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OSB, which side?

krisway

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Newfoundland, CA
I will be using 7/16" OSB for a ceiling in my garage. I noticed one side of the OSB has lines printed for lining up the studs. The opposite side looks like some sort of sealant sprayed on. Is there a right or wrong side to screw up to the ceiling?

Also, how hard will it be trying to catch a 2x4 stud with screws on the edge of a sheet of this 7/16" OSB. Will screws bust through the edge of the OSB? Can the edge be safely drilled for a pilot hole first?

Is there a recommended number of screws that should be used per sheet? The rafters are 2x4's, 24" OC. The Home Depot website says that the 7/16" OSB is supported by 24" on centres, so for that reason I'm NOT using strapping. And each sheet weighs 50lbs.
 
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Gary S

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When I use OSB on the inside of a building, I put the shiny side out so it paints up nicer. When I use it outdoors, I put the rough side out. On a roof, you want that rough side to keep you from sliding off.
 

NUTTSGT

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When I use OSB on the inside of a building, I put the shiny side out so it paints up nicer. When I use it outdoors, I put the rough side out. On a roof, you want that rough side to keep you from sliding off.

Spot on Gary.


Sometimes you can put a screw in along the edge and not have a problem, other times, it'll push the edge out. Predrilling will take extra time but should prevent it from happening.
 

GRX

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From what I remember the shiny polyurethane coated side is supposed to be toward the elements to prevent moisture damage.
 

Rixter58

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Just a small piece if advice. If you plan to paint it, if at all possible, get a coat or 2 on it before it goes up. Don't ask me how I learned this.
 

burgie

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Krisway...

Not to derail the topic...but why not 1/2" sheetrock on the ceiling? After it is taped and painted with a nice white eggshell finish it really reflects the light to illuminate the space better...

Plus, regardless of what the website says, strapping evens out the ceiling and takes the curse out of bows in the trusses to provide a more uniform consistant ceiling flatness. Just my opinion after having done it both ways numerous times in the past...

Good luck on the project and show up some pictures!!!
 

NUTTSGT

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Just a small piece if advice. If you plan to paint it, if at all possible, get a coat or 2 on it before it goes up. Don't ask me how I learned this.

Rolling paint on the ceiling isn't bad, I'd suggest throwing some safety glasses on, I got a speck of Kilz stuck to my contact and ruined it.
 

NUTTSGT

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Krisway...

Plus, regardless of what the website says, strapping evens out the ceiling and takes the curse out of bows in the trusses to provide a more uniform consistant ceiling flatness. Just my opinion after having done it both ways numerous times in the past...

Good luck on the project and show up some pictures!!!

I put blocking up between the rafters when I hung the 7/16" OSB on my ceiling. A few extra bucks spent on a 2x4s for blocking was worth not having it sag over time. I also have a framing nailer which made it easier to put in.
 

Rixter58

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Rolling paint on the ceiling isn't bad, I'd suggest throwing some safety glasses on, I got a speck of Kilz stuck to my contact and ruined it.

He is right. My point was that if you paint them when they are laying down, you get a much smoother finish because the primer/paint flows into the low spots.
 

GRX

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Rollers? I used an industrial type sprayer to do my garage (osb walls, sheet rock ceiling). The type which drops right into the 5-gal bucket. :D
 

Falcon67

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From what I remember the shiny polyurethane coated side is supposed to be toward the elements to prevent moisture damage.

This. The Tech Shield I used has the "shiny" OSB side out on the roof and the aluminum coated rough side facing in, per the mfg instructions.
 

ddawg16

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I'm assuming this is NOT an attached garage?

Personally, I would not do OSB for the ceiling due to potential fire spread....with OSB up there, you have NO chance of a fire being contained....that is the worse place to have a combustionable material.

If this is an attached garage....well....I hope you live alone.....

One other note...drywall will be cheaper than OSB...easier to get a good finish....will have a better temp control....will take less paint....and just overall easier to work with.

And if your getting advice from HD...that is your second mistake.
 
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libom

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It is normally shiny IN. Thats why the lines are on the other side. Yes it does seem backwards. Like others said if you could go with something besides OSB it would be better.
 

Toomanytools?

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I'm going to say no to OSB on the ceiling, sheetrock would keep you in code with the local building inspector. Cost per sheet is less for rock, you need to use a Kilz or other such to hide the ink label on OSB.
 

dirttracker18

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I'm assuming this is NOT an attached garage?

Personally, I would not do OSB for the ceiling due to potential fire spread....with OSB up there, you have NO chance of a fire being contained....that is the worse place to have a combustionable material.

If this is an attached garage....well....I hope you live alone.....

One other note...drywall will be cheaper than OSB...easier to get a good finish....will have a better temp control....will take less paint....and just overall easier to work with.

And if your getting advice from HD...that is your second mistake.

I have to dsiagree with your assumption there.

Have you ever seen a fire where drywall was? That paper on the outside spreads the fire around. I may not get through the drywall but it will spread.

OSB on the other hand is very hard to ignite. While it may burn through, it would require a very intense fire to do so. OSB does not burn very well.

In other words the drywall will light easier and spread around, the OSB is very hard to ignite but can burn through, albiet slowly.

I do agree with not using it in an attached garage. In that application, stopping the spread to the dwelling is paramont. In my detached garage, stopping the fire in the first place is more important.

Having used both and seen some slag light up my drywall and spread, I always use OSB in my shop now.
 

dirttracker18

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I'm going to say no to OSB on the ceiling, sheetrock would keep you in code with the local building inspector. Cost per sheet is less for rock, you need to use a Kilz or other such to hide the ink label on OSB.

Not here, OSB meets code in a detached garage. Mine was built with all permits less than five years ago.

The inspector completely agreed with my reasoning for OSB. His was the same way for the same reason.
 

ddawg16

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I have to dsiagree with your assumption there.

Have you ever seen a fire where drywall was? That paper on the outside spreads the fire around. I may not get through the drywall but it will spread.

OSB on the other hand is very hard to ignite. While it may burn through, it would require a very intense fire to do so. OSB does not burn very well.

In other words the drywall will light easier and spread around, the OSB is very hard to ignite but can burn through, albiet slowly.

I do agree with not using it in an attached garage. In that application, stopping the spread to the dwelling is paramont. In my detached garage, stopping the fire in the first place is more important.

Having used both and seen some slag light up my drywall and spread, I always use OSB in my shop now.

And I have to disagree with your statements.....your never going to see OSB approved as a fireproof wall.

And is slag did light up the paper on the wall...it's pretty obvious it wasn't painted....

OSB hard to light? I guess you haven't talked to any firemen.....

As for code in a detached garage....it's detached....that's why it meets code....or lack there of....
 

SteveCh

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No problem with predrilling holes around the perimeter. Or even countersinking if you can stand the labor. It is faster to just use nails around the perimeter unless you are hiding the fasteners when you paint and do not want the outline of the nail heads showing or something.

You can set the boards up on a sawhorse and predrill before you install, too. That is obviously faster. You are also drilling downward with gravity help and can go quite rapidly around the edge.

I have had zero issues with nails causing any tear-out or crumbling at the edges. And no predrilling. Of course, if you have someone to help hold it up, screwing will be easier than holding a nail in one hand and a hammer in the other, unless you are using a pneumatic nailer, which I have no experience with myself.
 

DirtRoad

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Lowell, Mi
Just got done hanging 7/16's in my pole barn. 24"oc trusses, they where already strapped, but i would have if they werent already.

Im happy i went with it instead of drywall. I am now able to hang my lights, pull down lights and retractable reels anywhere i want without worrying about hitting a stud.

The other reason i went with osb instead of drywall is because i have a polebarn. My buddy did drywall in his polebarn and now 5 years later every seem is cracked and chipping. We dont know if its because of it being a polebarn or because its not temp controlled.

I still need to prime and paint. Gonna use kilz original and any ole cheap semi gloss white paint i can find.
 

Falcon67

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I worked for 12 years - shot paint, built cars, welding, grinding, porting, chop saw, drilling, etc - in a shop with kraft paper walls. OSB doesn't bother me and has several advantages over drywall, including the floor jack bouncing off the wall when I "park" it too hard - vs a hole.
 

DirtRoad

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Only problem i had installing it was i ended up with some good sized gaps. Wasnt anything i could do about it, i tried to make them perfect as i could. Not to worried about it, i will just caulk the bigger gaps before i prime and paint.
 

walrus

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Personally, I would not do OSB for the ceiling due to potential fire spread....with OSB up there, you have NO chance of a fire being contained....that is the worse place to have a combustionable material.
.


Didn't spread in my shop ceiling which was OSB so I guess their is a chance
 
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