Can't find my CH box specs on the internet

[IONH]

I am attempting to figure out what main panel is installed at my house.

There is only one sticker on the right side which appears to have something like a model number, CH24JM200.

It is a 200 amp box as you can see in the pictures.

Can anyone give me any info on it? Specifically the number of allowed circuits as I do not know if tandem breakers are allowed.

It is maxed out on single breakers right now. Really, over-max because while looking for the model number, I saw two of the breakers had two wires going in a single breaker which I know is against code.

Thanks in advance.

 

[pattenp]

It is maxed out with 24 circuits. The 24 in the number indicates it's only a 24 circuit panel.

 

[Norcal]

It is a older model, not a current catalog item, there are no twin breakers avail. for it. The panel is a oldie but a goodie, copper bus, no cheesy plastic like SQ D & others.

Eaton/Cutler-Hammer makes twins but the panel is not listed for them, BTW, the label w/ the specs for that panel is on the side of the box either on the left or right, I was POed when C-H started to make a twin breaker for the CH series loadcenters as I dislike using twin breakers.

 

[IONH]

Wow, so apparently the box is already maxed out.

It is difficult seeing as I have baseboard heat which requires 8 of the circuits right away. they are not currently 220V breakers right now but probably should be instead of two 110V. I also have an electric dryer (50A?), detached garage (30A), double oven (30A), induction cooktop (50A) and play room sub panel (20A). I am clearly forgetting offhand what two of the 220V breakers go to. The panel was not labelled when I moved in so I've just flipped off breakers until I found the item I was working on when necessary.

I guess my best option is to put in a subpanel. Or do you think I should pay to have the main panel replaced with a newer one. Do you think this would be a full day's work to swap out boxes or can they do just the guts (bus bar) to upgrade it?

You can make out in the picture that there are I believe 2 110V breakers on the left which are piggybacked and possibly two on the right, so I should fix that. Best (easiest for me) would be to reuse the existing wiring which I believe runs down the center beam of the basement in most cases and that is where the panel is located. So I won't have any slack to pull back the wires and put a box right next to it.

 

[pattenp]

See if the label on the panel list CTL breakers. That would mean it will take twins. I doubt it list CTL, but it's worth a look.

Edit: I may be wrong on this. I'm a little confused by the Eaton info on panels that take twins. I'm sure Norcal is correct.

 

[IONH]

See if the label on the panel list CTL breakers. That would mean it will take twins. I doubt it list CTL, but it's worth a look.

Where would that label be?

As you can see, the box is very cluttered from before my ownership. I used a flashlight to try and spot any labels but they were difficult to find.

 

[pattenp]

The label will be on the inside side of the box.

 

[aandpdan]

It really is your call as to subpanel or replace with a larger panel. It will likely be less expensive to put in a subpanel as there is a lot less work and you won't need the meter pulled. You can still get breakers for it so there is no real reason to replace.

As the others said, that is a good quality solid panel. If it was me, I'd pick up another CH series panel to install as a sub.

I do think you need to do some clean that panel up a bit. Some of those wires are a bit short and stretch damn close to the mains. What's up with that spice?

 

[Norcal]

Here is a couple of photos, the first one shows a interior from a Cutler-Hammer CH "Classic" loadcenter, the the silver tabs on the lower parts are the ones that accept twin type breakers.

This photo shows the label on the right side of the box on a older C-H "Classic" loadcenter.

The pic may or may not show up correctly, in any case the label is on the right w/ the main lugs (not shown) on top.

 

[IONH]

It really is your call as to subpanel or replace with a larger panel. It will likely be less expensive to put in a subpanel as there is a lot less work and you won't need the meter pulled. You can still get breakers for it so there is no real reason to replace.

As the others said, that is a good quality solid panel. If it was me, I'd pick up another CH series panel to install as a sub.

I do think you need to do some clean that panel up a bit. Some of those wires are a bit short and stretch damn close to the mains. What's up with that spice?

I have only put one romex into the box since I've lived here. The rest was all prior owner / electrician shenanigans.

How would you make a wire which is currently too short long enough?

The wires are currently going through a finished ceiling across the entire basement garage (I'm guessing).

 

[aandpdan]

How would you make a wire which is currently too short long enough?

The wires are currently going through a finished ceiling across the entire basement garage (I'm guessing).

You can splice wires in the panel if you have to. If you put in a subpanel and need to extend wires you could use a junction box - as long as it is accessible.

 

[Speedy Petey]

Are you guys sure it's not a 24/40 or something like that? I don't know C-H CH series very well, but I find it hard to believe a 200A MB panel is limited to 24 spaces and circuits.
I'd be very interested to see the label or panel directory.

 

[IONH]

Are you guys sure it's not a 24/40 or something like that? I don't know C-H CH series very well, but I find it hard to believe a 200A MB panel is limited to 24 spaces and circuits.
I'd be very interested to see the label or panel directory.

I will try to get a picture of the labels on the right side and post them.