Finally got a drill press have some questions

[skamp]

Finally after looking for over a year I scored a drill press on CL. I got a JET JDP-14J. I got it for $150.00 so I think I did alright. I have been looking for a full size unit but the prices for machinery in Houston is insane on CL. So now I need to tune it up, etc. Was looking for some ideas on tables, vice belt, etc. Also what is the best way to check runout? I have a dial gauge. Here are some pictures.

Steve

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

Looks good

Adam

 

[40standard]

did you get a vice with it?

 

[skamp]

did you get a vice with it?

No, no vice with it. Any suggestions?

Steve

 

[zmotorsports]

I would suggest getting a better chuck as those import chucks are actually the weakest link on the entire unit. Other than that they are actually a pretty good drill press.

I just sold my 15" Wilton floor mounted one which is almost exactly like the one you bought only a floor version. I had it for 17 years and it never failed me. I did however, replace the chuck right after purchasing it.

I purchased a Dayton 4" drill press vise about 12 years ago and it has worked great. The one that came with the drill press was a piece of **** and ended up in the garbage almost immediately. It was one of the ones that you could change the angle on and it just had too many moving points as well as poor overall quality. I looked as some really high dollar ones but in the end bought the 4" Dayton for right around $60.00 and it has worked great. It is a very well built vise for the price.

Here is a link to the one that I have from Grainger.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Drill-Press-4-Inch-Vise-3W761?Pid=search

Mike.

 

[OctoMan]

Link to good artile on testing spindle run out, and replacing chuck.
http://www.rvplane.com/pdf/drill_press_tune-up.pdf

 

[Falcon67]

It's a drill press - +/- .005 isn't drill press territory. Any import 4"~5" vice would be way more accurate than then press and most drill bits. I have a kinda beat up big 5" drill press vice on mine that I got at a sale for $5. It's perfect. I have a different vice on the mill, which is a totally different machine.

 

[InPrimer]

If you have a machinist friend have him go with you at a good swap meet. I got a new (used)chuck at Pomona last yr, It was $60 and new over $150. Has ball bearings in it etc since I dont know squat about lathes/mills etc I'm glad I brought Jerry with me

 

[brownbagg]

why? just drill with it

 

[442stu]

Anyone have a parts source for the jackshaft and add'l pulley needed to slow down these TW made drill presses? Seems like they're all the same head casting. Mine is a 5 speed and is identical to the one pictured in the article, and even has a hole in the casting for the jackshaft. I'd like to slow it down a bit more for use with metal hole saws, etc.

 

[Davefr]

Congrats, nice DP!! I have it's bigger brother and really like it.

Here are the mods I did.

1. Convert to link belt - makes it much smoother
2. Go with a precision keyless chuck like Albrecht
3. Add a torque amplifier to the table elevation crank handle - I used wood.
4. Changed the power switch from push button to toggle. (I just didn't like the feel of the push button.)
5. Add a swing out accessory tray

 

[Dataguy]

No, no vice with it. Any suggestions?

Steve

Well, women and whiskey have always worked for me.

Oh, wait, you mean *vise*?

 

[5lima30]

Nice looking press! Enjoy!

 

[metalmagpie]

Pop the chuck and its arbor out using your 2MT drift pin.

Now put your dial test indicator on the female spindle taper and turn the quill by hand. Your spindle runout should be less than .001".

Put the chuck back in. Chuck a ground pin in it. Put your dial test indicator on it and again turn the quill by hand to measure runout.

Now you know how good or bad the chuck is. Probably you will have something like .015" of runout on your chuck. If you don't like that (why should you?) the solution is a higher quality chuck.

If you don't know what I'm talking about post back here.

metalmagpie

 

[bimmer1980]

Run it..........

Here's my recommendations.... Get it mounted at a comfortable height to use.

Get a magnetic light to attach to the side of it. It really helps to have good light.

Get a quick attaching drill bit holder--they clamp to the side of the column.

Get some decent drill bits. Or at least a full set. Then buy multiples of the common sizes. I use a lot of 1/8" and 3/16" for pilot holes. I also like the uni-bit style of drill bits.

Get a decent countersink for deburring holes or a hand held deburring tool (looks like a handle with a little hook shaped blade).

Get a set of transfer punches. It makes the setup for drilling holes much quicker.

I put a sacrificial hardwood board on my drilling table. This eliminates the "arc of shame holes". A piece of aluminum would also work nicely.

I also have a few of the vise grip clamps that bolt to the holes in the table. These are helpful for clamping awkward items for drilling.

What I should do on mine is the following....

Build a chip tray for under the drilling table.

Add a hook close by and hang a dedicated brush and dustpan for clean up.

I'd like to build a wood table with a fence on it for drilling holes in a nice line. I haven't had a real need for it, so I haven't yet.....

Yeah, I really nice drill chuck might be nice, but get to the point where you are drilling some holes first.

Most important---start using it to build something!!