Pour a foundation in the NE now or wait

[rlme36]

Hi all,

finally got the permit for my new space 36x30 and was wondering what the collective advice is towards pouring the new foundation with winter fast approaching in CT. The other consideration is that the building of the structure will not happen until late March at best, THANKS To the ****** S&P crapping the bed, but anyway I digress. So is there an need for concern?

I plan to cover all the misc fittings for the radiant heat, but will the sunlight damage the little bit of vertical slab insulation that would be exposed?

thanks in advance

rob

 

[uparms]

Good, question. What are some of the "timing" considerations some of us shoule take into consideration?

 

[uparms]

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[kbs2244]

There is no frost in the ground yet. Even by you.
If the price is right (the general slowdown can be to your advantage) go ahead and pour it.
Duct tape garbage bags around anything that sticks up and you are afraid of exposing.

 

[BooUrns!]

I'm not sure what is typical for your region but the majority of concrete work is completed by the fall here. Pours still do happen in winter but there are higher risks of cracks and uneven settling in the springtime. If a builder already has his foundation poured, he will build the first floor to cap the structure and heat the basement to prevent damage to the concrete from frost expansion.
Two years ago, I saw a foundation that settled so much in the springtime that it broke free of the grade beam and dropped 15" on one corner, and this occurred while the framer was getting ready to put his roof trusses up.

 

[blkhonda1991]

if you arent starting the rest of the structure now the only reason i can see to pour now is hopefully the concrete price will be cheaper but otherwise, why the rush?

 

[rlme36]

There is no frost in the ground yet. Even by you.
If the price is right (the general slowdown can be to your advantage) go ahead and pour it.
Duct tape garbage bags around anything that sticks up and you are afraid of exposing.

I am more concerned about it curing and we have a frost or a very cold night. Earliest start is next friday and should take about two weeks according to the contractor. Oh course in that time frame I need to get the pex tubing down as well.

 

[rlme36]

if you arent starting the rest of the structure now the only reason i can see to pour now is hopefully the concrete price will be cheaper but otherwise, why the rush?

no real rush just want to get the project going. If I wait till spring it would wind up being early/late March due to frost and it would be a lot messier since the area will be soaking wet from thaw and early rains.

 

[z28toz06]

I poured my arage foundation in November 2 years ago. It snowed on us while we were putting the building up. It will take many weeks of very cold temperature to pull the heat out of the ground enough to cause you in issue here in Ct.

I have poured foundations for large satellite dishes in February. I ordered High early mix and just put a plastic tent over it with a 100 watt chicken lamp in side it. Never had an issue. It is still in the ground in one piece. The important thing is iron in the pour.

 

[Junkman]

I also live in CT, and I poured my garage foundation in the middle of winter, and have had no problems at all. The ground was frozen, but the excavator had no problem breaking through the frost. I would go for the footings and walls now, and if you get lucky and find a framer that is needing work, then have him start the framing. I would wait on the PEX and floor until the building is up. Lot less problems that way. Some carpenters want a solid floor to frame on, but it isn't necessary. I did the concrete floors in my cellar last, and the same with the first garage. It is a little more work, but it isn't that much more that I would rush to get the floors done before the building. Concrete is running around $100 a yard, and add $10 a yard for heated water. When I built my home, I had the foundation poured, and then it was a year later before I started the building itself. The foundation being exposed to the elements did no harm. If the concrete work is done right, then there is no problem. If it is done wrong, then there is no end to the problems. Now is the time for you to learn what is right and wrong, before the contractor gets started and tries to pull the wool over your eyes. Where in CT are you building???

 

[rlme36]

Where in CT are you building???

Hi I am down in the Ridgefield/Danbury area. I was actually on the phone this morning with the concrete guy and as soon as I told about the structure delay he mentioned I could use tarps or just pour the walls and then I don't have any concerns about ice checking the floor while it cures. I think I'll go this route, just to get it going. Its like being a little pregnant I guess. I'll still tarp the area inside the walls just so its not soup in there, no sense in it becoming a pond.

Thanks for all the responses. This has eased some of my concern about this stage in the project.

rob

 

[Junkman]

I would use 2" Styrofoam boards against the foundation prior to backfilling, to protect the side walls from the frost. Depending on your site, it might be good to install a perimeter footing drain, and if you are in a area where there are ground water springs, then install a perimeter drain on the inside of the footing. You can connect the two together with pieces of plastic pipe that is put between the inside and outside prior to the footing being poured. I used 6" PVC scraps and then use 4" PVC perforated pipe on both inside and outside drains. The 4" pipe connected together through the 6" holes in the footing. I have a dry floor, but I have seen the perimeter drain moving water during the spring thaw and spring rains.

 

[rlme36]

I was planning on using styrofoam boards on the inside as prep to the floor as a thermal break. Are you suggesting to to the outside of the walls as well?

 

[dawg]

youll have no problems they use an additive to help prevent cracking etc.
poured my addition foundation (with cellar area) well over 180 yards of concrete with no problems last january

 

[Junkman]

The reason for the styrofoam on the outside, is that it will insulate the foundation from the cold, and will also help to keep rocks from damaging the foundation wall. I have seen where upon backfilling a rock will roll up against the foundation and crack the "green" concrete. Less chance of this when it cures, but who waits the 28 days for it to cure?

 

[BooUrns!]

I was planning on using styrofoam boards on the inside as prep to the floor as a thermal break. Are you suggesting to to the outside of the walls as well?

The reason for the styrofoam on the outside, is that it will insulate the foundation from the cold, and will also help to keep rocks from damaging the foundation wall. I have seen where upon backfilling a rock will roll up against the foundation and crack the "green" concrete. Less chance of this when it cures, but who waits the 28 days for it to cure?

If you're going to insulate the concrete on the outside and the inside then why not just use ICF forms for the concrete? It should cost the same as having traditional forms and 2" panels applied after and it will save you a lot of work. I'm sure with the current economic climate that there should be some foundation contractors willing to price their labour to make the final total competitive with traditonal formwork. ICF can be done by homeowners quite easily so a contractor shouldbe reducing labour charges.

I'd recomend LOGIX ICF since I've worked with it but there are a lot of other similar products out there. Just make sure your building dimensions are adjusted to the block increments so you don't end up having to cut blocks to fit odd spaces.