Shall I trade my Chinese/Taiwan 3.5 Ton Mac Tools Jack for a 2 Ton Walker USA jack?
- Thread starter Burgerkong
- Start date
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Well, I'll be going over in an hour or so. I'll negotiate on the spot, but I think it'll end up being $50, which isn't bad if it actually does only need fluid. He said when he went to refill it the fluid went everywhere because he forgot to release the pressure beforehand. Whether or not I trust that I'll have to give it a lookover. I'll show him the valves and see which one he opened up. If he doesn't point to the right one, I'm definitely dinging him because he probably fiddled around with the overload.
Ugh... Oil doesnt evaporate.. If its out of Oil, There is either a Oil thief in his Area or it has leaked out.
Ill let you decide which of the 2 scenarios seem plausible.
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
With the oil prices here I wouldn't be surprised. 
I'll check it out carefully.
I'll check it out carefully.
RCStocker
Well-known member
I have floor jacks made in the US and sevral made in China. They both work equaly as well. They can both be adjusted very finely and both can be rebult. The principle is the same in both. You might find the pinion gears better in the US jack but I have seen some good imports. I don't think one will blow out before the other. I never get under anyting with out haveing a jack stand there incase the jack fails. I always lower the prject onto the stand. If it slips and hits the stand it can strip the teeth in the jack and come down on you which has happened to other people.
If the US jack is older it might have a slow leak and that is why the person wants to trade it. Check it out first to see if it holds. It might hold up when releasing or tightening the handle. It is not a no brainer without checking it out first.
If the US jack is older it might have a slow leak and that is why the person wants to trade it. Check it out first to see if it holds. It might hold up when releasing or tightening the handle. It is not a no brainer without checking it out first.
One Thing to Remember about that Series... If the Casters are Shot (bearing wise) they are Expensive to Replace... They can be Rebuilt but it takes a steady hand to Remove the Stake and leave enough material to Re-stake when done.
The Valve Action + the Amount of Fluid/Lift per Pump + Seals Used on that Design will make you want to toss your Mac in the Local Lake. <--- I dont recommend this, Because as i stated earlier its Necessity to own multiple jacks most of the time. There are Lots of things that go into making a Quality Jack, its the Little things that people who Use them daily realize, The Angled/Low Pump Piston, Large Saddle, Release Union versus "Gears that tend to get bent/Over Tightened.. Cone Release versus Ball that allows for Smoother operation.
The Valve Action + the Amount of Fluid/Lift per Pump + Seals Used on that Design will make you want to toss your Mac in the Local Lake. <--- I dont recommend this, Because as i stated earlier its Necessity to own multiple jacks most of the time. There are Lots of things that go into making a Quality Jack, its the Little things that people who Use them daily realize, The Angled/Low Pump Piston, Large Saddle, Release Union versus "Gears that tend to get bent/Over Tightened.. Cone Release versus Ball that allows for Smoother operation.
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OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Got home and took some pictures:
Size difference? LOL. Why is that? Not to mention the lower specced Walker/Lincoln weighed quite a bit more.
I quite like the one piece handle, much less slop than a two piece, but I understand the benefits of the latter as it can be taken down and stored much easily compared to a long hollow tube. Only thing I didn't like is how there is no return spring for the handle, so once you let go of the handle it drops quite quickly.
Indeed it is a Walker, but with an unknown model number. I will google and find out.
Sadly only 1.5 Tons, even less than I had assumed, but that frame inspires confidence. The steel used is in fact a couple millimeters thicker than the MAC.
I thought this was quite an odd vent cap/filler plug. Not until I took it home and unscrewed it again did I realize the previous owner lost the original cap and tried to substitute it with two washers, a longish bolt and, get this, a lugnut. Luckily the threads don't need to be chased or retapped as they don't look damaged.
The Good
+Heavy!
+Relatively cheap, $50
+Casters are good, the rotate fine all the way around
+All the parts (except for the filler plug) are there, no missing saddle yay!
+No rust on the ram or on the jack
The Bad
-It doesn't actually lift. Guy said he used transmission fluid in it. I opened the filler cap to check the fluid level and saw that the level was low so I added some hydraulic jack oil that I had brought with me. Bled the jack a few times and checked the level after. The fluid that came out was brown in colour and fairly opaque - I suspect the seals are disintegrated. Surprisingly the saddle rose a couple times then didn't want to go back up.
-Wonky seller. He wanted $70 even after I tried to tell him it actually doesn't lift. I demonstrated it didn't work and let him have a go at it. He bled it and it still wouldn't work. I asked if he'd budge on the price and he said $65. I then asked him if he'd do $45 considering I drove out here twice and the fact that you said it needed oil, which in reality meant a full rebuild (seal kit would probably run around $40). He told me there's another buyer who wants to buy it the day after and that he'd pay him $100 to get it working again. Eventually after much hemming and hawing for half an hour I ended up paying $50. Which I guess it somewhat fair, but then again I did feel ripped off because I figured I could've gone even lower if I had more time (which I didn't, nor did I want to argue with him any further because he keeps on insisting it worked last winter, and that oil is oil, doesn't matter what type you put in). Plus he told me just WD40 the seals and they should be good to go, which is obviously the worst thing you can do to o-rings as WD40 cuts all the grease and leaves the o-ring dehydrated, which leads to cracking. I got sick and tired, but didn't want to go home with nothing, so I gave him the money and left. Ugh, I guess I'm too soft
.
Not to mention he said he tried to refill it with fluid sometime last year and fluid just shot out because he forgot to lower the jack. And the fact that he originally said $60 over the phone (I didn't prompt him for this, it came out of the blue. I just told him I'd come and have a look first then offer), then he raised the price on me when I got there, back up to $70 even though he said he'd be willing to let it go for $60. I guess I took pity on him as he was fairly of age, but I suspect he belonged to the group of individuals that are fairly arrogant, and that they knew everything even after being presented with evidence that what they did was wrong.
I guess I was lucky to get out of there with a jack at all. First thing I did when I came home was to fully drain the old fluid (as best as I can without actually disassembling the cylinder) and put in new fluid. That didn't work even after bleeding the system. It probably needs a rebuild, not to mention a proper paintjob as someone had painted over the original finish with a brush. Or perhaps I should just spray it down with degreaser and power wash it in the coin wash?
Anyhow, it is a stout jack, and it looks a lot better than the MAC, plus it has a lower profile as the frame is longer and the rise isn't as steep as the MAC. Too bad, like I said above, there is not handle return spring, nor is it actually working. The jacks are adding up!
Size difference? LOL. Why is that? Not to mention the lower specced Walker/Lincoln weighed quite a bit more.
I quite like the one piece handle, much less slop than a two piece, but I understand the benefits of the latter as it can be taken down and stored much easily compared to a long hollow tube. Only thing I didn't like is how there is no return spring for the handle, so once you let go of the handle it drops quite quickly.
Indeed it is a Walker, but with an unknown model number. I will google and find out.
Sadly only 1.5 Tons, even less than I had assumed, but that frame inspires confidence. The steel used is in fact a couple millimeters thicker than the MAC.
I thought this was quite an odd vent cap/filler plug. Not until I took it home and unscrewed it again did I realize the previous owner lost the original cap and tried to substitute it with two washers, a longish bolt and, get this, a lugnut. Luckily the threads don't need to be chased or retapped as they don't look damaged.
The Good
+Heavy!
+Relatively cheap, $50
+Casters are good, the rotate fine all the way around
+All the parts (except for the filler plug) are there, no missing saddle yay!
+No rust on the ram or on the jack
The Bad
-It doesn't actually lift. Guy said he used transmission fluid in it. I opened the filler cap to check the fluid level and saw that the level was low so I added some hydraulic jack oil that I had brought with me. Bled the jack a few times and checked the level after. The fluid that came out was brown in colour and fairly opaque - I suspect the seals are disintegrated. Surprisingly the saddle rose a couple times then didn't want to go back up.
-Wonky seller. He wanted $70 even after I tried to tell him it actually doesn't lift. I demonstrated it didn't work and let him have a go at it. He bled it and it still wouldn't work. I asked if he'd budge on the price and he said $65. I then asked him if he'd do $45 considering I drove out here twice and the fact that you said it needed oil, which in reality meant a full rebuild (seal kit would probably run around $40). He told me there's another buyer who wants to buy it the day after and that he'd pay him $100 to get it working again. Eventually after much hemming and hawing for half an hour I ended up paying $50. Which I guess it somewhat fair, but then again I did feel ripped off because I figured I could've gone even lower if I had more time (which I didn't, nor did I want to argue with him any further because he keeps on insisting it worked last winter, and that oil is oil, doesn't matter what type you put in). Plus he told me just WD40 the seals and they should be good to go, which is obviously the worst thing you can do to o-rings as WD40 cuts all the grease and leaves the o-ring dehydrated, which leads to cracking. I got sick and tired, but didn't want to go home with nothing, so I gave him the money and left. Ugh, I guess I'm too soft
.Not to mention he said he tried to refill it with fluid sometime last year and fluid just shot out because he forgot to lower the jack. And the fact that he originally said $60 over the phone (I didn't prompt him for this, it came out of the blue. I just told him I'd come and have a look first then offer), then he raised the price on me when I got there, back up to $70 even though he said he'd be willing to let it go for $60. I guess I took pity on him as he was fairly of age, but I suspect he belonged to the group of individuals that are fairly arrogant, and that they knew everything even after being presented with evidence that what they did was wrong.
I guess I was lucky to get out of there with a jack at all. First thing I did when I came home was to fully drain the old fluid (as best as I can without actually disassembling the cylinder) and put in new fluid. That didn't work even after bleeding the system. It probably needs a rebuild, not to mention a proper paintjob as someone had painted over the original finish with a brush. Or perhaps I should just spray it down with degreaser and power wash it in the coin wash?
Anyhow, it is a stout jack, and it looks a lot better than the MAC, plus it has a lower profile as the frame is longer and the rise isn't as steep as the MAC. Too bad, like I said above, there is not handle return spring, nor is it actually working. The jacks are adding up!
Jeeper
Well-known member
I like it. 93633 is the model number. Wash it up, change the oil and see what happens. If it works then great if not let's see where it leaks.
Here is a rebuild thread should help you understand how it works. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80165
The size comparison is always interesting. Makes you wonder if a ton is lighter than it used to be.
Here is a rebuild thread should help you understand how it works. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80165
The size comparison is always interesting. Makes you wonder if a ton is lighter than it used to be.
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
I saw your thread on the Snap-On jack as well, thanks for that! I'm wondering how much beefier is their 2 ton, because AFAIK the 1.5 and 2 ton models look, well, identical!
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Actually I think it's a 93632, the 93633 is the 1.25 ton model, found some more threads, looks like it was a metallic blue with yellow wheels, saddle and handle to begin with?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86589&highlight=walker
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86589&highlight=walker
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Absolutely no idea. I will go ahead and make a four pronged one from a 13/16th" socket, probably hold up better than just a two pronged one. Just wondering how much I should torque the nut to after rebuilding. I wished my vise was actually mounted to a workbench. I think I'll end up driving over the power unit with a car to hold it in place and step on a 24" long breaker bar to torque it to roughly 400ft/lbs.
Jeeper
Well-known member
I was never able to find one so I made my own out of a northerntool 1 1/2" socket. As for torquing down, I made a line on the nut to body as reference and when it came time to retorque, just made sure the lines, lined up.
Also, get your vice secure because you are going to need leverage. A strong half inch impact helps too.
Also, get your vice secure because you are going to need leverage. A strong half inch impact helps too.
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
I'm stoked you got it. And don't feel bad for that price. After using it a hundred times you'll still be happy that 50 bucks will be long forgotten.
Cheers!
Cheers!
ex-x-fire
Well-known member
You did good for the price, that a good jack, get it fixed up & you'll have a jack that you can pass down to your kids.
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Going to drain the fluid today and refill. If that's no good, it's going to be torn down today. Will have to go out and get a socket.
emeraldcoupe
Well-known member
nice deal on the jack. I wouldn't worry about the 1 1/2t rating. I have a hein warner ws 1 1/2t and it lifts my 03 ram wit no problem.
The Only Difference between a 93632 and a Early 93642 Hydraulic Units is:
1. The Early 62's used a Leather Main Seal and Tank Packing versus a Ucup and Quad Ring in the Tank nut.
2. Size/Location of where the Release Oring Seals.
3. Vent Location
4. Block Style Square verus Newer Round which also dictates where the Vent is located.
Again.. Its all about the Era, A 93632 is Capable of more than 1 1/2 tons, Generally you will be hard pressed to find a shop willing to set the overload higher than the stated Capacity, The Majority that i have visited/Talked to have no issue bumping them up 1000lbs in this Case because the Cylinder Size is the Same as the early 42, 2 ton units.
On a Side Note.. Most people have no idea how much there lifting when they Jack there Vehicle up. They figure since there "Big Lifted F150" Weighs 5800lbs they must have at least a 3 ton jack to change a tire. <--- Thats simply not the Case.
1. The Early 62's used a Leather Main Seal and Tank Packing versus a Ucup and Quad Ring in the Tank nut.
2. Size/Location of where the Release Oring Seals.
3. Vent Location
4. Block Style Square verus Newer Round which also dictates where the Vent is located.
Again.. Its all about the Era, A 93632 is Capable of more than 1 1/2 tons, Generally you will be hard pressed to find a shop willing to set the overload higher than the stated Capacity, The Majority that i have visited/Talked to have no issue bumping them up 1000lbs in this Case because the Cylinder Size is the Same as the early 42, 2 ton units.
On a Side Note.. Most people have no idea how much there lifting when they Jack there Vehicle up. They figure since there "Big Lifted F150" Weighs 5800lbs they must have at least a 3 ton jack to change a tire. <--- Thats simply not the Case.
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OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Did some more inspection, couldn't find a large socket at the Crappy Tire or sears near me, will try Princess Auto next.
I tried to manually prime the jack (after flushing out the oil to the best of my extent and refilling with new oil), but it did nothing really. Fluid level was around the same as the inner cylinder, and when I manually extended and released the ram all I heard was gargling. It made no difference whether the bolt/cap was on or not. Is there supposed to be a gasket/o-ring on the vent cap? I presume no, otherwise it won't actually vent, but I'm not certain on this. Also seems like the release valve is leaking fluid. That area seems to be perpetually wet after releasing and tightening the valve.
The rear casters seem to have a lot of slop. Whether this is because the bearings are gone or not, I have no idea. Is this normal? I did find the original paint underneath the jack, a nice pale metallic blue. Matching this at the hardware store will be hard, probably will have to custom mix it. Looking at powdercoating as well, but I think I'd want it Snap-On red instead of the blue. Something to ponder.
The rear cover seems to be held on some kind of rivet (the exact name escapes me ATM), will probably replace them with new rivets. One of the cross members that support the lifting arm in its released position is bent, easy enough to straighten, but I am at a loss as to how this could happen.
Rear cover.
Rear cover looking at the other side.
Perpetually wet release valve plus the current vent cap. There was a lugnut as a spacer, but I took that off. Will probably cut down the bolt.
Caster slop, it's like this for the other side as well. Seems like it needs a long soak in degreaser or a parts washer session.
Looks unmolested. Hopefully my buddy's cordless impact can take it off.
Brendan
I tried to manually prime the jack (after flushing out the oil to the best of my extent and refilling with new oil), but it did nothing really. Fluid level was around the same as the inner cylinder, and when I manually extended and released the ram all I heard was gargling. It made no difference whether the bolt/cap was on or not. Is there supposed to be a gasket/o-ring on the vent cap? I presume no, otherwise it won't actually vent, but I'm not certain on this. Also seems like the release valve is leaking fluid. That area seems to be perpetually wet after releasing and tightening the valve.
The rear casters seem to have a lot of slop. Whether this is because the bearings are gone or not, I have no idea. Is this normal? I did find the original paint underneath the jack, a nice pale metallic blue. Matching this at the hardware store will be hard, probably will have to custom mix it. Looking at powdercoating as well, but I think I'd want it Snap-On red instead of the blue. Something to ponder.
The rear cover seems to be held on some kind of rivet (the exact name escapes me ATM), will probably replace them with new rivets. One of the cross members that support the lifting arm in its released position is bent, easy enough to straighten, but I am at a loss as to how this could happen.
Rear cover.
Rear cover looking at the other side.
Perpetually wet release valve plus the current vent cap. There was a lugnut as a spacer, but I took that off. Will probably cut down the bolt.
Caster slop, it's like this for the other side as well. Seems like it needs a long soak in degreaser or a parts washer session.
Looks unmolested. Hopefully my buddy's cordless impact can take it off.
Brendan
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
Right on. Keep us updated...If I may make a suggestion, go degrease that thing so you are working with a clean slate.
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
I thought about that, but I didn't want degreaser/water/other fluids potentially worming their way in, in case some bleeding and priming was all the jack needed. Clearly that's not the case, will go visit my favourite coin wash tomorrow .
.For Burgerkong
If you have a good vise you could temporarily attach it directly to any concrete floor you have around your house or garage. Just drill the concrete and use concrete anchors to attach the vise, then after using it, you can remove the vise. That way you don't need to have a strong, non-moving, work bench.
The casters look like they are missing the steel balls, that is why the clip holding the caster in place looks to be to far away from its mount. When you put new balls, the clip will be much closer to the caster mount.
An electric impact gun may not do the trick if this is like the ones sold by Harbor Freight which supposedly have like 220 ft lbs as maximun power. You may need a stronger air impact gun. With the impact gun, just put the pump on the floor in a vertical position and hit the nut with it. But first you have to remove the pump piston assembly so the pump will stand vertically.
Below is a parts breakdown for the 93632. See that the earlier versions (or series) of the 93632 had a leather piston cup and the later versions of the 93632 with the square pump body had an urethane u-cup. Since you don't know the series of your jack, you will not know which one you have until you open the pump.
http://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/walker_93632a.pdf
If you have a good vise you could temporarily attach it directly to any concrete floor you have around your house or garage. Just drill the concrete and use concrete anchors to attach the vise, then after using it, you can remove the vise. That way you don't need to have a strong, non-moving, work bench.
The casters look like they are missing the steel balls, that is why the clip holding the caster in place looks to be to far away from its mount. When you put new balls, the clip will be much closer to the caster mount.
An electric impact gun may not do the trick if this is like the ones sold by Harbor Freight which supposedly have like 220 ft lbs as maximun power. You may need a stronger air impact gun. With the impact gun, just put the pump on the floor in a vertical position and hit the nut with it. But first you have to remove the pump piston assembly so the pump will stand vertically.
Below is a parts breakdown for the 93632. See that the earlier versions (or series) of the 93632 had a leather piston cup and the later versions of the 93632 with the square pump body had an urethane u-cup. Since you don't know the series of your jack, you will not know which one you have until you open the pump.
http://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/walker_93632a.pdf
Attachments
Below is a parts breakdown for the 93632. See that the earlier versions (or series) of the 93632 had a leather piston cup and the later versions of the 93632 with the square pump body had an urethane u-cup. Since you don't know the series of your jack, you will not know which one you have until you open the pump.
http://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/walker_93632a.pdf
For Edgar or anyone else interested, A general rule of thumb to determine what type of seals your jack utilizes on the main ram (93632) is as follows. There may be exceptions to this rule if parts have been changed during rebuilds but i believe this to hold true on factory jacks.
Leather Piston cup = a tank nut with the inner compression built into the tank nut with packing behind it.
Poly Ucups utilize quad rings so there is no inner compression nut present. (Ie burgerkongs)
For Hiball
You are correct about the pump version with the u-cup and o-ring. I did not give that picture of the pump a detailed look. After giving it a better look, I do recognize that it is the latter version with the u-cup and the quad o-ring in the nut.
I do know that there is a difference between the earlier versions nut seals and the newer version nut seals and that is one of the the reasons I stated that it was important to know the version of the jack in case the OP wants to buy a rebuild kit. But you are right, just by looking at the nut one knows which version it is.
The parts breakdown I linked in my previous post shows that the earlier pump have the packings in the nut, the threaded collar, and the leather cup and the newer version square body pump have the quad o-ring and the u-cup.
Just wanted to clarify in my earlier post that u-cups were also used in the later versions of the square body pump. In your post (#59, item #1) where you make a comparison between the 93632 and the 93642 it gives the impression , because of your brief description, that you are stating that only leather cups were used in the earlier square type of pump and that u-cups were used in the newer round type of pump. In other words, that the seal design changed when the pump design changed, which, as you well know, is not necessarily the case. For anyone not knowing this, it can create some confusion.
Sorry for any inconvenience I have caused anyone for not giving the pictures a better look.
You are correct about the pump version with the u-cup and o-ring. I did not give that picture of the pump a detailed look. After giving it a better look, I do recognize that it is the latter version with the u-cup and the quad o-ring in the nut.
I do know that there is a difference between the earlier versions nut seals and the newer version nut seals and that is one of the the reasons I stated that it was important to know the version of the jack in case the OP wants to buy a rebuild kit. But you are right, just by looking at the nut one knows which version it is.
The parts breakdown I linked in my previous post shows that the earlier pump have the packings in the nut, the threaded collar, and the leather cup and the newer version square body pump have the quad o-ring and the u-cup.
Just wanted to clarify in my earlier post that u-cups were also used in the later versions of the square body pump. In your post (#59, item #1) where you make a comparison between the 93632 and the 93642 it gives the impression , because of your brief description, that you are stating that only leather cups were used in the earlier square type of pump and that u-cups were used in the newer round type of pump. In other words, that the seal design changed when the pump design changed, which, as you well know, is not necessarily the case. For anyone not knowing this, it can create some confusion.
Sorry for any inconvenience I have caused anyone for not giving the pictures a better look.
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Just wanted to clarify in my earlier post that u-cups were also used in the later versions of the square body pump. In your post (#59, item #1) where you make a comparison between the 93632 and the 93642 it gives the impression , because of your brief description, that you are stating that only leather cups were used in the earlier square type of pump and that u-cups were used in the newer round type of pump. In other words, that the seal design changed when the pump design changed, which, as you well know, is not necessarily the case. For anyone not knowing this, it can create some confusion.
Sorry for any inconvenience I have caused anyone for not giving the pictures a better look.
IC.. I was only referencing the block differences to clarify the "rated" tonnage differences between 32 and 42, as it seems people like to get worked up about that stuff here... Which is why I said:
1. The Early 62's used a Leather Main Seal and Tank Packing versus a Ucup and Quad Ring in the Tank nut.
Lol.. Notice there hasent been any comments since the OP posted pictures of the 2 side by side. I hope the Op keeps the 2 separated, otherwise that Walker is liable to Eat that Mac and them he will be on the search again. I doubt anyone has been inconvenienced, I just was passing that tittle tidbit of info along for anyone possibly wanting to know what type of seals there jack used or is gonna need during a rebuild. The poly seals are much more user friendly in regards to "proper" installation versus there leather counterparts, because if the flare isn't compressed enough, it can be damaged very easily upon installation. It's also very common for me to run into people needing a kit with the ID plate is missing so I have tried to remain well versed in looking for small details to identify specific models/series to try and steer clear of needing to ship "Universal" kits, which translates into cheaper prices. I wish all models and Jacks where as easy as these 9xxxx jacks, some can't be verified without first tearing them down.
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OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Nono, I'm still here haha. I went out to get the socket for the tank nut. And yes I have the two separated, seems like the presence of the Walker made the MAC wet itself and leak.
LOL.
Thanks to you and Edgar for the extremely helpful comments, the knowledge the two f ou posess is way more than enough to write an encyclopedia on jacks!
Brendan
LOL.
Thanks to you and Edgar for the extremely helpful comments, the knowledge the two f ou posess is way more than enough to write an encyclopedia on jacks!
Brendan
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
It's unbelievable how the cheapest imported 36mm socket is $20 plus tax! Couldn't even find a SAE 1.5" impact socket at all, will have to hit up pawnshops.
Buger, I've been traveling and just got home to see your post. You're in good hands with the posters above. They've been helping me. I've recently restored two of these 32 model jacks. The paint I used was Rustoleum light blue hammered finish. If you "mist" it looks very close to the original. Especially if it will be a working jack and not a bench toy. I can check the size of the socket I made my "tool" from, but it's a 3/4" drive and I've sheared the pins trying to remove some nuts. I've been successful flushing the oil out and putting a few ounces of ****** fluid in the bottle and standing it on end for about a week. This allows oil to reach the nut threads. Other penetrants could be used. I use a IR 2135ti (?) that is rated for 700 ft # removing torque and after soaking some will very slowly release. If it is a first rebuild, they are on tight! Disassembly is tough. Rebuild is easy. I've never been able to remove the blind plug for the relief valve drilling behind the side mounting bolt, for instance. Highball's kits are good and his help is invaluable.
FWIW, this jack is available (was available) from many sellers with different colors. One was the YA632 in red.
FWIW, this jack is available (was available) from many sellers with different colors. One was the YA632 in red.
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
That's what I'm doing to my power unit, as I believe the nut doesn't have any seals on it, instead it uses metal on metal contact and massive torque to achieve the seal. I sprayed PB on the nut as well (not sure how useful, but can't hurt). Haven't posted this up yet, but I eyeballed it and the metallic blue I thought was closest is Duplicolor's 'Medium Maui Blue Metallic':
That's what I'm doing to my power unit, as I believe the nut doesn't have any seals on it, instead it uses metal on metal contact and massive torque to achieve the seal. I sprayed PB on the nut as well (not sure how useful, but can't hurt). Haven't posted this up yet, but I eyeballed it and the metallic blue I thought was closest is Duplicolor's 'Medium Maui Blue Metallic':
Definitely No seals between the tank nut/reservoir or reservoir/base, torque is the ticket.. But a little and I repeat a very thin amount of loctite 518 is golden and severely reduced the amount of torque required to seal that reservoir. I've been using for years on a recommendation from a friend who has a shop in Ok and it's good stuff...
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Is the Permatex equivalents just as good?
Jeeper
Well-known member
That's what i used and haven't seen any leaks. Only been a few weeks.
Same Family, Should be fine in regards to sealants.
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Bah, the bolts holding the power unit to the frame are seized, Will PB blast them and wait for a bit. It ***** not having an impact LOL. I think I am going to replace all the retaining rings holding the saddle and lifting arm together with circlips or snap rings, hate removing those.
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Oh, and BTW that long handle makes a KILLER cheater pipe. LOL
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Wow anaerobic stuff is hard to find! I presume RTV won't do as it won't cure properly? What about liquid teflon sealant?
Do yourself a favor and order some online, its not too expensive as you dont need the "big tube". I believe at your stage, You should have time for it to arrive, Most part stores carry it around here.
Neohio
Well-known member
BOSS in hamilton stocks 518. I used to buy it in the caulking tubes many years ago. Should be able to find small packages of it at CTC or WM in their automotive section.
OP
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Nope, first places I tried, they have a gazillion RTVs, but no anaerobic. I will try NAPA and Carquest, if not, amazon it is. I can't believe I am buying sealant on the internet haha. I was going to get a 6ml tube, but now that I think about it it may not be enough.
Hiball/Jeeper, did you guys spread the sealant onto the entire threaded portion, or just painted a ring of sealant?