Best anti seize to use?

[silver2000]

I never have really gotten a good answer to this that I understood. Seems like copper is common and maybe nickel is for salt water and higher temps. I really would just like one good jar but am in the northeast with salt, water, etc. Is there a downside to using nickel for everything? Do you consider that a premium one to use? ty

 

[Thunderbisciut]

From Permatex:

Nickel:
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400 degree fahrenheit
For use with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys
For use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature
Recommended where copper contamination must be avoided
Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies

Copper:
Prevents seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist
Fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors
Temperature range: -30F to 1800F
Provides good electrical conductivity
Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings and battery cable connections

Standard:
Highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants
Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant, this lubricant is ideal for marine use
Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly
Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts
Temperature range: -60F to 1600F

There are also non-metallic versions that just use graphite...

 

[jjjrmx5]

The "best" one is one suited for your applications...


Here a 5 page thread to help ya out.:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212510


I use Wurth products. Most are German made.

http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/au.../wurth-cu-800-copper-anti-seize-08938001.html

and

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P1T2L2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

and CU 800 spray.

http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/produkte_1/chemicals/lubricants/lubricants.php

So yes, as the GJ concensus always is..."You need both"

Hahahahaha. But true.

 

[Steinmetz]

Never Seez.

 

[pacmktg]

Which Never Sieze? They make several.

 

[nyrapscalion]

The copper stuff is tasty on celery...lol

Seriously, I use the copper for almost everything. Spark plugs, brakes,...basically any dissimilar metal to metal contact. The car as well as in the house. A little goes a long way.

 

[larry_g]

Anti seize thread
Above is a link to another thread here on the subject.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[rodm1]

I use the Permatex with aluminum, copper and graphite lubricant in it available every where but its rated for 1200° F. I've had some spark plugs get very tight on removal that had this stuff on them.

I'm thinking I will go with the highest temp stuff I can get next time. other wise I never had a problem with Permatex on low temp stuff and highly recommend it for that purposes.

 

[wmonroe]

I use N5000 for all my anti seize needs and it has worked very well for me so far.

 

[Stevewr54]

Chesterton nickle is very good but hard to find. Used in industry a lot and has a loyal
following with millwrights. Steve

 

[Carlos Iglesias]

I use N5000 for all my anti seize needs and it has worked very well for me so far.

I think I have the most extreme application any anti-seize could perform under: single-turbo, rotary exhaust manifold (inconel) studs at 1800F. Locktite N5000, nuclear-certified and lot numered anti-seize has NEVER failed. Guess what I use exclusively...

Flyin, Racing and Buildin Beasts,
Carlos Iglesias

 

[sdguy55]

Idk about that Carlos. The C15 twin turbo'd cats with the regen system have got to have one of the most heat concentrated engine bays I have ever seen. You've got twin turbos, exhaust manifold, egr valve, ardhead valve, precooler and all piping on just the passenger side. For trucks that regularly see 1200 degree egt thats a lot of heat all packed into one area. Might have to look into getting some of your antiseize if it has worked well for you

 

[NHBandit]

I found when I was working on heavy equipment a few years ago that the Caterpillar copper stuff works the best for smearing on brass doorknobs in the shop. The poor suckers don't notice it until it's too late because the color match is nearly perfect. It's good on bolts too. I still have a large tub of it.

 

[redwrench60]

I found when I was working on heavy equipment a few years ago that the Caterpillar copper stuff works the best for smearing on brass doorknobs in the shop. The poor suckers don't notice it until it's too late because the color match is nearly perfect. It's good on bolts too. I still have a large tub of it.

Lol well played sir, well played.

 

[V70R]

Liqui Moly 508, copper based. Can be found through your WorldPac dealer and or Napa.

 

[noslocars]

I use Pure Nickel and C5-A on the hot sections of jet engines. They both work great. I use the C5-A on exhaust and motor mount bolts at home in the garage. Haven't bought any for years because my work puts an expiration date on it and throws it out. I have a bunch from there. I don't think it ever goes bad.

 

[Steinmetz]

Blue Moly

 

[CWP1616L]

I like the Permatex silver stuff.

 

[jrlp]

I've fell in love with the Loctite antiseize in lip stick tubes. Works very well for small fasteners and even more so as no clean up is necessary. It works amazingly well on nicer cars, where one careless mistake can take hours of cleaning to fix.

 

[BD1]

The copper stuff is tasty on celery...lol

Seriously, I use the copper for almost everything. Spark plugs, brakes,...basically any dissimilar metal to metal contact. The car as well as in the house. A little goes a long way.

They have '' FOOD GRADE'' for salads !

 

[littletoes]

I carry the copper, nickel, black-moly, and a white anti-seize in my work truck.

They all work, but the copper stuff seems to stick the best. The nickel stuff seems to "stick" at the first use, but when you take stuff apart, it must be redone. The copper stuff seems to leave enough behind you don't need to re-apply, but we always do, and clean the old off, and use a new gasket too. The white stuff is a good grade, which I don't use much, the black-moly based stuff is a total mess! It is extremely fine, and does work, but I think the temp isn't rated as high as the nickel or copper.

All said, copper C5-A is my favorite, and we have had the best luck with.

 

[kiatech]

That stuff gets everywhere. I swear it is magic.

 

[Toolhorder]

I use whatever the parts dept. gives me. Grey Permatex stuff. Mostly on exhaust studs, anything that won't go back together nice threadwise or spark plugs. The caliper pins get the silicone paste white stuff and then moly on the pads backsides and ends.

 

[kams1973]

kopr-kote

 

[Spudland_Dave]

All said, copper C5-A is my favorite, and we have had the best luck with.

Ah yes, C5-A...my dad's favorite too. Good stuff I agree.
Personally, I'm from the "any anti-sieze is better then no anti-seize" camp. I've used it all, and I use it on everything. I use it by the case..I even have a Spray-Can of LocTite Nickel anti-sieze for those special situations.

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

here is my question what about a part that need anti size and also a part you do not want to vibrate loose what is the best solution. thanks ED

 

[oilfieldtrash4]

here is my question what about a part that need anti size and also a part you do not want to vibrate loose what is the best solution. thanks ED

Never had something come loose because of antiseize and we put everything back together with antiseize because we work with saltwater.

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

Never had something come loose because of antiseize and we put everything back together with antiseize because we work with saltwater.

I am mainly concerned with my offroad baja bug, we do use antiseize but also put a dab of adhesive on the bolt head on for added safety and yet to have any thing come loose LOTS of vibration and abuse.

 

[oilfieldtrash4]

I am mainly concerned with my offroad baja bug, we do use antiseize but also put a dab of adhesive on the bolt head on for added safety and yet to have any thing come loose LOTS of vibration and abuse.

We have constant vibration on the pumps and the pipes are under pressure up to 1500 Psi. These pumps are run 24/7 365. Id say a little more abuse than your dune buggy weekend thing. Still have had nothing back out because of antiseize.

 

[rlitman]

Haven't bought any for years because my work puts an expiration date on it and throws it out. I have a bunch from there. I don't think it ever goes bad.

I had a tube where the cap broke. Eventually the greasy anti-seize turned into a kind of waxy stick that squeezes out of the tube. IMHO this stuff gets better with age. It is easier to apply when thicker.

I've fell in love with the Loctite antiseize in lip stick tubes. Works very well for small fasteners and even more so as no clean up is necessary. It works amazingly well on nicer cars, where one careless mistake can take hours of cleaning to fix.

Exactly. Anti-seize is best in crayon form.

 

[jimjdm]

I have by far noticed the biggest difference between some type of anti-seize and no anti-seize. That is, almost any type seems to work good enough in all but the most demanding applications. I had used nickel always with the logic that the benefit of having only one type would outweigh the small cost difference of always using the best, but I started considering the possibility of nickel sensitivity (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_allergy). Anti-seize tends to go everywhere, so why take the risk unless it is needed?

There may be something to be said for using one based on aluminum over copper since aluminum is more reactive than iron while copper is less so. (See http://www.cod.edu/people/faculty/jarman/richenda/1551_hons_materials/Activity series.htm among many.) As a result, it could be possible for copper in the anti-seize that has become a salt and then free copper ions in a solution (due to exposure to water and corrosive chemicals in the environment) to be replaced by iron or aluminum from the coated parts, effectively corroding the part that the anti-seize was intended to protect. But with a grease carrier, it is hard to envision much of that going on in normal use.

 

[Tonyuk]

Copper grease for any general fasteners, nickle based for O2 and other exhaust components, ceramic for brake components, Castrol optimol for clutch and axle splines + wheel bolts, Liquimolly glow plug paste for glow plugs and spark plugs.

You could probably use copper grease on all of the above without issue but none of them are that expensive and tey'll last for ages if you buy a proper 500g tin.