John's Garage Journal: 26" x 32" Brick Garage w/ Car Lift

[JDishong]

I welcome suggestions, comments, and constructive criticism on my 26' x 32' detached garage project. I hope you will share your lessons learned or your expertise along the way.... and now a few specs on my build.

UPDATE: SIZE changed to 28' x 34' (from 26' x 32').

 

[justintiime]

put a loft in! Thats almost exactly how my garage is:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142656&page=3

 

[stangman39]

Is that a program you used to draw/design the garage on the computer?

 

[JDishong]

justintime - Agreed. I'll make sure the attic remains "open". I may not finish it out on first pass but it makes sense to frame per those specs now. I will also add the gable windows as yours. - thanks.

put a loft in! Thats almost exactly how my garage is:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142656&page=3

 

[JDishong]

stangman39 - Home Design Suite 2012, by Chief Architecture.. $99. Very intuitive interface and pretty amazing image rendering. I'll post a few of these in a few minutes. Probably spent maybe 8 hours so far.

stand by for pics ..

Is that a program you used to draw/design the garage on the computer?

 

[stangman39]

Very cool. Thanks for sharing the info about the program. May have to look into that when I'm closer to breaking ground.

 

[SiGmA_X]

I'd strongly consider 12' ceilings, or at least a 12' hole above the lift. I'm sure you know what I'm about to suggest next - 2 post above ground or in-ground. Usability is far greater.

 

[JDishong]

SiGma - I did some quick research on lift heights and it looks like many 2-pole lifts are just under 11 ft tall (post height). Even though I plan to use an in-ground scissor lift, I see your point. I will plan for 10' tall garage door w/ 12' ceilings and see impact on budget. I assume major cost driver will only be the extra brick/stone work. My HOA requires 100% brick/stone combo. - thanks for reminding me to re-visit this. - John

I'd strongly consider 12' ceilings, or at least a 12' hole above the lift. I'm sure you know what I'm about to suggest next - 2 post above ground or in-ground. Usability is far greater.

 

[SiGmA_X]

Hey John,

The 12' is just to make building easy. My understanding is that 11ft is as expensive as 12ft, save insulation. I could see it being different with brick tho, makes sense. Also, I'm not sure what 2 posts you're looking at, but most all start at 11'9" and go up. Rotary, Mohawk (variable due to the hydraulic nature, freaking badass, but most expensive on the market), BendPak... I have a floor plate lift due to the building I am renting, and while it works, I would take a clear floor in a second. I knew the limitations of my floor plate, my old employer had 2 floor plates and 2 clear floors. Thankfully MY bay had the nicest of the clear floors, and the bay I kept my project car in when it lived there also had the other clear floor. I'd def talk to your builder, maybe you can do trusses that afford you 10' walls and 12' clearance, but I would really really want my bay to be 12' tall due to that fact.

See:
(141") http://www.rotarylift.com/uploadedF...st_Light_Product_Info/PAS_twopost_2012.05.pdf
(145") http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/two-post-lifts/
(144") http://www.mohawklifts.com/library/rough_specs/a-7.pdf
(152") http://www.mohawklifts.com/library/rough_specs/lc12.pdf

Just a couple things to think about, as clear-floor is an amazing thing. I've never worked under a clear floor scissor, but from a tech friend of mine who had 2 of those and 3 Rotary's at his previous shop, he strongly suggested if you can only have one lift, go with a two poster. If you can have two, by all means go with both! Access under-car is much more difficult, but I guess it depends on what all you plan to do with the lift/shop!

Keep up the drafting, garage design is looking good sir.

Roman

 

[JDishong]

Cost Analysis: 26' x 32' Garage

Garage construction cost will vary greatly on your location, but here is my cost break-down based on north Texas material & labor. This is a 100% brick/stone construction garage, 12' ceilings, attic storage, 12/12 sloped roof. Other noteworthy items are the peer/beem/post-tension slab and engineered i-truss attic flooring system. These were fairly major cost-drivers and I'm not totally convinced I will proceed with all of these.

The cost per sq ft comes in at $63/ sq ft. The link below is my speadsheet with all costs itemized.

Cost figures came from a combination of home builders along individual sub contractors. I still have some "tweeking" on cost to get this thing a bit lower.
-------------------
http://www.mowerboss.com/misc/Quote_Summary_26x32_Detached_Garage.pdf

----------------------

 

[JDishong]

Things have been real slow, so much residential construction going on it's hard to get reasonable quotes. I am going back to talk to a builder vs GC this myself. Not ,much cost difference.

- Finally got through HOA approval process for side yard variance.
- EE-6503 scissor lift arrived today !! (11-08-2012).
Hoping construction will begin before December.

 

[VET IT B]

Things have been real slow, so much residential construction going on it's hard to get reasonable quotes. I am going back to talk to a builder vs GC this myself. Not ,much cost difference.

- Finally got through HOA approval process for side yard variance.
- EE-6503 scissor lift arrived today !! (11-08-2012).
Hoping construction will begin before December.

Here are a couple photos of my lift:

Could you please measure the height of yours in the collapsed/lowered position?

 

[JDishong]

VET IT B - "resting height" is 10.25" or ~ 260 mm. The specification states 270 mm but the resting height is adjustable within 2 inches or so.

 

[Sachseguy]

Hey John, any progress on your garage? It looks like a great plan! I'm also planning to build a brick garage in North Texas and going through the steps to get to that point. I really liked your Cost/Quote Summary. It was very informative and well thought out. I especially liked your approach to the foundation since the expansive soil in this area is problematic (at best) and a good long-lasting slab certainly needs extra attention. Even with a decent budget, money is always a consideration and I certainly appreciate the need to plan and then reevaluate if needed. I hope you're able to get the garage you want without too many compromises.

 

[JDishong]

Yes, foundation being poured this week. I wanted to get some progress before posting pics ... I'll be sharing photos beginning next week.

In the meantime here is my photo gallery with up to date pics ( I won;t be posting all of these ).

http://johndishong.smugmug.com/Other/Garage-Journal/24290213_5Lk5q9#!i=2367015426&k=3dTM4xK

Thanks and glad you found the info useful!

Stay in touch,

Hey John, any progress on your garage? It looks like a great plan! I'm also planning to build a brick garage in North Texas and going through the steps to get to that point. I really liked your Cost/Quote Summary. It was very informative and well thought out. I especially liked your approach to the foundation since the expansive soil in this area is problematic (at best) and a good long-lasting slab certainly needs extra attention. Even with a decent budget, money is always a consideration and I certainly appreciate the need to plan and then reevaluate if needed. I hope you're able to get the garage you want without too many compromises.

 

[JDishong]

Foundation Forms & Plumbing Complete - Ready for pour!

Foundation Forms & Plumbing Complete.

1) 28' x 32' post-tension slab with dropped brick ledge.
2) In-ground scissor lift (EE6503), full-rise
3) 4 floor anchors
4) sink/ toilet on back wall (toilet will be capped for now)

Passed inspection and we're ready to pour Monday morning. Using integral color concrete (charcoal color). Note the amount of rebar in this thing .. a bit over-kill but I prefer it that way. This thing is going to eat up alot of concrete.

Pouring scheduled for this Monday!

 

[MacTexas]

Good luck on the pour, should be beautiful weather on Monday. You know Monday my trusses arrive so I will be busy documenting the activity. It took 12 days from the time trusses were ordered to delivery.

Question? Why are some of your rebar red and spaced so far apart? Where in N Texas are you located?

 

[JDishong]

I look forward to watching your framing work.

The red cables are post-tension cables. Typically, for slab-on-grade foundations, you either use rebar or post-tension. I am using a combination of both. Since concrete becomes stronger under tension post-tension slabs are common here in the north Texas region.

I'm located in Prosper, just north of Frisco or West of McKinney Tx.

Good luck on the pour, should be beautiful weather on Monday. You know Monday my trusses arrive so I will be busy documenting the activity. It took 12 days from the time trusses were ordered to delivery.

Question? Why are some of your rebar red and spaced so far apart? Where in N Texas are you located?

 

[JDishong]

Foundation Pour Done!

Completed concrete pour today. Total of 43 cu yds of concrete with Integral Color (Charcoal).

BELOW: Used a concrete pump to transfer concrete.

 

[mattgarrett]

Thats alot of concrete for a 28x32 slab, thats like 16" thick average for that square footage. I don't think you will have to worry about anything breaking. Looks like you put some good amount of thought into your build. Did you GC it yourself or hire the builder?

 

[JDishong]

I think you are right Matt. I'd say it s bit over-kill. Elevated slab makes it challenging to keep the beam widths narrow over the full height. You can see from previous photos that some beams are nearly 20" wide.

I ended up using a local builder ... vast majority of sub-contractors in the area are happily employed by builders.

Thats alot of concrete for a 28x32 slab, thats like 16" thick average for that square footage. I don't think you will have to worry about anything breaking. Looks like you put some good amount of thought into your build. Did you GC it yourself or hire the builder?

 

[MacTexas]

Now I understand why yours is $63 per sq ft verses my $50 per sq ft. There is twice as much concrete as my 32 x 32.

 

[JDishong]

There a few cost-drivers here .. foundation being one. The other is the attic sub T&G flooring Engineered I-joist ... maybe $3k - $4k adder. On the positive side, I should be able to store engine blocks in the attic

Now I understand why yours is $63 per sq ft verses my $50 per sq ft. There is twice as much concrete as my 32 x 32.

 

[JDishong]

Framing underway

Framers came today. Waiting on i-joist beams.

 

[MacTexas]

Good to see the walls go up. Hope you don't have to wait 12 day for the trusses like I did.

 

[JDishong]

I-Joist and sub-flooring

I-joist sub-flooring in and roof framing complete. Now soffits and roof next week.

Monster header for the 18' wdide garage door (below)

Bottom view of I-joist beams ( 16" tall beams to span the 28' wide design ) (below)

 

[MacTexas]

Looks good. Are the walls 10' or 12'?

 

[CNGsaves]

That's pretty stout-built garage. Sure you're glad to see it coming to life!

Curious about a few items:
a) Why in-ground scissor lift in middle of garage?
b) Walls made of 2x6 or 2x4?
c) How will you get stuff up to attic to take advantage of I-beam joists?
d) Have you considered adding a dormer in garage roof on left side that would be smaller version of look of the house (ie natural light)?

Looking good. Keep the pics coming!!

 

[JDishong]

The walls are 12'. I wanted to make sure I don't punch through the ceiling when a car is on the lift

Looks good. Are the walls 10' or 12'?

 

[pumalex]

damn that's a nice house and neighborhood.

 

[JDishong]

see answers below -- Thank you!

" a) Why in-ground scissor lift in middle of garage?"

Good question .. I came to the realization that:
(1) I want to use 100% of the floor when the lift is not in use. I didn't want to work around posts.
(2) I don't think I will use the lift more than 1 - 2 times per month and occasionally for those extended times when my car is "out of service" for a week or two.
(3) I wanted maximum room around the perimeter of the vehicle on the lift. Note the four floor anchors around the perimeter of the lift (hard to see in the pics). This will allow me to do some "light" frame/body work ( best to use center of the floor)
(5) I already have 3-car attached garage so not hurting for parking space.

"..b) Walls made of 2x6 or 2x4? "'
2 x 4 construction. I never thought the 2 x 6 could justify the cost increase.

"...c) How will you get stuff up to attic to take advantage of I-beam joists? )

What, I pole-vault from the driveway, wouldn't you ? .. actually the stairs go in the far back-left corner. Should get them soon.

"d) Have you considered adding a dormer in garage roof on left side that would be smaller version of look of the house (ie natural light)? "

I did consider that. At least I put windows in the front and rear gable walls :0. There comes a point in time when the budget just can't keep creaping up and up ... but yes, I did consider that. I guess I could add a dormer down the road somewhere. The loft area is really for storage only not living space .. at least for now.

Thanks!

That's pretty stout-built garage. Sure you're glad to see it coming to life!

Curious about a few items:
a) Why in-ground scissor lift in middle of garage?
b) Walls made of 2x6 or 2x4?
c) How will you get stuff up to attic to take advantage of I-beam joists?
d) Have you considered adding a dormer in garage roof on left side that would be smaller version of look of the house (ie natural light)?

Looking good. Keep the pics coming!!

 

[JDishong]

Well thank you Pumalex. And thank you for your garage posting .. you don't know how long a thought over your staircase idea. I ended up going with 2-level in the corner and that's why I extended the garage 2 ft in both directions. You may see I "borrow" more of your design too, we'll see. thanks again.

damn that's a nice house and neighborhood.

 

[kyle@hcb]

Great start!

 

[SiGmA_X]

Progress looks great. They're moving quickly!

I completely get your reasoning for centering the lift. If you plan to never have more than one car under work at the same time, it should be -perfect-. If you ever had the possibility of 2 cars in there, it may be a hassle (example: one car on lift for major work, another car needing something small - we run into this a lot at my rented shop, but we can fit 2 cars deep so its not an issue). I also agree fully with the in-floor lift, I definitely want one in the future. I have a 2 post now because it fit the budget much better, but in my future home shop, I am planning to have both, because the in-floor results in 0 floorspace taken up when not in use. And man, they're really easy to rack low cars on!!

Keep up the awesome work!

 

[JDishong]

More Progress -- stairs and roofing soon

Yesterday the stairway to the attic, today soffits, foam-board and roof sheets ... tomorrow the shingles go on!! I really like how the stairs do not seem to take up alot of space (no wall supports !).... and the loft area will prove to be very useful as well.

Inside coming along! Looks very open.(below)

Spent alot of time on this stairway design. Minimum footprint without the need for wall support below, turned out nice. (below)

Looking from stairway mid-platform down at the in-floor lifts (below)

My son has plans for the loft area ( we'll see )

Looking down the stairway (below)

Rear wall not installed yet (below)

End-support beam ( I-joists ). Adds strength (below)

Underside view of stairs (below)

View from back patio area(below)

Backyard perspective (below)

Post-tension cables get pulled soon, then electric, then brick/stonework!

 

[MacTexas]

Looking good. You have to be pleased.

 

[dvo]

So you did the cad work, printed blueprint, and contruct? Was there stuff that was needed in between those steps? Only asking because I'm using Chief architect to design my house and shop but I'm only at the drawing stage. Not sure what the real world process is yet.

 

[Coursey]

How wide did you make the stairway?

 

[JDishong]

So you did the cad work, printed blueprint, and contruct? Was there stuff that was needed in between those steps? Only asking because I'm using Chief architect to design my house and shop but I'm only at the drawing stage. Not sure what the real world process is yet.

I did the CAD using Home Designer Suite 2012 (by Cheif Architecture; $99). It was useful for space planning and 3-D renditions. I used AutoCAD LT for most of the building plans. I can send you a copy of my plans in PDF if you would like.

 

[JDishong]

How wide did you make the stairway?

It comes in near 38" - 40" wide.