What size lumber for ramp?

[hockey88fan]

Building a ramp to be able to pull my zero turn mower into second floor of garage, maybe my golf cart too, no cars or garden tractors etc will never see this ramp. The bottom of the garage door is a little over 2' from the ground, the length of the ramp will be 8'. Looking for opinions if I could use 2x6" on 16" centers or should I go with 2x8" for the joists?
Thanks

 

[Steevo]

How wide is the ramp going to be?
I'd use all 2x6 lumber and a 3/4" marine plywood deck on it.
One 2x6 vertically on each side, and one in the center if it's only 4' wide.
A cross-joist every 16" would make it rock-solid.
Hang the shed end on a plate lagged into the wall, and slope off the bottom of the bottom end, and set them on cinderbolcks or piers sunk into the grade.
A few piers across the halfway point with a supporting 4x4 under the ramp stringers would assure no sag.

 

[wedge40]

I have a small ramp for my lawn/garden tractor, I believe it goes up about a foot. Remember the over time the plywood will get very very slick when wet. I've busted my backside more then once going up or down, and have had to get a running start to get the cub into the shed.

Wedge

 

[hockey88fan]

How wide is the ramp going to be?
I'd use all 2x6 lumber and a 3/4" marine plywood deck on it.
One 2x6 vertically on each side, and one in the center if it's only 4' wide.
A cross-joist every 16" would make it rock-solid.
Hang the shed end on a plate lagged into the wall, and slope off the bottom of the bottom end, and set them on cinderbolcks or piers sunk into the grade.
A few piers across the halfway point with a supporting 4x4 under the ramp stringers would assure no sag.

8' wide. Basically 8'x8'.

 

[Cardboard Man]

An alternative would be to build a triangle-shaped retaining wall on each side and fill it in with crushed stone.

 

[wedge40]

An alternative would be to build a triangle-shaped retaining wall on each side and fill it in with crushed stone.

x2

Wedge

 

[hockey88fan]

An alternative would be to build a triangle-shaped retaining wall on each side and fill it in with crushed stone.

I'm actually considering doing that for the first few feet of the ramp. I'm afraid to have the crushed stone resting against the building, for various reasons. Think of it as a bridge from the dirt ramp to the building.

 

[premierplayer]

2 x 6 @ 16" o.c. w/mid support, should be good

 

[Sureshot]

What about an expanded metal ramp hinged on the building that folds up out of the way.

 

[p_mori7]

2x6 will be fine. 8' is a pretty long span...how heavy is that mower ? The decking thickness must also be taken into account...you don't want that mower breaking through the decking.

I would use all pressure treated lumber. The 2x6 joists will need to be cut on an angle where they transition to the ground...you don't want those cut ends directly in contact with earth or gravel...you should re-treat the exposed cuts. I would also screw them into a sacrificial 2x6PT laying flat (or a couple of 2x4PT). For decking, I would also use 2x4PT or 2x6PT, leaving a gap between each for drainage. For added grip, you can apply stick-on traction tape.

 

[volaredon]

Id make it longer than 8'

 

[KEH]

Re length, you can make a scrap lumber model, if that'st the right word, showing the ground clearance and wheelbase of the mower to show how long you need the ramp to be.

KEH

 

[Nowater]

Read the mowers owner's manual to find the max slope one can operate the mower with. Don't make it any steeper than that. I would sister the 2 x 6's together that span directly under the mower wheelbase width. Consider putting the far end (away from the garage) support about 2/3 the length of the ramp, so if the ramp is 8' long, for example, put the support at about 5' from the door. The last few feet or ramp will balance-sag to meet the ground and you have reduced the load on the ramp a lot.

 

[rockchucker]

Rule of thumb that I was taught...

Span 4 ft... 2x4
Span 6 ft... 2x6
Span 8 ft... 2x8


And so forth.

I would Ledger onto the Building with a PT 2x8. Install Joist Hangers and run everything 16" OC. Rest the Tails on a PT 2x8 or Concrete like you have your Stringers for your Steps resting on. Sheet with 3/4" PT Ply or PT 2x. Primer and Paint throwing 60-80 Grit Sand on the paint before it dries for grip if you use the Plywood. IF you use the 2x I would use 2x6 and you should be fine without painting or coating it. You can always run Galvy Steel Grating or Expanded Steel where the Wheels are for a guide and grip. Use ONLY Tico Nails for the Joist Hangers and ONLY Coated Deck Screws for the rest. I use Deckmate Screws on all Exterior projects.

Million ways to skin a cat but when you overbuild it only really costs pennies more in the long run.

Just my 2¢

 

[BigUgly9]

Read the mowers owner's manual to find the max slope one can operate the mower with. Don't make it any steeper than that. I would sister the 2 x 6's together that span directly under the mower wheelbase width. Consider putting the far end (away from the garage) support about 2/3 the length of the ramp, so if the ramp is 8' long, for example, put the support at about 5' from the door. The last few feet or ramp will balance-sag to meet the ground and you have reduced the load on the ramp a lot.

Getting expensive and complicated! Buy a couple aluminum ramps used to load pickups.
If you don't like them I will give you a couple hundred bucks for them.

 

[egnorant]

Make sure that the ramp is supported under the path the tires travel. If you space the supports so that the weight rolls between supports it can cause flex and loosen over time.

Bruce

 

[pattenp]

What ever you do make sure the angle isn't to steep so that when the mower gets to the top that the mower deck doesn't drag on the door sill. Been there done that.

 

[rslaback]

I'm not sure I would put in a permanent ramp in that location at all. Anything made from wood is going to be so heavy it will be defacto permanent. It has a pretty clean design to it as is. I would probably go with a set of curved truck ramps. Pin the tops if you are worried about slide. As a bonus you can use them for other stuff as well.

 

[Steevo]

I'm not sure I would put in a permanent ramp in that location at all. Anything made from wood is going to be so heavy it will be defacto permanent. It has a pretty clean design to it as is. I would probably go with a set of curved truck ramps. Pin the tops if you are worried about slide. As a bonus you can use them for other stuff as well.

This is an even better idea, unless you plan to also roll a wheelbarrow, hand truck, garden wagon, etc, up and down.

 

[Brad54]

If it were me, I'd over-build it. You will NEVER have a concern if it's over-built.

2x8 joists, and I'd sheet them with 1-inch boards going side-to-side instead of plywood. That will let water run through in the rain, as someone else mentioned.
Then I'd put 2x6 "treads" or runners on top of it going into the door, like an old covered bridge floor, to drive the tires on.

And then, just to make it easier to walk in and out, I'd put little 1/2-inch square strips side-to-side between the tire treads to ease walking up and down the ramp.

-Brd

 

[Old Moparz]

At first I was thinking of the retaining walls & with gravel fill, too, but I also like the idea of having the loading dock type set up. It would be very convenient to be able to back a pick up truck to the garage & have the bed floor level with the garage floor. There are ways to separate the building from the moisture, but I think I like the idea of a portable ramp others have suggested for simplicity reasons.

 

[Herb]

An alternative would be to build a triangle-shaped retaining wall on each side and fill it in with crushed stone.

Yes, this, but with a front "wall" 6" away from the building, and a removable steel plate between the ramp and the building.

 

[Falcon67]

I didn't care to build a ramp for my storage building - this was easier
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/sto...ched-aluminum-loading-ramps-20-in-w-x-90-in-l

 

[CNGsaves]

That whole area looks pretty wasteful since the door openings are elevated.

A cool solution would be some sort of deck that would make better use of both entrances. Steel or 2'x8' substructure would hold up mower and then be topped with Trex deck boards. The path/ramp to larger door could be a ramp . . . . OR . . better yet a hinged section that mower would drive up on, then be lifted up to be nearly level with door opening (ie like a tilt trailer). Lift could be a jack, or suspension airbag, etc depending on your McGyver ideas !!

I'd be thinking "out-of-box" ideas for this space, as it could be cool BBQ spot, etc. and provide a less abrupt entrance to manual door compared to big jump it has now.

 

[Sureshot]

This is what I would look at. Lightweight and out of the way when not in use.
Could be lowered to a tailgate or trailer. Many of these suggestions are way overkill unless you have a huge mower.

 

[dreesemonkey]

I like CNGsaves idea of it being a deck. It could be 8-10' deep with the ramp going down the side of the building. The landing at the top should be more than wide enough to manuever a zero turn and/or golf cart into the garage. One of the benefits is that you could also back up with a truck and still use it as a loading ramp.

Quick mockup:

 

[Always_Thinkin]

Getting expensive and complicated! Buy a couple aluminum ramps used to load pickups.
If you don't like them I will give you a couple hundred bucks for them.

X2. Aluminum ramps won't rot like wood and will have surface for the tires to grip when it's wet. Also you could remove or hinge up when you close the door.

 

[hockey88fan]

What a wide range of great ideas! Thanks!

 

[Todd.Brock]

A steel erector company should be able to get you something to hold up. U may want to use piers 6 feet down. So not to Worry about deflection, use 1" thick plate with diamonds milled into it. That should, and you should consult an architect and engineer, hold. But if you have a wheel barrow, then back to the drawing board.

 

[spotco2]

I built one for a neighbor about that high about 15 years ago just because their storage building was that high off the ground (built on funky grade).

I used 2x8's 16 OC with 5/4 decking boards spaced about a paint paddle apart with sand on top of them. Slick as snot due to pine tree's and shade. 5/4 decking boards had a lot of flex to them also. I pulled them off and replaced with 2x6's with expanded metal for traction. No sag, no slip with mowers, atv's, golf carts, motorcycles, etc.

8' is kinda short for a 24" rise though. I think I built theirs 12' to keep the mower from dragging.

 

[zcar751]

+1 "8' is kinda short for a 24" rise though. I think I built theirs 12' to keep the mower from dragging." Spotco2

I put a 5 foot ramp in for my mower on a 12 inch rise and the deck drags just a hair. I would also recommend using 2x10s @ 12" OC.

If you plan on running a golf cart up and down it you should double up the 2x8s under the tire path. Especially if it is an electric cart. Man those things are heavy.

 

[PECVD2]

That whole area looks pretty wasteful since the door openings are elevated.

A cool solution would be some sort of deck that would make better use of both entrances. Steel or 2'x8' substructure would hold up mower and then be topped with Trex deck boards. The path/ramp to larger door could be a ramp . . . . OR . . better yet a hinged section that mower would drive up on, then be lifted up to be nearly level with door opening (ie like a tilt trailer). Lift could be a jack, or suspension airbag, etc depending on your McGyver ideas !!

I'd be thinking "out-of-box" ideas for this space, as it could be cool BBQ spot, etc. and provide a less abrupt entrance to manual door compared to big jump it has now.

^^^^^^^^^^^^BINGO WE HAVE A WINNER^^^^^^^^^

Elevated doors without a proper landing are an accident waiting to happen IMO. Take CNG's advise and do it up correctly and with some added purpose.

 

[passinthru]

I have the same situation as you, and I plan on useing used railroad ties. Alot cheeper than building one out of lumber,and you can drive anything up it you want.

 

[BD1]

What about a on grade lift ?? Look for a scissor or platform lift.
http://www.gesusa.com/Dannmar-Cadet-6000-Car-Lift-p/1375651.htm

Would be really cool to have for car work too,