galvanized pipe for direct bury ?

[therpmguy]

Looking for thoughts on using galvanized pipe for natural gas line to detached garage. I have already ran the line but have not tied it into the house yet. I ran it 2 years ago and I am at the point where I will be completing it soon but I am now wondering if I made the right choice. I assumed that it would be ok because that is what the utility company used to come into the house. It looks like people use a plastic gas line. I also used it in the same trench as my electric with some earth separating them. Should I be worried? I did this before I found this forum.

Thanks

 

[philjafo]

Galvanized is great protection against rust, but any imperfection will let rust get started, plastic doesn't rust, ever. The gas company switched to it for good reasons. I'm not going to tell you to dig it up and redo it with the stuff that's made for underground natural gas, but it wouldn't be a bad idea. I don't know the code for your situation but you might want to look it up before you put your line into service.

 

[James-W]

You definitely need to find out what the local code is for running natural gas lines underground. Aside from the obvious problems you could potentially have, I am not sure how your homeowners insurance would work should you have a loss due to the gas line you installed. As far as I know, if you do something that is not up to code and it causes a fire, explosion, or whatever else it may cause, you MAY or you MAY NOT be covered by your insurance, I really don't know how that would work. But in any case, before you go too far, I would certainly take the time to check into it. By taking a little time to find out now you just may save yourself a whole lot of headaches later on down the road.

 

[therpmguy]

Thanks for the responses. I will check the code to see about the potential insurance issues. My main concern was about the safety aspect. I don't meat to minimize the potential code and insurance issues but safety is my primary concern.

 

[sjt78]

I just had the gas company come and move my meter from the basement to outside. They ran a new plastic pipe from the main line at the street through my old metal pipe to my house. So I'd imagine if your galvanized pipe is a suitable size, you could alway push a plastic pipe through and be safe. I have no idea about the gas and electric sharing the same trench.

 

[Socophreak]

You really shouldn't use galvanized pipe on gas. The sulphur content in the gas can cause the galvanized coating to flake off inside the pipe and block things like meters, orifices, valves, etc.

I would recommend using a pipe rated for direct bury like PE.

 

[spotco2]

And that is why sediment traps are required at each appliance if using hard pipe.

 

[CNGsaves]

Do NOT use galvanized in ANY FASHION for natural gas - - - even more especially since it's buried. That line is junk for NG.

Dream up some other use for that buried galvie steel pipe . . . . like:
a) air line from garage back to house
b) conduit that something else could be put inside (ie cable TV, internet, intercom system, etc)
[None of above uses for that buried galvie will kill you when the galvie rusts through . . . . . whereas rust thru of NG would be BIG PROBLEM!!]


Now for the buried natural gas . . . . you absolutely should re-trench another for yellow polyethlene plastic pipe in say 1" IPS (iron pipe size - - ie thick wall yellow plastic pipe), that is at least 18 inches underground (or deeper that complies with your state and local code - - some states say 30 inches minimum). Thus, give the gas company a call, or a plumber. On each end of yellow plastic pipe, you'll attach a Riser that transitions the yellow plastic pipe to steel that is L shaped (ie goes from below ground to above ground). These connect with a Stabloch connector. In that new trench, you're also required to have Tracer wire (again yellow in color) that is wrapped around the yellow plastic pipe so later on that gas line can be located.

A quick call you can make to get costs and all the parts you'll need is Groebner & Associates in Kansas City Area (Shawnee, KS). Talk with Joe and he'll give you lowdown on risers, shutoffs, tracer wire, stablock connectors, yellow plastic pipe (it's 55 cents a foot) that you will need.

Do not jerry rig this buried natural gas line . . . . Do It Right the first time . . . . that's with yellow plastic pipe. It's most SAFE method and cheap.

Use the Garage Journal feature up on black line called SEARCH and put in "buried natural gas" as your keywords. Some other threads that have covered this same buried gas line issue are:

Natural Gas Line - - Cost To Install
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170881&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Cost To Run Natural Gas Line To Garage
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181258&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Running A New Underground Natural Gas Line
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178009&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Anodeless Service Riser?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137458&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Run Natural Gas Line Underground
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32833&highlight=buried+natural+gas

 

[therpmguy]

Thank you

 

[6768rogues]

Our gas company will not accept galvanized pipe due to the zinc flaking off and plugging things downstream.

 

[djjsr]

I have already ran the line but have not tied it into the house yet. I ran it 2 years ago and I am at the point where I will be completing it soon but I am now wondering if I made the right choice.

Did you check the code before you did it? Is the project required to have a permit and inspection? Or did you disregard these things because somebody told you "It will be fine"?

I don't mean to bust your chops but I often hear about (or read on this forum) someone doing something that is required to meet a code of some type but they are do-it-yourselfers and don't want to be bothered with the red tape.

Codes are there for your safety and the safety of future residents of the property.

 

[dave67fd]

Did you check the code before you did it? Is the project required to have a permit and inspection? Or did you disregard these things because somebody told you "It will be fine"?

I don't mean to bust your chops but I often hear about (or read on this forum) someone doing something that is required to meet a code of some type but they are do-it-yourselfers and don't want to be bothered with the red tape.

Codes are there for your safety and the safety of future residents of the property.

Well said. Consider the liabiliity against you if there are future residence and something happens. In my town you need a licensed installer to pull gas permits. They won't issue to homeowners.

 

[MrMark]

In California everywhere I have seen uses galvanized pipe for gas interchangeably with black iron.

Buried pipe should be either PE or black iron with a factory PVC coating with any field couplings wrapped. It has been done this way for a hundred years.

In fact, the local codes REQUIRE galvanized fittings and pipe where exposed to the elements. The GAS COMPANYs fittings and pipe at the meter are galvanized, anything else would rust to bits.

 

[CNGsaves]

In California everywhere I have seen uses galvanized pipe for gas interchangeably with black iron.

Buried pipe should be either PE or black iron with a factory PVC coating with any field couplings wrapped. It has been done this way for a hundred years.

In fact, the local codes REQUIRE galvanized fittings and pipe where exposed to the elements. The GAS COMPANYs fittings and pipe at the meter are galvanized, anything else would rust to bits.

What you been Smokin out there in Cali ??? Have you even bothered to make a phone call to your gas company?? Have you driven by their work yard and actually seen what they are installing now-a-days for both residential and business NG service drops??

Recommending to OP that he should consider burying black iron pipe (even with coating) is virtual WASTE of money . . . . as he'll have to TEAR IT OUT and Do It Right once any permitting agency has found out what he's done!!

Gas companies have buried steel for their high pressure pipelines (ie main distribution lines) BUT . . . that is BIG BUT . . . they have attached sacrificial anodes that prevent rust to the pipe itself.

TODAY's standard buried natural gas and propane distribution lines for customer drops are yellow polyethlene plastic pipe (ie thick wall plastic).

 

[MrMark]

Do you have some vested interest in making this same recommendation you make over and over again referring people to some guy in Kansas City?

You have no clue what you are talking about. The California Plumbing Code allows either coated black iron or PE pipe for underground runs. There is no special anode or other mumbo jumbo required for the black iron either.

Do you want the quote?

The gas company uses PE because it is cheap and it lasts a long time. So does factory coated black iron, which has been the standard for 100 years and is still used extensively to this day in residential construction as allowed by the Code. My house just had black iron buried with NO coating (in violation of Code) and it was probably 50 years old with no leaks.

I couldn't care less what the gas company is doing on their side. I care about what the CA plumbing code requires and factory coated black steel is very much allowed.

And galvanized is locally required and EXTENSIVELY used outside. In fact, you would have to be an idiot not to use galvanized above ground outside. Even the gas company knows this.

 

[MrMark]

This is what I've been smoking, the CA Plumbing Code:

Here's a sample from a sample City (not where I live)

Last time I checked Gas Company did not make code.

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS


Above-ground gas pipe must be black steel, galvanized steel, or brass. Copper is not acceptable. Gas pipe must be at least 6" above the ground unless it's a type approved for burial. Buried gas pipe is not permitted within any building or structure.
Every appliance is required to have an accessible shutoff valve within 3' of the appliance and ahead of the union connection to the appliance.

FITTINGS
The couplings or “thread protectors” which are commonly supplied with lengths of pipe are not tapered-thread type and are not permitted to be used. Ground-joint unions are only allowed at exposed appliance connections or outside the building on the outlet side of the building shutoff valve. In all other situations where a union-type
connection is required, a left-right ****** and coupling must be used. Bushings are only permitted in exposed locations and must not be used where they will be covered by permanent construction.


UNDERGROUND GAS PIPE
Underground gas pipe must be factory coated steel pipe, or approved PVC or PE gas pipe.
Factory coated steel pipe is required to be at least 12" below grade. All fittings, short *******, and nicks in the factory coating must be wrapped with tape which is listed and marked for that purpose. Such tape is commonly available in 10 mil and 20 mil thickness, but it must be applied spirally so that the final thickness is at least 40
mils. This type of underground gas pipe has to be separated from the above-ground gas pipe by a dielectric union or an electrically isolation fitting/ coupling.


http://sanbruno.ca.gov/comdev_images/California_Plumbing_Code.pdf

 

[mrobins297aaa]

we use to run underground gas lines in black sch 40 pipe all the time, and had them inspected and past. only requirement was they had to be covered in tar.

I'm sure there are plenty of installations out there like that and are 30-40 years old and still fine.

I've never heard of a problem using galv. pipe with gas although we never did it.
but not because of the flaking off of the galv. I think thats and old wise tale.
I think it was more because in the old days the water pipe was all galv and they didn't want someone cutting into a gas line in the house thinking it was a water pipe.
so in the detroit area it was not code to use galv pipe on gas lines.

the point i'm making hear is that galv pipe would last a long time, probably more than your life time the only thing i would be concerned about is the connections especially if they are not covered with some kind of protection (like tar) because when you cut the threads on the pipe you lose the protection that the galv provides.

that being said you should do what the local codes are. Just my two cents

 

[MrMark]

That's exactly right. The threads are not protected and thus the requirement of 40 mil of wrap or tar or something like that as you did.

 

[CNGsaves]

Do you have some vested interest in making this same recommendation you make over and over again referring people to some guy in Kansas City?

You have no clue what you are talking about. The California Plumbing Code allows either coated black iron or PE pipe for underground runs. There is no special anode or other mumbo jumbo required for the black iron either.

Do you want the quote?

The gas company uses PE because it is cheap and it lasts a long time. So does factory coated black iron, which has been the standard for 100 years and is still used extensively to this day in residential construction as allowed by the Code. My house just had black iron buried with NO coating (in violation of Code) and it was probably 50 years old with no leaks.

I couldn't care less what the gas company is doing on their side. I care about what the CA plumbing code requires and factory coated black steel is very much allowed.

And galvanized is locally required and EXTENSIVELY used outside. In fact, you would have to be an idiot not to use galvanized above ground outside. Even the gas company knows this.

You have no idea what state . . . .or that matter . . . what country . . . the OP lives in, as he hasn't told us!! I'm recommending the most SAFE method that he should consider as he was trying to jerry rig buried galvi for his natural gas which is a big No, No. Take a look above as he thanked respondents who gave him the low down.

It's pretty obvious you don't care about SAFETY as your install of buried black pipe illustrates. You might be lucky in your area of Cali that soil condition hasn't quickly rusted out that buried steel . . . BUT . . . your day is coming . . . SOON. When that NG gas line begins leaking, you might have a big BOOM when you go take a smoke outside. . . or inside if the NG leak follows crack in the ground and migrates into your house.

I have no vested interest in Groebner in KC area (I actually live over 200 miles away). They are just the recommended vendor in KC area for wholesale NG drop supplies - - one phone call to them (or call to your local GAS Company . . . which the OP should do first as well) will give you realistic prices of parts necessary to do the job (ie to ensure ballpark bids from plumber quotes in OP area are legit). Be Safe out there - - - no need for any CNN news events of blown up houses!!

 

[MrMark]

You don't know where he lives either! He was thanking people speaking old wives tales (like you) because he didn't know any better. You have absolutely NO EVIDENCE that PE pipe is the most safe. That is your biased opinion. In my opinion, I'd take that black iron any day, especially against a shovel hit.

I didn't install that pipe! I wasn't ALIVE (let alone a home owner) WHEN THAT PIPE WAS HACKED IN over 50 years ago! You should read before you speak. Further, my soil is full of salt water!

I would only do the GREEN coated black iron pipe and wrap it up with the PVC tape and primer. The PE pipe is too much trouble and expense for a short run.

Let's not get ridiculous here scaring this guy. His setup will probably outlive him. It is perfectly safe.

You guys act like the gas company is your friend and you can just call them and they will tell you what is legit! Good luck with that. The gas company isn't going to tell you squat as to what to do on your side of the meter. They don't get involved in that. The City gets involved in that if you can find anyone there with a clue.

Follow the Code. Local Codes vary on what is allowed. THis is one of the few areas where local codes vary from the CA Plumbing Code. In most places Black Steel with the coating is approved and used.

 

[CNGsaves]

You don't know where he lives either! He was thanking people speaking old wives tales (like you) because he didn't know any better. You have absolutely NO EVIDENCE that PE pipe is the most safe. That is your biased opinion. In my opinion, I'd take that black iron any day, especially against a shovel hit.

I didn't install that pipe! I wasn't ALIVE (let alone a home owner) WHEN THAT PIPE WAS HACKED IN over 50 years ago! You should read before you speak.

I would only do the GREEN coated black iron pipe and wrap it up with the PVC tape and primer. The PE pipe is too much trouble and expense for a short run.

Let's not get ridiculous here scaring this guy. His setup will probably outlive him. It is perfectly safe.

You guys act like the gas company is your friend and you can just call them and they will tell you what is legit! Good luck with that. The gas company isn't going to tell you squat as to what to do on your side of the meter. They don't get involved in that. The City gets involved in that if you can find anyone there with a clue.

Follow the Code. Local Codes vary on what is allowed. THis is one of the few areas where local codes vary from the CA Plumbing Code. In most places Black Steel with the coating is approved and used.

You must have TROUBLE READING your own micro-specific code for San Bruno, CA (ie can't be any more local than that). NO WHERE in your own cited code does it say BURIED Galvi is allowed . . . because buried galvi for NG is NOT allowed!! OP was specifically asking about using buried galvi for NG purposes.

Further, your own cited code says it IS PROPER to use buried yellow polyethlene plastic pipe for natural gas.

Your opinion is to disregard code, as you've chosen to install unprotected black pipe steel buried . . . . yikes!! I'm recommending to OP to do it right and be safe. OP can make his own decision. I sure hope it's buried yellow PE plastic pipe with appropriate risers on each end. That will be most SAFE install . . . and very affordable.

 

[MrMark]

You must have TROUBLE READING your own micro-specific code for San Bruno, CA (ie can't be any more local than that). NO WHERE in your own cited code does it say BURIED Galvi is allowed . . . because buried galvi for NG is NOT allowed!! OP was specifically asking about using buried galvi for NG purposes.

Further, your own cited code says it IS PROPER to use buried yellow polyethlene plastic pipe for natural gas.

Your opinion is to disregard code, as you've chosen to install unprotected black pipe steel buried . . . . yikes!! I'm recommending to OP to do it right and be safe. OP can make his own decision. I sure hope it's buried yellow PE plastic pipe with appropriate risers on each end. That will be most SAFE install . . . and very affordable.

Reading comprehension is not a strength of yours. I would say a lot more but I don't want to get further infractions for insults.

I DIDN'T BURY THAT PIPE; IT WAS PREXISTING!!!! READ

I NEVER SAID BURIED GALVY WAS ALLOWED! I SAID BURIED BLACK STEEL WITH COATING WAS ALLOWED.

I never said PE pipe was not allowed!

I don't live in San Bruno - [READ]; I just cited a representative sample. Cities in CA aren't just free to ignore CA plumbing code and make up their own. There are very few departures from State Code and they have to be justified by the City based on local topographical conditions or soils or some unique feature. This issue on pipe is left up to the locals by the State Code. Most cities allow PE or black pipe with coating as does the CA State Code. How can I make this more clear for you?

I'm through responding to you. You resort to attacking arguments I did not make in a feeble attempt to score some credibility back and to save some face - it's not working. It's like you are having a conversation with yourself as you appear incapable of responding to statements or arguments that I have actually made. You've now got yourself quite a little pile of straw.

You were caught exaggerating and speaking falsely and that is all.

 

[CNGsaves]

Reading comprehension is not a strength of yours. I would say a lot more but I don't want to get further infractions for insults.

I DIDN'T BURY THAT PIPE; IT WAS PREXISTING!!!! READ

I NEVER SAID BURIED GALVY WAS ALLOWED! I SAID BURIED BLACK STEEL WITH COATING WAS ALLOWED.

I never said PE pipe was not allowed!

I don't live in San Bruno - [READ]; I just cited a representative sample. Cities in CA aren't just free to ignore CA plumbing code and make up their own. There are very few departures from State Code and they have to be justified by the City based on local topographical conditions or soils or some unique feature. This issue on pipe is left up to the locals by the State Code. Most cities allow PE or black pipe with coating as does the CA State Code. How can I make this more clear for you?

I'm through responding to you. You resort to attacking arguments I did not make in a feeble attempt to score some credibility back and to save some face - it's not working. It's like you are having a conversation with yourself as you appear incapable of responding to statements or arguments that I have actually made. You've now got yourself quite a little pile of straw.

You were caught exaggerating and speaking falsely and that is all.

Actually not . . . you've attacked the idea that buried yellow polyethlene plastic pipe is SAFE. On that point alone, your own micro-specific local code in San Bruno, CA in black-n-white print says that buried yellow PE is allowed. In fact in this area (KS & OK), newly installed natural gas service drops MUST be yellow PE plastic pipe.

If anything, I could have used better wording when I replied to OP that his buried galvi was UNSAFE . . . which was major concern of OP. My only exaggeration was putting the phrase "in any fashion" which was too strong. However, from a mile away it was clear that OP didn't make any effort to determine what material should be used for buried NG use. Thus, my statement was bold on purpose so he'd know that black pipe steel is predominant material for natural gas (above ground) and that buried NG run should be yellow PE plastic buried DEEP.

That San Bruno, CA code cite only lists 12 inch minimum for buried NG which seems awful skimpy to me. In this area (KS & OK) there is 18 inch MINIMUM, and other states have 30 inch MINIMUM. Those warnings were provided to OP. Thus, likely would be SAFE practice to bury natural gas line at 36 inches (unless of course local codes wanted that line buried even deeper)!!

Never in your response did you bring up fact that dielectric union (or electrically isolated fitting/coupling) would have been required for OP if he went with buried steel. Use of buried yellow PE plastic pipe does away with this requirement as . . . . guess what . . . . plastic doesn't conduct electricity so lightning risk is avoided with yellow PE plastic pipe!! There's a reason that riser for yellow PE plastic pipe are ANODELESS ELL (ie these transition the underground plastic to steel above ground, since the plastic pipe itself WON'T rust, thus no need for anode).

I'll stand with my recommendation to use buried yellow PE plastic pipe . . . buried DEEP as required by state and local code where OP lives. Be SAFE out there . . . no need to take any shortcuts.

 

[MrMark]

CA plumbing code is 12" minimum if covered with concrete, 18" if not. Thus, it appears to be the same as where you live. Again, San Bruno cannot make this stuff up. They have to follow the CA Plumbing Code.

My response and quote of the summary of the CA plumbing code included the need for a dielectric union. See post 16. The gas company also puts a plastic bushing in at the gas meter for this purpose. Putting in the union is not expensive and it makes sense for serviceability. If that's what you are reduced to arguing (falsely) that I left out a union, then that is pretty pathetic.

I never once argued that PE was not safe. Show me where I said that. I said I prefer the coated black steel and argued that it was safer against a shovel hit. Saying the iron is safer against one specific danger is not the saying the PE is unsafe.

You act like you've just discovered some holy grail of gas piping. You've run exactly one 25 foot PE pipe from your propane tank and now you are some expert. People have been using coated black iron for probably 100 years now and it still endures as an approved and safe method. PE has been used since the 80's by gas companies and it has worked its way into residential - primarily because it is cheap for long runs over a proper coated black steel job - it is not some sacred product that you are making it out to be. It is an option that makes sense for a long run, but not a short one; nothing more and nothing less.

You show your lack of depth with the comment about the electricity. The gas company uses PE pipe off the main to the meter so there is no electric path in any case. It doesn't matter whether you go from the meter to the house in steel or plastic, no stray residential current is going to flow through the gas line. Moreover, the dielectric union is to prevent corrosion from occurring from galvanic action between dissimilar materials - not to prevent some lightning strike. Lightning will jump right over that little union.

 

[CNGsaves]

. . . . {clip} . . . It doesn't matter whether you go from the meter to the house in steel or plastic, no stray residential current is going to flow through the gas line. Moreover, the dielectric union is to prevent corrosion from occurring from galvanic action between dissimilar materials - not to prevent some lightning strike. Lightning will jump right over that little union.

Well here we go some more . . . . your love for steel is distorting the truth.

It absolutely DOES matter whether you go from house to garage in steel or plastic . . . IF . . . it's required by state or local code!!! COMPLIANCE with Code is compliance with code, is compliance with code!! OP has no idea of what his local/state code requires . . . you are guessing that buried steel at just 12" would be fine (based on your small world San Bruno, CA).

Local and state codes ARE different than your little part of world in San Bruno, CA - - - your cited code only listed the 12" minimum requirement, yet you now say it's 12" for concrete but 18" minimum otherwise (not what your code copy said). Both local codes and GasCo practice in KS/OK area are REQUIRING newly constructed buried natural gas service between buildings to be yellow PE plastic pipe. Old buried covered black pipe steel is grandfathered, but cannot be used for new installs.

Your comment above about stray electric not being able to leak between house and garage is simply untrue, as garage tap-in to main gas line would be PAST the meter and in direct connection to house gas line feed. Thus, the new buried steel (ie like the OP idea of buried galvi) would now become a direct ground from NG service line that went into house to furnace, etc. . . . and then on over to garage, possibly electrifying entire steel NG pipe run all the way to hanging garage heater (ie if proper dielectric unions were not used).

I'm recommending SAFE solution for the OP question (see the Title above "galvanized pipe for direct bury?") which is yellow polyethlene plastic pipe. It's that simple. It will work, it's affordable, it's Code, and best of all its SAFE!

 

[CNGsaves]

Little reminder of 2010 . . . . MrMark somehow forgot about benefits of buried yellow polyethlene plastic pipe (ie PE) for natural gas.

Below is his recommendation in 2010 to GJ guy trying to jerry rig some CSST.

Yellow PE plastic pipe was good solution in 2010, and still great idea in 2013.

 

[CNGsaves]

More relevant informaton on the "CSST in conduit" thread at:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85106&highlight=csst+conduit

CSST guru's clarify the very specific requirements of proper installation - - - can be done but proper venting required. Yet, lightning risk is still there for buried steel between buildings - - - can be mitigated somewhat - - - - but I'd rather just avoid it entirely by using buried yellow polyethlene plastic pipe.

 

[ishiboo]

To further piss CNG off (why is he always on a crusade anyway?), my vote is for soft copper.

Reason being, unlike coated black pipe (which lasts a long time and I wouldn't say "don't use") which is harder to find and work with, and yellow PE which requires a special chamfer tool and stablok fittings which are hard to source for the average homeowner, soft copper is easy as pie to source, can be terminated easily by the homeowner with an inexpensive flaring tool, and lasts basically forever. By the time you're ready to dig it up, it will be worth enough in scrap to pay for whatever composite pipe is in favor at that time... so you're practically investing too

IMO inside the home, I personally feel better with black pipe or CSST (even though my house has soft copper), but underground/outside it's a no-brainer if you don't already have the stuff to do yellow PE.

Note - soft copper is not allowed in all areas.

 

[CNGsaves]

To further piss CNG off (why is he always on a crusade anyway?), - - just trying to help the OP as indicated.

my vote is for soft copper.

Reason being, unlike coated black pipe (which lasts a long time and I wouldn't say "don't use") which is harder to find and work with, and yellow PE which requires a special chamfer tool and stablok fittings which are hard to source for the average homeowner, soft copper is easy as pie to source, can be terminated easily by the homeowner with an inexpensive flaring tool, and lasts basically forever. By the time you're ready to dig it up, it will be worth enough in scrap to pay for whatever composite pipe is in favor at that time... so you're practically investing too.

IMO inside the home, I personally feel better with black pipe or CSST (even though my house has soft copper), but underground/outside it's a no-brainer if you don't already have the stuff to do yellow PE.

Note - soft copper is not allowed in all areas.

LMAO . . . . totally amazing that you're finding it fun to degrade idea of installing SAFE solution for what OP was asking - - thus buried yellow polyethlene plastic pipe is great soluton versus dangerous buried galvi.

As for Ishiboo using soft copper for his all natural gas pipe . . .
[rarely as good a solution as black pipe steel (indoor) or yellow plastic PE (buried outdoor)] . . then Econ/Darwin 101 didn't seem to register!! Let's see 55 cents a foot for yellow PE plastic for buried NG, versus expensive copper?? Plastic doesn't conduct electricity for buried NG run, but copper is one of best electrical conductors available??

Ishiboo . . .Try getting permit for buried soft copper in conduit over to a garage!! LMAO . . . .

P.S. The chamfer tool to install yellow plastic polyethlene pipe for buried NG was $29.86 . . . whoopee, broke the bank on that one!!

 

[kazoma]

http://www.teenbar.net/showthread.php?1506-magazine-page-teen-homepage-health&p=3256#post3256Do NOT use galvanized in ANY FASHION for natural gas - - - even more especially since it's buried. That line is junk for NG.

Dream up some other use for that buried galvie steel pipe . . . . like:
a) air line from garage back to house
b) conduit that something else could be put inside (ie cable TV, internet, intercom system, etc)
[None of above uses for that buried galvie will kill you when the galvie rusts through . . . . . whereas rust thru of NG would be BIG PROBLEM!!]


Now for the buried natural gas . . . . you absolutely should re-trench another for yellow polyethlene plastic pipe in say 1" IPS (iron pipe size - - ie thick wall yellow plastic pipe), that is at least 18 inches underground (or deeper that complies with your state and local code - - some states say 30 inches minimum). Thus, give the gas company a call, or a plumber. On each end of yellow plastic pipe, you'll attach a Riser that transitions the yellow plastic pipe to steel that is L shaped (ie goes from below ground to above ground). These connect with a Stabloch connector. In that new trench, you're also required to have Tracer wire (again yellow in color) that is wrapped around the yellow plastic pipe so later on that gas line can be located.

A quick call you can make to get costs and all the parts you'll need is Groebner & Associates in Kansas City Area (Shawnee, KS). Talk with Joe and he'll give you lowdown on risers, shutoffs, tracer wire, stablock connectors, yellow plastic pipe (it's 55 cents a foot) that you will need.

Do not jerry rig this buried natural gas line . . . . Do It Right the first time . . . . that's with yellow plastic pipe. It's most SAFE method and cheap.

Use the Garage Journal feature up on black line called SEARCH and put in "buried natural gas" as your keywords. Some other threads that have covered this same buried gas line issue are:

Natural Gas Line - - Cost To Install
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170881&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Cost To Run Natural Gas Line To Garage
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181258&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Running A New Underground Natural Gas Line
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178009&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Anodeless Service Riser?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137458&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Run Natural Gas Line Underground
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32833&highlight=buried+natural+gas

Hi thanks for that. However did you had that last link or was it part of the original list ? (the one I have hilighted in red ? thanks

 

[ishiboo]

LMAO . . . . totally amazing that you're finding it fun to degrade idea of installing SAFE solution for what OP was asking - - thus buried yellow polyethlene plastic pipe is great soluton versus dangerous buried galvi.

As for Ishiboo using soft copper for his all natural gas pipe . . .
[rarely as good a solution as black pipe steel (indoor) or yellow plastic PE (buried outdoor)] . . then Econ/Darwin 101 didn't seem to register!! Let's see 55 cents a foot for yellow PE plastic for buried NG, versus expensive copper?? Plastic doesn't conduct electricity for buried NG run, but copper is one of best electrical conductors available??

Ishiboo . . .Try getting permit for buried soft copper in conduit over to a garage!! LMAO . . . .

P.S. The chamfer tool to install yellow plastic polyethlene pipe for buried NG was $29.86 . . . whoopee, broke the bank on that one!!

There's nothing UNSAFE about it. You seem to ignore industry practices, the gas code, and years of safe use and parade your own agenda about what people should install. Soft copper is proven and in use everywhere.

There is no need to put the copper in conduit, and a permit is non-issue to get if it's approved there... if it's not, of course you can't... just like PEX or NM. The only places where it's not are primarily areas with high sulfur contents which is bad for the pipe and thus not usable anyway.

Copper is more expensive than yellow PE for sure, but once you figure in the fittings and tool I think it's quite competitive, and he can go out and buy the stuff at his local big box store today for a reasonable price.

 

[smhaque]

I know something about AJG Distributing LLC and I want to share this. This is a distributor of EZ Pipe (Tobacco Lighter Pipe). I like this so much. This is a discrete pipe along with smoking pipe and others. I was surprised when I saw this pipe in a website like 4ezpipe and you can check out this. Please share your opinion about something like this.