Need advice on routing my airlines.

[ripper70]

Hello everyone. Im just starting my electrical in my new 30 x 40 shop. I need some ideas on what material to use from my compressor to outlets on walls. My compressor is located 12 feet away from shop in what i call my shock shack(has 400 amp panel,compressor,200 amp panel for barn and shop,exc) Ive got conduit ran to shop underground for main air line coming in. What should i use for main line coming in, main line in ceiling, and vertical lines dropping down.Everyone says to use black iron but i live on Oregon coast, seems like water in pipes would rust on inside. Some advise would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

[mtwaterguy]

Back iron, galvanized or copper. Your choice. You shouldn't have any rust problems. With that said. There are plenty of threads on this topic. You might try searching, you'll be amazed at the results.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Based on the thread title, I thought you're an air traffic controller

Tipsy

 

[Luci Fur]

Based on the thread title, I thought you're an air traffic controller

Tipsy

LOL....

Ripper, I used this as a guide to set my air lines.

http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+Layout

 

[OccupantRJ]

I work in manufacturing, am well versed on pipe threading, have all the tools, am running black pipe in my shop right now. For an average guy, i suggest to use copper. It will be easier. If I had it to do again, I think I would go with copper. With screw pipe, you need access to a lot of different fittings and ****** lengths to work uninterrupted without chasing parts. With copper, you can make the lengths you need on the spot in a matter of minutes. With black pipe, you will find yourself settling on available pipe lengths to save on threading. With copper, you can fit to right where you want it with no problem.

 

[rancherbill]

Ive got conduit ran to shop underground for main air line coming in.

Over time that will fill up with water (condensation) inside the pipe. I'd install the air line with a slight slope and put in a tee fitting pointing down. I'd attach a 1/4" line and bring it to the surface and put a drain **** on it. Then you could get the water out of the system.

 

[CNGsaves]

With compressor in out-of-way place, you are more likely to not drain water from tank (ie humans forget) so I'd pursue an auto-drain on compressor.

Also, I'd put in black pipe Franzinator right after compressor to take out as much moisture as possible before it ever gets to air line system. I'd avoid the buried air line system as wrong direction (ie low air line system is sure fire way to collect water). Instead, I'd build air line system up near ceiling so air has to travel through black pipe to remove moisture along the way. No harm in having black pipe air line system exposed between buildings. The Sharpe1.com website has excellent layout that shows drops first must go UP before the air can go down the drop . . . . this helps minimize moisture as bulk of air keeps going down the air line system helping drop out moisture.

 

[PhantomEB]

My next one is gonna be all copper, routed straight up out of the compressor in the corner but with a T fitting right there for a drain as well outlet to a air hose reel for access to the back lane. Then will follow the ceiling edge and have drops down in each corner as well halfway points of the wall as I fully intend to have at least 8 outlets, 2 with reels (one at front and one at the back in between the doors). A full perimeter but not a full loop for leak detection.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Having a shop with straight walls will make it easier to run your airline. Once you start having to run it around different things, you'll have to cut/thread more pipe taking up more time.

I found a pipe vise at a swap meet for 8 bucks and bought a cheap pipe threader. I made what short pieces that I needed.

 

[ripper70]

situation i have i really dont have a choice but to go underground.That being said what should i use for the run in conduit? Some kind of poly maybe? Once in shop i can switch to copper or black iron.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm using a piece of hydraulic line from te compressor to the first sectionof pipe on the wall. I'm not sure if that would be a good idea for that 12' run or not.

 

[CNGsaves]

situation i have i really dont have a choice but to go underground.That being said what should i use for the run in conduit? Some kind of poly maybe? Once in shop i can switch to copper or black iron.

If you're forced to go underground with the air line system, I'd recommend hydraulic hose for that "In-Conduit" section. For $35 you could go 1/2" x 12 ft at Tractor Supply:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/hydraulic-hose-1-2-in-2-wire-144-in-l-1819999

I'd still recommend getting air as dry as possible BEFORE it went through that underground conduit.

 

[skulldrinker]

I read the subject and what went through my mind was this guy needs an air traffic controller.

 

[mattmankow]

I am using heavy duty truck air brake line. 3/4" and can make any bends I need. Easy to cut and work with. Totally corrosion proof. Check it out as an option.

 

[Caterpillar Cowboy]

Used Pet pipe (red in floor heating stuff) and it's been good for 3 years. used air brake ends and those are pricy for the bigger stuff, but it works great.

 

[ripper70]

I think im going to go with hydraulic hose from shed to shop underground, then copper for the rest i guess. Copper is dang expensive though. Ill have to see how much all the pipe and fittings will be before making my final decision. Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[NHBandit]

I work in manufacturing, am well versed on pipe threading, have all the tools, am running black pipe in my shop right now. For an average guy, i suggest to use copper. It will be easier. If I had it to do again, I think I would go with copper. With screw pipe, you need access to a lot of different fittings and ****** lengths to work uninterrupted without chasing parts. With copper, you can make the lengths you need on the spot in a matter of minutes. With black pipe, you will find yourself settling on available pipe lengths to save on threading. With copper, you can fit to right where you want it with no problem.

You do know that if you plan it out carefully before you buy the pipe that Lowes will cut & thread black iron pipe for you at no charge don't you ? I'm sure that Copper will get the job done. I just prefer the durability and ease of assembly I get from Black iron. No clue what copper would cost but I just bought everything in 1/2 " Black iron including fittings, 7 QD couplers, etc. at Lowes and it came to right about $200 to do my 30x40 shop.

 

[jumpingryan]

I hope this thread doesn't disintegrate into a debate on copper (could there be anything better yet more expensive) vs black iron (cheaper yet rusting by the hour) vs galvanized (flaking in your air tools) vs PVC (exploding and killing so many souls) vs PEX (who knows, someone has to try it) airlines vs the extra long air-hose (tangles so easily yet so cheap).



Anyways, regarding fixed air lines:

Black iron is cheap when you have to purchase new, but it is a pain to work with if you don't have exact measurements or the tools to cut and thread. Copper is easy to work with on site, but expensive when new.

Looking on the used for sale websites such as Kijji and Craigslist can lead to cheap copper rip outs that could be re-purposed for air. Alot of people now are converting to pex water lines during renovations for a variety of reasons not relevant to this thread. I have seen alot of used copper and fittings on the used market at decent prices that would get you 20 to 40 years of service as airlines. Second hand stores such as the Re-store are also a great place to look for good bargains.

Good luck!

Ryan

 

[OccupantRJ]

You do know that if you plan it out carefully before you buy the pipe that Lowes will cut & thread black iron pipe for you at no charge don't you ? I'm sure that Copper will get the job done. I just prefer the durability and ease of assembly I get from Black iron. No clue what copper would cost but I just bought everything in 1/2 " Black iron including fittings, 7 QD couplers, etc. at Lowes and it came to right about $200 to do my 30x40 shop.

Yeah, I am now WELL aware of the skill of the big box employees at threading pipe.
Even though I have all the tools, I decided to get a piece of pipe while in my car one day, so had Lowes cut and thread the ends to length to save labor and to get it into the car. I had to show two of them how to properly use a measuring tape and the threading machine before it was over. My soul was crying out in quiet impatience and agony to just get my stuff and escape. Never again. I teach enough employees at work. If a person has jogs to work around, it takes a bit of creative fitting to have the hard pipe hug the surface properly as it progresses. Thread takeup and thermal expansion considerations come into play, and sometimes after tightening a fitting, you may have to change lengths on a section to get it to lay properly, especially around and between corners and offsets. I take it back apart to cut a little off and rethread if that is what it takes.

 

[compressor guy]

look into a prevost piping system. google it. its simple to install

 

[CNGsaves]

look into a prevost piping system. google it. its simple to install

This your attempt at ADVERTISING? Appears to be glorified PVC . . yikes!!

OP is already in the know that copper or black pipe steel is way to go.

 

[ShiftedSolutions]

This your attempt at ADVERTISING? Appears to be glorified PVC . . yikes!!

OP is already in the know that copper or black pipe steel is way to go.

Odd... I thought PVC was plastic not aluminum... Anyway we all like copper, thats agreed on except for the budget part. Black pipe works well too but there are a lot of alternatives starting that are worth looking into IMO. Kinda like we would have never thought you could run all the water lines in a house with flexible plastic hose (PET). But with advanced materials things are getting lighter and easier to work with.

 

[djm999]

look into a prevost piping system. google it. its simple to install

The Prevost looks pretty good but I can't find a vendor. Has anyone actually purchased this?

 

[Bill T]

I bought my copper pipe from Habitat for Humanity Resale store. A business had donated it because it had oxidized (turned dark brown). I bought 2000 feet of 3/4" hard pipe for $200. I just have to spend a little more time cleaning the joints before soldering.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I bought my copper pipe from Habitat for Humanity Resale store. A business had donated it because it had oxidized (turned dark brown). I bought 2000 feet of 3/4" hard pipe for $200. I just have to spend a little more time cleaning the joints before soldering.

You made out like a fat rat! Try soaking the ends in Coca Cola.

 

[Albiemanmike]

I bought my copper pipe from Habitat for Humanity Resale store. A business had donated it because it had oxidized (turned dark brown). I bought 2000 feet of 3/4" hard pipe for $200. I just have to spend a little more time cleaning the joints before soldering.

That is just an insane deal right there bravo for you!

 

[socapots]

That's one hell of a deal right there.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I went through a small town today that had a mom and pop hardware. It was closing, and everything was at 50%. I stopped in and bought the rest of the pipe fittings for my air line install at half price. I won't argue with that.