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Modifications to the HF 4 and 5 drawer service carts - what changes have you made?

jjjrmx5

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width :)


the cart is usually around 179, the cab is usually 199, the 44" is around 399.

My latest AutoWeek has a coupon for $164.99 for the red 5 dwr. cart good thru May 2013.

Even HF can't make up thier mind how to price these &^%$ing things.

LOLOLOLOLOLOLZZZZZZZZZ.

:)
 
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p912s

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SW Michigan
Not quite done with my cart but I had a camera in the shop so I took a picture and thought I'd share!

Top was reinforced underneath with steel channel and 1/4" plate on top to mount the lathe. The drawer catches were bent out of the way so the top doesn't need to be up to open them.

Last modification for now are pads on top of the bottom shelf connected with angle iron to make it sturdier on its casters. Otherwise with the weight of the lathe the bottom panel would flex a little. Those are getting painted now and will go in tomorrow night.

lathe.jpg
 
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When you buy the snap on hinges. Do You just need one item? Does the 10 dollar kit come with two hinges or do you have to buy two?
 

jjjrmx5

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When you buy the snap on hinges. Do You just need one item? Does the 10 dollar kit come with two hinges or do you have to buy two?

Snap-On kit comes with both hinges, all pins and cotters.
You will need to fab up a nylon shim for the lid for each side as well as buy longer pins w/cotter holes and washers. Not a biggie. Any hardware store supplies them.

Locking slide hinge set up goes on the right side if facing the cart. Elbow comes toward you.
Naked hinge goes on the left side and elbow comes toward you.

Search my s/n and you'll see the drill hole size and spec diagram.

KRBC8T9 is the hinge assembly p/n to order. Easy indeed.

:)
 
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raross

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Just noticing everyone is having the same problem I did when I first bought my blue point cart 10 years ago, the long handle pry bars won't fit in the top, and still allow the lid to close! I talked to my snap on dealer at that time, and he ordered me some sleeve's out of tubing, the top of them is flared, and the bottom of them is rolled closed, with around a 5/8" to 3/4" hole in the bottom, they are around 3" long. I took a greenlee punch in the top drawer hole plate, and made the holes the correct size for the sleeve, then I dropped the sleeves into the larger hole, problem solved, because now the handles fit lower into the tubing sleeve inserted into the plate! Just a thought so you now can close the upper lid.
 

kool_BOY8323

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Just noticing everyone is having the same problem I did when I first bought my blue point cart 10 years ago, the long handle pry bars won't fit in the top, and still allow the lid to close! I talked to my snap on dealer at that time, and he ordered me some sleeve's out of tubing, the top of them is flared, and the bottom of them is rolled closed, with around a 5/8" to 3/4" hole in the bottom, they are around 3" long. I took a greenlee punch in the top drawer hole plate, and made the holes the correct size for the sleeve, then I dropped the sleeves into the larger hole, problem solved, because now the handles fit lower into the tubing sleeve inserted into the plate! Just a thought so you now can close the upper lid.

not sure about any others, but my buddy has the blue point cart with a few of the sleeves, my OTC prybars are too big around to fit inside the sleeves at the handles, and so are his Mac prybars. i guess with handles smaller in diameter to mine the sleeves would work great.

i just take the 2 that are too long out and stuff em in the bottom at the end of the night. not a big deal. my buddy doesnt close his lid, so its not a problem for him either. i have been debating on cutting the holes larger so they fit, but my longest one would have to go through the bottom of the cart too, and i just dont want to mess with it.

cool suggestion thow, because some of us are a tad leary about cutting and drilling holes into the cart.
 

raross

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My snap on bars fit right into the sleeves! But I guess they would since it's the bluepoint cart, made by snap on! Find a Electrician you know and borrow his knockout punch, if you want to put these in, it only takes a few minutes to make the holes, for the sleeves with that style of punch, and if the punch dies are in good condition, there are no burrs using this punch method!
 

jjjrmx5

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Any construction differences between the 4 and 5 drawer carts, or just different setups and paint colors?

Drawer count, capacity/storage size (5 dwr is a little larger storage area), color and hinges vs. struts for the lid.

Other than that it's what you wanna pony $$$'s up for.

$99 or $164.99.

Aside from teh dwr. chassis rack I'm guessing the lid, lock system and rods, legs frame and casters are al shared.

i work in a mfg. facility full of both and can't see the difference.

Go down to the base HF square chrome leg cheap one dwr carts and then I can tell you stories.
Bad stories.\
LOLZ.
 
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ATC

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VA
I took a grinder and cut off the two black tabs in the back under the lid. This way, I can open the drawers without opening the lid.
 

Caconman424

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Jun 23, 2013
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Hey guys, So I recently got the 5 drawer cart and love. But im finding already that im out growing it... Fast. I like the idea of the side chest addon, but it got me, for the same price as the 7 drawer side chest, you can find 26 wide chests for about the same price that come with casters. Has anyone ever considered or actually done something like this???
 

kool_BOY8323

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Hey guys, So I recently got the 5 drawer cart and love. But im finding already that im out growing it... Fast. I like the idea of the side chest addon, but it got me, for the same price as the 7 drawer side chest, you can find 26 wide chests for about the same price that come with casters. Has anyone ever considered or actually done something like this???

i added the 7 drawer. it added all the room i needed. of course i still wanted to be pretty mobile. adding the 7 drawer made mine over 50 inches wide, so adding the 26 chest to it would be mindblowingly long IMO. somewhere like 70 inches if i remember the cart measurements correctly.

it could be cool however. get a 26 lower chest, and just place it next to your cart, get a feel for it. if you like it, bolt it on. if not, then you have a small satellite box.
 
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Caconman424

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i added the 7 drawer. it added all the room i needed. of course i still wanted to be pretty mobile. adding the 7 drawer made mine over 50 inches wide, so adding the 26 chest to it would be mindblowingly long IMO. somewhere like 70 inches if i remember the cart measurements correctly.

it could be cool however. get a 26 lower chest, and just place it next to your cart, get a feel for it. if you like it, bolt it on. if not, then you have a small satellite box.

Thats what I have kinda been thinking. I lined my box up next to another guys at my shop and got a little bit of an idea. My main concern are the casters and what directions they will want to go when wheeling it around (which I need to do a lot). Got any idea or suggestions for that for how to set up the wheels at all?
 

archirelic

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texas
Thats what I have kinda been thinking. I lined my box up next to another guys at my shop and got a little bit of an idea. My main concern are the casters and what directions they will want to go when wheeling it around (which I need to do a lot). Got any idea or suggestions for that for how to set up the wheels at all?

Read through the thread you're actually posting in & see that someone has built a frame to hold all the components. The same can be done w/the cart and 26 drawer arrangement you're thinking about.
 

kool_BOY8323

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Thats what I have kinda been thinking. I lined my box up next to another guys at my shop and got a little bit of an idea. My main concern are the casters and what directions they will want to go when wheeling it around (which I need to do a lot). Got any idea or suggestions for that for how to set up the wheels at all?

i added casters and filled in the gap between the 7 drawer and the 5 drawer cart.

20130305211500.jpg


its rough, but its been a while now and the wood hasnt broken down. the casters are HF too. also, you have to mod either the cart or the cabinet to get the lid to close. i chose the lid on the cart.

20130307171740.jpg


again, its rough. but its a working tool box so im not too horribly concerned with how pretty it is. as long as the paint doesnt peel off or get too banged up im good with it.

20130307103957.jpg


i posted A TON of pics in this thread with different stages of my mods to the cart...just skip back a couple pages.
 

ckblum

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BC, Canada
I bought the HF 5 drawer cart and was thinking about modifying it just like that with the side cabinet and using it for work. But I think I may be better off (financially and space) just buying the HF 44" and selling my old work box for a few bucks.

I'll keep my cart at home next to my Craftsman 27" cab. I even thought about joining them like someone mentioned before but it just seems kinda pointless at home.
 
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kapster

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Wooster, Ohio
Anyone have pictures/ specs/part numbers of the blue point bushings to extend prybars down so the lid closes, I've heard them mentioned here but not seen pics of them. How much does it lower them, how big a hole?
 

TerryH

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Springdale, AR
Not sure if you guys are interested but I did a mod that fits any pry bar or long handled screwdriver on mine. Pretty simple. The whole process is back on page 23, post #459.

Basically cut out the bottom of the pry bar area to fit however many pry bars or screwdrivers...

8500483049_06196321c9.jpg

Fit 2x2x1/8" aluminum angle under the area...

8501590468_5ec1b42204.jpg

Drill and paint...

8500508001_60abd2d80a.jpg

Works perfect...

8500747805_38ea713a2a.jpg

8501855546_26183b9eed.jpg
 

kapster

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Not sure if you guys are interested but I did a mod that fits any pry bar or long handled screwdriver on mine. Pretty simple. The whole process is back on page 23, post #459.


Yea I saw that, very nice setup. I will probably end up doing that. Just wanted to see how the blue point works/costs
 

sberry

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I like that red thing on the angle frame. I could ditch the lid in my case but that's nice. Paint the wood on the other unit and no one would think twice about it, looks great.
 
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Colin Len

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First off, wanted to say thanks to everyone here, this is a great forum that I'm only now starting to frequent more often. LOTS of great stuff here!

But back on topic... I was very quickly running out of space for my tools (I've only had my own garage now for a couple years so I'm acquiring tools every time I tackle a new project) and was inspired by Ford Guy's "doubling" up of the 4 drawer tool cart. It ended up being a little more work than I'd expected but that's typical, seems every project takes longer than I think it will.

The new drawer unit I purchased had a damaged bearing track so I had to return it for a new one, but HF was happy to oblige. Finally got the upper drawer unit mounted up Tuesday after work. I did one thing different as well, and that was to cut the center "blank panel" where the lower lock mechanism would be. I figured this was completely wasted space and if I opened it up a little I could put some small items there, maybe a notepad, mechanix gloves... something like that. It's not very usable space, but I figured it was better than nothing. I could have opened it up more but cutting lower or not keeping that "gusset" on the sides would have weakened the support for the top two drawers. I would have preferred to have a smaller radius on the gusset but this was gonna be a little tricky with the 3" cut off wheel. The cutting I did do did weaken it a little, but nothing I'm worried about yet, and it's only those two smaller drawers anyway so worst case scenario I just don't put heavy stuff in those two drawers.



Since there were lots of unused pieces left over I decided I would re-purpose the bottom tray by hacking it into a holder for some pry bars, torque wrenches, and my long breaker bar. I got it drilled and cut but then my dremel broke so I wasn't able to finish smoothing out the rough edges. Once it gets repaired I can finish this last piece (probably be a week or two)
 

jakemac

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I would have preferred to have a smaller radius on the gusset but this was gonna be a little tricky with the 3" cut off wheel.

You could get that smaller radius by drilling large diameter holes at the corners, an still have space to use the 3" wheel to connect the cuts. If there is a large portion of the bottom tray left over, you could leave it in the new space to help distibute the load. It won't be much, but something is better than nothing.

Alternately, you could have cut that front panel, with the lock, out and riveted a piano hinge to it to create a lockable door flap for that space.

Nice job on the cart. It's a good way to maximize with little payout. :thumbup:
 

ford guy

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First off, wanted to say thanks to everyone here, this is a great forum that I'm only now starting to frequent more often. LOTS of great stuff here!

But back on topic... I was very quickly running out of space for my tools (I've only had my own garage now for a couple years so I'm acquiring tools every time I tackle a new project) and was inspired by Ford Guy's "doubling" up of the 4 drawer tool cart. It ended up being a little more work than I'd expected but that's typical, seems every project takes longer than I think it will.

The new drawer unit I purchased had a damaged bearing track so I had to return it for a new one, but HF was happy to oblige. Finally got the upper drawer unit mounted up Tuesday after work. I did one thing different as well, and that was to cut the center "blank panel" where the lower lock mechanism would be. I figured this was completely wasted space and if I opened it up a little I could put some small items there, maybe a notepad, mechanix gloves... something like that. It's not very usable space, but I figured it was better than nothing. I could have opened it up more but cutting lower or not keeping that "gusset" on the sides would have weakened the support for the top two drawers. I would have preferred to have a smaller radius on the gusset but this was gonna be a little tricky with the 3" cut off wheel. The cutting I did do did weaken it a little, but nothing I'm worried about yet, and it's only those two smaller drawers anyway so worst case scenario I just don't put heavy stuff in those two drawers.


Nice job! It is kind of nerve racking cutting up a brand new cart. :willy_nil
I also looked at the empty space and thought about cutting it out like you did... I decided to take apart an old power strip & lay out the outlets, switch & breaker...


Don't feel bad about it taking longer than expected, I still haven't finished.
PM me if you want any detailed pics of my mods.

Bob
 

Colin Len

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ex x fire & Jakemac: Thanks!

Ford Guy: I assumed you'd finished it long ago! I'm actually in a bit of a hurry so I admittedly did mine a bit hastily. Mainly I'm just trying to make improvements to the garage before I start a large car project I'm undertaking as soon as I'm ready.

I like the outlet idea, not practical for my situation - but that's what's great about all of this customization!

I would say the big mistake I made with this tool box project was not masking off the bearing tracks for the lower drawer assembly. There was a lot of cutting done on that assembly and therefore a lot of metal shavings, of course these got into the tracks for the drawers. I tried to clean them out the best I could and then re-lubed them, but you can still feel the difference between the upper and lower assemblies. Even the lid hinge for the top assembly is a bit "creaky" now from metal shavings getting in there when I cut the holes for the drawer locking mechanism.

Speaking of which, mine is a little rough, it doesn't slide as well as I'd like. The upper and lower assemblies are not 100% lined up. I managed to get them in there but they bind a little. If I had more time and wanted to put a little more effort/money into it I could have rigged it up better, but honestly I don't care about the drawers locking (or at least I won't until I have to move this thing to a new garage). Mainly I wished that my welder hadn't been with a friend otherwise I would have just welded something up.
 
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