Hardiebacker 500 Board Shower Install

[doc7411]

Hello, Can anyone tell me if they do the corner joints with mesh tape and mortar. As well as the horizontal joints. Do they suggest putting felt paper behind the hardiebacker board in a shower install. Thanks

 

[duneslider]

Hardi is NOT waterproof so yes you need to put tar paper behind it, or a waterproofing membrane on top (my preference).

Joints and corners should be mesh taped and muded. You can do it as you set the tile though so it is one step rather than taping it and muding it then coming back to set tile. Either way works.

Make sure to use alkali resistant mesh tape, drywall tape is not alkali resistant.

 

[brownbagg]

yes but dont use mastic, use thin set

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

If this is a wall only (with an acrylic base -not a mud pan) then apply 6 mill or thicker poly sheeting on the wall and drape it into the pan before you put up the hardi board. Then tape and mud all but the base joints and tape and mud the corners as well. The base joint is where it meets the pan, you'll end up mudding and caulking this joint as you tile and grout. You are better off doing the joints BEFORE you tile. When you mud the joints use thin-set mortar and if this is in a garage use the expensive latex modified type. Then before you tile, carefully cut away any poly that might be visible at the base. Also screw not nail the hardi to the studs and use the correct type of screw.

Good luck and post a few pics when your done!

 

[duneslider]

You are better off doing the joints BEFORE you tile.

Please explain why? I have been a tile contractor for 15 years, I certainly don't know everything and I love to learn more but I can't think of a single reason it would be better to do it before?

Certainly nothing wrong with doing it before tile but can't think of why it would be better? In fact, depending on the tile used it could be worse. Doing it before creates build-up in the corners and on the seams and could show through as bulges when you tile. For 12 or bigger tiles it probably wouldn't be an issue but if you are doing smaller tiles it could cause issues.

 

[Big-Foot]

Please explain why? I have been a tile contractor for 15 years, I certainly don't know everything and I love to learn more but I can't think of a single reason it would be better to do it before?

Certainly nothing wrong with doing it before tile but can't think of why it would be better? In fact, depending on the tile used it could be worse. Doing it before creates build-up in the corners and on the seams and could show through as bulges when you tile. For 12 or bigger tiles it probably wouldn't be an issue but if you are doing smaller tiles it could cause issues.

He might have meant to thinset the joints "just before" you tile.. This is what I would do.. The first one I did, I mudded all the joints ahead of time and found myself knocking it back down with 36 grit sand paper to get a somewhat flat surface to put the buttered tiles onto.. Live and learn...

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

Please explain why? I have been a tile contractor for 15 years, I certainly don't know everything and I love to learn more but I can't think of a single reason it would be better to do it before?

Certainly nothing wrong with doing it before tile but can't think of why it would be better? In fact, depending on the tile used it could be worse. Doing it before creates build-up in the corners and on the seams and could show through as bulges when you tile. For 12 or bigger tiles it probably wouldn't be an issue but if you are doing smaller tiles it could cause issues.

I too am a contractor and tile is one of my specialties. Why before?

There's really no downside to taping as you go in fact you may find the better time to tape the seams is while you're installing the tile. You are correct, you have less of a chance of the thinset on the seams causing a buildup and therefore a hump in the field.

One down side to taping as you go is that if you have to pull up a tile that spans a seam, it can pull up the tape as well.

It sounds like the OP is new at this and having the seams done before the tile is started will be one less thing for him to worry about as he tiles. He should just run a wide taping knife over the joints to cut down any humps.

My personal issue with tape-as-you-go is that I don't ever want to get called back for cracking corners. Having it pre-taped also makes it easier to cut and measure the tile. I tape and pack the joints very well and I would just think that it would be very messy trying to do corners and tiles simultaneously. Not to mention it would make measuring the tile somewhat tricky.

Scientific reason? I've got none. To me it is just a best practice thing. Sure it takes more time but I feel in the end I have a better outcome.

 

[buremarey]

The base joint is where it meets the pan, you'll end up mudding and caulking this joint as you tile and grout.

 

[uppster]

Another tile setter here. I would prefer 1/2 concrete board, no need to tape seams unless it makes you feel better, I have three showers in my house if you want to come by and see, that do not leak after 10 years. As with everything there will be different views on this, sort through whom you trust.

 

[duneslider]

Another tile setter here. I would prefer 1/2 concrete board, no need to tape seams unless it makes you feel better, I have three showers in my house if you want to come by and see, that do not leak after 10 years. As with everything there will be different views on this, sort through whom you trust.

I generally prefer a cement board too but I am aware of NO manufacturer that says you don't have to tape the seams. Plus, the TCNA (Tile Council of North America) and ANSI call for taping the seams. Not to be a jerk but doing it wrong for 10 years doesn't make it right. I did things wrong for a long time too and I too got lucky and never had call backs. Manufacturers directions should always be followed and each company is a little different and seems to change things constantly.