. It would be money well spent.

 

[cbracer]

Use denatured alcohol as your liquid then you wont be adding more moisture to the areas. Personally I think a flexible epoxy crack filler is a waste of time. Use a 12000+ psi epoxy and pre wet the side walls, (Use a chip brush)

Most importantly, deep saw cut NEW crack control relief cuts near these random cracks.

Thanks for the info. I was in no way was wanting to use a flexible sealer. I wanted something strong. I love denatured alcohol so that's a great tip. Where can I get a stronger filler than Roadwear? I found some 12kpsi quickrete stuff at lowes, though I'd really have to push that stuff down there. The thing I liked about Roadwear was it's wicking capability to fill in the entire crack all the way down and have some good bond strength to the crack surfaces. With 4kpsi it's stronger than the concrete, versus 12kpsi which won't fill the crack completely. Though the quickrete epoxy stuff is cheaper.

 

[dcs Inc]

Use a regular 100% solids epoxy. You guys can make your own crack fill epoxy by adding silica sand or other type of thickener. If you want a flexible type then get that. Check the brand and see what the strength of the epoxy is. Not sure of the quickcrete stuff, I done use any of their products. You can vary the thickness yourself by adding more or less thickener.

I would tend to lean towards coolreed's recomendation. A lot needs to be taken into consideration when doing repairs like this.

 

[montero1dfw]

I have been researching crack repair systems for a while. I have pretty much narrowed my choice down to Emecole 555. It is a lot like the Roadware, plus I was able to find it online. They also have a video of it and you can find some youtube videos on it. Here is the link
http://www.emecole.com/pages/Emecole-555-Concrete-Crack-Repair-Polyurea.html

mike

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Make sure those cracks have a bottom or you will be sending a lot of dollars into the abyss.

 

[dcs Inc]

Yep, Ya gotta add some thickener to your stuff. Elite Crete just came out with a new crack fill. MERCAPP 445. Here's some tech info on it. Comes in bulk or those silly little tubes. Oops, that was a personal thought. The cartridges are ok. You loose some material to get it started mixing and it's really tough to save a partial tube. Here's some info on it.
http://www.elitecrete.com/PDFs/TD.475%20-%20Technical%20Data%20-%20MERCAP-445.pdf

 

[GTVSaviour]

As said above - check the depth of the cracks and what's going on underneath..... I knew the (rented) garage I had was cracked and needed repair - but was stalled by the landlord for 15mths.
I poured a little fluid and watched as it disappeared..... got more worried when I spilled a large oil carton and it ALL disappeared.

Eventually found out the slab was sitting above a collapsed drainiage pipe that had led to the erosion of the entire area under the garage. If the slab hadn't held I'd have been buried under the car at the bottom of a very large hole!

Get it looked at....... seriously.

Best of luck.......