Sears Deal of the Day - 12ft - 175a - 12g jumper cables - $9.99

[rickhigginshtbr]

http://www.sears.com/wow-specials/dap-100000000108524

and for some reason, after I checked out for local pick up, it dropped another dollar to $8.99. That is a steal on a good set of jumper cables.

 

[RKA]

8 gauge copper clad aluminum wire

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

are you going to complain for $9? for emergency, still a sweet deal.

 

[motorcycle79]

Out of stock

 

[chris30066]

Ordered a set.

 

[jim2664258]

LOL. Two in-store pickup orders, both canceled due to 'out of stock'. Likely a pricing mistake they actually caught.

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

mine went through?

 

[WilltheEngineer]

Rick,
Thanks for the post......I think it's a good deal. As for the copper clad alum wire... Electricity travels on the surface, with only structure in the core of the wire...Alum will keep the weight down. For me, a great starting point for an Emerg. kit.

 

[mattamd_xp]

I just got 2 for $17 including tax after redeeming my rewards points. Local pickup had multiple ones in stock, but none showed available for shipping.

 

[tube_guy]

Rick,
Thanks for the post......I think it's a good deal. As for the copper clad alum wire... Electricity travels on the surface, with only structure in the core of the wire...Alum will keep the weight down. For me, a great starting point for an Emerg. kit.

That's not true for direct current. Skin depth is inversely related to frequency. With DC, current flows through the entire conductor.

 

[dirtydogintex]

somewhere in the basement of the Sears Tower,
along side of the nuclear reactor,
is a dart board....

 

[woodrail]

order confirmed and ready for pick-up! Thanks OP!

 

[RCL]

I'm in for a set.
Thanks to the OP.

 

[Trey T]

They're 8guage. Not even sure if it's worth the trouble or just hoarding.

 

[jim2664258]

LOL. Two in-store pickup orders, both canceled due to 'out of stock'. Likely a pricing mistake they actually caught.

Third store was a charm. Between where I live and work, there are a lot of Sears stores around me. Still think something in their system screwed up the first two.

 

[In The Doghouse]

None available at my local Sears.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[badgcoupe]

Thanks, just ordered 2

 

[Galaxie]

Got two, for those picking up:

Had to get mine in the Auto Center, normal pickup had no info about the order.

It was then 10 minutes of back and forth because I only "put a deposit of $20 on them" After that got cleared up the guy walks over to the shelf and pulls two sets off, so mine weren't set aside when I ordered 4 hours earlier.

Haven't opened the box yet but 1 set will go in the truck and the other will probably go in the shop. Be ready for a not so smooth transaction if you pick them up at the store.

 

[Muffduster]

8 gauge *****. I'll stick with 0 gauge welding wire cables.

 

[dodge610]

Just picked up mine tonight got the last set they had. Had put them in my cart earlier when I saw the deal of the day. Finally ordered them and when I got there expected an un smooth transaction surprise went off without a hitch not bad for the price they will go in the truck as an emergency pair.

 

[djb2]

8 gauge *****. I'll stick with 0 gauge welding wire cables.

8 gauge aluminum is perfectly fine for a discharged but still good battery -- when someone leaves the lights on. It just takes a minute or so to restore enough charge that the battery itself can provide most of the power to start the car.

It's not enough when the target battery is worn out and you attempt to put most of the starting current through the jumper cables.

Personally I would rather have a set of 20' thin, light, flexible copper cables in the car than a short, heavy set of bulky cables that get left in the garage.

 

[BTC]

Thanks for the link. For ten bucks it doesn't seem like a bad deal, and I currently have no jumper cables. I probably won't be using them to jump start my John Deere. My store actually sold out of them, so I won't be able to pick them up for another week or so.

 

[Interex]

Jumper cables are old school. I always carry one of these now:

Will start a car or truck completely on it's own.

 

[Hardline4]

Walked in the store and got mine off the shelf. Had to show the manager the deal via the web site off my iPhone but was able to get it marked down.

As for jump boxes, I've had several and they never seemed to have a juice to jump off my vehicle. And the maintenance of having to recharge just kills it for me.

 

[Interex]

As for jump boxes, I've had several and they never seemed to have a juice to jump off my vehicle. And the maintenance of having to recharge just kills it for me.

The junk ones (example: Harbor Freight) will do that to you. Booster Pacs are commercial grade and have never left me stranded. Jumped a completely dead dual battery diesel truck with it once. Started it like it was nothing!

The reviews speak for themselves: http://www.amazon.com/Booster-ES2500-Peak-Jump-Starter/product-reviews/B0002SQTYG/

 

[BTC]

As for jump boxes, I've had several and they never seemed to have a juice to jump off my vehicle. And the maintenance of having to recharge just kills it for me.

I agree. I've never owned one myself, but all of my experiences with them have been negative, with a fall back plan of jumper cables. That's not to say they aren't great, and in certain situations, such as when there isn't anyone around to provide a jump, might be just plain awesome.

 

[Danglerb]

8g copper clad aluminum won't do any better than a cheap jump box.

My concern with aluminum wire is how long before it breaks due to being flexed.

OTOH I don't have a jump box and leave my nice booster cables in the garage.

 

[RKA]

are you going to complain for $9? for emergency, still a sweet deal.

I'm not criticizing, just clarifying since your post indicated 12g. Whether it's worth it depends on the application. The buyer can figure that out for themselves.

 

[WilltheEngineer]

That's not true for direct current. Skin depth is inversely related to frequency. With DC, current flows through the entire conductor.

In reference to “Skin effect” you’re correct, as the opposing field or counter EMF in AC, in the wire. My statement is different (though could easily be as the skin effect or skin depth). As for a vehicle’s cranking amps (even with low voltage) starting circuit/system, to keep it short, the Alum & Copper surface wiring, the electricity will be more on the surface.

Danglerb, good point on the alum wire wear & tear, someone using them a lot, prob not want these.

 

[tube_guy]

In reference to “Skin effect” you’re correct, as the opposing field or counter EMF in AC, in the wire. My statement is different (though could easily be as the skin effect or skin depth). As for a vehicle’s cranking amps (even with low voltage) starting circuit/system, to keep it short, the Alum & Copper surface wiring, the electricity will be more on the surface.

Now I'm intrigued. Can you please explain?

 

[Alchymist]

Now I'm intrigued. Can you please explain?

The only effect here is that the copper coating will have a lower resistance than the aluminum core - but being thin, won't carry a lot more current. In effect, it's two resistances in parallel - the copper being one and the aluminum being the other. Depending on the resistance of each, the current will divide up, some taking the copper path, some the aluminum.

Overall, the copper coated aluminum will carry more current for the same voltage drop than an aluminum conductor by itself. But it will carry less than a pure copper wire of the same size.

 

[tube_guy]

The only effect here is that the copper coating will have a lower resistance than the aluminum core - but being thin, won't carry a lot more current. In effect, it's two resistances in parallel - the copper being one and the aluminum being the other. Depending on the resistance of each, the current will divide up, some taking the copper path, some the aluminum.

Overall, the copper coated aluminum will carry more current for the same voltage drop than an aluminum conductor by itself. But it will carry less than a pure copper wire of the same size.

I can see that being true, but since the thickness of the copper is so small, I'll bet the effect of replacing aluminum for copper over that small of a cross sectional area has a pretty small effect on the voltage drop over a 24 foot length. Even with the high currents involved in jump starting. But I guess it really depends on how much aluminum gets replaced with the copper.

WilltheEngineer said "Electricity travels on the surface, with only structure in the core of the wire." I can see that being the case intermittently, for milliseconds, as the current drawn through the cables rapidly changes with changes in load. But overall, I don't think that's true. I would have guessed that the copper plating on the aluminum wire is actually to decrease required maintenance and improve the connections between the conductors and the clamps, where just solid aluminum wire would corrode over time unless they were treated with some greasy oxide inhibitor. And in the area of that conductor to clamp connection, I think the decrease in voltage drop by using the plated wire over an untreated, uncared for, solid aluminum cable would be significant.

 

[djb2]

WilltheEngineer said "Electricity travels on the surface, with only structure in the core of the wire." I can see that being the case intermittently, for milliseconds, as the current drawn through the cables rapidly changes with changes in load.

You are being generous will "milliseconds". It's well under a millisecond -- perhaps a 100 microseconds before the center of an 8 gauge aluminum conductor is carrying most of its share of the load.

The copper plating is as much for marketing as it is for corrosion resistance and good electrical contact.

 

[idculbertson]

somewhere in the basement of the Sears Tower,
along side of the nuclear reactor,
is a dart board....

Mine have been ready for pickup for a week now, only nobody knows where they are. Automotive department claims order "does not exist". Called customer service and they said that they couldn't get anybody at the store to answer the phone, but my order was there....then asked if i would like to buy anything else. If i was not laughing so hard i might have been mad. Maybe the bottom of sears tower....

 

[benny27]

They where out of them when I went to pickup. Told me to try back after thursday when they get their truck.

 

[BTC]

My local Sears also sold out when they ran this special. Their truck came in yesterday and I picked them up last night. I didn't have any jumper cables, and for 10 bucks they are better than nothing.

I just noticed that the title of the thread says 12 gauge, which isn't correct.

 

[Trey T]

It was free shipping for two so I jumped on it. Gave it to two people as a gift. $20 well spent.

I'll stick to my 20' 2-guage set.

 

[a1z2s3x4]

Deal of the day again - back today only @ $9.99

http://www.sears.com/diehard-12ft-175a-8-gauge-booster-cable/p-02871302000P

Chris

 

[EdJack]

I went over to the local Sears Auto Center to buy these just now. They are really, really, really, cheap. Very thin gauge. The insulation looks to be a very thin and cheap grade vinyl. And the clamps are small and cheap looking. The picture makes the clamps look heavy duty. But they are really flimsy and spindly looking.

Pass.

Honestly, I've had speaker wires in my car that are more heavy grade than these jumper cables.

I'd almost be afraid to wire up two car batteries with these things, for fear of overheating and burning out the wires and insulation on these. Just not worth it at any price, from a safety standpoint. I don't think I would even use these if they were free. I'll call AAA first.

They do have some nicer sets over at Sears. I think I'll wait it out until one of the other sets goes on sale.

 

[a1z2s3x4]

Well ****...wonder if I can cancel my order...

Being 8-gauge and $10, I didn't expect top-shelf quality, but the picture made the clamps look beefy...

Chris