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Dryer help? PLEASE

Toolhorder

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Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
5,711
Location
Montana
Got a less than 2 year old GE gas dryer. Was working fine until last week. The dryer was working and wife opened door and threw in more clothes and tried to restart it and nothing.
So far I've checked continuity on the door switch, start switch and checked for power at the outlet to make sure it's getting proper power.
I had to take apart the whole damn dryer skin to see if it had a thermal fuse or something and couldn't find one. Called GE's customer helpline and tech told me the safety fuse is the high limit thermostat???
That doesn't sound right. Pulled it anyway and I don't think it's bad because if I check continuity it has it after you wait 5-10 seconds. I'm thinking the heat from my hands causes this. It's consistent...

About to go buy another one but this one is really basic (I'm not a fan of the $1800 electronic dryer setups) and it's not even 2 yrs. old.

Can anyone throw me a lifeline? I'm drowning in this mess. :confused:
 
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Mr. Tool

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Jan 26, 2013
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1,881
I am no expert, just advice, make sure that the passage way for the 'excess lint' is free and clear of lint all the way to the outside outlet. It usually is an opening by the dry'ers door with a screen that captures lint. I've found that if that passage way gets clogged (some dry'ers are designed this way, not all) that it triggers a sensor to shut down the dry'er and will not start till after it is cleared.
Another suggestion is it could be that the actual dry'ers heating elements have been exhausted (due to excessive lint clogging, no proper ventilation, etc.) and therefore cause's the dryer to shut down till it is replaced (I've replaced mine before no big problem to replace).
These are just a couple of things, from what you've described in your post, but again it could be something else.
Do a search online on problems for your specific model, I'm sure you'll find something that could possibly help you out.
Good Luck.
 

Gooch

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Joined
May 30, 2009
Messages
676
Location
Petersberg, IA
Got a less than 2 year old GE gas dryer. Was working fine until last week. The dryer was working and wife opened door and threw in more clothes and tried to restart it and nothing.
So far I've checked continuity on the door switch, start switch and checked for power at the outlet to make sure it's getting proper power.
I had to take apart the whole damn dryer skin to see if it had a thermal fuse or something and couldn't find one. Called GE's customer helpline and tech told me the safety fuse is the high limit thermostat???
That doesn't sound right. Pulled it anyway and I don't think it's bad because if I check continuity it has it after you wait 5-10 seconds. I'm thinking the heat from my hands causes this. It's consistent...

About to go buy another one but this one is really basic (I'm not a fan of the $1800 electronic dryer setups) and it's not even 2 yrs. old.

Can anyone throw me a lifeline? I'm drowning in this mess. :confused:

Is there a wiring diagram on the back panel? If not what's the model number?
 

Nostraquedeo

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Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
501
Do you hear the motor turning? Can you feel heat if you hold the door switch and put your hand in there?
 

davidlee

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Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Messages
275
Location
Pensacola, Fl
If nothing is working at all then I think one of the high limit/ safety switches has got it shut off. There are usually located on the tube that houses the element. They are a direct contact thermal switch. You should have continuity through the high limits since they are just a safety switch.
 

Jagmandave

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Joined
Nov 6, 2011
Messages
6,311
Location
Overland Park, Ks.
Is this one of those with a bunch of fancy contols, lights and buttons on the front?

Cause mine used to quit all the time too, when it did I'd unplug it for a few minutes, then plug it in again and it was like nothing happened. Ours also doesn't like it if you stop it mid cycle and try to restart it - the answer is not to do that!

Lately it's been working fine again.....

I followed all the online suggestions about tightening the connections and so on - nothing.

Took the top off and checked all the connections and everything, nothing helped except to unplug it.
 

domain

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Joined
May 16, 2010
Messages
902
Unless she opened the door, held the switch in, and left the heat running, I do not see it tripping a hi limit thermostat. Ignitor is the first place I would check, ohms then power.
 

Socophreak

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Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
231
Theres a few things you need to check.

Is the unit actually trying to ignite? Gas? Ignitor (glow or spark)? Or is it just sitting there. Is there voltage at ignition module or coils? Is the unit calling for heat?

These kinds of situations, Make, Model, Serial will help greatly, Wiring diagram helps way more though.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
11,948
Location
South of omaha
Stupid question but Ive got to ask anyway,120v at plug/dryer plugged in?
Youd be surprised how many no heat and dead appliance calls Ive gotten over the years for simple stuff like blown fuses/tripped breakers
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,252
Location
Modesto, CA
I am no expert, just advice, make sure that the passage way for the 'excess lint' is free and clear of lint all the way to the outside outlet. It usually is an opening by the dry'ers door with a screen that captures lint. I've found that if that passage way gets clogged (some dry'ers are designed this way, not all) that it triggers a sensor to shut down the dry'er and will not start till after it is cleared.
Another suggestion is it could be that the actual dry'ers heating elements have been exhausted (due to excessive lint clogging, no proper ventilation, etc.) and therefore cause's the dryer to shut down till it is replaced (I've replaced mine before no big problem to replace).
These are just a couple of things, from what you've described in your post, but again it could be something else.
Do a search online on problems for your specific model, I'm sure you'll find something that could possibly help you out.
Good Luck.

I don't think u read his post closely enough- he said it's a gas dryer! Gas dryers have burners NOT heating elements!
 

Gary S

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Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
2,972
Location
Bismarck, ND
That high limit switch sounds very questionable. It should have good continuity all the time unless it is heated to an overtemp situation. It should not take 5-10 seconds to get a reading with an ohmmeter. Either the meter is giving you a faulty reading, or the switch is gone.

Try a temporary jumper wire across the high limit switch. If the dryer fires and runs, get a new switch and install it. If it doesn't run, take a look at your meter and the meter leads.
 

Milton Shaw

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Joined
Feb 11, 2011
Messages
4,868
The high limit is bad from what you are describing. Some are on the rear air housing that goes around the back of the drum. Some of them are actually on the end of the heater housing on the lower right of the dryer. Take off the top, then two screws for the front and then you can remove the drum and check them. Belt must be on right to get the belt switch to activate.
 

Falcon67

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Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
When I have that kind of trouble with dryers, I make a little spade lug "patch cord" and jumper around the limit switch(s) one at a time. If the dryer starts, then you've found your issue. No need to an ohm meter, etc. If it's not that or the door switch, then if it's got a fancy control board your issue may be there. If it's a 120V modern appliance, you should have a surge protector on the power cord. Doesn't take much to wreck a digital control board.
 
OP
T

Toolhorder

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Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
5,711
Location
Montana
Figured it out finally.
Jumped around the high limit switch and no change. I decided to follow the power coming in to the motor and just start checking for any other problems I could see visually and I took off the front door/cover and noticed that there was an extra wire at the switch area I did not see before. Checked the wiring diagram in the back of the machine and noticed it's a 3 wire door switch circuit. Reconnected and then put the whole machine back together and it fired. One spade came off the switch lug and caused this whole mess. Pretty frustrating.
 
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