Removing the rust from old war era bayonet?
- Thread starter 94ONLYSS
- Start date
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
That's the thing, what you are wanting to remove IS the patina. Best to leave it like it is.
I found a German bayonet in a car I bought and the worth is determined by the patina and the, what I want to call it, blueing that is left on it.
I found a German bayonet in a car I bought and the worth is determined by the patina and the, what I want to call it, blueing that is left on it.
What about Evapo-rust? I have had really good results with it in the past. You can find 1 gallons on ebay for less than $15 with free shipping. Research it first though to make sure its a safe avenue you want to take. Can you post a pic of the bayonet?
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html
Last edited:
DragPack69
Well-known member
Evaporust or Molases, believe it or not. Got that from one of the restoration guys.
I think Coke would be a bit to harsh.
John
I think Coke would be a bit to harsh.
John
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Coke had Phosphoric acid which could damage the blueing/parkerizing
Oil and fine steel wool. it the ticket. assuming it is blued. if Parkerized, I'd probably try Evaporust on a test piece before trying it on the real deal.
Oil and fine steel wool. it the ticket. assuming it is blued. if Parkerized, I'd probably try Evaporust on a test piece before trying it on the real deal.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
And Sorry; "Rust" per se, is not patina to me. Just evidence of neglect...
see toward the bottom of your screen where it says "manage attachments" click there and you can upload directly from "my photos" on your computer
5lima30
Well-known member
White vinegar will work as well, I've had good success cleaning up rusty flea market tool finds.
Provincial
Well-known member
This product has been reported to be excellent for removing (abuse or neglect type) rust on blued steel firearms: http://www.frontiermetalcleaner.com/
If you use oil and an abrasive pad use bronze wool, not steel wool. The bronze won't scratch the bluing/parkerizing like steel wool will. The finer the wool the better, 000 instead of 00.
If you use oil and an abrasive pad use bronze wool, not steel wool. The bronze won't scratch the bluing/parkerizing like steel wool will. The finer the wool the better, 000 instead of 00.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Pic Posting 101:
ZRX61
Well-known member
What he said, I've restoring WWII stuff for decades. Use #0000 steel wool... unless it's REALLY rusty & pitted all to hell.
if you have ever watched those shows on TV if you are removing or altering the finish you are removing the patina on that item and you are now trying to restore it. you cant be taking chemicals or steel wool to an old item and keep the current patina on it. not saying this is a bad thing but i like to watch alot of those shows!
ex-x-fire
Well-known member
Is it a german bayonet? Those blades should be chrome. Us bayonets were parkerized, Japanese bayonets were coated too. I'll be interested in the pictures.
rsanter
Well-known member
First have someone look at it for value and then ask about cleaning the thing up.
Generally a little rust you leave it, a lot you clean it up and some people would prefer to allow it to rust again just a little bit to re establish the patina
Bob
Generally a little rust you leave it, a lot you clean it up and some people would prefer to allow it to rust again just a little bit to re establish the patina
Bob
NHBandit
Well-known member
Since bluing is a form of rust I think you need to determine what the original finish was before trying ANY rust removal on it. As has been already posted US issue bayonets were generally Parkerized but other countries used different methods.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Sorry, but you really need to find a better source for restoration/preservation advise than those so- called experts on TV shows. Many of them are so full of it you can smell it through the TV screen...
Walked into one of the local gun shops once and found myself in the midst of one of the owners ripping a guy a new one for cleaning the rust off of a WWI-era rifle. As others have said, I would consult with someone more informed before taking any action.
Badasssapper67
Well-known member
I've had success soaking the steel in diesel. It takes 3-7 months but it breaks up the rust.
Givl Reggin
Banned
There seems to be a couple of different opinions here, and I might as well add mine too... 
I think what your intentions are with it will ultimately determine how the rust should be treated... for example are you going to use it? Or display it? Or store it in a drawer?
Either way you can't go wrong with wiping it down with a thin oil (like 3-in-one) and then just leave it alone.
I think what your intentions are with it will ultimately determine how the rust should be treated... for example are you going to use it? Or display it? Or store it in a drawer?
Either way you can't go wrong with wiping it down with a thin oil (like 3-in-one) and then just leave it alone.
cgv69
Well-known member
+1 - See this thread... http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154540
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
When I was trying to find info on mine, the German bayonets I looked at were not chromed. Maybe some were for the officers, but I don't think for the soldier that they would be chromed given the amount of bayonets made. What I found out was that of all the thousands of the bayonets made, there were families from all over that made the bayonets and the serial number could be traced back to who made them. They were not made in a factory per se, as one would think they were.
ex-x-fire
Well-known member
ganymede
Well-known member
There are no absolutes if no one knows anything about it other than that its a ww2 bayonet. What model, a mine run standard issue, paratrooper or an experimental model?
What country made it and at what point, pre war, early war or late war?
Is any of the original finish left? How bad is the rust ?
What country made it and at what point, pre war, early war or late war?
Is any of the original finish left? How bad is the rust ?
NHBandit
Well-known member
This thread is a waste of time without more details. People keep posting different suggestions for chemical rust removers while completely ignoring the fact that bluing is a form of rust and any original finish could be completely ruined by doing so. And the OP has left the building so what's the point...
ganymede
Well-known member
This thread is a waste of time without more details. People keep posting different suggestions for chemical rust removers while completely ignoring the fact that bluing is a form of rust and any original finish could be completely ruined by doing so. And the OP has left the building so what's the point...
Don't ask me how I know what Naval Jelly does to bluing (I was young and it was my first 'restoration' ).
fatfillup
Well-known member
I like this! Once you take the rust off, you can't put it back on in the same way. That said, I have no idea if WW II bayonet has a lot of value. It would probably have to be something real special to have big value, so if you want to display it and have it looking good, I say go for it.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
There's not a lot of value in them as there were thousands upon thousands made. The one I have is in great shape other than a few little small rust spots. IIRC it is only worth something like $20 or so. I don't have the sheath for it or that would bring the worth up a little bit. All in all, it's just a cool conversation piece.